Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

UndercoverElephant

Rear mech tuning, made simple:

If it's slower going into a smaller sprocket than into a bigger one - quarter turn clockwise.
If it's slower going into a bigger sprocket than a smaller one - quarter turn anti-clockwise.
Repeat until perfect.

veronese68

I always set the high/low adjusters before joining the cable. That way you are not slackening the cable if you have to unwind the high adjuster. Not such an issue with the low.

rower63

Veronese68 wrote:

I always set the high/low adjusters before joining the cable. That way you are not slackening the cable if you have to unwind the high adjuster. Not such an issue with the low.

I'm not sure it's a good idea to change those high/low grub-screws while they are "in contact". You're then trying to turn them "under load", and you'll easily either strip the thread or damage the screwdriver slots. They must be adjusted when the chain is somewhere in between, ie not in contact with them. Same goes for the FD screws.

veronese68

Completely agree, I occasionally a little tweek to check I'm on the right screw and it feels wrong. Take the tension off the screw by pushing the derailleur with your thumb.

bendertherobot

Removed and binned GXP BB.

But, before that, removed chain, of course. Nice wipe down. Sitting ready for..........

New chainset. Apex.

But, before I could do that, had to remove the old one. It's mank. Nasty moment when the allen key rounded the extracting bolt. Hunted down a better allen key. Got it off. The extracting bolt is screwed. AH well, new chainset time anway.

redvee

Repaired the 12 tubes that have been on he floor behind the bike for the last 6+ months, only patched them so far. Will check the tubes for other leaks over the weekend when I have my monthly bath on Sunday

bigmonka

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Rear mech tuning, made simple:

If it's slower going into a smaller sprocket than into a bigger one - quarter turn clockwise.
If it's slower going into a bigger sprocket than a smaller one - quarter turn anti-clockwise.
Repeat until perfect.

I've been trying this but I can't get it shifting smoothly in both direction
I set it so that it just shifts on to the bigger cogs but even set like that its not shifting back on to the smaller cogs well. Do the springs in the derailleur lose their stiffness over time?

meanredspider

BigMonka wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Rear mech tuning, made simple:

If it's slower going into a smaller sprocket than into a bigger one - quarter turn clockwise.
If it's slower going into a bigger sprocket than a smaller one - quarter turn anti-clockwise.
Repeat until perfect.

I've been trying this but I can't get it shifting smoothly in both direction
I set it so that it just shifts on to the bigger cogs but even set like that its not shifting back on to the smaller cogs well. Do the springs in the derailleur lose their stiffness over time?

Might be worth checking hanger alignment and the freeness of cable

gbsahne001

UndercoverElephant wrote:

gbsahne wrote:

Unfortunately during the process Mrs GB comes along and asks how much the wheel cost, she caught me unaware and I told her the true cost.

You did what???!?!?!

I know, she thinks that £70 for a wheel is expensive....so the £100 I told her this wheel cost was a bit of a shock.

UndercoverElephant

meanredspider wrote:

BigMonka wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Rear mech tuning, made simple:

If it's slower going into a smaller sprocket than into a bigger one - quarter turn clockwise.
If it's slower going into a bigger sprocket than a smaller one - quarter turn anti-clockwise.
Repeat until perfect.

I've been trying this but I can't get it shifting smoothly in both direction
I set it so that it just shifts on to the bigger cogs but even set like that its not shifting back on to the smaller cogs well. Do the springs in the derailleur lose their stiffness over time?

Might be worth checking hanger alignment and the freeness of cable

Yep, if you look at the rear mech from the back of your bike, the selected cog and both jockey wheels should be exactly in a vertical line. If the jockey wheels go off at a slight angle, you'll need to get a new hanger (or bend the old one back a bit ) or even a new rear mech if the cage has bent.

If not, then as MRS says, it sounds like you're cable is bunged up. New cables required.

bigmonka

meanredspider wrote:

BigMonka wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Rear mech tuning, made simple:

If it's slower going into a smaller sprocket than into a bigger one - quarter turn clockwise.
If it's slower going into a bigger sprocket than a smaller one - quarter turn anti-clockwise.
Repeat until perfect.

I've been trying this but I can't get it shifting smoothly in both direction
I set it so that it just shifts on to the bigger cogs but even set like that its not shifting back on to the smaller cogs well. Do the springs in the derailleur lose their stiffness over time?

Might be worth checking hanger alignment and the freeness of cable

It's a new cable so that shouldn't be an issue but the hanger alignment could well be, especially as we've got those stupid little wheel bender bike racks at work. Should it hang completely vertical?

UndercoverElephant

Ideally yes, but nearby is usually good enough.

meanredspider

I should add that they should be aligned in the entire plane (ie when looked at from behind and above/below). I recently sorted mine after starting to get a hesitant change on my Di2. It was ok vertically but twisted. A hanger tool sorted it (though a new hanger is cheaper ). The shift is now sweet as a Swiss watch 8)

dyrlac

Further to my message in the SCR thread, does anyone think full 105 (5800) is too fancy for a wet weather and/or lazy day winter commuter that will also serve a tour in Flanders in 5 weeks time? Am frankly bored of struggling with getting the Sora (3500) to shift sweetly--have done everything short of changing the shifter (cables, hanger, cassette, chain, adjusters, etc and so forth), and prices for individual shifters aren't that much less than just swapping the entire groupset. I would miss the gear indicator though. :oops:

meanredspider

Not at all too fancy - I've never commuted on anything less (well, that's not quite true - my first ever commute was a few months on a 1-tonne BSO from Costco whilst my bro was on a mega-bucks Trek OCLV MTB - wow, was I fit after that). Commuting can be enough of a faff in the winter months without bike aggro - "sod the expense, you know it makes sense..."

rower63

BigMonka wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

BigMonka wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Rear mech tuning, made simple:
If it's slower going into a smaller sprocket than into a bigger one - quarter turn clockwise.
If it's slower going into a bigger sprocket than a smaller one - quarter turn anti-clockwise.
Repeat until perfect.

I've been trying this but I can't get it shifting smoothly in both direction
I set it so that it just shifts on to the bigger cogs but even set like that its not shifting back on to the smaller cogs well. Do the springs in the derailleur lose their stiffness over time?

Might be worth checking hanger alignment and the freeness of cable

It's a new cable so that shouldn't be an issue but the hanger alignment could well be, especially as we've got those stupid little wheel bender bike racks at work. Should it hang completely vertical?

The other thing to bear in mind is that even with indexing set up theoretically correctly and cage aligned, there are myriad reasons for poor shifting, many of which involve friction in the mechanisms between shifter and derailleur cage from various causes: worn-out and crud-filled cable-guide-casings, rusty or dirty cables, too-tight bends in cables or guides, badly-lubricated, dirty or contaminated derailleur mechs, same issues inside the shifter, dirty or rough BB cable guide, shot bearings in jockey-wheels ...

bendertherobot

bendertherobot wrote:

Removed and binned GXP BB.

But, before that, removed chain, of course. Nice wipe down. Sitting ready for..........

New chainset. Apex.

But, before I could do that, had to remove the old one. It's mank. Nasty moment when the allen key rounded the extracting bolt. Hunted down a better allen key. Got it off. The extracting bolt is screwed. AH well, new chainset time anway.

New BB on

New crankset on

Pedals cleaned and greased and reinstalled

Rear wheel off, cleaned.

Mudguards scraped of crap, cleaned.

Wheel back on.

Chain back on.

Not shifting properly. Front and back. Cos I've been tinkering with limit screws.

Chain off.

All limit screws sorted.

Chain on.

Shifting like a beaut. May need to look again at the front mech mind. Rubbing on small ring in higher gears. Fine for commute. Not fine for CX........

pastryboy

New wheels/tyres/cassette/chainrings on commuting bike 2 but noticed jockey wheels have gone all pointy so had to order some. Jockey wheels cost almost as much as the whole derailleur.

UndercoverElephant

pastryboy wrote:

New wheels/tyres/cassette/chainrings on commuting bike 2 but noticed jockey wheels have gone all pointy so had to order some. Jockey wheels cost almost as much as the whole derailleur.

I just bought some Tacx ones with real bearings (rather than the crud-filled bushes) for £7.95. How the hell cheap is your rear mech?

ugo.santalucia

Botched an old bike computer with nylon cables... I need to have a clue of where I am at Gent-Wevelgem if I want to plan a cunning attack

itboffin

About 40 miles into my ride yesterday my rear mech started shifting really roughly, one quarter turn on the barrel adjust and it was back but why should it do that mid ride?
Its not like there's any cable stretch, perhaps I didn't tighten the cables up enough when I clean the drivetrain last weekend, that or I need a new bike.

rower63

ugo.santalucia wrote:

Botched an old bike computer with nylon cables... I need to have a clue of where I am at Gent-Wevelgem if I want to plan a cunning attack

want to borrow my spare Garmin 800?

ugo.santalucia

rower63 wrote:

ugo.santalucia wrote:

Botched an old bike computer with nylon cables... I need to have a clue of where I am at Gent-Wevelgem if I want to plan a cunning attack

want to borrow my spare Garmin 800?

Very kind of you, thanks.. but it's too much technology for me... I've never used a smart phone in my life... :oops: I just need something to tell me how far I've gone and how fast I am going... it's a good little computer, problem is the mount is broken so I had to botch it with nylon cables... it'll be fine

roger_merriman

I ride to work, in normal clothes since it's genrally short and would take me longer to change than the commute, etc.

the chain guard on the old MTB disintegrated a while back so it's been eating my trousers, got a halfords chain guard which which though doesn't fit as intended, does with cable ties, got to love cable ties hopefully the bike will stop eating my trouser leg...

itboffin

I need to find a way to fit a 28 tyre to the front of my Ribble 7005, these Hampshire roads are killing my arm.

It should be just a case of swapping out the fork, perhaps that would also be time to fit a front disk brake.

timothyw

I make no promises of compatibility, but Planet X are selling old Kaffenback forks for £20:
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FOPXKV2/pl ... -2011-fork

menthel

Fiddled with the angle of my cambium last night. Much more comfy this morning- no more pressure on the barse!

GiantDance

Raised my seat post quarter inch, no more left knee pain today.

bendertherobot

Tonight I shall remove mudguards and put Vittoria Randonneurs back on. High pressure on way, very decent dry spell in prospect.

Wheelspinner

Re-installing gearing on the (road) SS for a while, so:

- Installed cable stops fitting on downtube
- Replaced chain ring with the original 53/39 combo
- Fitted derailleurs
- Flipped frame upside down to fit the BB cable guide, aaaaaaand the cursing begins.

I removed the original one a few years ago when conversion done, and carefully filed the guide and its associated fixing bolt in the tool box, didn't I? NOT. :x :x

No worries, I've got a spare one, new. Except the mounting hole in the BB shell is huge, and the standard ones are nowhere near suitable, and I will now have to bodge a fix if I can find an appropriate bolt to cut down. :roll: