Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

itboffin

fitting the mech's today, front wasnt that difficult but the high / low adjustment screws are periodically rubbing in the high front & rear positions, i've left the cable long enough to adjust after a bit of use, i'm not 100% its setup right even through shifting up and down are perfect if a little noisy.

The rear is easy enough even though the new cable location means you need to manually bend the gear cable out before cutting, seems to me like they should have continued the guide round the screw mounting.

As noted elsewhere on the web the rear barrel adjust isnt as effective as previous models.

asprilla

Had an hour and a half to myself yesterday so I thought I'd re-cable the brakes and re-take the bars on the TT bike.

I managed to get the front brake done.

Flippin' internal routing through bars, stem, head tube and fork is a nightmare.

Rear brake is under the BB and I think I'll have to take the crank set off to do it.

itboffin

Upgrade complete, very happy with the R8000 and the new bike weight of 7.5Kg including pedals, bottle cages and garmin mount

langtounboy

I’ve just put this Single Speed together for my daily commute.


First impressions are Wahoooooo but the gearing is too much 53/16 & the stem is a bit short.
I’ve a 50T chainring arriving in a couple of days & I’m taking it on a detour home tonight to collect a longer stem.
Frame from FB £200
Wheels vision team 35 from the other commuter
Chain set old 10 speed Ultegra from the shed.
New single speed chain
New brake shoes 😎

wolfsbane2k

Quick chain and RD clean as the Muc-off black grinding paste was building up, and yet the chain was covered in surface rust.

Decided to investigate/fix the slightly/girndy rubbing disc brake, which meant taking the wheel and brake calipers off to get access to give them a proper clean. When putting the calipers back on and trying to re-align the to the disc, a fox decided to jump onto the fence beside me, scaring the bejesus out of me.

Cue fingers into the spinning disc/spokes, and loss of fingernail....

6wheels

wolfsbane2k said:

Cue fingers into the spinning disc/spokes, and loss of fingernail....

Painful!

tgotb

Celebrated the end of the CX season by giving all 3 bikes (mine and junior's) an extra-thorough cleaning and relube. I'm not going to need a pit bike for the next 8 months, so that got a new gear cable (inner and outer), chain, jockey wheels and headset bearings, and is now sat in the loft next to the turbo bike. I'll do the same to the other two at some point over the Summer. Tub wheels all cleaned, dried, and stacked up in the loft; clinchers will be fine until September.

It's surprisingly satisfying to clean a bike when you know it's actually going to stay clean for a while...

edward.s

Finished building my new 650b wheels and fitted tyres, cassette and disks. Tubeless on these, easy-peasy with the compressor.

Took the 700c wheels out of the bike and ended up rebuilding the hubs (Shimano, cup/cone), blowing out the freehub and re-lubing, new cassette, new chain and a true up and health check. They've done well, 2000 miles since I built them, all on the winter bike, very little runout and the bearings weren't too bad at all. For inexpensive hubs and rims they have been really good.

asprilla

Set-up the brakes on the TT bike, which involves removing the crankset. Then swapped the wheels with the Cervelo before realising that those wheels are 4mm wider and so they didn't actually turn.

Set-up the brakes again.

Think it's ready to go on the turbo now.

Wheelspinner

asprilla said:

Set-up the brakes on the TT bike, which involves removing the crankset. Then swapped the wheels with the Cervelo before realising that those wheels are 4mm wider and so they didn't actually turn.

Set-up the brakes again.

Think it's ready to go on the turbo now.

?? You need brakes on the turbo?

asprilla

No, but I dont want to have to go about setting up the brakes if I want to take it out on the road.

Also, with brakes under the BB you need to sort the brakes or the cable interferes with the chain rings.

wolfsbane2k

new shiny shiny EL-10 chain for the bike fitted.
1400 miles and the old one's almost at 0.75%. (not actually lying flat on the chain checker.

denis992

Finally admitted I am getting old/worn out and flipped the stem on the commuting bike to match the Sunday club ride bike for reach/stack. Been using the commuting bike for club rides as my daughter has my semi aero wheels to help her through Duke Of Edinburgh (3 months of cycling, ripped knee tendons) and my neck/shoulder has started hurting again. Either going to have to up the physio exercises or push for the surgery. Decisions.
Then gave the road bike chain a good soaking in chain lube and freed the sticky links, in the hope I might ever get my wheels back from my daughter...or give up and buy a new set!

itboffin

Cheated by wiring it into one of my smart sockets, nice and bright now

itboffin

copying Shane Miller making a homemade wheel off workstand by modifying a folding wooden saw bench, 2 for £20 from B&Q and an old track front hub with a couple of bits of wood and padding to rest the BB on, very pleased with my few mins DIY project.

I'll put some pictures up later.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyOw2o-53Nk

Wheelspinner

Picked up correct thread die to repair main pivot bolt for Ti MTB, re-assembled all linkages finally so hopefully tomorrow's test run it won't squeak on every bump...

Just need to set up rear shifter again and all go

itboffin

more mancave adjustments, this time re positioning the music stand that holds a second monitor i use with my laptop for stats, now its out front and i can close the laptop lid and have a clear view of the 42" plasma, paired with a wireless compact keyboard and mouse all that's left to do is sort out my speaker system for better voice rather than music.

My old apple TV connected via HDMI the sound quality is excellent for music, explosions and crashes etc but picking out speech over the turbo is very difficult, there's no graphic equalizer on the apple TV, perhaps positioning the speakers behind me might help.

mrfpb

Finally got the 3x9 set up complete on my Genesis CdF after 6 weeks of the bike being on the workstand waiting for the shifters and cables.

nb the Shimano shifters came with all the cables, but despite the frame being a modest 54cm/M the brake cables were too short to reach the disc brake callipers.

I haven't ridden it yet, and I suspect the fd is going to need some fine tuning once I get going.

denis992

Replaced rear derailleur pulleys. Hurrah, can now shift from 11th to 10th!
Bit surprised they needed replacing after only 3,600 miles, I guess the fact that the cassette and chain also are coming to the end of their lives is probably not helping.

N0bodyOfTheGoat

After months of dither and delay, instead of popping to the local Halfords on the Voodoo because of the miserable weather yesterday and my manflu19, I randomly decided to try my first ever gear cable change... Using just the rear mech cable inner of the ~£25 DA9000 full cable kit I bought around Xmas.

OMG, what a faff!

Thankfully, once I grabbed the short snapped section out of the racket and perilous RS-505 white guide that gets worn through use, the up and down levers unjammed.

By luck, first time I tried to send the rear mech cable down to the BB junction, I was able to retrieve cable and send it down the next outer to the mech... Except it would only shift through the smallest five sprockets. The levers refused to move towards the seven largest sprockets, much stress, my worst fears of needing a new brifter coming to fruition and sod's law the 105 7020 set were no longer ~£239 at Merlin!

Decided to pull cable out and try whole process again. Top(?) of the Shimano range cable now covered in weird "fluff" and slightly kincked from grip pressure while trying to keep good cable tension while tightening rear mech cable clamp.

Starting to wonder why the hell I didn't at least do a cheap trial run by grabbing one of https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-parts/gears-drivetrain-and-cables/shimano-stainless-steel-inner-gear-cable-1.2-x-2100mm-984096.html at this point.

Looked like I didn't wedge the cable head properly inside the rachet mechanism first time around and that caused the shifting probs.

Then the real "fun" started, couldn't get cable back to the BB hole and when I finally did, I lost grip of the 1/2mm allen key I was using to try and fish the cable out and it then got lost inside the tubes!

Finally got cable to BB hole inside section of https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07Z4WQY7D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00 and then through the outer heading to mech.

Bit of fine tuning and it worked, I finally had more than two gears for the first time in ~6 months!

But then I tried to be clever, trying to tweak the front mech cable, because shifts to the big ring had become a bit tempremental of late and 50/11 was experiecing quite severe chain rub...

Made a right pig's ear of adjusting mech tension and the high/low screws and spent what seemed like an age being unable to get chain into the big ring at all!

Finally got it working with help from Youtube vids. \o/

But didn't get chance to do a test ride either outdoors or on turbo, as by this stage several hours later, it was gone 1800 and I needed to get dinner sorted.

So I've got to do a test ride later this morning after a few chores and if it works, decide whether to just leave things alone and enjoy 2x11 again, or do something mad like replace the 11-32 for an 11-34 cassette; fit a new r7000 GS mech and replace the KMC X11... Or leave that until winter properly finishes and I've recovered from the ordeal of this fettle!

wolfsbane2k

Cleaned the bike, checked torque on all the bits that should be torqued, fixed ( hopefully) the sticky brake caliper, stuck in new pads, and then spend 2 hours trying to get the pads and calipers to run clear without interference.


I'd get it running perfectly, then tighten the bolts ever so slightly and the caliper would move enough that they'd start rubbing. I'm wondering if my flat mounting points are actually "flat", or could do with a bit of a facing off.

I had to walk away for a breather a "few" times ... how the hell do others manage this?

mrfpb

If they are disc brakes, then I allow a bigger gap anyway, as the crud getting caught in a tight gap is more annoying than the extra pull at the levers. The teeny difference in allignement is no longer so annoying then.

itboffin

Changing inner chainring and BB on my SRAM rival, wow that BB is shagged, there’s an actual thick layer of mud inside and the chainring bolts had bonded together

itboffin

33T inner ring fitted as well

The newly fitted GXP BB is a 2019 model and doesnt require a pair of 1mm spacers as the old version did, this time I’ve added a wavy washer on the drive side, need to find a bodge for the 16mm screw.

Next job is replacing wheel bearings

wolfsbane2k

mrfpb said:

If they are disc brakes, then I allow a bigger gap anyway, as the crud getting caught in a tight gap is more annoying than the extra pull at the levers. The teeny difference in allignement is no longer so annoying then.

I've not found a way to setting up clearance with hydraulics - but aye, I used to do this with my mechanical disc brakes.

luv2ride

Finally got round to fitting these to the Spyres on my cross / wet weather bike: https://www.merlincycles.com/trp-road-disc-cable-kit-93697.html
Have put up with "so, so" breaking, especially on the rear, for years. Cant quite believe just what a difference the compressionless outer and flexi cable for the shifter/bar routing has made. Blimey! At under £18, think the cable set was cheaper than Jagwires too

mrfpb

mrfpb said:

Finally got the 3x9 set up complete on my Genesis CdF after 6 weeks of the bike being on the workstand waiting for the shifters and cables.

nb the Shimano shifters came with all the cables, but despite the frame being a modest 54cm/M the brake cables were too short to reach the disc brake callipers.

I haven't ridden it yet, and I suspect the fd is going to need some fine tuning once I get going.

After two short rides the front set up changed perfectly, but the rear gears were slipping under load. I was about to start fettling the RD but then realised the cassetts had done 2,000 more miles than the chain. I had a newer cassette (same ratio) from the other bike, so put that on and it runs lovely now. I did my favourite 30 mile loop yesterday, and had a good ride. Changing under load, especially from middle to small ring, was a lot smoother than any triple I've used in the past.

I feel really pleased with myself for doing it all at home.

mrfpb

One niggle with the above is that the new Sora levers don't have shims to bring the levers nearer to the bars.. I had put the new levers in the exact position of the old, and found it hard to reach the brakes with more than one finger when in the drops, so couldn't ride with my hands loosely on the brakes, as I usually do.

What makes it more than a niggle is that my bar tape wrapping skills are terrible, and I know it will take over an hour to sort if I have to move the levers more than a few mm.

langtounboy

Unconverted my Dolan SS.
Full internal routing re-cable
Ultegra front & rear derailleurs
11 speed cassette
Drop handle bars
Ultegra 6800 shifters
New chain sized & fitted
Chain rings replaced with 53/39; will swap to compact but I didn’t have them yet
Bars rewrapped
Indexing sorted.

wolfsbane2k

Built kid 1's Carrera that came unbuilt as unable to get to the shop to pickup a pre-built due to isolation.
Lifted kid 2's pre-built frog bike out of the box and stuck on pedals, and straightened the bars.