Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

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  • redveeredvee Posts: 11,932
    After I cleaned the drivetrain last week I used some dry lube I picked up as samples from the ExCel show last February and already the chain is screaming at me to relube. Is this something common with dry lube or didn't I use enough originally. This is my first experience of dry lube.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • alexfthealexfthe Posts: 71
    redvee wrote:
    After I cleaned the drivetrain last week I used some dry lube I picked up as samples from the ExCel show last February and already the chain is screaming at me to relube. Is this something common with dry lube or didn't I use enough originally. This is my first experience of dry lube.

    My first was the Muc Off ceramic mentioned in the post above yours. Good for 100-200 miles in the dry. My second experience sounds like yours though: got caught in a downpour and washed out mid ride so stopped into a bike shop and bought the only dry lube they had: Rock n roll extreme. Only got 30ish miles per application out of that one so I’ll definitely not be buying again.

    Current plan is I’ve cleaned out one of the Mrs’ discarded vape liquid bottles and planning to fill it with the muc off stuff and keep in my saddle bag for emergency reapplications.

    (And how does one make a signature?)
    2018 Vitus Vitesse Evo CR Disc
    2019 Cannondale Synapse AL 105 SE Disc
    2017 Dawes Galaxy Plus
    2014 Boardman MTB Pro 29er HT
    2007 Trek 7.3FX FrankenPubBike
  • TGOTBTGOTB Posts: 4,828
    alexfthe wrote:
    (And how does one make a signature?)
    No idea
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • alexfthe wrote:
    Rock n roll extreme. Only got 30ish miles per application out of that one so I’ll definitely not be buying again.

    To be fair, I've used R&R Extreme and found it works pretty well, so long as you follow the instructions to the letter. Full degrease before applying and allow to dry overnight.
  • darkhairedlorddarkhairedlord Posts: 4,561
    alexfthe wrote:
    Rock n roll extreme. Only got 30ish miles per application out of that one so I’ll definitely not be buying again.

    To be fair, I've used R&R Extreme and found it works pretty well, so long as you follow the instructions to the letter. Full degrease before applying and allow to dry overnight.
    what is this "dry lube" so many speak of and why would anyone use it?
  • asprillaasprilla Posts: 8,350
    alexfthe wrote:
    Rock n roll extreme. Only got 30ish miles per application out of that one so I’ll definitely not be buying again.

    To be fair, I've used R&R Extreme and found it works pretty well, so long as you follow the instructions to the letter. Full degrease before applying and allow to dry overnight.
    what is this "dry lube" so many speak of and why would anyone use it?

    Wet lube tends to be oil which attracts road censored and swarf to make a sticky black mess. Dry lube tends to be waxy and although it still attracts all the crud it tends to come off with usage and so keeps your drive train cleaner.

    I use Muck-off C3. They do a wet and a dry version.
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • darkhairedlorddarkhairedlord Posts: 4,561
    asprilla wrote:
    alexfthe wrote:
    Rock n roll extreme. Only got 30ish miles per application out of that one so I’ll definitely not be buying again.

    To be fair, I've used R&R Extreme and found it works pretty well, so long as you follow the instructions to the letter. Full degrease before applying and allow to dry overnight.
    what is this "dry lube" so many speak of and why would anyone use it?

    Wet lube tends to be oil which attracts road censored and swarf to make a sticky black mess. Dry lube tends to be waxy and although it still attracts all the crud it tends to come off with usage and so keeps your drive train cleaner.

    I use Muck-off C3. They do a wet and a dry version.
    so its not to with use in dry weather and wet weather?
  • alexfthealexfthe Posts: 71
    asprilla wrote:
    alexfthe wrote:
    Rock n roll extreme. Only got 30ish miles per application out of that one so I’ll definitely not be buying again.

    To be fair, I've used R&R Extreme and found it works pretty well, so long as you follow the instructions to the letter. Full degrease before applying and allow to dry overnight.
    what is this "dry lube" so many speak of and why would anyone use it?

    Wet lube tends to be oil which attracts road censored and swarf to make a sticky black mess. Dry lube tends to be waxy and although it still attracts all the crud it tends to come off with usage and so keeps your drive train cleaner.

    I use Muck-off C3. They do a wet and a dry version.
    so its not to with use in dry weather and wet weather?

    Well it is, but the naming parallel is coincidence. Lubes are named for whether they stay on wet or dry, but that also just so happens to be the kind of conditions they're suited for. At least I think the logic goes that way round - I think now I might need to go have an existential crisis...
    2018 Vitus Vitesse Evo CR Disc
    2019 Cannondale Synapse AL 105 SE Disc
    2017 Dawes Galaxy Plus
    2014 Boardman MTB Pro 29er HT
    2007 Trek 7.3FX FrankenPubBike
  • alexfthealexfthe Posts: 71
    alexfthe wrote:
    Rock n roll extreme. Only got 30ish miles per application out of that one so I’ll definitely not be buying again.

    To be fair, I've used R&R Extreme and found it works pretty well, so long as you follow the instructions to the letter. Full degrease before applying and allow to dry overnight.

    Ah right - perhaps that's where I went wrong having applied after a mid-ride washout.
    2018 Vitus Vitesse Evo CR Disc
    2019 Cannondale Synapse AL 105 SE Disc
    2017 Dawes Galaxy Plus
    2014 Boardman MTB Pro 29er HT
    2007 Trek 7.3FX FrankenPubBike
  • redveeredvee Posts: 11,932
    R7000 hydro bits swapped onto the commute bike, only need to wrap the bars now to complete the process. When I say swapped, I took the fully working bled brakes off the better bike as they are working and ready to ride and the bike is ready to hit the road on Monday though I'll give it a quick spin Sunday if the weather is OK. Then set about putting the brand new R7000 kit onto the London Road.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • itboffinitboffin Posts: 19,409
    A bit of techno fettling by which i mean i've taken yesterday's flat out and back ride with video and am in the process of uploading the route to Rouvy for use on the turbo this winter.
    Rule #5 // Harden The censored Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • luv2rideluv2ride Posts: 2,305
    Does this count? Recently changed cars to one with a much lower roofline and "sportsback" style boot, but still wanted to carry a bike upright inside, and with at least one rear passenger occasionally. This is the bodge I came up with:
    20191013-160525.jpg
    The wood is attached to the isofix bracket on the back of the seat, using a bracket which loops over the tether bar and then cinched up with the wingnut...
    20191013-160502.jpg
    20191013-160441.jpg
    Already had the Saris 9mm QR "trap" but now doubled up with a Seasucker 12mm TA mount for the disc bike, so can carry either. Have to the remove the seatpost now, but otherwise I think that's "job jobbed"...
    Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose 1x11 "monster cross" - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • itboffinitboffin Posts: 19,409
    School boy error, just about to go for a ride and the garmin edge 820 pops up with an update is available message, i click install which it did, then reboots and gets stuck loading maps, i suspect due to me having custom OSM for Europe.

    I've had to factory reset several times and am now attempting to reinstall the stock maps, downloader says +2 hours to go!!!!
    Rule #5 // Harden The censored Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • itboffinitboffin Posts: 19,409
    what a ball ache that was, nearly three hours of resetting downgrades upgrades and then eventually having to set up all my data screens again grrrr
    Rule #5 // Harden The censored Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • luv2rideluv2ride Posts: 2,305
    Extra layer of tubeless tape on the front wheel of the gravel bike. The Gravel King SK has been regularly losing air week to week, maybe this'll sort it...just need to remember to add sealant for tomorrow (cant be arsed right now as the Talisker Skye is calling....)

    EDIT: nope, flat as a pancake again this morning despite the extra layer of rim tape :roll: Only been a slow depressurisation up to now, requiring frequent top ups with the track pump. Now losing air more quickly. One more try with sealant this time....bloody tubeless, nice when it works but....
    Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose 1x11 "monster cross" - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,286
    Fixed the failing flush in the downstairs khazi for a grand total of 0p. I made a new diaphragm out of a plastic folder I nicked from work. Satisfyingly positive feel to the flush action now, and many brownie points earned :D

    Close-coupled WC with cheap internals meant I had to take the bloody cistern off to remove the syphon and fix it; I'm guessing a plumber would've replaced rather than repairing the innards and charged us £75.

    So that's what I can now spend on bike stuff, no? ...
  • itboffinitboffin Posts: 19,409
    Adjusted the pad alignment on my rear trp mech disc brake, had to jam a credit card between to push the inside pad out, now there's 2mm equal gap each side but the lever pull is to much for my liking, it's been fun but I think it's time for proper disc shifters
    Rule #5 // Harden The censored Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • thistle_(mbnw)thistle_(mbnw) Posts: 2,743
    luv2ride wrote:
    This is the bodge I came up with:
    That looks neat. Might see if I can do something simlar for my car, although I don't have isofix points so I'll have to figure something else out.
    luv2ride wrote:
    Extra layer of tubeless tape on the front wheel of the gravel bike. The Gravel King SK has been regularly losing air week to week, maybe this'll sort it...just need to remember to add sealant for tomorrow (cant be arsed right now as the Talisker Skye is calling....)
    I was going to suggest it might be the tyre not the rim tape and stick more sealant in it. If you pump it up and dunk it in the bath it might at least locate the leak. I found my leak when I rode through a really big puddle and saw the bubbles coming out...
  • luv2rideluv2ride Posts: 2,305
    luv2ride wrote:
    This is the bodge I came up with:
    That looks neat. Might see if I can do something simlar for my car, although I don't have isofix points so I'll have to figure something else out.
    luv2ride wrote:
    Extra layer of tubeless tape on the front wheel of the gravel bike. The Gravel King SK has been regularly losing air week to week, maybe this'll sort it...just need to remember to add sealant for tomorrow (cant be arsed right now as the Talisker Skye is calling....)
    I was going to suggest it might be the tyre not the rim tape and stick more sealant in it. If you pump it up and dunk it in the bath it might at least locate the leak. I found my leak when I rode through a really big puddle and saw the bubbles coming out...
    Cheers thistle. Much prefer the security of carrying the bike inside the car. I've noticed the bar in the IsoFix fixing is plastic (swear the previous car had a metal fixing), so might revert to strapping the board to the back of the seat, either instead of, or as well as....

    The tubeless front tyre stayed up on my gravel ride ride today, so looks to be ok for now. Highlight was coming across an Adder basking in the afternoon sun (or perhaps a grass snake!)
    Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose 1x11 "monster cross" - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • kirkeekirkee Posts: 369
    i put some Stans sealant in front and rear inner tubes- had puncture in front so enlarged hole carefully in innertube and injected 40 - 50mm stans in with syringe end no needle. Bunged up innertube hole with a peice of tubeless censored repair bung. The rear had a removable valve core so was easier. Holding 60psi in front and seen some sealant weep out of rear aswell so must've had a slow puncture there unbeknown. I should be puncture resistant now in/out of work, no brainer to at least give a go as Stans so effective on my mtb tubless set up. Im running 26 x 1.5 semi slicks on commuter, didnt want faff of going full on tubless with commuter.
    Caveat - I buy and ride cheap, however, I reserve the right to advise on expensive kit that I have never actually used and possibly never will
  • wolfsbane2kwolfsbane2k Posts: 2,845
    The quickest and least effective of chain clean - A quick squirt of GT85 while spinning the cranks, a wipe with a microfiber cloth, followed by a re-grease with muc-off wet.

    I've really got to get something more suitable that the grey gunk inducing muc off.
    Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
    Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
  • luv2rideluv2ride Posts: 2,305
    Replaced the Sram Apex 1 42t chainset with 40t version. Planned fitting of some flared bars will have to wait as have worked out I probably can't reuse the bar tape, so need to get some fresh tape. Lizard Skins DSP on sale at CRC so may grab some...
    Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose 1x11 "monster cross" - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • redveeredvee Posts: 11,932
    Fitted my free Hope 11sp freehub to the wheel with an old 10sp freehub. It was a freebie cause HJope gave me the wrong advice and I bought the wrong 11sp freehub so once they figured out which hub I had they sent the correct freehub FOC :D
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • redveeredvee Posts: 11,932
    Fitted my free Hope 11sp freehub to the wheel with an old 10sp freehub. It was a freebie cause HJope gave me the wrong advice and I bought the wrong 11sp freehub so once they figured out which hub I had they sent the correct freehub FOC :D
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • redveeredvee Posts: 11,932
    Took said wheel out for a spin Thursday and glad I did before the commute on Friday as it was draggy as hell with no freewheel action from the freehub. Once back home took the new freehub off and turned the seal round and now have a freehub that lives upto it's name.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • itboffinitboffin Posts: 19,409
    Someone remind me, if you're falling forward with full weight on your hands but the saddle height and distance to bar is spot on, what else could I be missing?
    Rule #5 // Harden The censored Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • nitrousoxidenitrousoxide Posts: 3,825
    itboffin said:

    Someone remind me, if you're falling forward with full weight on your hands but the saddle height and distance to bar is spot on, what else could I be missing?

    Saddle too far forward on rails?
    ================
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • 6wheels6wheels Posts: 397

    itboffin said:

    Someone remind me, if you're falling forward with full weight on your hands but the saddle height and distance to bar is spot on, what else could I be missing?

    Saddle too far forward on rails?
    Setback is important as mentioned above, getting that torso balanced is described here...

    https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/05/seat-set-back-for-road-bikes/
  • itboffinitboffin Posts: 19,409
    Yeah figured as much its been ages since i rode that bike at any speed, i need a shorter stem, lighter forks and a serious look at why it weights +11KG
    Rule #5 // Harden The censored Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • itboffinitboffin Posts: 19,409


    alrighty then, said bike now weights 9.3KG, new stem and possibly some carbon forks and i might put the 105 5700 groupset on if i can confirm its total weight over the current 105 5600
    Rule #5 // Harden The censored Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
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