The Scott CR1 SL Thread

itboffin

If Rolf shed 3.5kg there would be nothing left of him

markhewitt1978

Jonny_Trousers wrote:

frazered wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

frazered wrote:

reasonable acceleration but was not unbelievably shockingly good.

That might not be entirely down to the frame!

agree, however looking at some of the previous comments that suggest it is like riding a rocket bike

I suppose it depends what you're used to. I shed about 3.5kgs moving over to this bike (if only the bike's rider
could shed a similar amount).

I didn't shed any weight moving to the pro frame. That said it's still significantly faster and smoother than my aluminium Trek. It makes a big difference on slight climbs - really steep ones are about the same. But surprisingly the biggest difference is on the decents. I wouldn't take my Trek above about 30mph as it just felt unstable and likely to crash at any moment - I thought that's how road bikes are. But the Scott I was decending today at 35-40mph and it felt completely planted.

markhewitt1978

The cable slap issues might be why the LBS crossed over the shifter inners on the downtube.

jonny_trousers

markhewitt1978 wrote:

The cable slap issues might be why the LBS crossed over the shifter inners on the downtube.

Cheers!

pete54

markhewitt1978 wrote:

The cable slap issues might be why the LBS crossed over the shifter inners on the downtube.

I have bought a pack of these in black:

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/sra ... s-ec045643

Pretty expensive for four pieces of rubber.

pete54

Pollys Bott wrote:

Same as me Pete - no, you're not still missing a bit, no 7 is the replacement crown race (no 14 in the first pic).

Is the crown race visible when it's all assembled? The new one is silver and the missing one is black.

daniel_b

Has anyone here put any kind of frame protectors on to protect the frame, around the headset area for example, or for the rear stay to protect from the chain?

If so, what did you use, and does it stick well enough to the matt finish?

jonny_trousers

pete54 wrote:

markhewitt1978 wrote:

The cable slap issues might be why the LBS crossed over the shifter inners on the downtube.

I have bought a pack of these in black:

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/sra ... s-ec045643

Pretty expensive for four pieces of rubber.

Do they go over bare cable only, though, Pete? Aren't they more to go around cable outers to stop them rubbing against paint?

_jon_

pete54 wrote:

Pollys Bott wrote:

Same as me Pete - no, you're not still missing a bit, no 7 is the replacement crown race (no 14 in the first pic).

Is the crown race visible when it's all assembled? The new one is silver and the missing one is black.

You won't be able to see the crown race but you will be able to see the very top of the headset bearing cups. Only the thin ledge at the top though (a couple millimetres).

Daniel B wrote:

Has anyone here put any kind of frame protectors on to protect the frame, around the headset area for example, or for the rear stay to protect from the chain?

If so, what did you use, and does it stick well enough to the matt finish?

I used the frame protection pads that came with the frame. Seem to stick Ok.

pete54

Jonny_Trousers wrote:

Do they go over bare cable only, though, Pete? Aren't they more to go around cable outers to stop them rubbing against paint?

Yes, sorry, I was confused about what you meant by cable slap. Don't cable sets come with rubber donuts to stop the bare cable hitting the top tube? Thought they were a standard fitment? All my bikes have them.

indyp

Daniel B wrote:

Has anyone here put any kind of frame protectors on to protect the frame, around the headset area for example, or for the rear stay to protect from the chain?

If so, what did you use, and does it stick well enough to the matt finish?

Mine came with a clear chain protector already in place on the frame? I also used the frame protectors that came in the pack for all places cable come into contact with the frame. It's a job definately worth doing.

daniel_b

indyP wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Has anyone here put any kind of frame protectors on to protect the frame, around the headset area for example, or for the rear stay to protect from the chain?

If so, what did you use, and does it stick well enough to the matt finish?

Mine came with a clear chain protector already in place on the frame? I also used the frame protectors that came in the pack for all places cable come into contact with the frame. It's a job definitely worth doing.

Thanks for the answers - I have yet to unpack everything properly, but now I look I do indeed see the chainstay protector in place :oops:
I have just gone and found the frame protectors also....... *whistles*

I am thinking of putting some colour into it by purchasing a Jagwire gear and brake cable set - Tredz have them for just over £22, so have stuck in a flubit demand to see what they come back with.

UndercoverElephant

Daniel B wrote:

indyP wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Has anyone here put any kind of frame protectors on to protect the frame, around the headset area for example, or for the rear stay to protect from the chain?

If so, what did you use, and does it stick well enough to the matt finish?

Mine came with a clear chain protector already in place on the frame? I also used the frame protectors that came in the pack for all places cable come into contact with the frame. It's a job definitely worth doing.

Thanks for the answers - I have yet to unpack everything properly, but now I look I do indeed see the chainstay protector in place :oops:
I have just gone and found the frame protectors also....... *whistles*

I am thinking of putting some colour into it by purchasing a Jagwire gear and brake cable set - Tredz have them for just over £22, so have stuck in a flubit demand to see what they come back with.

I'm going with the tarty red Jagwire Road Pro cables, to go with the splash or red on the Pro frame. I'll let you know how I get on.

itboffin

I've finished mine and the build was a proper PITA thanks to Shimano's new 105 5700 groupset, how bloody fiddly are the shifters to route the gear cables :evil:

anyway i've gone for a 3T cockpit and borrowed the FSA seatpost from my ribble for now with my RS10 chunking wheelset, the whole bike including pedals weighs in at 17.5lbs :shock:

http://db.tt/PysJ2Z9o

http://db.tt/cYk9hmTS

daniel_b

Pics not coming up yet ITB, looking forward to seing them though!

Wheels - I have changed my mind and am now considering Shimano RS80's if they come down sub £300: http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/wheels/road-wheels/factory-road-wheels/shimano-rs80-carbon-laminate-wheels-pair.html

But am also seriously considering a slightly customised pair of Soul S2.0's for around £380: http://2013.bikesoul.com/s2/
Review here: http://road.cc/content/review/48341-soul-s20-wheelset

Anyone have opinions on these wheels they would care to share?

_jon_

itboffin wrote:

I've finished mine and the build was a proper PITA thanks to Shimano's new 105 5700 groupset, how bloody fiddly are the shifters to route the gear cables :evil:

Glad to hear it wasn't just me; spent ages staring into the shifter to try and find the hole for the cable. Ended up having to refer to a YouTube video.

itboffin

I'm pretty good at all things fettling but I dont understand why Shimano have made these so fiddly, surely they could have just taken a look at some Campag or SRAM shifters and copied the design a bit?

also for those of you that dont own Campag i can tell you now indexing on Campag takes about 1-2 mins at the most were as this new Shimano took forever to get the rear right and even now i can tell is going to be a pain.

this of course has nothing to do with the Scott frame.

asprilla

This is why I moved to SRAM. Indexing Shimano requires a cerimonial costume, a special dance and drinking the blood of a living sacrifice.

markhewitt1978

£345 for those RS80s looks a great deal to me. Especially compared to the Dura Ace which is £630 and I believe the RS80 isn't massively different. Means I'm stuck with 10 speed which means no Ultegra 6800.

itboffin

As much as i really can't be arsed too it looks like i'm about to take the Scott on its maiden voyage, wet & windy here atm to :x

Headhuunter

markhewitt1978 wrote:

£345 for those RS80s looks a great deal to me. Especially compared to the Dura Ace which is £630 and I believe the RS80 isn't massively different. Means I'm stuck with 10 speed which means no Ultegra 6800.

That's pretty expensive, I think Ribble was selling RS80s for something 260 quid or something not that long ago... Certainly it was possible to get them for less that 300 quid from most websites. The price seems to have gone up...

itboffin

Not the metric century I had planned in fact just half of one, the wind won this time, i just couldnt bee arsed to fight it on my weekend as well as all week, typically its blowing from the west today when all week i battle it from the east and north.

anyway this is my take on the CR1 ...

i wouldnt say it was harsh but it is stiff and very precise, climbs well and it accelerates very quickly and changes direction sharply as i found out when a gap in the hedges caught me by surprise almost blowing me off bike.

I picked a route that has some crappy road surfaces, which is practically everywhere around here, the bike didn't glide over bumps like my Cervelo but then again i'm running thick Conti Grand Prix 23c which do feel a bit dead.

All in all a good investment and a fun (apart from the shimano gears) bike to ride, would benefit from some lighter wheels and campag gears.

UndercoverElephant

Right, another build photo:



I think this is the first Pro on the thread? Build was "everything that was on the BeOne", Bracciano wheels, Mircoshift groupset, Deda Newton bars, FSA carbon chain set.

The Jagwire cabling worked really well, nice touches all round including anti-rub donuts. Just a shame that as it's really a birthday pressie, I'm not allowed to ride it for a month or so.

markhewitt1978

Not the first I'm afraid. See page 27. Although I've changed the stem since then.

UndercoverElephant

markhewitt1978 wrote:

Not the first I'm afraid. See page 27. Although I've changed the stem since then.

Nice bike, mate!

pollys_bott

WRT setting the crown race, I assume that it is supposed to slide quite freely down the steerer tube until about 7mm from the bottom and then be tapped down once it gets 'stuck' (for want of a better word)?

markhewitt1978

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Nice bike, mate!

Cheers! Buying the Pro frame was one of the best decisions I've made. Not buying the SL frame when I had the chance is one of the worst!

pollys_bott

damitamit wrote:

Finished transferring all the parts from my Isaac Impulse. 6.5kg (14.3lbs)

Gorgeous.

Nice to see one in non-Stealth mode as my wheels & stem have splashes of red on and I was wondering how some colour would look... much as I like the Stealth look I can't afford new wheels and cockpit!

markhewitt1978

Very nice indeed. What parts do you have on there to get it to under the UCI limit?

I haven't weighed by bike but it certainly doesn't feel light, but if the numbers are to be believed your bike would only go from 6.5kg to 6.65kg if using the pro frame.

Koncordski

Pollys Bott wrote:

WRT setting the crown race, I assume that it is supposed to slide quite freely down the steerer tube until about 7mm from the bottom and then be tapped down once it gets 'stuck' (for want of a better word)?

That's correct, it should be about .5 mm wider at the base. The perfect tool would be a crown race setter but the next best option is some 40mm plastic waste pipe from DIY stores. Has the perfect size for sitting on the crown race to tamp down.

My query for all those with the ritchey headset is, do you have a small gap between the dust cap and the top bearing cup or is it completely flush? Anyone else notice this?