Slow Rides For Unfit People - Rutland ROAD Ride Sun 9th Sept
Comments
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the red is actually really good, i find it more flowing and a better ride than the black route.0
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Cheshley wrote:well I've never been so I'll probably stick to the red...
on my own...
Cheshley, I'll do the red with ya...you can laugh at me scream when on the log walk, I don't like it
Caz xx0 -
Cheshley wrote:well I've never been so I'll probably stick to the red...
on my own...
Well I don't even know what a red run is - are we going skiing? ;-)
And I haven't any skill or technique so I'm not sure a black run would be a great idea.
So, if I can make it you certainly won't be on your own.Santa Cruz Tallboy0 -
dan1502 wrote:Cheshley wrote:well I've never been so I'll probably stick to the red...
on my own...
Well I don't even know what a red run is - are we going skiing? ;-)
And I haven't any skill or technique so I'm not sure a black run would be a great idea.
So, if I can make it you certainly won't be on your own.
Kinda the same as ski run grades. Blue is kinda pedestrian, Red is more advanced and Black is supposed to be expert. There is much discussion to be had on grading tho, Sherwood pines Red route I think is really easy but Dalby Forest Red requires at least one change of underwear (if does for me anyway). There seems to be no consistency in the grading.
Type 'Llandegla Red' into YouTube and see what's coming.......1998 Marin Hawk Hill
2008 Specialized FSR XC Comp
2008 Scott Speedster S30 FB
SLOW RIDES FOR UNFIT PEOPLE - Find us on Facebook or in the MTB Rides section of this forum.0 -
I enjoyed myself with you guys on sunday and am into llandegla on the 10th, but will probs need a lift and willing to share fuel costs etc: can anyone help ???2001 Cove Stiffee FR
Trek liquid 10
Dolan Hercules Carbon0 -
rottitera02 wrote:I enjoyed myself with you guys on sunday and am into llandegla on the 10th, but will probs need a lift and willing to share fuel costs etc: can anyone help ???
I'll ask Richie, but I don't know really as you've seen the size of our car, it's no bigger than a glorified skateboard
Caz xx0 -
sparrowlegs78 wrote:rottitera02 wrote:I enjoyed myself with you guys on sunday and am into llandegla on the 10th, but will probs need a lift and willing to share fuel costs etc: can anyone help ???
I'll ask Richie, but I don't know really as you've seen the size of our car, it's no bigger than a glorified skateboard
Caz xx
Cheers Caz, have got to go offline now but will be back on 2moz in day as i'm off work.....
Chow for now....Ste.2001 Cove Stiffee FR
Trek liquid 10
Dolan Hercules Carbon0 -
just been looking at YouTube and looks like the Red has some of my least favourite things....
Bermed switchbacks that drop away steeply.
I'll be hoping that there's someone with some spare confidence that I can borrow on the day :oops:1998 Marin Hawk Hill
2008 Specialized FSR XC Comp
2008 Scott Speedster S30 FB
SLOW RIDES FOR UNFIT PEOPLE - Find us on Facebook or in the MTB Rides section of this forum.0 -
i had a look at you tube and at least one of those vids that say its red run is showing the black
as far as i remember there are no steps on the red and the steep banked corners are the black
the high boardwalk type bridge is the black
the only bad boardwalk on the red is not in fact a boardwalk but a log thing (a board walk being made of planks, and this being made out of round logs)what are brakes for again0 -
Cheshley wrote:just been looking at YouTube and looks like the Red has some of my least favourite things....
Bermed switchbacks that drop away steeply.
I'll be hoping that there's someone with some spare confidence that I can borrow on the day :oops:
Cheshley,
You can ride Llandegla red, believe me if I can, you can, i am hopeless and can't do berms to save my life but I can get round Llandegla
Caz xx0 -
here is the place to look for Llandegla info and videos
http://www.oneplanetadventure.com/
its the website of the shop and cafe therewhat are brakes for again0 -
wikipedia is proving usefulSanta Cruz Tallboy0
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"Cheshley"
There seems to be no consistency in the grading.
The grading is a bit misleading.
green/blue=easy
RED=intermediate
BLACK=expert
but...
Generally an English/Welsh black is equivelent to the Scottish Reds.
Not all English reds should be graded red.Sherwood Pines should be blue,most of the Dalby red is dull and should be blue,The NFT is only red in places etc.
But then again one mans red is another mans blue and vice versa so i think its just done as a general rule.
I think the 7Stanes have got the grading pretty much right.0 -
kangaroo wrote:here is the place to look for Llandegla info and videos
http://www.oneplanetadventure.com/
its the website of the shop and cafe there
Just been having a look at this and getting quite excited about it already
I've mentioned it to 'the boss' and she's not said no so it looks like I'm on for it. (I have to ask cos we have a 7 month old baby that she will be left with all day).1998 Marin Hawk Hill
2008 Specialized FSR XC Comp
2008 Scott Speedster S30 FB
SLOW RIDES FOR UNFIT PEOPLE - Find us on Facebook or in the MTB Rides section of this forum.0 -
for those that were struggling on the rougher stuff, have you though about trying larger tyres. by larger i mean larger than 2.1. something like a 2.3 or 2.35 depending on the manufacturer
my enduro originally came with 2.3 eskars, which i felt were great tyres but unfortunately wouldn't go tubeless so when i switched over to tubeless (last year) i swapped down to 2.1 width tyres, i thought these were fine at the time, maybe a little faster so i continued with these until, i started riding a particular trail that had a steep downhill switchback and i was noticing my back end sliding out. so i put my larger tyres on for a test and the difference was fantastic. i found that not only was the back no longer sliding but the front turned better, i had more control and the bike rode over everything so much better. very confidence inspiring
thinner tyres might be faster but bigger ones ride over stuff much better and are more confidence inspiringwhat are brakes for again0 -
kangaroo wrote:for those that were struggling on the rougher stuff, have you though about trying larger tyres. by larger i mean larger than 2.1. something like a 2.3 or 2.35 depending on the manufacturer
my enduro originally came with 2.3 eskars, which i felt were great tyres but unfortunately wouldn't go tubeless so when i switched over to tubeless (last year) i swapped down to 2.1 width tyres, i thought these were fine at the time, maybe a little faster so i continued with these until, i started riding a particular trail that had a steep downhill switchback and i was noticing my back end sliding out. so i put my larger tyres on for a test and the difference was fantastic. i found that not only was the back no longer sliding but the front turned better, i had more control and the bike rode over everything so much better. very confidence inspiring
thinner tyres might be faster but bigger ones ride over stuff much better and are more confidence inspiring
I am with you on the wider tyres choice, when we came down that screaming descent on sunday i had ignitor 2.1 on front and it was dying to wash out on me a few times, very hairy indeed........ i wish for that reason i had left the m/king 2.4 on the front, the back didn't bother me as a bit of sliding from the rear is more controllable than the front.2001 Cove Stiffee FR
Trek liquid 10
Dolan Hercules Carbon0 -
rottitera02 wrote:kangaroo wrote:for those that were struggling on the rougher stuff, have you though about trying larger tyres. by larger i mean larger than 2.1. something like a 2.3 or 2.35 depending on the manufacturer
my enduro originally came with 2.3 eskars, which i felt were great tyres but unfortunately wouldn't go tubeless so when i switched over to tubeless (last year) i swapped down to 2.1 width tyres, i thought these were fine at the time, maybe a little faster so i continued with these until, i started riding a particular trail that had a steep downhill switchback and i was noticing my back end sliding out. so i put my larger tyres on for a test and the difference was fantastic. i found that not only was the back no longer sliding but the front turned better, i had more control and the bike rode over everything so much better. very confidence inspiring
thinner tyres might be faster but bigger ones ride over stuff much better and are more confidence inspiring
I am with you on the wider tyres choice, when we came down that screaming descent on sunday i had ignitor 2.1 on front and it was dying to wash out on me a few times, very hairy indeed........ i wish for that reason i had left the m/king 2.4 on the front, the back didn't bother me as a bit of sliding from the rear is more controllable than the front.
Interesting notes on thois tyre thig as I ran the Ignitor 2.1 on the front and didn't feel th etyre washing out but the point I was getting round to is that different bikes and riders behave differently and at the end of the day It is a confidence thing . If you feel that you have the control with a bigger tyre go for it.I'm going to blow the bank on a new build ( within reason ) NOW DONE!!
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss14 ... 010362.jpg0 -
on sunday i had a ignitor 2.35 on the front and it never felt as it was going to wash. it wasn't brilliant in the mud but my back tyre was sliding way more
my back tyre by the way was a minion 2.35f and i feel is a bit heavy, it was also starting to squirm by the end of the ridewhat are brakes for again0 -
I suppose the different handling characteristics of a hardtail like mine to a full susser will make a huge difference in grip between the front and rear, i had to keep weighting my front end on that descent just to stop it from washing out but the rear kept gripping even though it was bouncing around a bit, probably if i had paid a bit more attention to my weight aft/forward i may have been able to 'stabilise' the grip from front to rear more.2001 Cove Stiffee FR
Trek liquid 10
Dolan Hercules Carbon0 -
I was sliding all over the place in the mud but being such a newbie I have no reference point. I think I'll stick with my 2.1 ignitors for now and see how I get on in less muddy conditions - they seemed fine on the steep downhill towards the stream. What tyre pressures do you use out of interest? I weigh about 95kg with my kit on.Santa Cruz Tallboy0
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i use 30psiwhat are brakes for again0
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Ok, mine were probably a bit high at about 45 psi which I guess wouldn't have helped with grip in the mud.Santa Cruz Tallboy0
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kangaroo wrote:i use 30psi
I have just realised something......i was running at just under 40 psi in both, thinking that they would be easier to roll, have you used this psi before and what difference did you note between 30 as opposed to nearly 40...??2001 Cove Stiffee FR
Trek liquid 10
Dolan Hercules Carbon0 -
I increased mine from about 30 -35 on the basis I would be carrying more gear and having looked at the pressure range on tyre wall, 45 seemed pretty near the middle. I noticed they were better on the road.Santa Cruz Tallboy0
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I would imagine for llandegla that a reduction in presseure to around 30psi would be more beneficial as we won't be using tarmac and a bit more grip is better as the trails are more rolling friendly.2001 Cove Stiffee FR
Trek liquid 10
Dolan Hercules Carbon0 -
im not 100% on this but i wouldn't of thought you would have needed to put your pressure up that much for extra kit
myself i keep it at 30 no matter what kit i have with me
higher pressure
the benefits
are a harder tyre so faster rolling, this is good for tarmac and fireroads
the disadvantages
are the tyre carnt deform as much over the terrain so has less grip
lower pressure
the benefits
are a softer tyre so the tyre deforms around the ground and gives more grip,
the disadvantages
but (and there is some debate about this) with higher surface contact comes slower rolling speed and are more prone to pinch flats
as i said im not 100% on this stuff
also tubeless can give you the ability to go to lower pressures without the pinchflat penaltywhat are brakes for again0 -
Tyre pressures are a personal thing.I'm about 14stone and run 30F(super tacky 42a) and 34R(60a)in Maxxis HRs 2.35.I very rarely pinch flat and the grip is A1.My mate is 17stone and he runs the same pressures but does pinch every now and then.
The rolling resistance thing is only marginally worse and only really noticeable on Tarmac.It took me ages of messing about with tyres/pressures before i found a happy medium.I find its best to go for a good all rounder as no tyre is good in all conditions.
I like Kangaroo had Eskars(S-Works) on my enduro and loved them but the side walls are made of tissue paper and they were knackered in 3 months of Dark Peak riding :roll:0 -
My 2.4 Mountain Kings struggled in the thickest mud on SUnday because they hold onto it instead of shedding. I'm over 17 stone and run pressures in the mid-high 30's, I've never been able to measure it accurately as I use a track pump and always lose some when I take the pump head off. I very rarely have pinch flats and I may experiment with the pressures before the next ride to see what works best.1998 Marin Hawk Hill
2008 Specialized FSR XC Comp
2008 Scott Speedster S30 FB
SLOW RIDES FOR UNFIT PEOPLE - Find us on Facebook or in the MTB Rides section of this forum.0 -
Cheshley wrote:My 2.4 Mountain Kings struggled in the thickest mud on SUnday because they hold onto it instead of shedding. I'm over 17 stone and run pressures in the mid-high 30's, I've never been able to measure it accurately as I use a track pump and always lose some when I take the pump head off. I very rarely have pinch flats and I may experiment with the pressures before the next ride to see what works best.
I found the mud shedding problem with the m/kings myself a few weeks ago on a local flat trail, i also found the ignitor2.1 (front) i used on sunday had the samo prob but the maxxis advantage 2.1 i had on the rear was quite good at shedding the gloop even though i had them at a slightly high pressure.2001 Cove Stiffee FR
Trek liquid 10
Dolan Hercules Carbon0