Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

secretsam

Kieran_Burns wrote:

This one is for us ham-fisted idiots who spend our days looking for pinging bits in the cobweb infested corners of the garage.

Or, in my case, shortening a chain and causing catastrophic damage to a rear wheel...now fixed!!!!!

Red steelie about to get bar tape and new tyres (Gatorskins) before being used in anger as part of training regime

keyser__soze

Front Ksyrium rubbing in the bad weather again, yet more grit got in behind the hub cover through the spoke holes. Took it apart once I got to work, cleaned out any gunk and it's smooth as butter again. Finding I'm having to do this every other ride in the wet, wondering if I've worn down a seal/lip or something on the hub cover...

tgotb

ugo.santalucia wrote:

Then if you have the answer already, buy the Gatorskin. I was just reporting my experience, as requested

Have a look back up the thread. I didn't request anything at all; I merely commented that I was toying with replacing my dead GP4S with a Gatorskin :roll:

@KB - I have considered buying a cheap metal detector to use in my garage. Only issue is that I'd get too many false positives from all the pawls, bolts etc that I've lost previously and have now written off...

vimfuego

Come now - you know mentioning a Gatorskin is like a red rag to a bull.....

secretsam

vimfuego wrote:

Come now - you know mentioning a Gatorskin is like a red rag to a bull.....

Gatorskin, Gatorskin, GATORSKIN!!!!

rower63

Keyser__Soze wrote:

...Finding I'm having to do this every other ride in the wet, wondering if I've worn down a seal/lip or something on the hub cover...

I'm finding that there's more salt-mud-grit pebbledash when I get to my bike in the evening after a wet ride once it's dried than ever I can remember. Perhaps councils are trying to empty their vats of salt and grit before Spring, or just more sensitive to the possibility of accusations of being unprepared for the wrong type of ice.

ShandyH

rower63 wrote:

Keyser__Soze wrote:

...Finding I'm having to do this every other ride in the wet, wondering if I've worn down a seal/lip or something on the hub cover...

I'm finding that there's more salt-mud-grit pebbledash when I get to my bike in the evening after a wet ride once it's dried than ever I can remember. Perhaps councils are trying to empty their vats of salt and grit before Spring, or just more sensitive to the possibility of accusations of being unprepared for the wrong type of ice.

Agreed on that. The amount of general gunk and grime on the road is as bad as I can remember. Multiple punctures from tiny bits of grit before switching out what transpired to be threadbare tyres. A lot of this seems to be from building works at various points on my commute.

Also had the same issues as KS with my rear Ksyrium so perhaps there is a design flaw there. Although I've swapped them out now for Ugo's winter wheels which, despite taking a beating, are still going strong. 8)

keyser__soze

rower63 wrote:

I'm finding that there's more salt-mud-grit pebbledash when I get to my bike in the evening after a wet ride once it's dried than ever I can remember.

I haven't found it any worse than normal, just disappointed it all manages to get its way into the hub in under 5 miles and create such a horrid drag/noise, necessitating unscrewing them and cleaning all the damned time. There're pretty big holes where the spokes meet the hub body where I believe the crap is getting through. Seems a common issue. Haven't had this issue with any of the other wheelsets I've used.

ugo.santalucia

Fitted a TRP HYRD front caliper "laced to" Campagnolo lever... long throw, but being self adjusting it should be fine. Feels nice to squeeze

veronese68

I'll have to have a squeeze, wonder how it compares to the Parabox. Should sell my BB7s.

meanredspider

Yes - after a false start with a faulty first gen HyRd (the Alpe wasn't the best place to discover this), I'm very happy with the one I use on the front.

ugo.santalucia

meanredspider wrote:

Yes - after a false start with a faulty first gen HyRd (the Alpe wasn't the best place to discover this), I'm very happy with the one I use on the front.

I would prefer a shorter travel, but as I understand it's either a long travel, or no pads adjustment as the piston won't refill... so long throw is... it seems a well made calliper (or maybe it's just the posh box it came in)...

meanredspider

ugo.santalucia wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

Yes - after a false start with a faulty first gen HyRd (the Alpe wasn't the best place to discover this), I'm very happy with the one I use on the front.

I would prefer a shorter travel, but as I understand it's either a long travel, or no pads adjustment as the piston won't refill... so long throw is... it seems a well made calliper (or maybe it's just the posh box it came in)...

Yes - it's really important that the caliper lever is set up with the pin in place. I actually like a long stroke (ooer missus). My LBS got that wrong when I asked them to give the bike a once-over before AD6 in case I'd missed anything. As it was, even adjusted properly, the first gen caliper didn't compensate for pad wear so, by the bottom of each Alpe descent, I was out of front brake. TRP swapped it immediately (bit pi55ed off that it wasn't a recall). The HyRd has certainly postponed my change to full hydraulic - I just can't justify it. I'm using Gore Ride-On cables.

First.Aspect

I've just upgraded to fully hydraulic. I know you appreciate good engineering MRS, so it you can justify it, you should give it a go.

I've had mechanical discs and then a Hope converter box. It was fine, the Hope, and when set up right it was better by some way than mechanical discs. The Shimano ones are just a huge step above that, though. Its like having a new bike.

And they don't make a bike look like a bat mobile, like those Sram levers which are about 50% more expensive.

You'd be di2 I guess, but you'd probably even appreciate the packaging of the mechanical shifting. I have to hand it to shimano, you can qibble about the aesthetics of their drivetrain stuff, but it really does work very well.

redvee

Started putting the calliper and cable on the DC37 forks I picked up today and realised I now have to go with proper mudguards cause the RoadRacers won't fit due to the calliper so off to Evans tomorrow.

meanredspider

First Aspect wrote:

I've just upgraded to fully hydraulic. I know you appreciate good engineering MRS, so it you can justify it, you should give it a go.

I've had mechanical discs and then a Hope converter box. It was fine, the Hope, and when set up right it was better by some way than mechanical discs. The Shimano ones are just a huge step above that, though. Its like having a new bike.

And they don't make a bike look like a bat mobile, like those Sram levers which are about 50% more expensive.

You'd be di2 I guess, but you'd probably even appreciate the packaging of the mechanical shifting. I have to hand it to shimano, you can qibble about the aesthetics of their drivetrain stuff, but it really does work very well.

Thanks, FA - I really didn't want to hear any of that....

First.Aspect

meanredspider wrote:

First Aspect wrote:

I've just upgraded to fully hydraulic. I know you appreciate good engineering MRS, so it you can justify it, you should give it a go.

I've had mechanical discs and then a Hope converter box. It was fine, the Hope, and when set up right it was better by some way than mechanical discs. The Shimano ones are just a huge step above that, though. Its like having a new bike.

And they don't make a bike look like a bat mobile, like those Sram levers which are about 50% more expensive.

You'd be di2 I guess, but you'd probably even appreciate the packaging of the mechanical shifting. I have to hand it to shimano, you can qibble about the aesthetics of their drivetrain stuff, but it really does work very well.

Thanks, FA - I really didn't want to hear any of that....

Totally overpriced. Can't tell the difference from drum brakes. Same goes for the gears. A Sturmey Archer 3 speed is all you need.

veronese68

First Aspect wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

Thanks, FA - I really didn't want to hear any of that....

Totally overpriced. Can't tell the difference from drum brakes. Same goes for the gears. A Sturmey Archer 3 speed is all you need.

That's better. TRP Parabox is much better than the BB7s, which were excellent. But it is ugly. To go full hydraulic I'd also have to go 11speed so going drum brakes and 3 speed does sound a lot more palatable.

sloppyschleckonds

Mudguards off today, then fitted budget carbon tubs to winter bike. Beautiful ride in the sunshine after

ugo.santalucia

HyRD is good...
Was a bit frosty on the Oxfordshire lanes, so I had to go easy on the brakes... better modulation and better feel than the mechanical

First.Aspect

Veronese68 wrote:

First Aspect wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

Thanks, FA - I really didn't want to hear any of that....

Totally overpriced. Can't tell the difference from drum brakes. Same goes for the gears. A Sturmey Archer 3 speed is all you need.

That's better. TRP Parabox is much better than the BB7s, which were excellent. But it is ugly. To go full hydraulic I'd also have to go 11speed so going drum brakes and 3 speed does sound a lot more palatable.

You need 11 speed deraileurs (not that expensive, in comparison to the shifters), but you can manage with 10 speed wheels and crankset. I've just taken the 18T out of the cassette. Shifts fine.

redvee

Took the Dremmel to an old Trans-X tool, got rid of the allen keys and kept the bottle opener and ground the phillips bit to a point for those rare PF visits when the need to remove thorns etc from the tyre arises.

Kieran_Burns

Praxis kit fitted (properly)
Crank replaced (correct amount of grease used to fit)
New chain fitted (powerlink actually facing the right way)
Disc brakes adjusted, we're talking pitching over the handlebars close now, way easier to do the rear brake when the chain is not on.
Mudguards adjusted and I stumbled on a perfect position. I have no idea how.

Front and rear derailleurs adjusted for new crank and cassette, front is spot on and the rear is very close... just need to adjust out very slightly to help when shifting up.

It's like riding a new bike.

redvee

I know Campag and Shimano don't mix so surely Evans should too. A Di2 bike with Campagnolo Scirocco wheels.

Frame: Pure Carbon p2p x subA Fork: Aero road fork, pure carbon, with subA Front Derailleur: Shimano Dura Ace Di2 9070 Rear Derailleur: Shimano Dura Ace Di2 9070 Number of Gears: 22 Shifters: Shimano Dura Ace Di2 9070 Chainset: Shimano Dura Ace 9000 Chainrings: 53/39 Cassette: Shimano Dura Ace 9000 11 Speed 11-25 Tooth Chain: Shimano Dura Ace CN-9000 Front Brake: integrated road design Rear Brake: integrated road design Handlebars: Easton, EC70 SL3 Stem: Easton EA90 Rims: Easton EC90 Aero Front Hub: Easton EC90 Aero Rear Hub: Easton EC90 Aero Front Tyre: Schwalbe Lugano Rear Tyre: Schwalbe Lugano Saddle: Fizik Arione CX Braided Seatpost: Aero road post, pure carbon, with p2p & subA Wheelset: Campagnolo Scirocco

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bmc ... c#features

Manc33

Truing up my rear wheel, I was pleasantly surprised to find my stand can take the wheel with its tyre still on.

Its an older version of that stand they sell at Rose Bikes.
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/rose ... aid:553818

It looks exactly the same as that but it isn't that brand.

I think I am the only person in the world with one. :oops: It says "LEDA" on it and is made in Japan. Its a solid stand. Nearly everyone I saw in the reviews that bought one of those flimsy £60 ones ended up buying a £200 Park Tool one after it. :roll:

inb4 "You bought a fake one from China" nah, this stand was my dads from about 25 years back. It hardly moved when I first found it but after oiling it, it works really well and is heavy enough to true wheels with ease.

That thing is only £30 jeez... there's one thats about £60 that is crap. Shop around folks!

dhope

redvee wrote:

I know Campag and Shimano don't mix so surely Evans should too. A Di2 bike with Campagnolo Scirocco wheels.

Frame: Pure Carbon p2p x subA Fork: Aero road fork, pure carbon, with subA Front Derailleur: Shimano Dura Ace Di2 9070 Rear Derailleur: Shimano Dura Ace Di2 9070 Number of Gears: 22 Shifters: Shimano Dura Ace Di2 9070 Chainset: Shimano Dura Ace 9000 Chainrings: 53/39 Cassette: Shimano Dura Ace 9000 11 Speed 11-25 Tooth Chain: Shimano Dura Ace CN-9000 Front Brake: integrated road design Rear Brake: integrated road design Handlebars: Easton, EC70 SL3 Stem: Easton EA90 Rims: Easton EC90 Aero Front Hub: Easton EC90 Aero Rear Hub: Easton EC90 Aero Front Tyre: Schwalbe Lugano Rear Tyre: Schwalbe Lugano Saddle: Fizik Arione CX Braided Seatpost: Aero road post, pure carbon, with p2p & subA Wheelset: Campagnolo Scirocco

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bmc ... c#features

Massively misleading to claim they've knocked 53% off the price.
They've swapped out an £1800 wheelset for a £180 wheelset and then applied the usual BMC discounts.

Wheelspinner

dhope wrote:

redvee wrote:

I know Campag and Shimano don't mix so surely Evans should too. A Di2 bike with Campagnolo Scirocco wheels.

Frame: Pure Carbon p2p x subA Fork: Aero road fork, pure carbon, with subA Front Derailleur: Shimano Dura Ace Di2 9070 Rear Derailleur: Shimano Dura Ace Di2 9070 Number of Gears: 22 Shifters: Shimano Dura Ace Di2 9070 Chainset: Shimano Dura Ace 9000 Chainrings: 53/39 Cassette: Shimano Dura Ace 9000 11 Speed 11-25 Tooth Chain: Shimano Dura Ace CN-9000 Front Brake: integrated road design Rear Brake: integrated road design Handlebars: Easton, EC70 SL3 Stem: Easton EA90 Rims: Easton EC90 Aero Front Hub: Easton EC90 Aero Rear Hub: Easton EC90 Aero Front Tyre: Schwalbe Lugano Rear Tyre: Schwalbe Lugano Saddle: Fizik Arione CX Braided Seatpost: Aero road post, pure carbon, with p2p & subA Wheelset: Campagnolo Scirocco

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bmc ... c#features

Massively misleading to claim they've knocked 53% off the price.
They've swapped out an £1800 wheelset for a £180 wheelset and then applied the usual BMC discounts.

I looked at that spec list and wondered why on earth something with that spec and groupset would be supplied with those wheels... and Lugano tyres.

MonkeyMonster

I took my front wheel off and removed the 5 inch length of compacted mud from the front raceblade

Kieran_Burns

I may have had to do some emergency fettling at work last night to re-tighten one of the cranks bolts that had come loose. Bit of a wobbly ride in

bendertherobot

Removed Hy Rd from best bike. Put back on commuter. Fitted two new Hy Rd to best bike removing 2 BB7's in the process. New discs fitted to wheels.

New cables all round.

Removed snow tyres. Put normal tyres back on commuter.

45 minutes all told. Hy Rd are a piece of cake.