@ Genesis Equilibrium riders
Comments
-
^^ I know, stock saddle is awful (anyone got a Fizik Pave, best saddle I ever owned) and I've already ordered brake cartridges. Will put some photo's up soon, as it happens mine has an interesting deformity!0
-
fossala wrote:How much weight would I be saving upgrading the seat post and wheels? I love the bike, it feels great. Just wish it was a little bit lighter.
Depends, how heavy are your stock wheels? The stock wheels on my BeOne weighed in at a mighty 2,300g - I replaced them with some Pro-Lite Bracciano wheels which are less than 1,500g. Admittedly, that's not my main commuting bike, and I'd probably go with something more hardcore if it were, but the difference in the feel of the bike is astounding. As wheels are rotating mass, weight saved there, especially around the rim counts waaaay more than the non-rotating stuff.
On my Equilibrium I have my own hand-build wheels which weigh in at about 1,900g - 36 spokes each and bomb-proof.0 -
Great thread! Yet another Equilibrium... 8)
0 -
I wish I could of got the 10 in another colour except black. The red looks much more sexy.0
-
-
fossala wrote:I wish I could have got the 10 in another colour except black. The red looks much more sexy.
Sick and wrong!
If only you'd come to me six months ago. We could have done a swap and saved me an awful lot of stress.0 -
I will get a picture of mine up later. It is only a stock 10, nothing special.0
-
Just bought a 2012 Equilibrium 10 for £925 at my local bike shop, it is a stunning bike0
-
Pessable wrote:My Equilibrium 20 has the original Tektro brakes. To be honest I've been meaning to improve the brake performance for ages but because I haven't used it that much over the Winter I haven't got around to it. I see the idea of changing the pads mentioned and also a nuclear option of replacing the whole assembly with Shimano R650's.
Firstly, which option do most Equilibrium riders recommend? Am I going to see much difference in stopping ability?
Secondly, I see the term "deep drop" used. What does this mean, and how can I make sure I order the right parts (whole brakes or just pads)?
I'm on the big-boned side, so I feel I ought to have better braking ability than I have at the moment!
PS Of course any new pads have to be that red.
about £7 a pair from Ebay)...tarty enough I think... will let you know if they actually stop the bike in a few days! Deep drop means that they are deeper from top to bottom (to allow for mudguard clearance).0 -
Here's mine, black saddle, bar tape and guards on their way, I'm not a fan of white.
Looks like whoever built my frame had a bad day and put a template on upside down (bottle bolts)! It rides beautifully so I reckon everything else is ok.
0 -
Greetings, all you Equilibrium riders (sizes 56 and 58).
I am looking for a new bike and no matter what the alternatives are, I always find myself at the Genesis' website drooling over Equilibrium. Hence, I think my mind's pretty much set up. However, I'm torn between two sizes and thus would like to hear some first hand opinions because, unfortunately, I do not have a possibility to test the bike. To add even more confusion, Evans' website gives contradictory information when viewing the sizing guides of the Equilibrium frame and Equilibrium complete.
I measure
Height: 6'0 (182cm)
Inseam: 33.5" (85cm)
Trunk: 24.5" (62cm)
The Competitive Cyclist fit calculator suggests me to get a 563mm top tube and 550mm seat tube. This falls conveniently between the sizes 56 (558 top tube, 530 seat tube) and 58 (567mm top tube and 550mm seat tube). I'm afraid of buying too big of a frame because nothing will fix a reach that is too long without compromising the stability of steering. On the other hand, the longer head tube of the size 58 is tempting because it would let me to have a more relaxed riding position without adding too many spacers. Although speed is essential, comfort comes first because bike is my primary means of transportation within the city and on the shorter inter city distances. Thus, I have to be able to spend a lot of time on the bike.
What sizes are you guys riding and do you find the it relaxed or stretched? What range of stem lengths are you using?
Thanks for your answers.0 -
adebisi wrote:Greetings, all you Equilibrium riders (sizes 56 and 58).
I measure
Height: 6'0 (182cm)
Inseam: 33.5" (85cm)
Trunk: 24.5" (62cm)
What sizes are you guys riding and do you find the it relaxed or stretched? What range of stem lengths are you using?
It's hard to say which frame will suit you better since there are lots of other variables that affect the reach such as your saddle position, your bars and the type of shifters. If you're buying the complete bike bear in mind that the Genesis bars have quite a short reach and also when you're looking at headtube length don't forget the external headset will add another 1cm or so compared to an integrated headset.
I'm the same height as you and went for the 58cm basically because I didn't want a frame with a shorter effective top tube than the bike I was riding at the time and I also wanted the slightly taller head tube. I'm running a 110mm stem with 10mm spacer under it, it's quite a relaxed position for me and I'm tempted to reduce the spacer height now that I've completed my LEJoG and will be doing fewer long distance rides. I started off with 20mm of spacers and it still feels fairly upright.0 -
adebisi wrote:Greetings, all you Equilibrium riders (sizes 56 and 58).
I am looking for a new bike and no matter what the alternatives are, I always find myself at the Genesis' website drooling over Equilibrium. Hence, I think my mind's pretty much set up. However, I'm torn between two sizes and thus would like to hear some first hand opinions because, unfortunately, I do not have a possibility to test the bike. To add even more confusion, Evans' website gives contradictory information when viewing the sizing guides of the Equilibrium frame and Equilibrium complete.
I measure
Height: 6'0 (182cm)
Inseam: 33.5" (85cm)
Trunk: 24.5" (62cm)
The Competitive Cyclist fit calculator suggests me to get a 563mm top tube and 550mm seat tube. This falls conveniently between the sizes 56 (558 top tube, 530 seat tube) and 58 (567mm top tube and 550mm seat tube). I'm afraid of buying too big of a frame because nothing will fix a reach that is too long without compromising the stability of steering. On the other hand, the longer head tube of the size 58 is tempting because it would let me to have a more relaxed riding position without adding too many spacers. Although speed is essential, comfort comes first because bike is my primary means of transportation within the city and on the shorter inter city distances. Thus, I have to be able to spend a lot of time on the bike.
What sizes are you guys riding and do you find the it relaxed or stretched? What range of stem lengths are you using?
Thanks for your answers.
Hi. I'm just over 5'10 and have a 32" inseam. I went for the 56, which is perfect for me with a 100mm stem. I'd have preferred a 110mm stem for aesthetic reasons only, but with my sloping shoulders I'm more comfortable a touch shorter than average for my hight.
Sounds to me that a 58 will be perfect for you.0 -
I'm 5ft 10/11. I have a 56 and it is the perfect size for me as stock. Sounds like a 58cm would be better for you.0
-
Just seen this if anyone is looking for a frame.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genesis-Equil ... 4603f151c70 -
I am just under 6ft and am on a 56cm. although I suspect the 58cm maybe a better fit.
I have just got the bike back on the road and its my first commute ride on it and I loved it, it wasn't as bad as I expected on the bumpy canal path although tonight maybe a better indicator as my legs will be a little more knackered.
Its surprisingly comfortable in its ride0 -
Thank you for the numerous answers. The general consensus seems to be that a 58 would be better, although both could be made to fit. Hence, at the moment I think 58 will be it.
I'll wait for the Supplier's answer, too, before placing the order.0 -
I'm 6'2" and have a 58cm with a 120mm stem. I have about 10 or 15mm of spacers under the stem, although I should really take them out but I havent got round to it yet.
Another thing to bare in mind is the seat angle is quite steep at 73.5 degrees, therefore Ive ended up using a post with quite alot of layback (thus lengthening the effective top tube)
If I was you, Id probably go for the 56 with a long (120mm or more) stem0 -
adebisi wrote:Thank you for the numerous answers. The general consensus seems to be that a 58 would be better, although both could be made to fit. Hence, at the moment I think 58 will be it.
I'll wait for the Supplier's answer, too, before placing the order.
I'm just under 6 foot but with short legs (30" inside leg). Mine was a choice between 54 and 56, I went for 56 as it's easier to cut down a steerer than add to it. That being said initially I found the reach too long but that might of been more down to coming from a hybrid.
So in short I'd go for the one that give you the most adjustment options, also 56 will be lighter if that matters.--
Chris
Genesis Equilibrium - FCN 3/4/50 -
A calliper upgrade before my scotlandtrip is in order. I need a good reason not to buy these http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/showPart. ... R360&bike= have confirmed price is for a pair so I don't think I'll get better than £50 for a pair of Shimano R650, I already have swisstop pads to go in them. Anyone care to suggest a better option?--
Chris
Genesis Equilibrium - FCN 3/4/50 -
Sketchley wrote:A calliper upgrade before my scotlandtrip is in order. I need a good reason not to buy these http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/showPart. ... R360&bike= have confirmed price is for a pair so I don't think I'll get better than £50 for a pair of Shimano R650, I already have swisstop pads to go in them. Anyone care to suggest a better option?
I don't think there is a better option, is there? If they're the same as the Condor branded ones I'm using from my old Fratello (I'm pretty sure they are) then they are fantastic and a vast improvement on the Tektros in both look and performance. Do it!0 -
Sketchley wrote:A calliper upgrade before my scotlandtrip is in order. I need a good reason not to buy these http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/showPart. ... R360&bike= have confirmed price is for a pair so I don't think I'll get better than £50 for a pair of Shimano R650, I already have swisstop pads to go in them. Anyone care to suggest a better option?
I use the same on my equilibrium. With swisstop green in winter, standard Ultegra pads in this weather. Just as good as the Ultegra sl calipers on my Roubaix IMHO.0 -
Does anyone have hands on experience with the chromo fork coming with an Equilibrium 00? How does it compare with the carbon fork of the 20?
It'd be especially interested in hearing your thoughts about ride quality. Of course, any numerical data about, e.g. the weight, will be appreciated, too. The reason I'm asking this is that I'm pondering whether to get a complete 20 or a complete 00 + a 105 groupset. I'd be excavating my bank account by roughly the same amount but the latter alternative would give me a spare Sora level groupset that I could use in another project.0 -
adebisi wrote:Does anyone have hands on experience with the chromo fork coming with an Equilibrium 00? How does it compare with the carbon fork of the 20?
It'd be especially interested in hearing your thoughts about ride quality. Of course, any numerical data about, e.g. the weight, will be appreciated, too. The reason I'm asking this is that I'm pondering whether to get a complete 20 or a complete 00 + a 105 groupset. I'd be excavating my bank account by roughly the same amount but the latter alternative would give me a spare Sora level groupset that I could use in another project.0 -
thegibdog wrote:Can't help re the fork but you'll also end up with worse wheels too if you go down the 00 and 105 groupset route. Why not buy the frameset and spec everything individually?
Because it is much more straightforward to buy a complete bike and to change only the parts you want to, instead of speccing every single piece starting from seatpost collar, spacers, bar tape etc. Furthermore, a complete bike has a steerer cut to an appropriate length and a readily faced steerer tube / a bottom bracket shell. This results in much less work and tools needed. Third reason would be the colour options available.
And if I wanted to upgrade the wheels, I'd aim a little higher than the RS10s coming with a 20. Upon an upgrade, you'd also end up with a spare wheelset that can be used on a crappy weather or in a side project.0 -
Stop messing and just buy the 20. Any sad faces resulting from the dent in the bank account will be replaced with stupid grin when you first ride it and everytime after that...--
Chris
Genesis Equilibrium - FCN 3/4/50 -
adebisi wrote:thegibdog wrote:Can't help re the fork but you'll also end up with worse wheels too if you go down the 00 and 105 groupset route. Why not buy the frameset and spec everything individually?
Because it is much more straightforward to buy a complete bike and to change only the parts you want to, instead of speccing every single piece starting from seatpost collar, spacers, bar tape etc. Furthermore, a complete bike has a steerer cut to an appropriate length and a readily faced steerer tube / a bottom bracket shell. This results in much less work and tools needed. Third reason would be the colour options available.
And if I wanted to upgrade the wheels, I'd aim a little higher than the RS10s coming with a 20. Upon an upgrade, you'd also end up with a spare wheelset that can be used on a crappy weather or in a side project.0 -
thegibdog wrote:Fair enough, only a suggestion. Don't think there'd be much more effort required but can understand if it's the colour you're going for, don't know why Genesis don't make all the colours available as a frameset.
I'm also wondering why other colours are not available. I love the red but having seen pictures of all kinds of builds, my personal opinion is that a matching or a shiny chrome fork, white bar tape and a white saddle are needed. When it comes to colour choices, blue is more versatile, I think. But it's just a matter of personal preference and cannot be argued.Sketchley wrote:Stop messing and just buy the 20. Any sad faces resulting from the dent in the bank account will be replaced with stupid grin when you first ride it and everytime after that...
The price difference between 20 and 00 is not an issue. I'm ready to invest the same money on upgrading the groupset after all. And maybe even the wheels. Here, I'm seeing an opportunity to get almost free (or at least very cheap) spare parts. Now, I'm trying to find out whether the chromo fork is utterly hopeless piece of crap. If a decent carbon fork is absolutely needed too, the upgrade scheme doesn't pay off any more.
Just for reference, bike24.com parts itself from a complete 105 groupset for 490€ (375 £) and a RS10 wheelset for 110€ (85 £). The price difference between a 20 and a 00 roughly 520 euros (400 £). In other words, a complete Sora groupset + a Shimano 2200 wheelset for 80 € (60 £). I find that rather reasonable.
All this boils down to one question. Is the Genesis chromo fork worth anything?0