Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

rower63

not strictly What Fettling I've Just Done, but most likely what I'm about to have to do...
FD shifter is spontaneously clicking and the FD is shifting slightly, on the highest-tension setting, causing chain to rub a bit on outside of cage. I have a feeling it's fraying at the nipple. Question is whether it'll survive just one more 19-mile journey home tonight...

keyser__soze

Annoying squeaking sound from rear hub was tracked down to a seized bearing so replaced with new one ordered from Wych and delivered in double-quick time. Knocked out old one with screwdriver/hammer and pressed new one in with assistance of some random bolt/nuts I had knocking around. Wheel feels so much better.

meanredspider

Aligned my rear hanger. Been meaning to do it for ages since I fell off in the summer. Noticed that the Di2 shift was not as sweet. Anyhow, I was not surprised to find it was quite a way out. All sorted now.

itboffin

rower63 wrote:

not strictly What Fettling I've Just Done, but most likely what I'm about to have to do...
FD shifter is spontaneously clicking and the FD is shifting slightly, on the highest-tension setting, causing chain to rub a bit on outside of cage. I have a feeling it's fraying at the nipple. Question is whether it'll survive just one more 19-mile journey home tonight...

nothing for it, new bike!

keyser__soze

itboffin wrote:

rower63 wrote:

FD shifter is spontaneously clicking and the FD is shifting slightly, on the highest-tension setting... Question is whether it'll survive just one more 19-mile journey home tonight...

nothing for it, new bike!

Either that or spin like a loon (aka TGOTB ) in the inner ring

itboffin

Oh according to my email my new rear mech has arrived I guess I'd better fit that and take it for a spin tomorrow.

Gulp!

redvee

Fitted the rear mudguard to the Tricross and whilst the bike was being fettled I cleaned the drivetrain, shiny gold chain and silver chainring.

itboffin

Took my campag equipped carbon Ribble for a brutal 40 miles this morning and as a reward for yet another faultless performance from the bike, I gave the drivetrains a full strip down part by part clean and boy was the rear mech gunked up, I'm surprised it could even work in that state.

Also the Ultegra rear mech is 40g lighter looks better on the Scotts grey frame and shifts like a dream, come to think of it I've always had Ultegra rear mechs on my 105 set ups.

meanredspider

meanredspider wrote:

Aligned my rear hanger. Been meaning to do it for ages since I fell off in the summer. Noticed that the Di2 shift was not as sweet. Anyhow, I was not surprised to find it was quite a way out. All sorted now.

Took it out for 40k - it's so nice now. Wish I'd sorted it sooner.

Kieran_Burns

Started to take the bike outside for a proper clean... saw the weather. Drinking coffee instead

menthel

Swapped out the pro4 service course tyres on the Italia for some gatorskins. I didn't want to but the SCs won't survive the commuting duties that the italia will have to take up. The gators have about 3000km on them from previous use so will see how they fare on the commute. I have pro4 endurance in the shed ready for action...

oldbazza

Re set up the levers on the helium(again) and checked the wear on the icarus(needs a new one);also gave the trek hack a quick rub down.
Rest of the day spent 'fettling' the garden.

seajays

I changed my disc brake pads for the first time on Sunday! Now have silent brakes. Still not entirely sure I have worked out the whole spacing adjustment thing though. I've got everything perfect near the disks and centered in the caliper, but to do so I seem to have had to adjust everything pretty tight in order to get the pads close to the disc, which doesn't leave a lot of additional room to move it in as the pads wear. (Clarks CMD-11)

veronese68

Bought CJCP's old MTB back off a friend as he'd fitted discs to it. Stole the wheels and brakes off it and put V brakes back on it. Built up my old Pinnacle MTB frame with aforementioned wheels and brakes and bits from the spares supply ready for sale. Two complete bike assembled and ready for sale to get some space back in my garage*. One sold already but not yet gone, one gone pending approval and payment.

*London Red commented on how many bikes were in the garage within earshot of SWMBO. I had to do some fast talking.

Kieran_Burns

Veronese68 wrote:

Bought CJCP's old MTB back off a friend as he'd fitted discs to it. Stole the wheels and brakes off it and put V brakes back on it. Built up my old Pinnacle MTB frame with aforementioned wheels and brakes and bits from the spares supply ready for sale. Two complete bike assembled and ready for sale to get some space back in my garage*. One sold already but not yet gone, one gone pending approval and payment.

*London Red commented on how many bikes were in the garage within earshot of SWMBO. I had to do some fast talking.

That would be "shutupshutupshutupshutup!"

gingaman

I decided to strip my rear hub over the weekend, as it was feeling and sounding quite gritty. I hadn't done it before so it was a nice learning experience. I only had to pop to the LBS twice
It was absolutely filthy inside the hub, this is what I found when I removed the drive side cone:
:oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

Lessons learned:
1. Regular maintenance is much better than irregular.
2. It's actually easier than you think to service your bike.
3. It helps to have the proper tools before starting the service.
4. I need cone spanners

rower63

Keyser__Soze wrote:

itboffin wrote:

rower63 wrote:

FD shifter is spontaneously clicking and the FD is shifting slightly, on the highest-tension setting... Question is whether it'll survive just one more 19-mile journey home tonight...

nothing for it, new bike!

Either that or spin like a loon (aka TGOTB ) in the inner ring

Nothing wrong at all with FD cable - must've been a piece of crud on the adjustment stop preventing it from making its full way across. Got a spare cable now.

bendertherobot

Undid FD bolt.

Grabbed cable.

Pulled cable tight.

Did up FD bolt.

Changes nicely between rings now 8)

Kieran_Burns

bendertherobot wrote:

Undid FD bolt.

Grabbed cable.

Pulled cable tight.

Did up FD bolt.

Changes nicely between rings now 8)

Several people will need to change this to:

Undid FD bolt.

Grabbed cable.

Pulled cable tight.

Did up FD bolt.

Undid FD bolt

Change FD shifter to inner ring setting

Pulled cable tight

Did up FD bolt

Changes nicely between rings now 8)

Manc33

Slapped on a KMC chain, christened it with some lovely road grit tonight. Give nice fast gear shifts, which was all I wanted it to do.

gingaman

Did you use a powerlink?

daddy0

Last night fettle: changed tyres and cassette from worn out Fulcrum Racing 5s to cheapo Shimano R500 wheels. Cleaned bike.

This mornings fettle - adjust RD, couldn't get it perfect but running late for work so chucked some oil on the chain and off I go.

Half way to work (over 20km still to go) - cassette lock ring gives up the ghost - gears turn into box of spanners. Journey home will be fun.

bigmonka

Last weekend I changed my tyres, fitted a new cassette, new KMC chain (first time using a chain with a disconnectable link, I'm hoping it'll make cleaning easier), new rear derailleur cable.
I haven't been very successful getting the gear indexing working though :-( I think the high and low adjustments are correct but its not indexing properly between.

Kieran_Burns

BigMonka wrote:

Last weekend I changed my tyres, fitted a new cassette, new KMC chain (first time using a chain with a disconnectable link, I'm hoping it'll make cleaning easier), new rear derailleur cable.
I haven't been very successful getting the gear indexing working though :-( I think the high and low adjustments are correct but its not indexing properly between.

Drop it to the smallest cog and wind adjuster back until the cable is JUST tight, click up one gear and it should be quiet but generally there'll be a slight rough feel or a bit of noise. Adjust carefully until it is just quiet.

You should set your high adjuster screw after you've nailed the indexing.

bigmonka

Kieran_Burns wrote:

BigMonka wrote:

Last weekend I changed my tyres, fitted a new cassette, new KMC chain (first time using a chain with a disconnectable link, I'm hoping it'll make cleaning easier), new rear derailleur cable.
I haven't been very successful getting the gear indexing working though :-( I think the high and low adjustments are correct but its not indexing properly between.

Drop it to the smallest cog and wind adjuster back until the cable is JUST tight, click up one gear and it should be quiet but generally there'll be a slight rough feel or a bit of noise. Adjust carefully until it is just quiet.

You should set your high adjuster screw after you've nailed the indexing.

Thanks bud, I've got adjusters on the shifter and at the rear mech so which one should I be using - and am I turning them clockwise or anticlockwise?!

Kieran_Burns

I prefer to use the rear mech - and it depends Clockwise will tighten the cable. To be honest I learned by simply dropping it to the smallest cog and having a play But the cable does need to be *just* tight. I use the next gear up to indicate whether I've gone too far or not enough

gbsahne001

Replaced the cones on an XT hub, serviced, put back together and it feels good.

Unfortunately during the process Mrs GB comes along and asks how much the wheel cost, she caught me unaware and I told her the true cost; cue exclamations of " how much ".......just as well I wasn't on the good bike with the really nice wheels.

Manc33

gingaman wrote:

Did you use a powerlink?

Sorry, thats classified.

UndercoverElephant

gbsahne wrote:

Unfortunately during the process Mrs GB comes along and asks how much the wheel cost, she caught me unaware and I told her the true cost.

You did what???!?!?!

Please god she doesn't know my wife.

rower63

BigMonka wrote:

Kieran_Burns wrote:

BigMonka wrote:

Last weekend I changed my tyres, fitted a new cassette, new KMC chain (first time using a chain with a disconnectable link, I'm hoping it'll make cleaning easier), new rear derailleur cable.
I haven't been very successful getting the gear indexing working though :-( I think the high and low adjustments are correct but its not indexing properly between.

Drop it to the smallest cog and wind adjuster back until the cable is JUST tight, click up one gear and it should be quiet but generally there'll be a slight rough feel or a bit of noise. Adjust carefully until it is just quiet.

You should set your high adjuster screw after you've nailed the indexing.

Thanks bud, I've got adjusters on the shifter and at the rear mech so which one should I be using - and am I turning them clockwise or anticlockwise?!

Adjusting either is fine, all they're doing is finely changing the length of the bit of cable-guide-casing they're sitting on. The longer the casing, the higher the tension in the cable, and higher cable-tension (for the RD) corresponds to bigger rear sprocket ("climbing up the sprockets"). So think through which way the thread is going for whichever adjuster you're using, and work out whether that thread is increasing or decreasing the effective length of the relevant bit of cable-guide. It took me a bit of thought to work it out initially, now it's intuitive.
The other thing to think through is what is the cable tension actually doing? It's pulling from lowest/no tension = smallest sprocket, to higher and higher tensions = bigger sprockets. So, as KB has suggested above, set it up so that it's just not slack with the chain on the smallest cog (by pulling on cable with fingers before fixing to RD), clamp the cable to the RD, and then use the RD- or barrel-adjusters to increase tension from there until the first click on the levers shifts it up one cog. Fine-tune from there.
Also remember that the high/low adjustments are totally independent of the tension-adjusters. Set these after everything else is fine.