Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

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Comments

  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    I should also add that i'm running a £16 Miche 10 speed cassette which looks fine, famous last words...
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • itboffin wrote:
    I should also add that i'm running a £16 Miche 10 speed cassette which looks fine, famous last words...

    I had this on the Miche one I had! Turned out that when I used the torque wrench to get up to the specified 45 nM (Really Bastard Tight), it wasn't the wrench that gave up, it was the lockring. As such it actually wan't holding it at all. Luckily I had a nice Tiagra cassette I could replace it with. Italian engineering eh?
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    itboffin wrote:
    I should also add that i'm running a £16 Miche 10 speed cassette which looks fine, famous last words...

    I had this on the Miche one I had! Turned out that when I used the torque wrench to get up to the specified 45 nM (Really Bastard Tight), it wasn't the wrench that gave up, it was the lockring. As such it actually wan't holding it at all. Luckily I had a nice Tiagra cassette I could replace it with. Italian engineering eh?

    Did it look tight?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • It did until I looked closer at the lockring and noticed a crack where the thread attached to the outside. I probably wouldn't have noticed if I hadn't taken the cassette off again to do a hub service and just couldn't tighten it after.
  • valedragon
    valedragon Posts: 37
    Virtually stripped my old road bike, with plans into turning it into a single speed bike.

    http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/use ... ocart2.htm

    Also planning on upgrading forks, headset, brakes, levers, chainset and bottom bracket.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Put the proper Garmin mount onto the Allez and replaced the cadence sensor I robbd off the Tricross for the Allez, don't try and pair them up whilst in the same room as the other bike you'll be using as it confuses the Garmin, I had to take bike into the hallway and close the door. Will be retaping the bars with Fizik Microtex tape to replace the BBB stuff that starts at the centre of the bars and filling the 747 XT SPDs with grease in the hope that this will stop the creaking and put the 770's onto the Allez.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • Rich158
    Rich158 Posts: 2,348
    New tyres, GP4000s :lol: I've heard lots about them, time to see how they hold up. I'm tempted to stick with the cheap ones for commuting and go with the Conti's for races, sportives etc.
    pain is temporary, the glory of beating your mates to the top of the hill lasts forever.....................

    Revised FCN - 2
  • biondino
    biondino Posts: 5,990
    I bounced my fixie aggressively up and down on the tarmac to try and figure out where a new pinging sound is coming from, does that count as fettling?
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    biondino wrote:
    I bounced my fixie aggressively up and down on the tarmac to try and figure out where a new pinging sound is coming from, does that count as fettling?

    If you've cured the pinging problem then yes, if not, No.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • Hals1967
    Hals1967 Posts: 231
    Just fitted some new tyres, Vittoria Rubino Pro 3's to replace the Mondo's that came with the Allez - haven't had a chance to ride on 'em yet. Went on very easily (for new tyres). Had no bother with the Mondo's but an easy, fairly low cost upgrade.


    1967 Engine
  • Just fiited new XT shifters and cables to my MTB and made the cable outers red with heat shrink :)

    £1.25 for sign up http://www.quidco.com/user/491172/42301

    Cashback on wiggle,CRC,evans follow the link
    http://www.topcashback.co.uk/ref/MTBkarl
  • Levi_501
    Levi_501 Posts: 1,105
    Front mount for the V2s came today.

    Fitted, bleed up and ready to rock n roll 8)
  • Moved the cleat on my L shoe forward a few mm.

    The muck in the cleat slots had set like concrete...

    Andy
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Spent 30 mins last night trying to find the source of the tick-tick-tick noise from the front wheel last night. Couldn't feel anything on the rim, the join was smooth. Loosened the pivot bolt and pushed the calliper by hand to the rim on each side and still couldn't find the source. After much swearing and drinking of lager I moved the brake block up a few mm and cured the problem and can only figure it out to be a sticker on the rim.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • Harry182
    Harry182 Posts: 1,170
    I'VE FINALLY FREED THE SEIZED ALU SEATPOST FROM MY STEEL ROAD FRAME!

    Apologies for yelling about it but it's a big deal. The post was really stuck. I'd been riding without a binder nut/bolt for nearly 10 years. I've had the frame for nearly 25 years and it's showing it's age. But now, with the seatpost finally out, I can get the frame resprayed. :D
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    Repaired a couple of tubes I had knocking about :roll:

    So just how many patches should one use before binning?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    itboffin wrote:
    So just how many patches should one use before binning?

    If the tube is more patch than tube then bin it, which in your case and all the liasons you've had with the PF is quite possible. Though it seems she's dumped you and gone to seomebody else.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    redvee wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    So just how many patches should one use before binning?

    If the tube is more patch than tube then bin it, which in your case and all the liasons you've had with the PF is quite possible. Though it seems she's dumped you and gone to seomebody else.[/quote

    Could be because i'm spending more time resting than riding ATM :wink:
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • mudcovered
    mudcovered Posts: 725
    Harry182 wrote:
    I'VE FINALLY FREED THE SEIZED ALU SEATPOST FROM MY STEEL ROAD FRAME!

    :D

    Care to share your technique? I've got a similarly seized seatpost on my old steel MTB.

    Mike
  • Roastie
    Roastie Posts: 1,968
    Harry182 wrote:
    I'VE FINALLY FREED THE SEIZED ALU SEATPOST FROM MY STEEL ROAD FRAME!

    Apologies for yelling about it but it's a big deal. The post was really stuck. I'd been riding without a binder nut/bolt for nearly 10 years. I've had the frame for nearly 25 years and it's showing it's age. But now, with the seatpost finally out, I can get the frame resprayed. :D
    Did you cut it out or use ammonia? I battled an entire weekend cutting a post out with a hacksaw blade. Madness.
  • Harry182
    Harry182 Posts: 1,170
    Roastie - I'd read about the ammonia method and was very tempted to try it but couldn't (be bother to) figure out where to get it from. Resorted to the hacksaw blade and lots of time...


    Mudcovered - In case you haven't seen it yet, all you need to know about seized seatpost removal is here -
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

    For various reasons I skipped the ammonia and the CO2 cartridge steps and went right to Sheldon's last resort, ie hacksaw blade. I reckon with the proper tools - mole grips, hacksaw and blade - you could get the post out in an hour or two. (With all my faffing around it probably took me over 8 hours over the course of a couple of months(!).)

    Read about this stuff elsewhere on the forum. Looked like it might be worth a try.
    http://www.arco.co.uk/products/44C4013
  • marchant
    marchant Posts: 362
    After putting it in the shed and ignoring it for a few months, I got the geared bike out this morning and tweaked the gears. Funny how what was a frustrating and seemingly impossible task (front shifts ok, hi-low limits out; adjust limits, shifting's gone to hell) took five minutes....
  • Jamey
    Jamey Posts: 2,152
    It's always the way...

    Seemingly massive job you've been dreading all week turns out to be over and done with in 15 minutes, tops.

    Seemingly quick tweak to something minor reveals massive, glaring problem that requires entire drivetrain to be removed and a tool you don't own yet and won't need again for 18 months.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Spent the last hour attacking the SS with babywipes getting the month old mud from the K&A towpath off the frame & wheels. TBH I was shamed into it after seeing somebody elses Tricross gleaming in Bath yesterday and thought, my bike is that colour too :oops: Also have mounted the bike hook on the wall so that one bike can hide behind the door off the floor.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • mudcovered
    mudcovered Posts: 725
    redvee wrote:
    Spent the last hour attacking the SS with babywipes getting the month old mud from the K&A towpath off the frame & wheels.

    Sticky isn't it. As a daily user of that path you now know why my bike is never clean. :lol:

    Mike
  • Gussio
    Gussio Posts: 2,452
    Changed chain (SRAM PC951), stripped, cleaned and reassembled bottom bracket, removed incredible amount of gunk from jockey wheels, and replaced brake pads (Kool Stop V-Brake dual compounds). Then spent a very happy 30mins removing the glass and stones which were embedded in the my Armadillos. All done out on the patio, in the last of the day's sunshine. Was idyllic.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    Adjusted my cleats ooO 8 times in 45 miles :evil:
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    Swapped a sticking 105 rear caliper for an Ultegra SL one last night and changed the blocks for Swisstop green (I'm finding Kool Stop salmons don't last very long so trying something new).

    My front 105 caliper now looks massive. I always thought they were quite small, but it's huge in comparison. Front caliper now needs to go on a diet.
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    Asprilla wrote:
    Swapped a sticking 105 rear caliper for an Ultegra SL one last night and changed the blocks for Swisstop green (I'm finding Kool Stop salmons don't last very long so trying something new).

    My front 105 caliper now looks massive. I always thought they were quite small, but it's huge in comparison. Front caliper now needs to go on a diet.

    Aren't the greens for carbon rims or is that yellow?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • biondino
    biondino Posts: 5,990
    itboffin wrote:
    Asprilla wrote:
    Swapped a sticking 105 rear caliper for an Ultegra SL one last night and changed the blocks for Swisstop green (I'm finding Kool Stop salmons don't last very long so trying something new).

    My front 105 caliper now looks massive. I always thought they were quite small, but it's huge in comparison. Front caliper now needs to go on a diet.

    Aren't the greens for carbon rims or is that yellow?

    Agree they don't last very long but their stopping power is the best I've tried so far so for a few quid every few months I can live with it!