The Scott CR1 SL Thread
Comments
-
Daniel B wrote:Finally gotten around to opening my 54, and when showing it alongside my felt I am pretty sure its the right size frame.
Not as blown away by the quality as I thought I might be, frame looks a little uneven in places, I can see a couple of indents of sorts, but not sure I can be bothered enough to return it.
Don't think I would be happy had I spent over 2k on it though.
DanielB: so you have indents on the frame too? Whereabouts on the frame are they? You'd only see mine in the right light but, even if not structurally significant, may well affect resale value. looks like I'm returning my SL fame to be replaced with the Pro instead (with money off) as all the SLs have now gone.Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...0 -
patrickf wrote:Rolf F wrote:I wouldn't worry about the unevenness - I think it is a feature of carbon monocoques in general and the drab matt doesn't help. It will look a whole lot better built up.
Not yet. The frame is meant to be a backup so I'm not aiming to rush anything - I'll be looking to see how people get on with these in rainy weather before making a decision. I did spray my frame with water to get a feel for it though! It will probably look pretty good (certainly better than the matt) though the shinyness makes the blend from raw carbon to black paint around the BB more obvious. I somehow can't see me not having it done at some point though.Faster than a tent.......0 -
Put my headset in last night, not too difficult using a mallet and a length of threaded rod and some large washers. Seatpost and chainset ordered, everything else will be transferred from my current bike so hopefully I'm largely done.
One question, I see the cable hole for the front mech isn't lined in any way, so do I need some sort of thin cable sleeve to prevent it sawing into the frame? I've seen this on other carbon frames.0 -
Luv2ride wrote:so you have indents on the frame too? Whereabouts on the frame are they? You'd only see mine in the right light but, even if not structurally significant, may well affect resale value. looks like I'm returning my SL fame to be replaced with the Pro instead (with money off) as all the SLs have now gone.
There is a small line along an inch or so of the top tube on mine, probably a mould mark. Doesn't bother me as you have to look closely to see it. I suspect these imperfections are there on every carbon frame but would be covered by thicker gloss paint. I guess they used the thinnest paint to keep the weight down. I'd keep the frame if I were you. The Pro has that nasty red stripe on the forks and top tube, which is far more ugly IMHO.
Resale value? You only paid £499, so what's the problem?0 -
On another topic, does anyone know a decent LBS/mechanic for bike builds in Central or North London? Condor is my LBS but they can't build my Scott up for me until the first week of July as they are so busy.0
-
pete54 wrote:On another topic, does anyone know a decent LBS/mechanic for bike builds in Central or North London? Condor is my LBS but they can't build my Scott up for me until the first week of July as they are so busy.
Have you tried the London Bicycle Workshop round the corner on Clerkenwell Road. Good guys in there.Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
Sun - Cervelo R3
Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX0 -
BTW how long do you reckon a LBS would take to build up the frame, as in between getting the frame and my old bike and doing everything transferring across.
As I basically have two scenarios, as in I give them the frame Saturday morning and I get it back Saturday afternoon, which I think would be pushing it? Or I leave it with them for a full week.0 -
It took me an hour to take all the bits off my old frame and transfer them to the Scott. But I wouldn't expect a bike shop to take a full build in on a Saturday - busiest day of the week - and be able to turn it round on the same day.
Notwithstanding how busy they might be, it doesn't allow for any unforeseen problems.0 -
Adam_G wrote:It took me an hour to take all the bits off my old frame and transfer them to the Scott. But I wouldn't expect a bike shop to take a full build in on a Saturday - busiest day of the week - and be able to turn it round on the same day.
Notwithstanding how busy they might be, it doesn't allow for any unforeseen problems.
Fair play, it would be fairest on them to leave it for the week I guess0 -
I have been quoted £100-£120 to build from my lbs, at £40 /hr.
Any bits needed are extra. This is in NW London0 -
samsbike wrote:I have been quoted £100-£120 to build from my lbs, at £40 /hr.
Is that including parts? My LBS said about £35 for labour charges. But probably will work out at about £100 once you take into account, front mech, cabling, bar tape etc.0 -
Asprilla wrote:Have you tried the London Bicycle Workshop round the corner on Clerkenwell Road. Good guys in there.
No, but I will. Thanks.samsbike wrote:I have been quoted £100-£120 to build from my lbs, at £40 /hr.
Any bits needed are extra. This is in NW London
Condor quoted me approx. £120. Which LBS in NW London was that?0 -
£100 is probably fair enough if it includes new cables. My build/transplant was a case of taking the bars/lever etc off intact and fitting them straight to the new frame, so only the cable inners were replaced, no bar taping etc.
Allowing for dismantling and cleaning parts, a couple of hours labour sounds reasonable.0 -
Just rang London Bicycle Workshop. They were a bit vague about the cost, but reckoned on 3-4 hours @ £50/hr. Sounds rather expensive and the conversation didn't inspire me with confidence. I think I will be waiting until early July and getting Condor to do it. I know I can trust them.0
-
3-4 hours????? Bloody hell! My build has been a pain but all in taken 90minutes or so.
Really should set myself up as a mobile bike mechanic. £50 per hour I'm missing out.0 -
Yes, £50 an hour seems excessive. I've booked in with Condor for the build.0
-
markhewitt1978 wrote:samsbike wrote:I have been quoted £100-£120 to build from my lbs, at £40 /hr.
Is that including parts? My LBS said about £35 for labour charges. But probably will work out at about £100 once you take into account, front mech, cabling, bar tape etc.
No parts, just labour, cables etc all extra. I don't think it included fitting the bar tape.0 -
If its a mould mark, presumably quite a few of these frames would have these indentations in the same place? I have a line that runs the length of the top tube which I agree is probably from the moulding process, visible because of the thin paint. To be honest the indentation on my downtube mine looks like a very shallow dent. Westbrook haven't come back to me today, so really not sure what to do re swapping it for the Pro. Here's the "dent":
http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/MRL24 ... sort=3&o=0Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...0 -
My LBS quoted me £200 for bike assembly, that on a frame they were supplying.
I politely declined.
LBS no.2 quoted me £80, 2 hours work.I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles0 -
Erm why arent you peeps doing this work yourself?
I showed a friend recently how to put together his new bike and apart from cutting the steerer it took him a few hours with my guidance and prob. too many beers.
Get together share tools and build your own, its very very easy plus you'll collectively save hundreds of pounds which could be spent on beer and pizzaRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
itboffin wrote:Erm why aren't you peeps doing this work yourself?
I often do work on my old hybrid that I use for commuting and I quite often screw things up. It doesn't matter too much on that bike, but I really don't want to f**k up this lovely new frame. Plus, by the time I had bought a headset press and whatever tool you need for a pressfit BB I wouldn't have saved much. And, try as I might, I can't index SRAM gears. And I live in a flat with no space for a workstand.itboffin wrote:apart from cutting the steerer
That's one job I won't need doing. I need all the spacers I can get under the stem.0 -
Quick question, does anyone know what allen head bolt size (length) I need for the brakes.
thanks0 -
pete54 wrote:itboffin wrote:Erm why aren't you peeps doing this work yourself?
I often do work on my old hybrid that I use for commuting and I quite often screw things up. It doesn't matter too much on that bike, but I really don't want to f**k up this lovely new frame
+1 to that! I'm not the most mechanically minded anyway, but I really don't want to be learning on the job with this bike. I had planned to ask my LBS if I could watch and learn, but I'd really like the bike up and running early next week and I'm not sure I've got time. I do want to get some maintainance lessons sorted soon, though.0 -
Daniel B wrote:I think my biggest concern is that I saw someone else post earlier that their Medium frame had the wrong headset bits included - any way I can establish if this is the case with mine?
That would have been me - one of the bearing races was the wrong size, that's all. As long as both of yours are the same size and fit in the headset cups then no issue.0 -
All you need is some space in a mutual location, a few tools, beer and the hive mind oh and some beerZRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
pete54 wrote:itboffin wrote:apart from cutting the steerer
That's one job I won't need doing. I need all the spacers I can get under the stem.
I may well be wrong here, but I was under the impression that the steerer is longer than the spacers would allow - I would be pleased to be wrong as I too am not looking forward or likely to cut it myself!
Personally I would love to build this bike and the contessa (when it arrives) myself, but I am fearful of the headset and cutting the steerer.
I have a fairly decent toolkit, and am able to tackle bottom bracket changes, at least with traditional types, cassette changes, and freewheel changes - re-packing the bearings etc etc.
So I probably could do this, but it's the fear of wrecking £500 worth of frame.
If I wanted to invest in a headset press, would this do the job?
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cyclus-headset-press/
If I am not going to spend, lets say £50 to get two headsets fitted and two steerers cut, then I would be happier to invest that money in a specific tool that gives me the best chance of success if I were to do it myself.
And in that way if it is successful, that it pays for itself.
If not the above, any other item I should consider instead?
And as I have yet to work out how it all goes together, would the tool allow me to fit whatever bit needs to go onto the forks, or is that another tool altogether?Pollys Bott wrote:Daniel B wrote:I think my biggest concern is that I saw someone else post earlier that their Medium frame had the wrong headset bits included - any way I can establish if this is the case with mine?
That would have been me - one of the bearing races was the wrong size, that's all. As long as both of yours are the same size and fit in the headset cups then no issue.
Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
Scott CR1 SL 12
Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
Scott Foil 180 -
On the CD:
Page 9 of the file 2012_H_scale_carbon_en.pdf shows how the headset goes together (sorry I can't paste the image).
13 goes through 9 and in to 4? 12 goes with 3. I am not sure about 110 -
whitecot wrote:On the CD:
Page 9 of the file 2012_H_scale_carbon_en.pdf shows how the headset goes together (sorry I can't paste the image).
13 goes through 9 and in to 4? 12 goes with 3. I am not sure about 11
Thanks WC - much appreciated, I had not even realised there was a cd yet - only been back from holiday a few days, and straight into DIY
I will look out the CD tomorrow - Cheers!
Incidentally, I 'think' that the press tool above for headsets will also alow you to fit the press fit bottom brackets - at least one of the reviews on wiggle seems to say so.
I also realise you may or may not need one of these cup removers:
To get the original headset out (Not applicable in a new build case of course) but how would you remove a press fit BB - would the same tool work, is the BB also 1 1/8th inch?Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
Scott CR1 SL 12
Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
Scott Foil 180 -
Installed my headset ok, the cups just tapped in carefully with the head of a softish screwdriver. The race went down on the forks with the help of some plastic waste pipe. The steerer comes out at about 3inches too long with all the spacers installed and a stem fitted, so cutting is required.
The paintwork comes up beautifully with an application of Muc-off silicone shine, it really does make a huge difference0 -
Daniel B wrote:PB - sorry to be a dunce, but from my beautiful artistic masterpiece below, would it be correct that 1 & 2 are the headset cups, and should fit with 15 & 16 which are the bearing races?
I don't think I have that many bits in my plastic bag. Can anyone tell from this terrible photo?
0