First road bike - Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016

N0bodyOfTheGoat

pangolin wrote:

NitrousOxide wrote:

Anyone else got a tiny bit of fork wobble, that pre-loading with the top-cap bolt and then tightening the stem bolts, will not get rid of?

It really is a tiny wobble, but it shows up when applying brakes and shifting bike forwards and backwards. I can slide the spacers a tiny fraction side to side. Might try swapping out a spacer for one slightly deeper.

Yeah I noticed this when I lowered my stem and then tightened everything up again. Did you solve it?

I added an extra steerer spacer, all good now.

That Raceblade XL guard option looks interesting, I'm getting sick of waiting for Cube to re-release their Attain guard.

funkybaj

lettingthedaysgoby wrote:

Apologies for the crap pic, but should give you an idea.

Perfect, thanks very much, appreciated.

pangolin

Anyone noticed a small hole on the inside of the forks? I got my replacement fork today and saw this while looking it over. I checked my existing fork and it has the same mark. It looks a bit ragged to be intentional, but other Cube's also have them apparently.





Someone else lists the same issue here: http://road.cc/content/forum/217479-new-carbon-bike-hole-forks

Just wondering if it's intentional and nothing to worry about.

pippi_langsamer-2

pangolin wrote:

Anyone noticed a small hole on the inside of the forks? I got my replacement fork today and saw this while looking it over. I checked my existing fork and it has the same mark. It looks a bit ragged to be intentional, but other Cube's also have them apparently.





Someone else lists the same issue here: http://road.cc/content/forum/217479-new-carbon-bike-hole-forks

Just wondering if it's intentional and nothing to worry about.

Yep, have the same on mine.

lettingthedaysgoby

And on mine. I did a thread about it on here when I discovered it, at the time I assumed it had been chipped by a stone whilst riding.

As they all seem to have it I guess it must be a drain hole of some sort that gets painted over leaving that slightly crap finish.

I’ve stopped worrying about it anyway

pangolin

Gotcha. I read one guy saying the carbon is finished in an oven and a hole is needed somewhere so the pressure doesn't make it explode. Anyways, glad to hear it's normal - thanks guys.

olly49267

Just got mine. Reading the accompanying Additional Instructions for Cube carbon frame forks, for the X12 through axle system torque it says "slightly screwed (1 screw)". Anyone know what this means?

davesnothere

Olly49267 wrote:

Just got mine. Reading the accompanying Additional Instructions for Cube carbon frame forks, for the X12 through axle system torque it says "slightly screwed (1 screw)". Anyone know what this means?

All of the components have a torque rating on them. The thru axles are rated at 10-16 Nm. IMHO they don't need to be anywhere as tight as that, bearing in mind that at some point you will have to undo it at the side of the road with a multi tool or allen key.

I have mine at about 7 Nm which is hand tight but can be released with multi tool easily enough

I don't know what slightly screwed/1 screw means? Lost in translation somehow i guess

lettingthedaysgoby

I do my front to 7Nm and the rear to 8.

Any tighter than that and a) I’d never get them undone at the side of the road and b) the discs rub on the pads

lettingthedaysgoby

I’ve just fitted a pair of flat pedals and a pair of 30mm Scwalbe CX Pro tyres to mine, I’m off exploring some Derbyshire trails next week and also fancy taking it off road a bit round Sutton Park which is right on my doorstep.

Interestingly, the 30mm CX tyres come up narrower than the 28mm GP4000 II’s I had on...

N0bodyOfTheGoat

lettingthedaysgoby wrote:

I’ve just fitted a pair of flat pedals and a pair of 30mm Scwalbe CX Pro tyres to mine, I’m off exploring some Derbyshire trails next week and also fancy taking it off road a bit round Sutton Park which is right on my doorstep.

Interestingly, the 30mm CX tyres come up narrower than the 28mm GP4000 II’s I had on...

Doesn't surprise me, the 28mm Grand Sport Race I've had up front since around September measures ~31mm. Iirc, there's ~4mm clearance on the side and ~7mm clearance to the fork crown, still yet to try the other in the rear because it will affect gearing and I often need my easiest gear to climb Dell Road.

lettingthedaysgoby

How will a wider tyre affect the gearing? :? :?:

N0bodyOfTheGoat

lettingthedaysgoby wrote:

How will a wider tyre affect the gearing? :? :?:

Wider tyres are also a larger circumference. Larger circumference tyres on the drive (rear) wheel require more power for the same pedalling cadence using the same chainring/sprocket combo.

lostboysaint

NitrousOxide wrote:

lettingthedaysgoby wrote:

How will a wider tyre affect the gearing? :? :?:

Wider tyres are also a larger circumference. Larger circumference tyres on the drive (rear) wheel require more power for the same pedalling cadence using the same chainring/sprocket combo.

You are right about the longer circumference, this will give a longer gearing. The rest you're mixing your physics up there a bit. It's got nothing to do with power and cadence.

N0bodyOfTheGoat

lostboysaint wrote:

NitrousOxide wrote:

lettingthedaysgoby wrote:

How will a wider tyre affect the gearing? :? :?:

Wider tyres are also a larger circumference. Larger circumference tyres on the drive (rear) wheel require more power for the same pedalling cadence using the same chainring/sprocket combo.

You are right about the longer circumference, this will give a longer gearing. The rest you're mixing your physics up there a bit. It's got nothing to do with power and cadence.

Maybe I'm not writing this difference very eloquently.

On my Voodoo, I have 24/38T chainrings and an 8-speed 11-30T cassette. On the flatter section of my commute, I am usually comfortable using the 38-15 combo with ~32-622 tyres, if I swap to a ~60-622 rear I usually have to use an easier gear on that section (38-17) to stop my knees complaining. When using 40-622 tyres, I typically ending up shifting between those two gears in that same flat section, depending upon how my knees feel. I'm much more of a "spinner" than a "grinder" as regards cadence, typically ~95-100rpm when sitting.

So are we saying that I'm having to change gear depending upon tyre size only due to extra aero drag of a larger tyre, rather than it requiring more power with a larger tyre to maintain the same ~95-100rpm cadence?

lostboysaint

The larger tyre rolling circumference makes the gearing longer. You were correct.

How fast, what cadence, what crank length (leverage), what power etc. are all nothing to do with the gearing - which is purely a mechanical thing.

What you're talking about it is what gear do you need to be in to achieve a particular comfortable cadence - and the answer, as you've already found out, is that you may be a gear up the block to keep a similar cadence.

It's down to gear inches, not power.

lettingthedaysgoby

Is the (relatively tiny) change in diameter really going to make that much practical difference?

N0bodyOfTheGoat

lettingthedaysgoby wrote:

Is the (relatively tiny) change in diameter really going to make that much practical difference?

It will be interesting to see, once the weather improves, when I will try the 28mm (really 31mm) tyre.

But given the icy mornings and chilly days; a less than perfect road surface (very worn in places and some moss getting a foothold); leaf mulch and some muddy tyre tracks from diggers, the Cube won't be visiting my local wall of pain https://veloviewer.com/segment/2558982 for a while and I'll be sticking to training there on the Voodoo with 252 studded tyres for now.

It's not so much doing a one-off effort on a training ride that is the issue, it's climbing it 5+ times on a hill rep ride that punishes my middle aged body. :twisted:

lostboysaint

NitrousOxide wrote:

lettingthedaysgoby wrote:

Is the (relatively tiny) change in diameter really going to make that much practical difference?

It will be interesting to see, once the weather improves, when I will try the 28mm (really 31mm) tyre.

But given the icy mornings and chilly days; a less than perfect road surface (very worn in places and some moss getting a foothold); leaf mulch and some muddy tyre tracks from diggers, the Cube won't be visiting my local wall of pain https://veloviewer.com/segment/2558982 for a while and I'll be sticking to training there on the Voodoo with 252 studded tyres for now.

It's not so much doing a one-off effort on a training ride that is the issue, it's climbing it 5+ times on a hill rep ride that punishes my middle aged body. :twisted:

You're not very far away from me. I ride an Agree rather than Attain and prefer to pop out into the countryside on the other side of the M27. Hopefully catch you around sometime.

lettingthedaysgoby

My Cube in its current “gravel” setup. Schwalbe CX Pro tyres in 30mm, FWE flat pedals, SKS Raceblade Pro XL mudguards 8)

N0bodyOfTheGoat

I was just going to post in here, asking how you were finding those CX tyres and mudguards! All good?

@lostboysaint When the weather is less extreme, I head out to the South Downs on either bike, typically starting at the base of Beacon Hill or the "River To Hilltop" segment near Soberton. I use the various routes up Witts Hill as a training ground, to keep my hill climbing ticking over.

lostboysaint

Looks good Lettingthedaysgoby!!!

@NitrousOxide - very likely I'll see you out and about then. All of our Tuesday evening rides start from J9 and go over the Mway and across the A32 just north of Wickham and into Soberton Heath. From then it's off up around the various climbs around Winchester Hill. You're more than welcome to join us!

lettingthedaysgoby

The CX tyres work really well. They’re cheap as chips so I’m not sure how sturdy/puncture proof they’ll be, but as they were bought as a “proof of concept” that the Attain could be a good gravel bike I don’t mind. Can always spend a bit more on something better if/when they go.

The SKS raceblades are great, but with a couple of limitations. Once you’ve done the initial setup they come on and off in less than a minute, which is great. That initial setup though is a bit fiddly and took me a good half hour of tweaking to get them just right. The main issue though is their length - because they don’t go beyond the fork crown/seatstays they keep crud away from the rider but not all of the bike. Still needs a quick rinse down with a hosepipe after a mucky ride.

I’m less sold on flat pedals though. I like being clipped in too much. A pair of SPD’s and mountain bike trainers could well be the next thing on my shopping list.

crantinope1

lettingthedaysgoby wrote:

The SKS raceblades are great, but with a couple of limitations. Once you’ve done the initial setup they come on and off in less than a minute, which is great. That initial setup though is a bit fiddly and took me a good half hour of tweaking to get them just right. The main issue though is their length - because they don’t go beyond the fork crown/seatstays they keep crud away from the rider but not all of the bike. Still needs a quick rinse down with a hosepipe after a mucky ride.

I had the raceblade xl on mine, and if you cut 1-1 1/2 inches off each of the metal rods, it enables you to tilt the guards further forwards by the same amount and sit forward of both the fork crown and the rear seat stay. I think I took pictures before I fitted the mk1 disc specific guards now discontinued (but still on my bike) I'll post a pic if I can dig it out

crantinope1

Here you go. Obviously rear coverage is compromised a little, but it kept my bike a little cleaner than it would have done.

courtmed

those gravel tyres look great! how have you found them? been tempted to do that with mine for a while now. still running the original ones - had my first puncture last week & I've had it for over a year now, so quite pleased with that

lettingthedaysgoby

courtmed wrote:

those gravel tyres look great! how have you found them? been tempted to do that with mine for a while now. still running the original ones - had my first puncture last week & I've had it for over a year now, so quite pleased with that

They’re fun for this time of year - I’ve been doing short but hard loops on gravel and mud tracks round Sutton Park, rather than road riding, which has been great. They’re less enjoyable on the road though so as soon as the weather picks up my 28mm GP 4000’s will be going back on.

funkybaj

So, I'm looking at getting my first smart trainer and being on a budget the Tacx Flow looks a decent introduction from what I can see.

However, one of their support pages claims that the trainers are not compatible with the Attain GTC Pro Disc due to the X12 axles. Has anyone managed to work those with a Flow or similar trainer?

https://support.tacx.com/hc/en-us/artic ... my-trainer

Thanks

davesnothere

funkybaj wrote:

So, I'm looking at getting my first smart trainer and being on a budget the Tacx Flow looks a decent introduction from what I can see.

However, one of their support pages claims that the trainers are not compatible with the Attain GTC Pro Disc due to the X12 axles. Has anyone managed to work those with a Flow or similar trainer?

https://support.tacx.com/hc/en-us/artic ... my-trainer

Thanks

Yes I had to buy a thru axle adapter, this is the one i bought, works perfectly. Mine isn't a tacx trainer but i think these would work the same.

You have to use spacers to get it in the right position. If you remove your thru axle then lay alongside the adapter it's pretty easy to work out same spacing.

You need the fine thread version for the cube

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FJGWYDQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

funkybaj

Thanks for the axle info, really helpful.

On another topic, does anyone know if the Fulcrum 77 wheels are tubeless compatible? From what I've read the 77 are OEM versions of the 7, but may differ slightly.

Fulcrum advertise the 7 as being tubeless compatible, or "2-way fit" as they call it. Not sure if this applies to the 77's though. Anyone had success?

http://www.fulcrumwheels.com/en/technol ... ready-road