Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

itboffin

so it turns out muc off dry ceramic lube is basically sticky grey thick crap the first time you ride even with a drivetrain that's been sonically cleaned before application.

pinno

I don't bother with the dry stuff, case you get caught in a rain shower and resulting puddles. I use the ceramic wet lube which is... basically sticky pink thick censored the first time you ride even with a drivetrain that's been sonically cleaned before application.

itboffin

Does anyone know which way up the rubber seals should go on the FSA Orbit MX headset file:///home/stephen/Downloads/135_no.20.pdf i just cant remove the play without making the steering too stiff.

denis992

Fitted my new Dura Ace R9100 mechanical rear derailler, replacing the Ultegra 6800 one. 37 grams lighter, better protected from damage, looks gorgeous, more chain tension. Very little difference in shift quality.

itboffin

itboffin said:

Does anyone know which way up the rubber seals should go on the FSA Orbit MX headset file:///home/stephen/Downloads/135_no.20.pdf i just cant remove the play without making the steering too stiff.

I emailed FSA and they replied swiftly the flat bit touches the bearings if anyone's interested

veronese68

itboffin said:

itboffin said:

Does anyone know which way up the rubber seals should go on the FSA Orbit MX headset file:///home/stephen/Downloads/135_no.20.pdf i just cant remove the play without making the steering too stiff.

I emailed FSA and they replied swiftly the flat bit touches the bearings if anyone's interested

At some point I may need to know that, I doubt I will remember the information or where it was

itboffin

I finally worked out why my R5 isn’t comfortable, it’s the look carbon blade pedals they’re the 12nm version and seem to hold my feet with almost no float like black cleats, also the UT Campagnolo from 2008 looks great but really doesn’t do it justice, do I swap my Campagnolo 11 chorus from the CAAD12 and upgrade that or really upgrade the Cervélo?

FreddieVonRost

So, finally tackled the brakes and fitted a new Selle saddle.

denis992

Just fitted the Dura Ace front derailleur, lighter (weight and action) and slightly better shift than the old Tiagra one. And looks stunning. Just need the matching crankset now...keep looking for a deal.

itboffin

I managed to strip the threads off one of my chainrings it went with a loud bang whilst powering on a steep downhill trying to catch a break, I thought my tyre had exploded it was so loud, anyway one of the threads is almost bare so I’m going to attempt to use an M8 .75 tap to repair it, has anyone else had to do this or a similar chainring repair?

itboffin

well my loctite bodge seems to be holding, 36 very hilly miles yesterday and no movement, fingers crossed.

Today i fitted a replacement axle on my rear (Novatec) Superstar icon wheel, swapped the tyre and cassette back and put it back on the winter bike i also replaced the front chainring in the process stripping another chainring bolt

Reindexed my MTB after a noisy chain rubbing ride, I guess the Rotor road/mtb BB i fitted isnt quite MTB friendly.

itboffin

oh and i took apart my look pedals greased and loctite, no more play and spinning when trying to clip back in

itboffin

Okay so i have a rotor 4124 press fit BB which comes in two parts but also with a third small washer thingy, what is that for?

itboffin

Look at the chain damage on this new in June cassette with a new KMC X11 chain, it’s carved link pin circle deep into the cassette, I’ve never seen anything like that before.

itboffin

Why can i not go for a MTB ride and not get a puncture, its frankly annoying now. Time to bin the conti tyres as i did on the road bikes.

Wheelspinner

itboffin said:

Why can i not go for a MTB ride and not get a puncture, its frankly annoying now. Time to bin the conti tyres as i did on the road bikes.

Same here. Local trail is now littered with big sharp thorns, and almost every ride I get a flat. Even tubeless doesn't work.

phil485

finished building a Cervelo P3 TT bike from ebay bits.

Now just got to work out what my position should be

itboffin

Wheelspinner said:

itboffin said:

Why can i not go for a MTB ride and not get a puncture, its frankly annoying now. Time to bin the conti tyres as i did on the road bikes.

Same here. Local trail is now littered with big sharp thorns, and almost every ride I get a flat. Even tubeless doesn't work.

Out on the road bike this morning bloody hedge cutting going on everywhere as i passed one of the fields several flying bits hit me in the face, surely they should be made to at least take a stab at brushing the mess off the roads?

mrfpb

Over the last week - HuntMason 650B wheels arrived. Fitted rotors (6 bolt using the supplied adapter) 9 speed 12-36 cassette fitted.
700 c wheels cleaden, hub cleaned, cassette thoroughly washed and put away in wheel bags (cheap as part of Hunt's discount offers.) Had to deflate the 38mm tyres to get them to fit in the bag though.

Hunt's had set up the wheels with G-one Bite 2.1" tubeless tyres, so that saved a bit of faff.

Had to replace the mudguards with SKS Velo 55's - a really easy guard to fit, and rattle free on a 4 mile test ride and a 13 mile commute.

Trp Spyre front brake replaced with a Hayes CX expert and adapter - much, much better. I'm now of the opinion that "recieved wisdom" on one piston v two piston is totally wrong (at least for mechanical discs) Hayes have never let me down in 7 years on my CdF, but the TRP's have been nothing but trouble for the whole year I've had them. I can't think of anyway that they are superior to the Hayes CX, apart from the black caliper matching my black fork.

Consequently I set a new pb on a segment called "eighty one foot drop" on my way to work this morning. My way of testing brake set up is to see if I can stop on the initial slope- both brakes need to be full power. If my brakes aren't perfect, I find I'm engaging them all the way down in order to stand a chance of slowing without using my feet when I get to the bend halfway down.

Just need to find another for the rear, then I'll be descending like a monster.

shirley_basso

After nearly crushing every carbon tube on my bike due to over torquing to stop some infernal clicking I have finally found the cause.

A lose screw in the base of each of my shoes - apparently for look cleats.

FFFFFFFFFFF

itboffin

Did the best hack/bodge last night completely unbike related but still worth sharing, I bought a thermal blind but the supplied mounting brackets flex too much for the pull cord too work, it came to me what it needs is a wedge between the bracket and wall, one champagne cork cut in half did the trick beautifully

itboffin

Not done it yet but I’m considering aero bars for the turbo to help further improve my position on the bike, getting lower each year for the last couple of years with less spacers but still not riding in the drops on the flat, it’s not uncomfortable in the drops I’m just no used to it, would riding in a more stretched position help me transition to the drop?

webboo

I doubt it, you are supported by your forearms/elbows when on aero bars. So quite it’s different. I would just practice when out, I find that riding sections when your riding in to head wind the most useful. I make myself ride to a point in the distance I can see or where I know the road changes direction.

itboffin

Ermmmm asking for a friend but how would you get loctite (green) out of the pedal axle bearing

veronese68

itboffin said:

Ermmmm asking for a friend but how would you get loctite (green) out of the pedal axle bearing

Solvent, the grease should have stopped it going off. You will also wash the grease out and need to get some back in there. Alternatively, ignore it as the grease should stop it going off

itboffin

Hmmm this silly “friend” may have tried that 🙄🤥

veronese68

Oh dear, you should ask this friend if he can replace the bearings then

kentphil

Converted my Caadx to 1 x10 gearing. More detail in the commuter workshop page.

mrfpb

Changed a choin on my ADV (main commuter). Put 35mm G one allround tyres on the ADV wheels which then went on my Genesis CdF. Put 30mm ice tyres on the Alex rims that came on the Genesis. The ADV currently has Hunt 650B wheels.

I couldn't get the 30mm ice tyres on the ADV wheels, which is why I had to sort out the wheels in that order.

Next up - sorting out the Sora front mech on the ADV, as it will no longer grip the cable, so I'm stuck in the low ring (34 tooth). The bolt won't tighten in the mech body, so I'm now wondering if a nut has been lost - that occurred to me when cycling to work, so will hopefully be able to check on my day off tomorrow.

N0bodyOfTheGoat

Finally got around to fitting the 35mm Marathon Supreme (that was ~£35 from Merlin, various sizes available, first time trying one of these "legendary" tourer tyres) to the rear of the Marasa. Few mm to inside of Beavertail XL mudguard, so glad I didn't risk the 40mm next size up as I doubt it would clear, even though I read these tyres do size a bit small.

Still wondering whether to stump up ~£40+ for a proper mounted mudguard, because the Beavertail XL seat tube clip further restricts tyre size over the horrid triple front mech design, that has a section that eats ~2cm into the gap behind the seat tube.
Without guards, a 50mm Schwalbe Century fits the rear, with a proper mounted guard there might be clearance for a ~45mm tyre.

Part of me fancies switching out the 38mm Gravdal ice tyre for a less draggy slick before hopefully going for a ride shortly, but with the subzero temps expected from Sunday for most of the next week, the switch seems a load of agro when I'll want the Gravdal back on for commuting duty from Monday morning.