Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

ugo.santalucia

Removed mud tyres and fitted fast (I mean fast!) road tyres on best tubeless wheels. Roll on spring!

Found a few sharp bits inside the tyres, the sealant must have saved me some hassle there...

veronese68

Are you two going to make the weather turn to sh!t?

bendertherobot

It pretty much does that tomorrow evening but it's not really raging westerlies.

I need to get round to doing as Ugo has done and put really fast tyres on! I need to research removing, cleaning and redoing tubeless first mind.

ugo.santalucia

bendertherobot wrote:

It pretty much does that tomorrow evening but it's not really raging westerlies.

I need to get round to doing as Ugo has done and put really fast tyres on! I need to research removing, cleaning and redoing tubeless first mind.

it's all very simple and logical... the only cockup is when you can't build up enough pressure to sit the tyre on the bead. The XG TNT went up super easy, so maybe the rims are a good tight fit. If you have a compressor of course that's not an issue.

Screwfix next?

MonkeyMonster

bendertherobot wrote:

Removed snow tyres. Put normal tyres back on commuter.

Thanks, no really... goddam it. Now the prophecy of easter snow WILL come to pass and I will have to wfh all week because of the trains to didcot being shafted too... Oh wait - that's a good thing

I might need to swing by Ugo for a front wheel tune though... Once i've cleaned it though. Poor thing is covered in... well.

itboffin

When swapping over wheelsets on the Scott I thought it would check the indexing as its never been right since my incident at last years LBL.

Anyway long story short the rear indexing was all over the place and nothing I did would get it running smoothly, eventually in desperation I removed the rear mech thinking it might be bent, it might be a little but that wasnt the cause, turns out mixed in with the thick gunk was a 1/2 thin piece of metal which appears to be pushing the chain off the top sprocket.

Seriously!!!! WTAF :evil:

Anyway I clean it out and totally reset the H/L & B screws and cable tension, wasted 1 1/2 hours

All that and the chain still drops a sprocket when peddling back in the high high gear.

Bloody useless shimaNO CRAP

meanredspider

itboffin wrote:

When swapping over wheelsets on the Scott I thought it would check the indexing as its never been right since my incident at last years LBL.

Anyway long story short the rear indexing was all over the place and nothing I did would get it running smoothly, eventually in desperation I removed the rear mech thinking it might be bent, it might be a little but that wasnt the cause, turns out mixed in with the thick gunk was a 1/2 thin piece of metal which appears to be pushing the chain off the top sprocket.

Seriously!!!! WTAF :evil:

Anyway I clean it out and totally reset the H/L & B screws and cable tension, wasted 1 1/2 hours

All that and the chain still drops a sprocket when peddling back in the high high gear.

Bloody useless shimaNO CRAP

Di2

Just saying

bendertherobot

MonkeyMonster wrote:

bendertherobot wrote:

Removed snow tyres. Put normal tyres back on commuter.

Thanks, no really... goddam it. Now the prophecy of easter snow WILL come to pass and I will have to wfh all week because of the trains to didcot being shafted too... Oh wait - that's a good thing

I might need to swing by Ugo for a front wheel tune though... Once i've cleaned it though. Poor thing is covered in... well.

You're fine at the moment. Virtually nothing in the models other than a few teases. Honest

redvee

Mid week the main commute steed front end looked like this:



By mid-morning after returning from a local independent mechani to remove the crown race from the old forks and fit to the new ones and cut the steerer tube it looked like this after a cup of tea:



It now looks like this:



Kinesis DC37 forks, Avid BB5 calliper, Jagwire Hyper brake cable and a 29er front wheel with Deore XT CL hub with SKS guard stopping the crud from the roads getting me wet/dirty. Inner tube wrapped on the fork legs cause of the Sheffield stands in work.

Mark__gti

Fitted my warranty replacement HY/RD.

itboffin

My oh my how delightful to ride my carbon campag equipped Ribble sportive, every shift smooth quick and precise.

Dreamy 8)

meanredspider

Mark__gti wrote:

Fitted my warranty replacement HY/RD.

What was up with your one? Mine wasn't compensating.

Mark__gti

meanredspider wrote:

Mark__gti wrote:

Fitted my warranty replacement HY/RD.

What was up with your one? Mine wasn't compensating.

Yep same issue, seems they have a second generation model.
Sent them a picture and my front was a mk1 and the rear was a mk2. Received a replacement for the front next day.

meanredspider

Mark__gti wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

Mark__gti wrote:

Fitted my warranty replacement HY/RD.

What was up with your one? Mine wasn't compensating.

Yep same issue, seems they have a second generation model.
Sent them a picture and my front was a mk1 and the rear was a mk2. Received a replacement for the front next day.

Yup - mine was first gen - a picture and a replacement. I'm annoyed that it wasn't a recall. My brake was effectively dead after one descent of Alpe D'Huez. The replacement was a different colour which didn't bother me but was a bit odd.

MonkeyMonster

Uuugh, basically ruined a chain brush tool cleaning my poor crud covered chain. Not sure my rear cassette rings should be moving too... So after this last soak might need to do some tightening. Mustn't leave it this long between chain cleans when riding in the muddy stix.

ugo.santalucia

Cleaned the bike after a particularly filthy day out... removed the large flint that caused a ghost puncture and the sealant immediately sealed it again... job done... gotta love tubeless...

R4skob

long overdue clean of the chain and gears, then had a fiddle with the indexing. Seems to be running smooth once again.

Job done

Manc33

Sorting out a stiff link that took riding to become stiff. Probably the link I had pushed the pin side to side fifty billion times the other day and could never get fully loose. Riding the bike made it so it was fixable straight away.

rhodrich

Continued the build on my Harry Hall Audax bike. Once I've fitted the chainset and front mech, and taped the bars, it should be ready for it's first ride.

In the meantime, I really need to get round to changing the chain on my commuter bike (8 speed drivetrain). It's currently at somewhere between 0.75% and 1% stretch after 1400 miles, which isn't great, but then with the amount of salt on the roads in the last couple of months, I guess that's no surprise. By next weekend, it will be up to 1500 miles, so I won't feel so bad about binning it.

Kieran_Burns

adjusted the pre-load on the Felt 105 crank and re-tightened the crank bolts, this allowed me to properly dial in the FD and that's now shifting very smoothly

Also fitted the 105 crank to the Tricross and dialled that in (using the spacer for the triple chainset) plus got the brakes sorted on the same. Can now see I have two buckled wheels on the bike that need straightening (nothing really bad but do restrict how tight I can get the brakes) so I'll bring those in to my LBS and get them to sort them properly.

Pretty close to having all 3 bikes road worthy soon

il_principe

Fitted my Zipp 404s along with a Chorus 11/25 to the Canyon along with a KMC SL11 chain. As others have confirmed I can report that it is possible to run a Campag cassette with Shimano Chainrings. Was easy to index the Di2 as well (although not as straightforward as EPS IMHO). Went for a decent ride on Sunday and shifing was just as good (if not better) than it was with the Ultegra Chain/Cassette.



Think I'm going to get my Zipps rebuilt onto new hubs though.

bobbygloss

Friday's fine fettling fail:
Checked the brake pads on the MTB, saw they need replacing but had enough life to wait for the weekend. Halfway to work, I heard grating noises followed by complete rear brake failure. The pads had dropped out from the caliper, but the split pin was still in place (Deore brakes) so it must have just been careless installation. Lesson learned.

Second lesson: when Nokian Extreme tyres wear out, they wear out really fast. Mine have split between the nobbles on the shoulders almost all the way around on both sides of the tyre. The biggest split caused a puncture, but there were 30 or 40 other splits where the tube could be seen.

Wheelspinner

Swapped out knobbies to slicks for some extra road speed. Trued up back wheel on single speed MTB which was a bit wobbly, and changed the pedals over to SPD's.

Should shorten up brake lines on another bike too, but CBA. Later.

bobbygloss

Bobbygloss wrote:

...I heard grating noises followed by complete rear brake failure. The pads had dropped out from the caliper, but the split pin was still in place (Deore brakes) so it must have just been careless installation.

Update: I think I've killed my bike.

The caliper mounting tab on the frame has snapped off. Now when the brake is applied, the caliper rotates around the lower bolt until the hose pulls tight.
Anyone know if this can be repaired?

dhope

Bobbygloss wrote:

Bobbygloss wrote:

...I heard grating noises followed by complete rear brake failure. The pads had dropped out from the caliper, but the split pin was still in place (Deore brakes) so it must have just been careless installation.

Update: I think I've killed my bike.

The caliper mounting tab on the frame has snapped off. Now when the brake is applied, the caliper rotates around the lower bolt until the hose pulls tight.
Anyone know if this can be repaired?

Trek judging by the decal - lifetime frame warranty for original owners I think?

ugo.santalucia

An aluminium IS mount is never going to be a good idea... trek should know better

UndercoverElephant

Bobbygloss wrote:

Bobbygloss wrote:

...I heard grating noises followed by complete rear brake failure. The pads had dropped out from the caliper, but the split pin was still in place (Deore brakes) so it must have just been careless installation.

Update: I think I've killed my bike.

The caliper mounting tab on the frame has snapped off. Now when the brake is applied, the caliper rotates around the lower bolt until the hose pulls tight.
Anyone know if this can be repaired?

Not sure if it's just the way the flash is bouncing, but it looks a little fatigued where the seat stay meets the dropout too.

bobbygloss

dhope wrote:

Trek judging by the decal - lifetime frame warranty for original owners I think?

It is indeed, a Trek 6000. I'll take it back to the shop tonight and see what they say. It's 4 years old, but caliper and disc are still the originals.

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Not sure if it's just the way the flash is bouncing, but it looks a little fatigued where the seat stay meets the dropout too.

Normally this would be a comment that would send me into more misery, but under the circumstances it won't really matter. I'll check anyway, but I think it is just muck.

woodyonthebeach

My Mango cheap arse pain machine had a few brake issues and a seized rear hub.

WD40 to the rescue, I now have braking and a fully functioning hub.

Lesson learnt here. It maybe my commuting crapper but it still needs love and attention

MisterMuncher

Chains, cassettes and chainrings off and degreased, good strip and lube of both bikes. There's been too much decent weather of late round here to only use the runabout/wet/commute bike.

Going to drop both forks off at the LBS tomorrow to get trimmed down. 30 and 45mm of spacers is a bit excessive. I'm pretty sure I could get another stem onto the good bike. I could cut them myself, but at a fiver each, it's just not worth buying tools or taking chances.