Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

suzyb

More putting the BSO back together. Chain is back on (at the second attempt after I put it on without feeding it through the front dérailleur the first time :oops: ), gear shifters are back on and the rear gear gear cable is installed.

And I believe I know where all the screws that are left have come from and none is from anything particularly important

redvee

Messed around with the chain by adding a link to cope with the 16/18t freewheel combo on the hub and of course the brakeblocks needed to be repositioned cause of the added link. Fitted my Morph mini last night which meant the loss of a bottle cage though I do have a set of bosses on the underside of the downtube but not 100% happy putting a pump there cause of the crap flicked up by the front wheel.

CanalRider

Changed the middle front chainring as I suspect the original has been bent since I bought it. Increased the size of it too.
Re-indexed gears.
Cleaned the crap from usually missed areas.

nax-ian

Had a terrible creaking sound coming from the BB( on the road bike) area!! so stripped it all down, cleaned, re-greased an tightened it all back up. Now so quiet , am like some kinda stealth missile going down the road!!

But strange as it sounds whenever I go over 35kph the front disc on the MTB starts to rub an makes a kinda pinging sound. An yet when I spin the wheel by hand everything seems to be running straight an true!?
That'll be my next fettle

UndercoverElephant

Did a hub service on the back wheel last night and replaced the bearings. Running rather smoother than it was, ain't no mistake!

In the car though today as the nice, shiny Miche cassette and lock-ring referred to above are going back to CRC. The lockring specified 45 Nm torque, which, it appears was enough to tear the damn thing in two so now it won't tighten.

I think I've had enough of shiny, Italian engineering for the moment. I have a slightly duller Shimano Tiagra cassette on my desk ready to be put into service tonight. Hopefully I'll be back on the bike tomorrow.

gert_lush

gave the bike its 1500 mile clean (ok well its not clean clean, but its definitely cleaner than it was, how do people get theirs so sparkly clean!)
Also took the pedals apart and de-greased/re-greased them, hoping that stops the creaking, unless its my knees :roll:

edit. oh and the slight scraping sound that started a few days ago when i put the rear brake on and I thought was just a bit of grit in the pad, was definitely metal on metal from a worn out pad, oh pants they wore of fast!)

asprilla

Changed the stem on the S1 for a longer one last night and fitted a new seat post and saddle. Unfortunately the new stem means that I'll probably have to re-do all the cabling.

One day I might even ride this bike.

Trailradar

put rear wheel on

redvee

Tightened the saddle clamp a few nights ago then the following morning had to readjust mid commute and straighten it in the frame, felt OK in the kitchen the previous night. Got to replace the battery in the cadence sensor tonight.

UndercoverElephant

Well, I got the Tiagra cassette on the back wheel no problems. That wheel is simply smooth as silk, I'm amazed at the difference! I used grade 10 bearings which are among the best and some fancy red-lithium based grease. It just spins for ages...

Think I may need to adjust the cones again though, because if I over-tighten the QR skewer it pinches the hub too much. Either that or I could just not over-tighten the QR skewer.

Agent57

I put new brake blocks on my commuter last night. For the past few weeks, I've needed at least 10m to stop, and to keep my fingers crossed for no emergency stopping situations. Now I can once more lock my wheels up. \o/

beverick

Put new V-brakes, blocks and cables on the commuter last night, the final phase of it's second major rebuild (costing around £300!). The old brakes no longer pivoted, I basically had to bend the arm of the brake to get the blocks to touch the wheel!

Being able to use all 27 gears again as well as being able to stop smoothly and without skidding was something of a relavation.

The bottom bracket doesn't grind anymore and the chain doesn'j jam between the middle and top chainwheels when I change up. The steering is strangely smooth and there's now no grinding sensation when I turn!

I still have a creak from the off side pedal and I've cut the cable to the front deraillure too long so it 'clicks' against the crank arm in top gear but other than that it feels like a new bike.

(Moving to a longer crank arm and an 11 tooth high gear may not have been to sensible on a hybrid with my level of fitness though!)

Bob

londonbairn

new stem on the front of the Wilier, 90mm instead of 120mm to match the fitting I had on my ROI. Feels way better!

UndercoverElephant

Swapped the hard-to-move-as-chuff twist-shifters off my daughter's new bike, replaced them with some cheapie Shimano clicky-shifters. Guess what? She can actually change gear now!

mudcovered

Replaced the broken spoke in my back wheel and double checked the spoke tension in the rest. Took all day, several hours to find where I'd hidden the spare spokes and 20 mins to actually do the job. :roll:

Also cleaned all the excess crud of the cassette while it was in pieces.

Mike

snellgrove

Took saddle off, slid it foward as far as it would go.. trying to get sit bones to be in contact more. I naturally sit on my perineum too much I think, but if I think about it I can sit on my sit bones quite comfortably. Trying to make that happen without having to think about it.

Took seatpost out and cleaned the seat tube, and post. Re-lubed the tube and put post back (preventative maintenance to prevent seatpost and frame falling inseparably in love)

general cleaning

niblue

I ditched the standard saddle (uncomfortable) and seatpost (heavy) on my Roadrat and replaced them with a Brooks B17 and a nice Richey WCS from my spares box. The uncomfortable Bontrager grips also went and were replaced by some comfy Specialized BG ones and some dinky little bar-ends, and the slightly too long and low stem was replaced with one 10mm shorter and with a touch of rise. Much better.

Unfortunately my plan to fit a compact 50/34 double on the front has come a cropper (despite buying all the bits) as the bolt through Alfine isn't compatible with the Roadrat's combined chaintug/mech hanger so I can't fit the tensioner. I could possibly drill out the chaintug/mech hanger but I suspect it'd end in tears. I'll probably just settle for replacing the 20t rear with a 22t and the 45t front with a 39t when touring as the standard gearing is fine for commuting and local runs.

davis

Stuck an Altura Arran seatpost bag on the commuter. Its only mounting point is a single clamp with a thru-screw which you're supposed to tighten against the seatpost. Decided I wasn't going to do that on a carbon seatpost so wrapped it in a bit of old innertube and put a homemade cylinder of metal (fabricated from a computer part) around that. Spreads the load, and hopefully protects the post.

rjsterry

Just checked my chain length and found that I could shorten it by 4", so got to use my new chain tool (tut, tut LBS for fitting a too-long chain).

beverick

Spent an hour trying to find why the rear gears were jumping on the tourer. Then spent the best part of another hour trying to get the mashed remains of a plastic ferrule (if you can have a plastic ferrule!) out of the cable adjuster.

Bob

redvee

Lubed the rear cable from the frame to the brake thinking this would cure the sticking brake but it still happens so it means a clean and grease of the V bosses which is the first time I've done it since the winter so can't really complain, also have to chuck some new blocks in the front.

itboffin

Posting here because it'll get more eyes

Does anyone know why the chain would slip when pushing off in anything other than the absolute centre line?

It also down shifts if I back pedal in again almost any gear...?

New chain, cassette and bike for that matter, i'm stumped.

davis

itboffin wrote:

Posting here because it'll get more eyes

Does anyone know why the chain would slip when pushing off in anything other than the absolute centre line?

It also down shifts if I back pedal in again almost any gear...?

New chain, cassette and bike for that matter, i'm stumped.

Cassette/chainring/wheel not straight?

itboffin

davis wrote:

itboffin wrote:

Posting here because it'll get more eyes

Does anyone know why the chain would slip when pushing off in anything other than the absolute centre line?

It also down shifts if I back pedal in again almost any gear...?

New chain, cassette and bike for that matter, i'm stumped.

Cassette/chainring/wheel not straight?

Nope straight as a die, i'm thinking either a chain length or tension issue.... basically I have no idea

Aidy

itboffin wrote:

Posting here because it'll get more eyes

Does anyone know why the chain would slip when pushing off in anything other than the absolute centre line?

It also down shifts if I back pedal in again almost any gear...?

New chain, cassette and bike for that matter, i'm stumped.

Sticky jockey wheels?

rjsterry

Chain length is certainly worth checking, as I found myself. Still slightly stunned that mine was 4" too long. It was slipping when I pushed hard, but since shortening (admittedly only 24hrs) it feels much more solid.

ParkTools have a good section:

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=26

itboffin

mmm interesting will check those out and report back, ta

rjsterry

Just had a look at the pic of your new Ribble, and the chain looks about right there, but then you do say you've got a new chain so that might be the old one.

desweller

Bent derailleur hanger?

itboffin

New chain new derailleur which isn't bent, v v v odd