Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

elbowloh

itboffin said:

Someone remind me, if you're falling forward with full weight on your hands but the saddle height and distance to bar is spot on, what else could I be missing?

Have you lost some core strength also? ;-)

arthur_scrimshaw

wolfsbane2k said:

The quickest and least effective of chain clean - A quick squirt of GT85 while spinning the cranks, a wipe with a microfiber cloth, followed by a re-grease with muc-off wet.



I've really got to get something more suitable that the grey gunk inducing muc off.

I don't know why I keep buying Muc off lubes, habit I think? The dry needs applying pretty much every ride in the summer and the wet congeals into solid mass after a few days which as you point out, requires a solvent of some sort to shift. When I was a kid 3:1 oil was the thing, can't remember if it worked or not!

arthur_scrimshaw

Pertaining to the thread title, communting and touring bike wheel bearings stripped out, cleaned, re greased and adjusted. 4 wheels took me all Saturday pm, cup & cone bearings. Why do I always struggle adjusting them, I have all the tools but getting that fine point between too tight and having a bit of play takes me 3 or 4 attempts per wheel. All seems good until I put the wheel back in the frame and then discovers a tiny amount play. Rinse and repeat. Most of my other bikes have cartridge bearings, I can see the attraction.
GRRRR.......

itboffin

elbowloh said:

itboffin said:

Someone remind me, if you're falling forward with full weight on your hands but the saddle height and distance to bar is spot on, what else could I be missing?

Have you lost some core strength also? ;-)

Nope quite the opposite in fact, moved the saddle back 1cm and down 5mm, it already feels much better. I'm waiting for a shorter stem to arrive before attempting a ride out, even though this frame is a bit too big there's enough adjustment room to get a reasonable fit, after all I rode it as a single speed for years with no issues.

itboffin

after a week of ankle pain i decided to tweak my cleat position, Q hours of mm adjustments and not a lot of progress, i've eventually settled on a reasonable position but its hard to tell because my ankle hurts so much.

Then it occurred to me this shoe was okay and then suddenly became stiff and sort of locked in place, what could have caused that?

Turns out its the rubber grip strip on the bottom of my look cleat is sticking in the pedal and holding my foot in the wrong place with no float. Which i didnt notice until i've injured myself and now most likely buggered the alignment.

^^ Perhaps this should be in rants ^^ but useful for anyone else having sudden onset cleat issues.

Wheelspinner

Been a fettling frenzy of late at WS Towers. Drivetrains have been swapped from one frame to another, brakes bled (not 100% successfully in one case it has to be said.. ), hangers straightened, saddle positions tweaked, tyres tubeless-ed as a trial because I am sick of patching tubes, swapped to single chainring on a couple bikes just because less faff.

Need to build some more wheels but CBA just now.

N0bodyOfTheGoat

A change of tyres ready for the freezing conditions in Southampton tomorrow morning...

Gravdal ice spike tyre up front.

Jumbo Jim on rear... Because I found a broken spoke on the rear 29er wheel, so felt it was best to use fat wheel until fixed.

Hopefully, I will stay upright!

itboffin

Does anyone know if its possible to open one of those Aldi bikemate sealed rear lights? i'm seems to have a switch fault but otherwise good battery life still, i'd like to see if its fixable before sending to the bin.

wolfsbane2k

itboffin said:

Does anyone know if its possible to open one of those Aldi bikemate sealed rear lights? i'm seems to have a switch fault but otherwise good battery life still, i'd like to see if its fixable before sending to the bin.

Which version? The moon nebula knock off, or the crescent knock off?

I've swapped out the USB port on a nebula knock off previously as it had corroded a lot, but was otherwise a perfectly working light.

wolfsbane2k

Spent half an hour last night trying to work out why i'd got a flat yesterday morning, despite fixing the puncture the day before, and then riding 20 miles without any issues, and it still being up when I put the bike away.


Unable to find the cause, did the bucket of water test and cotton wool around the tyre; nothing.

Stuck it back on the bike, 3 rides later and it's still holding. Can only assume i'd knocked the valve as I put it away.

luv2ride

Attempted change to tubeless tyres on the new gravel bike. Gravel King SK 650b on WTB i25 rims. Very leaky round the tyre bead and also the valve. Will leave to seat with sealant and see if it works.

EDIT: seem to have stayed inflated. Come up as 50mm on the 25mm internal rims

Tuanzuan

Today I changed the tire for the X caliber 7, which has worn out a long time ago, however, due to my busy work, I have replaced it for now.

asprilla

Fitted mudguards to kids new bikes they got for Xmas.
Changed the top headset on the Cervelo after it was leaking rusty liquid on my last wet ride.
Changed the tyres on the CX to more road suitable ones.
Tried to remove the freehub from the spare CX wheelset. Think I might need a pro.

wolfsbane2k

Over xmas took the opportunity to strip the commuter down, and gave it a damn good clean, and a replacement pannier rack, as the old one has taken a couple of hits over it's 13 years of life, and one of the uprights is best described as "no longer upright"

Also noted that I've obviously put a few scratches into the paint on the seat stay when locking the bike up, as well a spot where the edge of a hydraulic brake cable connector had taken the paint down to bare metal so stuck a few frame protectors on, and replaced the one on the chainstay that was getting worse for wear.

Still haven't solved the creaking and clicking though, think the cheap flat's are toast already.

itboffin

wolfsbane2k said:

Over xmas took the opportunity to strip the commuter down, and gave it a damn good clean, and a replacement pannier rack, as the old one has taken a couple of hits over it's 13 years of life, and one of the uprights is best described as "no longer upright"

Also noted that I've obviously put a few scratches into the paint on the seat stay when locking the bike up, as well a spot where the edge of a hydraulic brake cable connector had taken the paint down to bare metal so stuck a few frame protectors on, and replaced the one on the chainstay that was getting worse for wear.

Still haven't solved the creaking and clicking though, think the cheap flat's are toast already.

Creaking & clicking of an old bike could be the warning signs of a frame crack around the BB.

wolfsbane2k

itboffin said:

wolfsbane2k said:

Over xmas took the opportunity to strip the commuter down, and gave it a damn good clean, and a replacement pannier rack, as the old one has taken a couple of hits over it's 13 years of life, and one of the uprights is best described as "no longer upright"

Also noted that I've obviously put a few scratches into the paint on the seat stay when locking the bike up, as well a spot where the edge of a hydraulic brake cable connector had taken the paint down to bare metal so stuck a few frame protectors on, and replaced the one on the chainstay that was getting worse for wear.

Still haven't solved the creaking and clicking though, think the cheap flat's are toast already.

Creaking & clicking of an old bike could be the warning signs of a frame crack around the BB.

Shush, this one's only 1100 miles / 7 months old after I returned the last one with a cracked top tube/seat post weld.

It goes away when the bike's wet, so it's water getting in somewhere.

mrfpb

Finding my new Boardman ADV (bought Oct ast year) is wearing through parts very quickly. Replaced brake pads after 300 miles then realised that chain was also worn. Found when replacing the chain that the small chainring was bent inwards.

The 48/32 FSA MegaExo crankset is an odd thing, there only seems to be a 11 speed online, but the bike is Sora apart from the chainset/bb. Chainrings are hard to come by, so I've bought a Shimano BB and transferred the 46/34 Sora crankset from my CdF along with the 11-34 cassette.

Bottom brackets are an absolute pain to change. Who on earth designed the square taper tool interface? A tool that's guaranteed to keep slipping out unless you bodge something from the Heath Robinson bike maintenace manual.
Anyway, I finished it late last night, but didn't want to risk the ride to work on it, so I'll have to test ride it tonight.

Next up will be converting the CdF to Sora 3x

asprilla

Started cleaning up the di2 cabling on the tt bike.

God its painful. If shimano made the cables on their tt shifters removable and interchangeable, like they are with the road shifters, then things would be so much easier.

Since they are integrated it mean I have to buy joining junctions and extension cables to try and keep everything in the bars.

itboffin

mrfpb said:

Finding my new Boardman ADV (bought Oct ast year) is wearing through parts very quickly. Replaced brake pads after 300 miles then realised that chain was also worn. Found when replacing the chain that the small chainring was bent inwards.

The 48/32 FSA MegaExo crankset is an odd thing, there only seems to be a 11 speed online, but the bike is Sora apart from the chainset/bb. Chainrings are hard to come by, so I've bought a Shimano BB and transferred the 46/34 Sora crankset from my CdF along with the 11-34 cassette.

Bottom brackets are an absolute pain to change. Who on earth designed the square taper tool interface? A tool that's guaranteed to keep slipping out unless you bodge something from the Heath Robinson bike maintenace manual.
Anyway, I finished it late last night, but didn't want to risk the ride to work on it, so I'll have to test ride it tonight.

Next up will be converting the CdF to Sora 3x

Are you using one of these?

mrfpb

Yes, I have one that shape and a longer one that fits on to a socket wrench. I eventually used the one in the pic fixed on to the axle/bracket with the crank bolt and a big 40mm M8 washer. I still needed to clobber the spanner an unreasonable number of times with a rubber mallet to get the BB to start turning.

I used the bike stand to grip the top tube and push the bike onto the floor so I had three contact points (top tube, two wheels) to keep the bike from rotating as I whacked/turned the spanner.

Fitting the hollowtech BB was a piece of cake in comparison.

asprilla

Trimmed the donut holder off the CX bike. It's only taken two years to get rid of the excess 25mm.

New 110mm stem has arrived so tonight Mathew I'm going to be putting that on the single speed and putting the chunky 100mm from there on the CX.

itboffin

i've been anti fettling the winter bike, black chain = check! covered in road muck = check! left in the Man Cave as is = check!

racerex

The kid came home from college and asked if he could ride my old Colnago. First time out he discovered the pedals were shot. So I was forced to buy a new pair for my bike and pass the old down. Life is good.

itboffin

made a start fitting the R8000 mech groupset I recently bought, already i'm stuck as none of the bits are anything like previous versions of Shimano gearing.

Questions:
What are the small plastic arrows inside the shifters?
- that would be the other end of the cable cover.
How on earth does that front mech cable routing work?
Do the two notches on the rear mech align either side of the derailleur hanger b screw stop?
Why are there so many adjustable 2mm screws on the front & rear mech's?
Why have they made this so complex?

wolfsbane2k

Spent 15 minutes trying to dig out a hawthorn, well, thorn, from the front tyre - it was well jammed in. Makes me think I ought to take a set of pliers with me, was very glad I was doing it with a warm cup of tea next to me, rather than beside the road in sub zero temps.

Only noted it cos I went out to the shed to check the state of the batteries for my lights on sunday morning - would have been a rather unpleasant surprise if i'd not seen it till 6 am today.

itboffin

fettled the sh1te out of my wheelsets today, swapping cassettes across four sets of wheels ready for my 11s upgrade of the Scott.

Now i've found an amazing detailed video on how to setup a R8000 front mech and what all the mental screws are for, i'm almost ready to start cabling, but first to buy some gray outers to match the frame.

https://youtu.be/-3_EU4cccW4

luv2ride

itboffin said:

fettled the sh1te out of my wheelsets today, swapping cassettes across four sets of wheels ready for my 11s upgrade of the Scott.

Now i've found an amazing detailed video on how to setup a R8000 front mech and what all the mental screws are for, i'm almost ready to start cabling, but first to buy some gray outers to match the frame.

https://youtu.be/-3_EU4cccW4

Thanks for sharing the vid...I've got a new r8000 FD to go onto my Solace disc, as the original Ultegra mech with the longer arm moves very close to the tyre when fitted with 28-30mm tyres. Haven't been looking forward to fitting it as have had issues dialling in the original FD in the past. I should really get this fitted before the weather gets better and it starts getting more use than the 'mudguard bike'...the video will be handy!

Anyone know how the inline adjuster should be set before I attach the cable to the fixing bolt and start trimming the mech?

red.rider

No need for an inline adjuster, the R8000FD has a tensioning screw. Set this to the minimum tension initially, as its very hard to put too much tension by pulling the cable by hand.

I made the switch from R6800 to R8000 last year. The only problem for me was my (already short) FD cable was only just long enough to complete the complex cable routing on the R8000. There was just a couple of mm of cable left to add a crimp cap, which falls off regularly. Cables will be replaced soon to fix this.

itboffin

i'm waiting for a set of dura ace brake cables and gear outers to arrive before I continue the upgrade, fingers crossed it goes smoothly and my Scott is my goto bike.

I'm still considering my options on the CAAD12 upgrade, Chorus 11s with TRP mech disc brakes is okay but really if i'm using discs i'd like the same stopping power my SLX has, really the only benefit of mech disc is no rim wear.

asprilla

Reworking the cockpit of the TT so there is minimal visible cables. So far so good, but sorting out the hidden brakes is a massive pain.

Very happy that I've managed to get the charge junction box under the saddle