Custom painted Torque, 05 boxxers fitted
Comments
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Cheers Jay.
Another update, I should have ordered the spray this week but I've only just found a place that can do it. Gutted as I'd be ready to colour coat the main triangle this evening. As it is, it'll have to wait until next weekend.0 -
Decided I couldn't wait until next week to contact a local paint shop and went to Halfords for my can of Lighning Blue...
First coat on the main triangle done!
Now, guys.... I'm thinking of going decal-less. I saw a prototype Superstar Components bike a few months back with no branding and it looked the nuts in ano purple. I can always go down the decal route later but what do you think to branding-free frames?0 -
Looking good, leave it sticker free for the stealth look.0
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I quite like some sort of stickerage on a frame, albeit understated stickers, nothing worse than a bike plastered in them...0
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Thanks for that! I've just nipped out and resprayed it - hows it looking now?
Clear coat going on now!0 -
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Clear coat is now drying in the warm house... however is smells a bit and the other half might be a bit pissed when she realises... Oh well.
The clear coat has run a bit in a few places, so once it's gotten past it's tacky stage It'll need to be rubbed slightly and possibly touched up.0 -
bluechair84 wrote:it smells a bit and the other half might be a bit pissed when she realises...
It'll need to be rubbed slightly
oh dear....
looks so good! thats a great colour. seems like you did a good job on it mate0 -
cheers
This'll probably be the last post on it's progress until the rear triangle is all done and it's been to the shops to be rebuilt. Then, it's on to Superstar's website with the credit card!0 -
That colour is ace. Nice work0
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It does make me wonder why I'm getting ready to hand over the better part of £200 to Argos to do my Edison frame. Especially as I only want satin black.
Hmmmmm0 -
Argos paint bikes?
If you just want satin matt black, you should give it a go your self with some of this stuff:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Simoniz-Satin-B ... B004PZPSX0
If you go to your local 'car spares' and buy enough (5 cans) it gets real cheap. The last bunch I bought ended up being about £2.50 a can!
It basically cheating... goes on anything, dries in about 5 mins and looks amazing. in the end i was doing hardly any prep cos the paint would just stick and cover everything and dry to an almost perfect finish. Seems hard wearing too... i sprayed my car alloys and practically half my landrover with the stuff.
Worth a try before splashing out 200£0 -
Cat With No Tail wrote:It does make me wonder why I'm getting ready to hand over the better part of £200 to Argos to do my Edison frame. Especially as I only want satin black.
Hmmmmm
Because Argos finishes are good, very good if you want a professional frame restoration. Some of the recent "home" sprayed frames that have been popping up on here recently are very good though.
I've got to do one for my daughter but i'm struggling to find someone that will do the sandblasting/stripping for me in Hull.0 -
Cat With No Tail wrote:It does make me wonder why I'm getting ready to hand over the better part of £200 to Argos to do my Edison frame. Especially as I only want satin black.
Hmmmmm
I've written a full blog post on what I have done to this frame covering alternative finishes and tips. I'm no pro, but if I can do it you don't need to be one by any means.0 -
sick Aaron.. good to see your more than just a teacher...
she gonna look nice when she finished and built.www.bearbackbiking.com
http://www.youtube.com/user/MrDelcol#play/uploads
hd vids
http://www.youtube.com/user/topasassin#play/uploads
http://www.vimeo.com/user2514116/videos0 -
phil_pompey wrote:find someone that will do the sandblasting/stripping for me in Hull.
If it's an alloy frame, don't let them sand blast it - I've been told it will destroy the alloy. Too soft. Bead blasting will work though as it's less abrasive.0 -
I read your blog before I made that post. It's really good.
I'm not usually one for blogs either, I usually find them a bit self indulgent, but I actually really enjoyed that. Your films are great too, highly recommended.
As for the comment about Argos finishes being outstanding, I appreciate that, but seeing how good some of these recent home-sprays are, and taking into account the fact it's a straight respray on an anodized frame and not a proper resto, and the fact satin black should be plss easy to do, it's really giving me pause for thought.
SHARKY - Are you saying that (because my frame is anodized grey), I can just get a half dozen of those cans and spray over?
Sorry for the thread hijack, and good luck with the rest of the build.0 -
bluechair84 wrote:The clear coat has run a bit in a few places, so once it's gotten past it's tacky stage It'll need to be rubbed slightly and possibly touched up.
Told you it would!!0 -
Cat With No Tail wrote:It does make me wonder why I'm getting ready to hand over the better part of £200 to Argos to do my Edison frame. Especially as I only want satin black.
Hmmmmm
£200 bloody hell thats expensive.0 -
Cat With No Tail wrote:SHARKY - Are you saying that (because my frame is anodized grey), I can just get a half dozen of those cans and spray over?
Sorry for the thread hijack, and good luck with the rest of the build.
Alloy needs to be converted to allow paint to stick, so if its raw an etch primer is used if the frame is anno it's already been converted, rub it down and use it as the "etch" base.
I would still use a primer as paint is designed to be used with a primer not only to allow a base but to help it reach full curing properties and depth of colour. (2packs especially)0 -
1mancity2 wrote:£200 bloody hell thats expensive.
Quote from Argos =
Respray frame & one part swing arm one colour plain or metallic £140.00
Fitting and lacquer over charge for decals £22.00
Cost of decals £30.00 (typical average)
Carriage £35.00 (covers collection and delivery if required)
I don't need the decals, as Bionicon are making me up some custom ones FoC. The price for the respray is actually £140, which includes all prep. But if I can do it myself for £50, seems a shame not to give it a go. We've got a garage with an electric door, the runners of which are ideal to form the frame of a spray booth too.0 -
1mancity2 wrote:Cat With No Tail wrote:SHARKY - Are you saying that (because my frame is anodized grey), I can just get a half dozen of those cans and spray over?
Sorry for the thread hijack, and good luck with the rest of the build.
Alloy needs to be converted to allow paint to stick, so if its raw an etch primer is used if the frame is anno it's already been converted, rub it down and use it as the "etch" base.
I would still use a primer as paint is designed to be used with a primer not only to allow a base but to help it reach full curing properties and depth of colour. (2packs especially)
Yeah, as long as its not raw aluminium you should be almost good to go, but even if it is, you just use some etch primer first.
If its a textured finish, you might want to flat it back for a smooth finish. Well flatting anything back is recommended to give the paint a surface to key to.
And as mentioned above, usually you want to do a bit more prep when painting stuff as its often hard to get a good finish, the clear coat is usally the hardest part. I never managed that. I think the key to that is lots of coats and flatting inbetween. Then you polish the surface to get the glossy clear result... plenty of youtube for that though.
Anyway, as I was never successful with that i just used that satin mat simmonz stuff, and never bothered with clear coat. As i mentioned, it felt like cheating. it literally went on anything and 99% of the time came out looking damn good. Seems pretty tough too...
The only issue i can see is with the lack of a clear coat. im not sure how 'satin matt' it will remain with all the oil and muck flying about.
Only mentioned it as its worth a go spending an hour or two and 5 quid to see what happens. It cant hurt as if you send it off to be done by the professionals they will strip any failed attempts anyway!
Right, sorry for the hijack, back on topic!0 -
And as mentioned above, usually you want to do a bit more prep when painting stuff as its often hard to get a good finish, the clear coat is usally the hardest part. I never managed that. I think the key to that is lots of coats and flatting inbetween. Then you polish the surface to get the glossy clear result... plenty of youtube for that though.
Anyway, as I was never successful with that i just used that satin mat simmonz stuff, and never bothered with clear coat. As i mentioned, it felt like cheating. it literally went on anything and 99% of the time came out looking damn good. Seems pretty tough too...
The only issue i can see is with the lack of a clear coat. im not sure how 'satin matt' it will remain with all the oil and muck flying about.
Only mentioned it as its worth a go spending an hour or two and 5 quid to see what happens. It cant hurt as if you send it off to be done by the professionals they will strip any failed attempts anyway!
Right, sorry for the hijack, back on topic!
Spray a mist coat i.e very light leave it for 10mins to go tacky then apply a full even coat, this stops the full coat running and sagging to some extent.
If it runs or sags leave it 5 mins then turn the frame so the run,sag goes in the opposite direction, this can reduce the size of the sag and run quite considerably.0 -
Cat With No Tail wrote:I read your blog before I made that post. It's really good.
I'm not usually one for blogs either, I usually find them a bit self indulgent, but I actually really enjoyed that. Your films are great too, highly recommended.
Thanks very much It's very rare I ever get any feedback from it.1mancity2 wrote:bluechair84 wrote:The clear coat has run a bit in a few places, so once it's gotten past it's tacky stage It'll need to be rubbed slightly and possibly touched up.
Told you it would!!
Aye! I name dropped you in the blog too to say thanks for the input. I forgot to mention afterwards, let me know if you want anything changing.1mancity2 wrote:Spray a mist coat i.e very light leave it for 10mins to go tacky then apply a full even coat, this stops the full coat running and sagging to some extent.
If it runs or sags leave it 5 mins then turn the frame so the run,sag goes in the opposite direction, this can reduce the size of the sag and run quite considerably.
Mind if I include this too?0 -
Use it in if you want bud, if it helps you build the blog up,
blogs good btw I read it when I get chance0 -
1mancity2 wrote:Use it in if you want bud, if it helps you build the blog up,
blogs good btw I read it when I get chance
Cheers to both0 -
Frame painted. Curing beneath the stairs until Wednesday before going to the LBS to be put back together again. Build commences a week today! Best start ordering parts...0 -
Looking good, start mine in a couple of weeks...0