First road bike - Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016

1567911

Comments

  • overide
    overide Posts: 2
    I've just got got the 2017 model a couple of weeks ago and really love the the look of it. Not had much chance to ride it yet due to the weather but hoping that improves soon. 30 minutes on it one cold morning to setup the saddle height but that's it so far.

    I've removed all the warning stickers on the frame and the QR code stickers on the wheels and it's much nicer. Also, added some PD-M520 pedals which work well.

    One question though, does anyone know where the transparent stone guard stickers are supposed to go? Mine were just in a plastic bag with the manual. Cube sell them so I suppose they should go somewhere!

    https://www.cube.eu/hu/equipment/access ... ansparent/

    Thanks.
  • pangolin
    pangolin Posts: 6,648
    overide wrote:
    One question though, does anyone know where the transparent stone guard stickers are supposed to go? Mine were just in a plastic bag with the manual. Cube sell them so I suppose they should go somewhere!

    <span class="skimlinks-unlinked">https://www.cube.eu/hu/equipment/accessories/protection/product/cube-stone-guard-carbon-transparent</span>/

    Thanks.

    I'm pretty sure they're just for cable rub areas. Around the headtube and where the cables enter the frame. That's what I did with mine.
    - Genesis Croix de Fer
    - Dolan Tuono
  • overide
    overide Posts: 2
    Thanks pangolin. Will take a look.
  • N0bodyOfTheGoat
    N0bodyOfTheGoat Posts: 6,057

    * Faints *

    Have you ordered 50 pairs yet to make a tidy re-selling profit? :lol:
    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo

  • * Faints *

    Have you ordered 50 pairs yet to make a tidy re-selling profit? :lol:
    It’s tempting :mrgreen:
  • N0bodyOfTheGoat
    N0bodyOfTheGoat Posts: 6,057

    * Faints *

    Have you ordered 50 pairs yet to make a tidy re-selling profit? :lol:
    It’s tempting :mrgreen:

    After you posted this Cube Attain mudguards availability yesterday, I faffed around for a bit before going out for a late ride plus I woke up very late for me this morning, so I've not looked properly myself yet before asking this question...

    Is this definitely new stock after the Cube recall ~18 months ago?

    I only ask because so far, I've yet to see any this new version anywhere else, including a brief look on Cube's own site.
    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • I assume it is, Infinity Durham are a specialist Cube store...
  • N0bodyOfTheGoat
    N0bodyOfTheGoat Posts: 6,057
    Has nobody ordered a set yet? :lol:

    I'm tempted, but I have this nagging feeling that they might not have tyre clearance for my new first set of 28mm GP4000s to go on my Hunt wheel upgrade.
    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • I had the old guards on mine. With the factory spec Continue 25s on, clearance was tight. If be surprised if 28s fitted without rub
  • Has nobody ordered a set yet? :lol:

    I'm tempted, but I have this nagging feeling that they might not have tyre clearance for my new first set of 28mm GP4000s to go on my Hunt wheel upgrade.
    Well, there's a chance they've changed the design I guess - the website does state they'll fit "up to 28mm".

    Go on, get a set and let us all know :mrgreen:

    (also - which Hunt wheels did you go for? I've been thinking about a pair as well...)
  • N0bodyOfTheGoat
    N0bodyOfTheGoat Posts: 6,057
    Given the "28mm" GP4000s will measure ~31mm wide and ~29mm tall according to [url=Rhttps://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/conti-gp4000s-ii-23-25-28]Rhttps://www.bicyclerollingresistance.c ... i-23-25-28[/url] , I will be amazed if they fit... Will let my bank account recover for a day or so (see below) and have a ponder. ;)

    Hunt Aero Light Discs arrived yesterday after DPD driver had huge fail on Saturday afternoon (got to ~delivery 45 of 70 by 1700ish before heading back to depot), waiting for centrelock rotors from Merlin to hopefully arrive today.

    I've yet to inspect the pads that came with the bike last May, but given the Cube has now done ~3000 miles including several months of Zwift earlier this year, it has crossed my mind that I ought to inspect them and have a replacement set ready to install!
    I know a lot of pads look similar, but their shape looks very close to the BS01S pads that my Voodoo's BR-M355 take... Thinking https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-l0 ... 01339.html for the front and maybe https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-k0 ... 01342.html (or the finned L02A equivalent, which Merlin don't stock) on the rear. But mixing and matching pad compounds is a new concept for me and someone will probably come along and write I should put the different compounds at the opposite end of the bike to how I wrote. :lol:

    Has anyone here upgraded the alloy seat post to a carbon?

    Upgraded the bars to carbon and/or a 35mm clamp?

    What about upgrading the fork to a full carbon?
    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • I wouldn't bother wasting money on upgrading any of those components to carbon tbh. The bike weighs a ton, and some carbon bits aren't going to make much of a dent in the weight, and any comfort gains will be marginal given it's a comfortable endurance style bike with generous sized tyres.

    I just took all the crap stickers off the wheels, swapped out stem for a longer one, and binned the saddle for my usual Arione preference.
  • N0bodyOfTheGoat
    N0bodyOfTheGoat Posts: 6,057
    I wouldn't say this Cube weighs a ton, ~9.05Kg with the stock ~1900g wheels, but I was thinking more about the carbon seat post more for comfort. If I have the rear 28mm (really ~31mm) tyre pressure greater than ~85PSI, on longer rides of 3+ hours I do start to feel a little saddle sore when riding over tiny tarmac bumps.

    While waiting for the new home broadband to kick in after switching companies earlier, I decided to have a play with the with the bar height, things didn't exactly go to plan...

    I think I discovered why I have been getting a tiny bit of "play" developing between the spacers above the stem and the topcap over time, namely the steerer bung bolt was tightened to a very low torque and ~3mm of the knurled contact point was above the steerer! This explains why adding another 5mm spacer last summer worked for a while, but over time, it got to the point where I could wiggle the two spacers above the 4nM stem bolts.

    If you haven't already, have a quick check of how your steerer bung is set, I vaguely recall someone else saying about spacer play after I mentioned it.

    So I removed the barely tightened bung altogether, to see it offers ~40mm of internal support to the fork steerer, pretty much the stem stack height. I then re-inserted the bung and tightened it to ~4nM, which all the knurled section dropped inside the steerer as far as possible.

    Which then left me feeling like for safety's sake, I had to do the opposite of why I began this tweak...

    I had been running the uncut steerer with 20mm of spacers above the negative angled stem, but I was finding on 3+ hour rides, that my shoulders were a bit stiff after predominantly using the hoods grip because I was effectively having to hunch my shoulders up a little grip the hoods. I was going to try putting the stem directly on top of the conical spacer, which would have lowered the drops by another 15mm.
    But as there will be no internal support from the bung, I've now ended up removing that extra 5mm spacer I added last year having adjusted the bung and raising the stem by 15mm to the stem bolts are aligned with the bung! :oops:

    Guess I need try and get in the habit of using the drops more often again. :lol:
    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • pangolin
    pangolin Posts: 6,648
    I've not used bungs before but there was a discussion about this here: viewtopic.php?t=13074090

    Can you not push the bung further down the steerer tube? Is there a lip that means it always sits on the top? As someone says, not sure why they are even using it when the steerer not carbon.
    - Genesis Croix de Fer
    - Dolan Tuono
  • N0bodyOfTheGoat
    N0bodyOfTheGoat Posts: 6,057
    pangolin wrote:
    I've not used bungs before but there was a discussion about this here: viewtopic.php?t=13074090

    Can you not push the bung further down the steerer tube? Is there a lip that means it always sits on the top? As someone says, not sure why they are even using it when the steerer not carbon.

    Hadn't seen that thread, but sounds familiar!

    I pushed the bung down so the lip touches the top of the steerer and tightened it to a higher torque that I found it with, which IMO wasn't enough and was the cause of spacer rattle due to the topcap bolt effectively pulling the bung out of the steerer.

    Like you say though, it is odd having a bung with an alloy steerer, I might well go back to my original plan and try lowering the stem below the bung and seeing if that does solve the shoulder issue on longer rides... But not today, as I've been having fun tweaking the caliper alignment to remove rotor rub on the front wheel upgrade for a second time this morning, after an unplanned swap to the front wheel on Thursday night. Still got the fun of setting up the rear wheel upgrade at some point! :lol:

    One thing this morning's tweak did reveal when I removed the front pads to push the pistons back in, is that I must order some new pads ASAP, but given the Cube has almost 3700 hilly miles since May 2017 that really isn't such a surprise.
    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • pangolin
    pangolin Posts: 6,648
    One thing this morning's tweak did reveal when I removed the front pads to push the pistons back in, is that I must order some new pads ASAP, but given the Cube has almost 3700 hilly miles since May 2017 that really isn't such a surprise.

    Let me know if you find any decent prices for pads - £15 a pair feels a bit steep.
    - Genesis Croix de Fer
    - Dolan Tuono
  • N0bodyOfTheGoat
    N0bodyOfTheGoat Posts: 6,057
    pangolin wrote:
    One thing this morning's tweak did reveal when I removed the front pads to push the pistons back in, is that I must order some new pads ASAP, but given the Cube has almost 3700 hilly miles since May 2017 that really isn't such a surprise.

    Let me know if you find any decent prices for pads - £15 a pair feels a bit steep.

    If you can live without the hip and trendy cooling fins, I've been lead to believe that https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-p ... -split-pin might work with the Cube's BR505 calipers, which are the ones officially used by my Voodoo's hydraulics.

    ~£7.20 a set today in flash sale with BC discount.
    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • benws1
    benws1 Posts: 415
    Hello all.

    My woes with my Cube Attain continue i'm afraid. I've noticed that the bottom bracket now has play in it (as seen by holding each crank and moving it side to side).

    I have noticed an annoying clicking noise of late so thought I'd take a look at the bike. After trying the cranks for play, it seems there is indeed movement in the bottom bracket. I can move the cranks backwards and forwards a little when holding them.

    I have spent the best part of an hour and a half tonight undoing the crank bolts, tightening the star nut thingy, tightening it all up and trying again. No matter what I do, I can't seem to eliminate the play. I got to a point where the cranks were so tight it was difficult to spin them and the bottom bracket still had play.

    Anyhow, I've had enough of it now and thought I'd ask on here to see if I'm doing something wrong or if there is indeed a problem.

    The bike is a year and a half old, but I have ridden it at most about 30 times. This doesn't seem a lot to cause issues with the BB.

    Anyone have any ideas about that is going on with it? I haven't a clue what sort of BB it is. I think it is press fit though as I can't see any threads for the BB. Thanks.
  • efc_barm
    efc_barm Posts: 20
    I had a new bottom bracket fitted a few months ago after just a year. It was making an annoying knocking sound most of the time that was getting worse.
  • benws1
    benws1 Posts: 415
    Oh dear. :(

    Seems a bit naff that mine only lasted around 30 bike rides though and has only been out in fine weather.

    Just a side note, I finally had enough and took the whole thing apart just now. Well, the BB is still in the shell. When I took the non drive side off, a ring of plastic fell off. Initially I thought this was a seal or something, but it looks like it's the collar off the BB plastic. It's just disintegrated. The non drive side is very wobbly when I stuck my finger in and manipulated it. I guess that is the issue.

    Drive side seems ok and has the plastic collar around the BB shell.

    The BB is a Shimano BB-RS500-PB. Anyone know where I can get a replacement? Is it the 86mm? Thanks.
  • N0bodyOfTheGoat
    N0bodyOfTheGoat Posts: 6,057
    Anyone else getting regular front disc rotor rub when powering up hills, out of the saddle?

    IIRC, the front bolt thru is torqued to ~13nM, thinking of trying closer to the 16nM recommended limit to see if this reduces fork blade flex.
    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • benws1
    benws1 Posts: 415
    Anyone else getting regular front disc rotor rub when powering up hills, out of the saddle?

    IIRC, the front bolt thru is torqued to ~13nM, thinking of trying closer to the 16nM recommended limit to see if this reduces fork blade flex.

    Yes. Had that issue for a while. Initially, I thought it was chain rub. Realised it was the front disc rubbing.

    Haven't worked out a way to fix it yet, but my Cube is currently in the garage with no cranks due to my BB issue.
  • pangolin
    pangolin Posts: 6,648
    benws1 wrote:
    Anyone else getting regular front disc rotor rub when powering up hills, out of the saddle?

    IIRC, the front bolt thru is torqued to ~13nM, thinking of trying closer to the 16nM recommended limit to see if this reduces fork blade flex.

    Yes. Had that issue for a while. Initially, I thought it was chain rub. Realised it was the front disc rubbing.

    Haven't worked out a way to fix it yet, but my Cube is currently in the garage with no cranks due to my BB issue.

    Yes I had disc rub. I watched the disc carefully with the bike upside down and the wheel spinning, it was just very slightly out of true. It didn't make any noise while seated but stood up it flexed enough that it rubbed.

    I very carefully bent it back using a large adjustable spanner. No rub currently. If you try this really go easy, apply just a tiny amount of force to the disc then try spinning it again.

    BB has been fine so far, it's done 500 miles.
    - Genesis Croix de Fer
    - Dolan Tuono
  • Anyone had major puncture issues with this bike and stock wheels Fulcrum Racing 77 Disc? Punctures started after changed tyres to Conti GP4000S IIs. Had about 10 in last 4 weeks, all on front.

    Locations: 5 on rim side, 5 spokes from valve. 3 slow ones on tyre side 1cm from valve, 1 slow one tyre side at 6 o'clock from valve.

    What I,'ve tried: Got LBS to change rim tape, switched to new GP4000 tyre, checked/cleaned tyres found nothing.

    Seems must be something wrong with wheel, but mystified. Rear is fine on same tyre model.

    Anyone have similar or can help? Otherwise may need new wheels or new bike.

    Today swapped tyres for GP 4 Seasons.
  • N0bodyOfTheGoat
    N0bodyOfTheGoat Posts: 6,057
    edited August 2018
    I had my first slow puncture on my rear 700x28 GP4000 S2 on Wednesday evening's ride on my Hunt wheels. I took a chance and only inflated the latex tube to ~84PSI before heading out, when I normally inflate to ~89PSI. Fortunately, it was such a slow puncture, I was able to stop once, re-inflate with my mini pump and then blast it home without having to topup again.

    In more typical summer conditions, with more frequent rain showers, I would have probably been fine. But the South Downs have had their first few light showers in the last week or so, after a largely bone dry spell of ~2 months, which will naturally drag some small flints/stones onto the tarmac.

    While lower pressures will give you more comfort on rougher roads and more grip in damp conditions, at the same time they will increase the risk of sharp objects puncturing tyres.

    I only had one front puncture on the Fulcrum Racing 77 DB wheelset over ~14 months with 700x28 Grand SPort Race tyres, ~25mins into my only century ride to date, when I was again using relatively low pressure (~65PSI versus my norm of ~70PSI). Very rough road, loads of loose material.

    Given how soft the rubber is on GP4000 S2s (giving more grip compared to Grand Sport Races IMO) and now having had my first fairy visit, I'm inclined to head off on rides with higher pressures, ~80/90PSI (front/rear), typically setting off with a total weight of ~92Kg including 2.7 litres of water in the hotter weather. Riding the South Down hills has many plus points for me, but one negative is there are many roads littered with potential objects to pierce your rubber.

    @pangolin Will check the rotor shapes, thanks for tip.
    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • apreading
    apreading Posts: 4,535
    If the LBS have checked it, doesnt sound like there should be anything wrong with the wheel. What caused the punctures? Was there anything sharp embedded in the tyre? I fail to see how the wheel could cause punctures on the tyre side either. Punctures on the rim side sounds weird though - that shouldnt happen. Can you feel anything sharp there?
  • voodooman
    voodooman Posts: 183
    Had puncture issues that I identified as from the side of the wheel where a tiny bit of swarf would eventually rub into the tube (and that gives an idea of how small) after a couple of weeks commuting.

    Best advice I was given was to get a handful of toilet tissue or cotton wool and gently rub around the wheel - identified the issue and sorted with a bit of emery cloth. Had punctures since but always due to bits of flint (even on a schwalbe durano plus!) on the New Forest roads, which are just an occupational hazard in this area.
  • Tyres at 95-100 PSI, nothing embedded in tyres, believe me I have checked thoroughly.

    I have not had a rim side puncture since rim tape replaced last weekend, just the 2nd one tyre side close to valve and the tyre side one at 6 o'clock.

    This is all while commuting on largely flat roads in London, 16 miles per day.
  • Spent the evening with a magnifying glass, and think I found the 6 o'clock cause, tiniest bit of something maybe metal extracted with tweezers. Was only on inside of tyre, so not sure how it got there.

    No puncture today on new 4 Seasons tyres.

    Thanks for all the advice. Did not realize how tiny these things could be. Very tricky with my aging eyesight!