Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

optimisticbiker

Having noticed a rumbling to the rear on my road bike (and it wasnt my stomach) I discovered there was about 2mm side to side play in the rear bearing on the drive side. As I had a new 11-28 cassette to fit I thought it a good opportunity to service the bearings, so stripped it all down only to find virtually no grease in the bearing on the drive side... it was all over the freehub and cassette instead, and distinct signs of corrosion on the cone itself . took out the cone and balls, cleaned it out, repacked it with grease, took some emery to the cone to clean it up a bit and refitted it all... less grumbling now but not perfect and if I take the right amount of play out it still feels definitely notchy. So guess I'll need a new cone, unless there is a problem with the bearing seat itself which is in the freehub anyone know if the seat is replacable or will I have to replace the whole freehub too?

cjcp

Got the turbo set up.

redvee

OptimisticBiker wrote:

Anyone know if the seat is replacable or will I have to replace the whole freehub too?

Campagnolo hubs you could but not Shimano.

optimisticbiker

redvee wrote:

OptimisticBiker wrote:

Anyone know if the seat is replacable or will I have to replace the whole freehub too?

Campagnolo hubs you could but not Shimano.

Yes, thats what I thought when I looked at Park tools site and Shimano techdocs site... bummer, now got to figure out what model freewheel I have and then find one in stock somewhere... looks like about £30 - £40 plus a new cone & balls (another £15 - £20 it seems)...

I'll get a new cone first and see if that's any better... and if not, In the meantime, I'll put the old one back and ride it to death...

roger_merriman

cheap pedals I bought as a these will do, have after just shy of 3K miles given up the ghost, so after checking that the pedals came off!

wandered down to the Bike Shop picked up some very clean white pedals with some decent studs, feel good. I suspect they will look less white and less clean very soon....

SimonAH

In mid-fettle. How in the blue blazes are you supposed to get powder coat out of BB threads? I haven't got a circular wire brush that will get in the bore..... :twisted:

SimonAH

It's amazing how writing something down can clarify a problem sometimes. Big circular wire brush plus bench grinder equals small circular wire brush. Stir in a spoonful of powerdrill and serve upon frame with crisp threads. :-D

Jay dubbleU

Intermittent squeaking from front end of the drive train began last week - hope its not the BB - removed and stripped both pedals, regreased and refitted using loktite - if it still squeaks it may be the BB although I've only had the bike since May this year

DrLex

Rowlocks!
Having decided to swap solid rear axle for hollow on my old bike, LBS sold me an expensive SS hollow axle without cones & spacers (£15 - all they had in stock). Now find that the threading is ever so slightly different, and have one cone stuck fast on the new axle. Tried holding it with grippers on the centre, but only managed to scratch shaft. Tried heating/freezing/penetrating oil- no joy. Given up and ordered £5 one with cones & spacers from eBay. Should have just ponied up £10 at Halfrauds; now have non-functioning bike, Engineering Dept-quality pocket blowpipe and small degree of self-loathing.

optimisticbiker

Hmmm.. so following previous post on cones I now know that a certain amount of side to side play in a bearing with a knackered cone is preferable to no play and a notchy feel... having not had a chance to test ride yesterday I went out for a 30miler today... it felt like I was towing a few tons of lead. Whereas yesterday after fettling it was possible to spin the rear wheel and have it continue spinning for a few tens of revolutions, this morning the bearing seemed to have seized up and the freewheeling was maybe 3 or 4 turns (thought it was brakes binding at first). After about 10 miles of pain it seemed to free up a bit; maybe the grease had warmed up, or maybe the balls that weren't round anymore and had shifted to a more convenient position. Whatever the reason, I need to resolve it before the next outing on this bike (next Sunday morning).

rjsterry

Chain and cassette swapped out, as previous one had been on since, erm, early 2011.

PBo

New handle bar grips installed withn the help of talc.

crud roadracer 2 mudguards - which I got for 21.60! replaced old knackered mudguards. They are a very elegant product!

EKE_38BPM

EKE_38BPM wrote:

EKE_38BPM wrote:

More like fettling that I need to do rather than fettling I've just done.
Road bike:
1) Measure seat tube and order either band-on FD or band for a FD I already have.
2) Order cable stops
3) Order brake blocks
4) Order bar tape
Fixie:
5) Remove BB and inspect. If spindle is worn, order new BB. If not, order either new non-driveside crank arm or new crankset
SS:
6) Remove and inspect non-drive side crank arm. If all looks good, replace and test for strange noises. If noise persists, remove and inspect BB. If lubable, lube. If not, order replacement.
Why do I seem to have so much non-drive side crank trouble on my FG and SS?
MrsEKE's BSO:
7) Order slick tyres as she has decided to do L2B next year. It would probably be a nightmare riding that for ~60 miles, so a different bike will probably be bought sometimes in the next few months, but the tyres can be swapped onto that.

Not really much fettling there, more like lots of buying stuff.

I blame Wiggle!

Of the list above, I've only managed to do number 6. I did it well though. Used proper tools and lube and everyfink!

I've finally pulled my wallet out and ordered the FD, the cable stops and a new crankset for the fixie. Brake blocks and bar tape to be bought from LBS. Tyres for Mrs EKE's BSO will be bought nearer the time. It may be a fad so I don't want to waste money on the BSO.

Oh yeah, nothing bought from Wiggle!

Twostage

OptimisticBiker wrote:

this morning the bearing seemed to have seized up and the freewheeling was maybe 3 or 4 turns (thought it was brakes binding at first). After about 10 miles of pain it seemed to free up a bit; maybe the grease had warmed up, or maybe the balls that weren't round anymore and had shifted to a more convenient position. Whatever the reason, I need to resolve it before the next outing on this bike (next Sunday morning).

Similar here. Giving the bike a once over last night I noticed 'back wheel reluctance' and went through the same 'must be brake binding' thoughts. As I've got a new set of wheels waiting for Santa to give me I decided to not go through the hassle of servicing the hub. Might weaken and do it next weekend though.

Twostage

DrLex wrote:

Rowlocks!
Having decided to swap solid rear axle for hollow on my old bike, LBS sold me an expensive SS hollow axle without cones & spacers (£15 - all they had in stock). Now find that the threading is ever so slightly different, and have one cone stuck fast on the new axle. Tried holding it with grippers on the centre, but only managed to scratch shaft. Tried heating/freezing/penetrating oil- no joy. Given up and ordered £5 one with cones & spacers from eBay. Should have just ponied up £10 at Halfrauds; now have non-functioning bike, Engineering Dept-quality pocket blowpipe and small degree of self-loathing.

Sympathies. I wonder if we should have a fettling failures thread to act as warnings to others ?

Gallywomack

My SKS P35s arrived today so I just went down and fitted the rear one during my lunch break. By 'eck that was fiddly! There was no way of attaching it to the brake arch - a nut could concievably be screwed into the bolt that holds the brake there, but it didn't come with one the right size. So it's just fastened at the chainstay arch and with the v-stay thingies to the mudguard eyes. It seems secure enough there but the v-stay arms are actually too long so even adjusted to the snuggest possible fit, the 'guard has a lot of clearance over the wheel at the rear. I will probably take it all off tomorrow and take a bit off the arms so it sits more flush, just have to be careful not to take too much off them...

DrLex

Thanks for your sympathy, TwoStage; at least it was on a "spare ride". I'll leave starting a failed fettling thread to someone with a more catastrophic or amusing tale.

UndercoverElephant

Gallywomack wrote:

My SKS P35s arrived today so I just went down and fitted the rear one during my lunch break. By 'eck that was fiddly! There was no way of attaching it to the brake arch - a nut could concievably be screwed into the bolt that holds the brake there, but it didn't come with one the right size. So it's just fastened at the chainstay arch and with the v-stay thingies to the mudguard eyes. It seems secure enough there but the v-stay arms are actually too long so even adjusted to the snuggest possible fit, the 'guard has a lot of clearance over the wheel at the rear. I will probably take it all off tomorrow and take a bit off the arms so it sits more flush, just have to be careful not to take too much off them...

You don't have a rear brake? Or are you riding with Cantis? If you have calliper brakes, you need to take them off and pop the mudguard bridge between the brake and the washer.

Gallywomack

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Gallywomack wrote:

My SKS P35s arrived today so I just went down and fitted the rear one during my lunch break. By 'eck that was fiddly! There was no way of attaching it to the brake arch - a nut could concievably be screwed into the bolt that holds the brake there, but it didn't come with one the right size. So it's just fastened at the chainstay arch and with the v-stay thingies to the mudguard eyes. It seems secure enough there but the v-stay arms are actually too long so even adjusted to the snuggest possible fit, the 'guard has a lot of clearance over the wheel at the rear. I will probably take it all off tomorrow and take a bit off the arms so it sits more flush, just have to be careful not to take too much off them...

You don't have a rear brake? Or are you riding with Cantis? If you have calliper brakes, you need to take them off and pop the mudguard bridge between the brake and the washer.

D'oh - for some reason it never occured to me to fit the bridge between the brake and the frame, I was only thinking in terms of attaching it on the other side of the brake arch :oops:

Yes that should be easy enough to do then - well I was planning to take it off again anyway so I can trim down the v-stays, so not much harm done...

UndercoverElephant

Gallywomack wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Gallywomack wrote:

My SKS P35s arrived today so I just went down and fitted the rear one during my lunch break. By 'eck that was fiddly! There was no way of attaching it to the brake arch - a nut could concievably be screwed into the bolt that holds the brake there, but it didn't come with one the right size. So it's just fastened at the chainstay arch and with the v-stay thingies to the mudguard eyes. It seems secure enough there but the v-stay arms are actually too long so even adjusted to the snuggest possible fit, the 'guard has a lot of clearance over the wheel at the rear. I will probably take it all off tomorrow and take a bit off the arms so it sits more flush, just have to be careful not to take too much off them...

You don't have a rear brake? Or are you riding with Cantis? If you have calliper brakes, you need to take them off and pop the mudguard bridge between the brake and the washer.

D'oh - for some reason it never occured to me to fit the bridge between the brake and the frame, I was only thinking in terms of attaching it on the other side of the brake arch :oops:

Yes that should be easy enough to do then - well I was planning to take it off again anyway so I can trim down the v-stays, so not much harm done...

My previous mudguards were some Giles Berthoud stainless steel jobs, they had a special nut to attach to the other side of the arch, so some 'guards do attach in this way. I think the SKS way is probably better, though.

rjsterry

rjsterry wrote:

Chain and cassette swapped out, as previous one had been on since, erm, early 2011.

Appear to have left the chain a link too long on the basis of this morning's ride

cjcp

Been having trouble with the lower back on the Sigma, and, recently, it felt as if I'd been riding "heel down". A stint on the turbo on the other bike seems to have confirmed this, so moved the saddle forward and the seatpost up a touch. Felt a lot better this morning.

UndercoverElephant

cjcp wrote:

Been having trouble with the lower back on the Sigma, and, recently, it felt as if I'd been riding "heel down". A stint on the turbo on the other bike seems to have confirmed this, so moved the saddle forward and the seatpost up a touch. Felt a lot better this morning.

Did exactly the same on the Equilibrium, my cheapo Chinese carbon seatpost had cracked and slid down, never quite noticed by how much so that when I replaced it with a new one, I keep raising and raising the saddle. Needed to bring it forwards a bit too, as I was losing power.

cjcp

UndercoverElephant wrote:

cjcp wrote:

Been having trouble with the lower back on the Sigma, and, recently, it felt as if I'd been riding "heel down". A stint on the turbo on the other bike seems to have confirmed this, so moved the saddle forward and the seatpost up a touch. Felt a lot better this morning.

Did exactly the same on the Equilibrium, my cheapo Chinese carbon seatpost had cracked and slid down, never quite noticed by how much so that when I replaced it with a new one, I keep raising and raising the saddle. Needed to bring it forwards a bit too, as I was losing power.

Still down-heeling a bit. Will have to measure one bike against the other. The saddle might need to go up a bit further, but at least the reach feels better.

davis

Ye gods. Funny how the simplest jobs turn into epic struggles.

A simple clean and degrease turned into broken gear cables, an accidental hub pulley removal, hoiking out broken bits of cable from a shifter with dental picks, a swap to Marathon Winters, endless playing with mudguards to make the tyres fit, and more general faffing than I care to mention.

4 hours later, the bike's reassembled, clean and ready for ice... My back is playing silly buggers and I'm waiting for the illicitly obtained industrial-strength codeine to kick in... At this rate I won't be walking tomorrow, much less riding.

meanredspider

Just trued the wheel on the back of my son's Dawes Discovery 501. Never seen a new wheel so far out of true though it's very satisfying to see it straight - especially as this was my first ever attempt. Not a big deal as he only used it on the turbo until he can walk again.

Fireblade96

Washed bike.
Lubed & tightened chain.

Love SS with mudguards for winter commuting :-)

itboffin

Changed flat pedals on the BSO and fitted a kickstand to the wifes hybrid (my old commuter).

Totally clean out the garage which has now been renamed to the "Turbo Dungeon" at least for the winter.

Lowered my Trek saddle, dont know how but it was 5mm to high

redvee

Cleaned and refitted the chain this afternoon after failing to spend money on the item I wanted, also put some pipe-cleaners on the hubs like wot the old boys use on their bikes.

Paul E

Finally got the seat height, angle and position right on my new to me but old trek usps, feels like I have regained some of the power and it's so much more comfortable.

All I need to do is find out where the slight rubbing sound is comign from from the FD like it's not trimmed even with a straight chain line arghh.