The Scott CR1 SL Thread

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Comments

  • damitamit
    damitamit Posts: 277
    Thanks guys! Here's the parts list:

    cr1partslist.jpg

    Doesn't quite match the actual total weight, but I didn't weigh the cables and shifters so the extra weight may be coming from those.
  • galatzo
    galatzo Posts: 1,295
    I have a set of Campagnolo cups which I bought in error for a previous build a few years ago.
    They state
    Campagnolo 2011 Ultra Torque OS-Fit 86,5x41

    Will they enable my Chorus 11 speed chainset to fit the CR1-SL frame ?

    Did a cash deal for one on Ebay the other day so not paid too much more for it than you guys.
    Hopefully taking to LBS today to be built up then I can just stare at until my acromiumclavicle separation heals which at the current rate is going to be months. Did it last Tuesday and it's just got worse and worse since Thursday morning, up till then I thought I'd only be off the bike for a week or 10 days, wish I'd broke my collar bone now instead.

    Anyway build will be Chorus 11 speed, Planet-X brakes Fizik Kurve Bull saddle, Deda Presa bars, Deda Service Course stem, Mavic Ksyrium SR wheels and a 29 on the back to help me on the Otztal Radmarathon at the end of August should I not lose too much training time with the injury.
    25th August 2013 12hrs 37mins 52.3 seconds 238km 5500mtrs FYRM Never again.
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    damitamit wrote:
    Thanks guys! Here's the parts list:

    cr1partslist.jpg

    Doesn't quite match the actual total weight, but I didn't weigh the cables and shifters so the extra weight may be coming from those.

    Thanks! I must admit I was somewhat disappointed when I picked up the bike to find that the weight had not gone down - in fact had increased slightly :shock:.

    Obviously getting better wheels is the best first step but obviously there's more I need to look at.
  • Koncordski wrote:
    My query for all those with the ritchey headset is, do you have a small gap between the dust cap and the top bearing cup or is it completely flush? Anyone else notice this?

    How small? If it's a mm or two, then that sounds right, if it's more like 5, are you sure you have the split-ring thingy the right way up?

    I erm, took a while to work that one out yesterday.
  • jonny_trousers
    jonny_trousers Posts: 3,588
    Galatzo wrote:
    I have a set of Campagnolo cups which I bought in error for a previous build a few years ago.
    They state
    Campagnolo 2011 Ultra Torque OS-Fit 86,5x41

    Will they enable my Chorus 11 speed chainset to fit the CR1-SL frame ?

    Yep!
  • keyser__soze
    keyser__soze Posts: 2,067
    Anyone in SW London or the Wharf area built one up and has a headset/pressfit BB tool I could borrow in exchange for a beer or two? Need to replace the bb on my Addict...
    "Mummy Mummy, when will I grow up?"
    "Don't be silly son, you're a bloke, you'll never grow up"
  • galatzo
    galatzo Posts: 1,295
    Galatzo wrote:
    I have a set of Campagnolo cups which I bought in error for a previous build a few years ago.
    They state
    Campagnolo 2011 Ultra Torque OS-Fit 86,5x41

    Will they enable my Chorus 11 speed chainset to fit the CR1-SL frame ?

    Yep!

    Result, thanks.

    As soon as new cassette and chain arrive then it's off to the LBS we go.
    25th August 2013 12hrs 37mins 52.3 seconds 238km 5500mtrs FYRM Never again.
  • pollys_bott
    pollys_bott Posts: 1,012
    Koncordski wrote:
    WRT setting the crown race, I assume that it is supposed to slide quite freely down the steerer tube until about 7mm from the bottom and then be tapped down once it gets 'stuck' (for want of a better word)?


    That's correct, it should be about .5 mm wider at the base. The perfect tool would be a crown race setter but the next best option is some 40mm plastic waste pipe from DIY stores. Has the perfect size for sitting on the crown race to tamp down.

    My query for all those with the ritchey headset is, do you have a small gap between the dust cap and the top bearing cup or is it completely flush? Anyone else notice this?

    Thanks for that: off to the local hardware shop after lunch.

    Ref the Ritchey headset, I've not fitted it yet but I did notice that the rubber seal thing did seem to protrude from the bottom of the dust cap; I'm guessing that this is so when everything is squeezed up tightly it forms a really good seal? :?
  • Koncordski
    Koncordski Posts: 1,009
    Koncordski wrote:
    My query for all those with the ritchey headset is, do you have a small gap between the dust cap and the top bearing cup or is it completely flush? Anyone else notice this?

    How small? If it's a mm or two, then that sounds right, if it's more like 5, are you sure you have the split-ring thingy the right way up?

    I erm, took a while to work that one out yesterday.

    Yeah, talking 1mm maybe. Just didn't know if it was supposed to be totally flush. Feels pretty solid now it's all torqued up. It's been an education building this, really enjoyed it. Thanks to meanredspider for answering all my stupid questions via pm and everyone else on here for the various bits of information, we should open an LBS.

    #1 Brompton S2L Raw Lacquer, Leather Mudflaps
    #2 Boeris Italia race steel
    #3 Scott CR1 SL
    #4 Trek 1.1 commuter
    #5 Peugeot Grand Tourer (Tandem)
  • SimonInd
    SimonInd Posts: 17
    Anyone in SW London or the Wharf area built one up and has a headset/pressfit BB tool I could borrow in exchange for a beer or two? Need to replace the bb on my Addict...

    I've got some M20 threaded rod with a selection of nuts and washers which I used to install the headset in my CR-1. Too heavy to bring to the Wharf but if you can get over to Wimbledon your more than welcome to give it a whirl. My only worry would be that the rod is too wide but googling suggests a Hollowtech II spindle is 24mm so it should be ok.
  • damitamit
    damitamit Posts: 277
    I used one of these on both the headset and BB.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEADSET-PRESS ... 1089647387
  • pollys_bott
    pollys_bott Posts: 1,012
    What wheels are you all using with this frame? I'm still using the stock Bontrager 'approved' wheels that came with the bike and I feel like they are holding it back.

    What's the rubber of choice? Some good offers around on Michelin Pro 4s but I'm currently thinking of spending a bit more and getting a pair of Open Corsa CX - at £32 each from Wibble there's nothing out there in clincher world that's going to give me more bang for my buck is there?
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    What wheels are you all using with this frame? I'm still using the stock Bontrager 'approved' wheels that came with the bike and I feel like they are holding it back.

    What's the rubber of choice? Some good offers around on Michelin Pro 4s but I'm currently thinking of spending a bit more and getting a pair of Open Corsa CX - at £32 each from Wibble there's nothing out there in clincher world that's going to give me more bang for my buck is there?

    I'm on Continental GP4000S, very well regarded by accounts.
  • damitamit
    damitamit Posts: 277
    What wheels are you all using with this frame? I'm still using the stock Bontrager 'approved' wheels that came with the bike and I feel like they are holding it back.

    What's the rubber of choice? Some good offers around on Michelin Pro 4s but I'm currently thinking of spending a bit more and getting a pair of Open Corsa CX - at £32 each from Wibble there's nothing out there in clincher world that's going to give me more bang for my buck is there?

    I'm on Continental GP4000S, very well regarded by accounts.

    Plus they're only £24 plus shipping from www.bike-discount.de
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    What wheels are you all using with this frame? I'm still using the stock Bontrager 'approved' wheels that came with the bike and I feel like they are holding it back.

    What's the rubber of choice? Some good offers around on Michelin Pro 4s but I'm currently thinking of spending a bit more and getting a pair of Open Corsa CX - at £32 each from Wibble there's nothing out there in clincher world that's going to give me more bang for my buck is there?

    Try Planet X or Ribble - you should be able to get them for under £30. And yes, they will be way nicer than more conventional tyres but a good deal less long lasting too. Ideally dry days only which is when you'll appreciate the niceness of them the most.

    Also look at Veloflex Corsas (I can't see the tan wall Master looking quite right on the Scott!).
    damitamit wrote:
    I'm on Continental GP4000S, very well regarded by accounts.

    Plus they're only £24 plus shipping from http://www.bike-discount.de

    They won't be as nice as the Vittorias though. Everyone really needs to try open tubulars at least once (and then I suspect the real thing!)
    Faster than a tent.......
  • Adam_G
    Adam_G Posts: 35
    Ultremo ZX on one set of wheels and Pro4 Service Course on the other... Both are as good as tyres ever need to be! Perfect.
  • keyser__soze
    keyser__soze Posts: 2,067
    damitamit wrote:
    I used one of these on both the headset and BB.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEADSET-PRESS ... 1089647387

    Thanks, ordered one :)SimonInd, thanks for the offer.
    "Mummy Mummy, when will I grow up?"
    "Don't be silly son, you're a bloke, you'll never grow up"
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    Got my headset cups fitted today after I bought a Cyclus headset press. Quite a hefty piece of metal that thing is. The cups on the other hand didn't want to go in straight no matter how much I tried so they ended up having to go in a little wonky and straightened up in the end.

    Need to get some pipe to seat the crown race now.

    Also found that the Easton EC70 zero seatpost is a perfect match for the frame colour wise. Very happy so far.
  • luv2ride
    luv2ride Posts: 2,367
    patrickf wrote:
    Got my headset cups fitted today after I bought a Cyclus headset press. Quite a hefty piece of metal that thing is. The cups on the other hand didn't want to go in straight no matter how much I tried so they ended up having to go in a little wonky and straightened up in the end.

    Do you need to grease the cups before inserting? My Force groupset is on the way to me, so tempted to get building it up, but may still chicken out and pass it to the LBS...
    Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    I did grease the cups. They went in easy enough just not straight to start with. I simply couldn't get the press to sit perfectly in the cups.
  • luv2ride
    luv2ride Posts: 2,367
    I might need to get some grease. I see one of the many frame tags talks about only using 'special' grease, and I've only got bog standard Weldite TFT2 with Teflon...
    Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    Luv2ride wrote:
    I might need to get some grease. I see one of the many frame tags talks about only using 'special' grease, and I've only got bog standard Weldite TFT2 with Teflon...
    Normal grease goes on headset/BB cups when fitting.

    Carbon assembly paste goes on seat post and stem clamps. My frame came with a small sachet of carbon assembly paste for this.

    Does anyone use carbon assembly paste on the expander plug or is that OTT?
  • luv2ride
    luv2ride Posts: 2,367
    I'll have a look for the assembly paste (although think I have a tube knocking around somewhere). The Force groupset has arrived, as have some FSA K-wing bars I got off ebay at be weekend. Therefore, everything needed for the build is now here, except a) time b) patience and c ) bike build expertise :oops:

    Did build up a winter bike (Tifosi CK7) last year and that went well, but headset was already fitted and was less concerned about damaging the 2nd hand frame.

    Best news is that the Force groupset was sold 'without cables' but had a full setof SRAM Gore pro cables in the brifter box when i opened it :shock: Oh and the colour of the groupset seems to go really well with the SL frame colours 8) 8)
    Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • Headhuunter
    Headhuunter Posts: 6,494
    Luv2ride wrote:
    I'll have a look for the assembly paste (although think I have a tube knocking around somewhere). The Force groupset has arrived, as have some FSA K-wing bars I got off ebay at be weekend. Therefore, everything needed for the build is now here, except a) time b) patience and c ) bike build expertise :oops:

    Did build up a winter bike (Tifosi CK7) last year and that went well, but headset was already fitted and was less concerned about damaging the 2nd hand frame.

    Best news is that the Force groupset was sold 'without cables' but had a full setof SRAM Gore pro cables in the brifter box when i opened it :shock: Oh and the colour of the groupset seems to go really well with the SL frame colours 8) 8)
    Forgive the stupid question but if you buy a SRAM group do you have to change the bottom bracket that Westbrook supplied?
    Do not write below this line. Office use only.
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,866
    patrickf wrote:
    I did grease the cups. They went in easy enough just not straight to start with. I simply couldn't get the press to sit perfectly in the cups.
    Further back in this thread somebody said that with the Cyclus press you had to use the flat ends of the press as the cups wouldn't sit in the stepped sections properly.
    With the cheaper headset press like the one on Ebay or a home made one from a length of threaded rod it is best not to just use a flat washer, better to have a long tube or something to hold the washer level to try and keep the cups square.
  • keyser__soze
    keyser__soze Posts: 2,067
    Forgive the stupid question but if you buy a SRAM group do you have to change the bottom bracket that Westbrook supplied?

    Yes, you will.
    "Mummy Mummy, when will I grow up?"
    "Don't be silly son, you're a bloke, you'll never grow up"
  • Headhuunter
    Headhuunter Posts: 6,494
    Forgive the stupid question but if you buy a SRAM group do you have to change the bottom bracket that Westbrook supplied?

    Yes, you will.

    OK, I'm going Shimano, can't be rsed with changing that BB.... Haven't even started on mine yet!
    Do not write below this line. Office use only.
  • luv2ride
    luv2ride Posts: 2,367
    Forgive the stupid question but if you buy a SRAM group do you have to change the bottom bracket that Westbrook supplied?

    Yes, you will.

    OK, I'm going Shimano, can't be rsed with changing that BB.... Haven't even started on mine yet!

    Westbrook changed mine to a SRAM BB86 press fit before shipping. Didn't charge to change it and the Shimano one was put back in the box. BB cost 25 quid I think....allows use of GXP cranks. Might fit mine tomorrow so hope they go on ok!
    Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • jonny_trousers
    jonny_trousers Posts: 3,588
    Forgive the stupid question but if you buy a SRAM group do you have to change the bottom bracket that Westbrook supplied?

    Yes, you will.

    OK, I'm going Shimano, can't be rsed with changing that BB.... Haven't even started on mine yet!

    An LBS could do it in minutes. Anyway, go Campag. I even have a spare set of BB cups you can have for a tenner to my fundraising account.
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    Veronese68 wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    I did grease the cups. They went in easy enough just not straight to start with. I simply couldn't get the press to sit perfectly in the cups.
    Further back in this thread somebody said that with the Cyclus press you had to use the flat ends of the press as the cups wouldn't sit in the stepped sections properly.
    With the cheaper headset press like the one on Ebay or a home made one from a length of threaded rod it is best not to just use a flat washer, better to have a long tube or something to hold the washer level to try and keep the cups square.
    Yeah I remembered that but I didn't think it sat that much better either. Should have tried it anyway.

    They're in now and as long as the head tube doesn't collapse the first time I ride it I'm happy :)