Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

meanredspider

My front derailleur guide cracked on Friday so I picked up a new (5700) one - only to find that the newer one no longer has the screw to allow you to open it and get it over the chain. As I have a whole 5600 groupset turning up tomorrow, I decided just to bodge a repair using the epoxy repair "metal" (that's got me out of trouble with my race car more than once) rather than split a continuous chain. Hopefully the 5600 guide will have the split. Worst comes to the worst, I'll just lose the ability to change big ring without doing it manually.

UndercoverElephant

Replaced the brakes on the Equilibrium with some I got a while back, half-price from Rose. Also replaced the rear mudguard bridge with a new one, cleaned and fettled and made like new. Bike is very silent now, as the guard was a bit rattly. Oh, and I *did* replace the rear tyre in the end, when it's through to the casing, apparently it's time.

itboffin

Picked a million bits of glass and stone from my front conti hardshell then when refitting couldnt get the bead to sit right, so now have a wonky wheel.

Soapy water didnt help and i know the rim is round.

Replaced the chain on my commuter, totally wornout which would explain the poor shifting over the last couple of weeks.

Put the chain back on my wifes bike - tsk!

veronese68

Tweaked the EPO's bike as she's got a temp job and will use the bike, I hope. Gave mine a quick check over. Then tidied the garage a bit because there's more space now as I sold the motorbike this morning.

Gallywomack

More of case of fettling I'll have to do here - there's something very weird going on with my back wheel. Every now and then, it kind of semi locks up, it feels as if the rear brake is engaged (it isn't) or I'm using a very heavy dynamo (I'm not). This is causing either a skid, or at least a skidding sensation (this syndrome is partly what prompted the 'slippery roads' thread the other night, I didn't realise at the time it was a mechanical issue though).

Any ideas what it could be? There's a general clicking sound that comes and goes (seems to relate to heavy pedalling). Not sure if it's a drivetrain issue or perhaps something to do with the bearings? The hub seems slightly bent, as when you rotate the cassette you can see it swaying in and out. I've also got an ongoing issue with the cassette, when I installed it I had to bodge a spacer, so I used the small cog from the previous cassette. This worked in terms of alignment, but I think it's slightly too wide and isn't allowing the locking nut to completely tighten and lock, which means the cassette comes loose when I use the bottom cog (although this is a recent development, it was fine for the first 8 months of its life or so). Oh, and the wheel is slightly out of true. So all in all, a bit of a mess!

Got a new bike on the way so will try to sort it out at my leisure and hopefully without having to shell out for a new wheel. I'm prepared to pay a LBS to true the wheel but if there is an issue with either the freewheel or the hub bearings is that going to be worth my while?

Apologies for long post with lots of questions, please feel free to answer any of them!

Twostage

Gallywomack wrote:

More of case of fettling I'll have to do here - there's something very weird going on with my back wheel. Every now and then, it kind of semi locks up, it feels as if the rear brake is engaged (it isn't) or I'm using a very heavy dynamo (I'm not). This is causing either a skid, or at least a skidding sensation (this syndrome is partly what prompted the 'slippery roads' thread the other night, I didn't realise at the time it was a mechanical issue though).

Any ideas what it could be? There's a general clicking sound that comes and goes (seems to relate to heavy pedalling). Not sure if it's a drivetrain issue or perhaps something to do with the bearings? The hub seems slightly bent, as when you rotate the cassette you can see it swaying in and out. I've also got an ongoing issue with the cassette, when I installed it I had to bodge a spacer, so I used the small cog from the previous cassette. This worked in terms of alignment, but I think it's slightly too wide and isn't allowing the locking nut to completely tighten and lock, which means the cassette comes loose when I use the bottom cog (although this is a recent development, it was fine for the first 8 months of its life or so). Oh, and the wheel is slightly out of true. So all in all, a bit of a mess!

Got a new bike on the way so will try to sort it out at my leisure and hopefully without having to shell out for a new wheel. I'm prepared to pay a LBS to true the wheel but if there is an issue with either the freewheel or the hub bearings is that going to be worth my while?

Apologies for long post with lots of questions, please feel free to answer any of them!

Clicking and sometimes feels like the brakes are on = bearings need greasing in my experience.

Gallywomack

Cheers, that does make sense.

Erm - is it an easy job?

redvee

Today is a day of rest but it has turned into a day of fettle. The new rear wheel was making noises yesterday which sounded like the bearings, opened up the hub and the driveside showed evidence of some grease but not much whereas the non-drive was packed with grease. Both sides are now packed out with grease. Some of the spokes need a tweek from the spoke key now but the cuppa beside me needs drinking first.

asprilla

Reproofed my waterproof jacket. Does that count?

roger_merriman

New chain fitted to the SS did rather need it, had done best part of three thousand miles...

EKE_38BPM

More like fettling that I need to do rather than fettling I've just done.
Road bike:
1) Measure seat tube and order either band-on FD or band for a FD I already have.
2) Order cable stops
3) Order brake blocks
4) Order bar tape
Fixie:
5) Remove BB and inspect. If spindle is worn, order new BB. If not, order either new non-driveside crank arm or new crankset
SS:
6) Remove and inspect non-drive side crank arm. If all looks good, replace and test for strange noises. If noise persists, remove and inspect BB. If lubable, lube. If not, order replacement.
Why do I seem to have so much non-drive side crank trouble on my FG and SS?
MrsEKE's BSO:
7) Order slick tyres as she has decided to do L2B next year. It would probably be a nightmare riding that for ~60 miles, so a different bike will probably be bought sometimes in the next few months, but the tyres can be swapped onto that.

Not really much fettling there, more like lots of buying stuff.

I blame Wiggle!

meanredspider

Entered garage at midday

Swapped the Boardman CX to 105 front and rear. Assembled wheels for CX and fitted ice tyres to those. Fitted Gators to other (original) CX wheels. Swapped bars on CX too - wrapped and cabled to my heart's content.

Cleaned Variado (mostly so I could pinch the 25c Gator off it)

Pinched the 11-28 cassette and long-cage derailleur off the Cayo. Pinched the M520 pedals off the Cayo to go onto the Cube MTB for racing today.

Swapped impossibly tight tyres on son's IslaBike MTB ready for relay racing.

Assembled and trial-fitted tow-bar mounted Thule bike rack.

Left garage at 7pm

Pondered loose new cassette issue I'd spotted on CX. Posted on here and got answer

Returned to the garage - pinched cassette (and vital spacer) off spare RS10 wheels and swapped onto CX wheel.

Prepared (read - hunted high and low for and eventually found) appropriate MTB kit for torrential rain and 60mph winds

Collapsed on sofa with a sore back.

itboffin

Likewise went into the garage at midday today and ...

after finding 6 new (dura ace, record, centaur, mirage, 105 & ultegra) front mechs :oops:

swap rear mechs from CX to Steel
new 105 black rear mech on CX
swap front mech from CX to Steel
new dura ace front mech on CX :shock:
index rear on CX - sweet even with Campag 10 speed shifters
clean Winter in just the area i'm working on
swap front mech from Steel to Winter
install pair of nine speed campag shifters (temp as I have 10 speeds to swap from CX)
fit old 10 speed chain (new one waiting)
cleaned another old 10 speed chain
index front and rear on Winter
lube chain and rear mech
remove quill stem and handlebars from Steel
remove unused 1" campag record headset from Steel
install 1" cane creek S2 headset on Steel with carbon spacers
remove colour matched Steel forks and replace with aero carbon forks
install new Deda red stem on Steel (couldnt find my 1" shim)
swap front planet-x C for B fitted with Conti gatorskin
replace seatpost with short lay back black FSA
replace saddle with ultra light Selle Italia SLR carbon (not mine)
tried several of my old but newish gear cables, all just too short (waiting for new shifters)
reset brake block positions whilst spending a long time thinking would this bike look better with my gold Ti brakeset and matching chain?
half arsed fitted brake cables using old red outers, red brake outers and black gear outers - does that work?
fitted my turbo spare michelin tyre to my spare Mavic rim, then for 20 secs considered building it, well I have a suitable rear hub and the wheel building book.
fitted my rubbish look keo pedals

threw away a bunch of old plastic bits, why do i keep so much crap. why cant i throw away worn out chains!

Now after all that I need:
1" stem shim
right-hand 105 black shifter (5600)
25c conti hardshell tyre
shiny red bar tape
a short straight carbon seatpost ???
mud guards - crud road racers
cut steerer tube

meanredspider

The job I forgot to do yesterday was to fit rear mudguard on the Cube MTB. One wet ar5e later I remembered - but, by that time, I was in the first lap of a 1 hour race through an awful lot of water - D'oh!

meanredspider

It was worth a wet butt though....

tailwindhome

Was told to bring the xmas tree out of the attic.

Obviously this meant I disappeared into the shed to take the wheels, pedals, computer and saddlebag off the Giant TCR. Give it a clean down and put it up into the loft.

The bits will be going onto the Cannondale as a winter trainer/ maybe start commuting again bike.

The pro como wheels (from the cannondale ) will be used to learn how to service wheels.

neiltb

did some work on the wifes commuter,

she ran out of gears at the end of her season (mtb with slicks) so replaced 42/32/22 chainset with 48/38/28, new cassette and chain at the same time and added a pair of kenda kwest tyres (pretty light and roll nice), shortened the rear brake outer at the seat tube as it caused a bit of drag and changed out the rear brake pads.

If she runs out next year, she can learn to spin faster.

dhope

Fixed the front derailleur clamp positioning - it wasn't quite straight and was a little high so was brushing the rear tyre.
I say fixed... turns out Halfords trimmed the remaining cable when they initially set up the bike so I don't have anything to play with to adjust the tension having repositioned the clamp slightly.

Can't shift out the big ring now and the chain falls off easily if I pedal back a few rotations.

MonkeyMonster

neiltb wrote:

did some work on the wifes commuter,

she ran out of gears at the end of her season (mtb with slicks) so replaced 42/32/22 chainset with 48/38/28, new cassette and chain at the same time and added a pair of kenda kwest tyres (pretty light and roll nice), shortened the rear brake outer at the seat tube as it caused a bit of drag and changed out the rear brake pads.

If she runs out next year, she can learn to spin faster.

the 28 will never be used - also much depends on rear cassette sizes...

neiltb

i know the 28 will never be used and considered taking it off, kept 11 tooth as the small sprocket at the back.

suzyb

Fitted my new tyres Now taking 5 mins to recover before going out to test them.

Fettling always seems harder work than actually riding the bike.

Twostage

Gallywomack wrote:

Cheers, that does make sense.

Erm - is it an easy job?

Sorry, just catching up. Its easy if you have cone spanners (very, very thin spanners if you haven't seen them before). Does need patience. Particularly if you want to end up with exactly the same amount of axle protruding at each end like I do. :roll:

Twostage

meanredspider wrote:

It was worth a wet butt though....

So you fettled a rainbow ? Now that is an achievement.

Twostage

suzyb wrote:

Fitted my new tyres Now taking 5 mins to recover before going out to test them.

Fettling always seems harder work than actually riding the bike.

It can be but it is easier to be doing it at home than unplanned road-side fettling.

redvee

After CityLink called yesterday I put the tyre, tube , sprocket and rimtape on my new wheel.

meanredspider

Twostage wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

It was worth a wet butt though....

So you fettled a rainbow ? Now that is an achievement.

Yes - with my butt too

EKE_38BPM

EKE_38BPM wrote:

More like fettling that I need to do rather than fettling I've just done.
Road bike:
1) Measure seat tube and order either band-on FD or band for a FD I already have.
2) Order cable stops
3) Order brake blocks
4) Order bar tape
Fixie:
5) Remove BB and inspect. If spindle is worn, order new BB. If not, order either new non-driveside crank arm or new crankset
SS:
6) Remove and inspect non-drive side crank arm. If all looks good, replace and test for strange noises. If noise persists, remove and inspect BB. If lubable, lube. If not, order replacement.
Why do I seem to have so much non-drive side crank trouble on my FG and SS?
MrsEKE's BSO:
7) Order slick tyres as she has decided to do L2B next year. It would probably be a nightmare riding that for ~60 miles, so a different bike will probably be bought sometimes in the next few months, but the tyres can be swapped onto that.

Not really much fettling there, more like lots of buying stuff.

I blame Wiggle!

Of the list above, I've only managed to do number 6. I did it well though. Used proper tools and lube and everyfink!

veronese68

EKE, doing it well is one thing. But the important bit is did it work? Sometimes a lash can work when doing it properly fails. Now pull your finger out and do the rest of it.

EKE_38BPM

Veronese68 wrote:

EKE, doing it well is one thing. But the important bit is did it work? Sometimes a lash can work when doing it properly fails. Now pull your finger out and do the rest of it.

Yeah, all working properly. If you don't do it properly, it ain't worth doing it at all.

Most of the rest of the stuff involves pulling my wallet out, not pulling my finger out.

veronese68

EKE_38BPM wrote:

Veronese68 wrote:

EKE, doing it well is one thing. But the important bit is did it work? Sometimes a lash can work when doing it properly fails. Now pull your finger out and do the rest of it.

Yeah, all working properly. If you don't do it properly, it ain't worth doing it at all.

Most of the rest of the stuff involves pulling my wallet out, not pulling my finger out.

Aah, that's a fair point. I'm also awaiting wallet based fettling. Kids Christmas presents come first, so making do for now.