Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

itboffin said:

Someone remind me, if you're falling forward with full weight on your hands but the saddle height and distance to bar is spot on, what else could I be missing?

Have you lost some core strength also? ;-)

Pertaining to the thread title, communting and touring bike wheel bearings stripped out, cleaned, re greased and adjusted. 4 wheels took me all Saturday pm, cup & cone bearings. Why do I always struggle adjusting them, I have all the tools but getting that fine point between too tight and having a bit of play takes me 3 or 4 attempts per wheel. All seems good until I put the wheel back in the frame and then discovers a tiny amount play. Rinse and repeat. Most of my other bikes have cartridge bearings, I can see the attraction.
GRRRR.......

after a week of ankle pain i decided to tweak my cleat position, Q hours of mm adjustments and not a lot of progress, i've eventually settled on a reasonable position but its hard to tell because my ankle hurts so much.

Then it occurred to me this shoe was okay and then suddenly became stiff and sort of locked in place, what could have caused that?

Turns out its the rubber grip strip on the bottom of my look cleat is sticking in the pedal and holding my foot in the wrong place with no float. Which i didnt notice until i've injured myself and now most likely buggered the alignment.

^^ Perhaps this should be in rants ^^ but useful for anyone else having sudden onset cleat issues.

A change of tyres ready for the freezing conditions in Southampton tomorrow morning...

Gravdal ice spike tyre up front.

Jumbo Jim on rear... Because I found a broken spoke on the rear 29er wheel, so felt it was best to use fat wheel until fixed.

Hopefully, I will stay upright!

itboffin said:

Does anyone know if its possible to open one of those Aldi bikemate sealed rear lights? i'm seems to have a switch fault but otherwise good battery life still, i'd like to see if its fixable before sending to the bin.

Which version? The moon nebula knock off, or the crescent knock off?

I've swapped out the USB port on a nebula knock off previously as it had corroded a lot, but was otherwise a perfectly working light.

Attempted change to tubeless tyres on the new gravel bike. Gravel King SK 650b on WTB i25 rims. Very leaky round the tyre bead and also the valve. Will leave to seat with sealant and see if it works.

EDIT: seem to have stayed inflated. Come up as 50mm on the 25mm internal rims

Fitted mudguards to kids new bikes they got for Xmas.
Changed the top headset on the Cervelo after it was leaking rusty liquid on my last wet ride.
Changed the tyres on the CX to more road suitable ones.
Tried to remove the freehub from the spare CX wheelset. Think I might need a pro.

wolfsbane2k said:

Over xmas took the opportunity to strip the commuter down, and gave it a damn good clean, and a replacement pannier rack, as the old one has taken a couple of hits over it's 13 years of life, and one of the uprights is best described as "no longer upright"

Also noted that I've obviously put a few scratches into the paint on the seat stay when locking the bike up, as well a spot where the edge of a hydraulic brake cable connector had taken the paint down to bare metal so stuck a few frame protectors on, and replaced the one on the chainstay that was getting worse for wear.

Still haven't solved the creaking and clicking though, think the cheap flat's are toast already.

Creaking & clicking of an old bike could be the warning signs of a frame crack around the BB.

Finding my new Boardman ADV (bought Oct ast year) is wearing through parts very quickly. Replaced brake pads after 300 miles then realised that chain was also worn. Found when replacing the chain that the small chainring was bent inwards.

The 48/32 FSA MegaExo crankset is an odd thing, there only seems to be a 11 speed online, but the bike is Sora apart from the chainset/bb. Chainrings are hard to come by, so I've bought a Shimano BB and transferred the 46/34 Sora crankset from my CdF along with the 11-34 cassette.

Bottom brackets are an absolute pain to change. Who on earth designed the square taper tool interface? A tool that's guaranteed to keep slipping out unless you bodge something from the Heath Robinson bike maintenace manual.
Anyway, I finished it late last night, but didn't want to risk the ride to work on it, so I'll have to test ride it tonight.

Next up will be converting the CdF to Sora 3x

mrfpb said:

Finding my new Boardman ADV (bought Oct ast year) is wearing through parts very quickly. Replaced brake pads after 300 miles then realised that chain was also worn. Found when replacing the chain that the small chainring was bent inwards.

The 48/32 FSA MegaExo crankset is an odd thing, there only seems to be a 11 speed online, but the bike is Sora apart from the chainset/bb. Chainrings are hard to come by, so I've bought a Shimano BB and transferred the 46/34 Sora crankset from my CdF along with the 11-34 cassette.

Bottom brackets are an absolute pain to change. Who on earth designed the square taper tool interface? A tool that's guaranteed to keep slipping out unless you bodge something from the Heath Robinson bike maintenace manual.
Anyway, I finished it late last night, but didn't want to risk the ride to work on it, so I'll have to test ride it tonight.

Next up will be converting the CdF to Sora 3x

Are you using one of these?

Trimmed the donut holder off the CX bike. It's only taken two years to get rid of the excess 25mm.

New 110mm stem has arrived so tonight Mathew I'm going to be putting that on the single speed and putting the chunky 100mm from there on the CX.

The kid came home from college and asked if he could ride my old Colnago. First time out he discovered the pedals were shot. So I was forced to buy a new pair for my bike and pass the old down. Life is good.

Spent 15 minutes trying to dig out a hawthorn, well, thorn, from the front tyre - it was well jammed in. Makes me think I ought to take a set of pliers with me, was very glad I was doing it with a warm cup of tea next to me, rather than beside the road in sub zero temps.

Only noted it cos I went out to the shed to check the state of the batteries for my lights on sunday morning - would have been a rather unpleasant surprise if i'd not seen it till 6 am today.

itboffin said:

fettled the sh1te out of my wheelsets today, swapping cassettes across four sets of wheels ready for my 11s upgrade of the Scott.

Now i've found an amazing detailed video on how to setup a R8000 front mech and what all the mental screws are for, i'm almost ready to start cabling, but first to buy some gray outers to match the frame.

https://youtu.be/-3_EU4cccW4

Thanks for sharing the vid...I've got a new r8000 FD to go onto my Solace disc, as the original Ultegra mech with the longer arm moves very close to the tyre when fitted with 28-30mm tyres. Haven't been looking forward to fitting it as have had issues dialling in the original FD in the past. I should really get this fitted before the weather gets better and it starts getting more use than the 'mudguard bike'...the video will be handy!

Anyone know how the inline adjuster should be set before I attach the cable to the fixing bolt and start trimming the mech?

i'm waiting for a set of dura ace brake cables and gear outers to arrive before I continue the upgrade, fingers crossed it goes smoothly and my Scott is my goto bike.

I'm still considering my options on the CAAD12 upgrade, Chorus 11s with TRP mech disc brakes is okay but really if i'm using discs i'd like the same stopping power my SLX has, really the only benefit of mech disc is no rim wear.