New £400 disc wheels?

daniel_b

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19779578#p19779578]NeXXus[/url] wrote:

Which is an incredible deal!

Is it though?

I'm a pretty big Mavic fanboy myself, having loads of their jerseys, bib tights, shorts and 3/4's, jackets, shoes X 3 pairs, gloves, shoe covers, Ksyrium Elite wheels, and the ones with the Exalith rims - I forget the model, SLR perhaps?

Anyway, this review, all be it for the RRP of £880 doesn't seem that glowing, and mentions proprietary parts and the fact it still rocks a narrow rim width.

I'm genuinely interested (And am considering buying these), as you can see I am a fan of the company, just not sure if these are worth £200 (Price match accepted) over the Revos - I do appreciate they are some 109g lighter.

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/category/components/wheel-sets/product/review-mavic-ksyrium-pro-disc-wheels-15-49535/

broona

My wheels arrived this morning, 1662g on a cheap pair of kitchen scales, and they appear to be very well built, sure they'll see me through this year and then we'll see what next year brings.

daniel_b

Well I had another go, and was successful this time!

Wheels being delivered on Tuesday

In my mind I have just saved myself £220, as I would have likely bought the Mavic's otherwise.

rgh450

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19780383#p19780383]Daniel B[/url] wrote:

Well I had another go, and was successful this time!

Wheels being delivered on Tuesday

In my mind I have just saved myself £220, as I would have likely bought the Mavic's otherwise.

Well done! Mine arrived today at work so won't get them till Monday now!

daniel_b

Mine arrived today - confusingly, at the weekend I re-arranged them with the couriers website (DX) to be delivered on Tuesday, as I wfh onTuesday and Wednesday, but by pure luck they rocked up today slap bang in the middle of the 50 minutes I spend at home for lunch.

Not had a chance to even open the box yet, but they certainly feel light!

I will start fitting the Durano's tonight - they need 24 hours to stretch a bit before I can get the buggers on generally.

daniel_b

Weighed mine on the kitchen scales, and they came in at a highly respectable 1660g.

And that was with the pieces of plastic in each side of the wheel too, so take that off, and I think we are within 10g of their claimed weight - cant grumble with that.

The wheels do feel well built, and I am looking forward to seeing how they roll, and also what weight I save versus the wheels on my synapse - I think it could be in the realms of 600g or more - I think I will keep the original wheels, and pop some ice tyres on them.

I mostly fitted the durano plus etape tyres tonight, up to the point where they can stretch nicely, will try and get the tubes in, and all sorted tomorrow.

My only gripe, and this is not at the price I paid, is the quality of the decals - they are a bit tacky and not that well applied.
Any Shimano or Mavic wheels I have bought seem to have been perfectly affixed, and if I had paid £260, or the RRP of £350, I think I would have been a bit disappointed.
I wonder if the necessity to change a tyre out on the road with tyre levers might leave them fairly well rogered.
If I was confident I might try and remove them all.

I appreciate that it won't stop it doing it's job, or have any negative effects, but when I spend a chunk of cash I like something to be right, and at it's best if at all possible - not worried for £160 though, but just wanted to mention it.

Be interested to hear how people get on with these in the coming months.

Dreading fitting the discs from the old wheels, and then the pads rubbing in the brakes - I just know it is bound to happen!!! :evil:

As an aside, I noticed tonight that the url for these 21mm height rims on wiggle is not A21, but is A25, which kind of does match with the Ribble wheels, but is a bit weird.
Still can't understand how those wheels can be 40% heavier.

daniel_b

So discs swapped across, new durano plus etapes fitted - first time with no slaughtered tubes!

I overestimated the weight of the stock wheels on the cannondale, the weight savings are:

Front wheel - 81g
Rear wheel - 203g
Total - 284g

Not too shabby at all, and best of all these are not silver like the factory wheels.

But of course, as I alluded to above, both discs now rub like a complete B@stard :evil: making the bike unridable.

Can't face trying to adjust the SRAM housings right now, will try tomorrow - last time (I'm new to hydraulics) I gave up and took it back to Evans to sort it, and it took them a good 30-45 minutes to sort.
I had the bike delivered direct to me, and they were rubbing out of the box.

Worst case I will pay an LBS to sort it, though I know I should be able to do what should be a simple task - just need to persevere and not get frustrated :evil:

bmxboy10

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19782559#p19782559]Daniel B[/url] wrote:

So discs swapped across, new durano plus etapes fitted - first time with no slaughtered tubes!

I overestimated the weight of the stock wheels on the cannondale, the weight savings are:

Front wheel - 81g
Rear wheel - 203g
Total - 284g

Not too shabby at all, and best of all these are not silver like the factory wheels.

But of course, as I alluded to above, both discs now rub like a complete B@stard :evil: making the bike unridable.

Can't face trying to adjust the SRAM housings right now, will try tomorrow - last time (I'm new to hydraulics) I gave up and took it back to Evans to sort it, and it took them a good 30-45 minutes to sort.
I had the bike delivered direct to me, and they were rubbing out of the box.

Worst case I will pay an LBS to sort it, though I know I should be able to do what should be a simple task - just need to persevere and not get frustrated :evil:

Loosen the calliper bolts then pull the brake lever then re tighten the calliper bolts with the brakes engaged. The rubbing should stop.

daniel_b

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19782583#p19782583]solboy10[/url] wrote:

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19782559#p19782559]Daniel B[/url] wrote:

So discs swapped across, new durano plus etapes fitted - first time with no slaughtered tubes!

I overestimated the weight of the stock wheels on the cannondale, the weight savings are:

Front wheel - 81g
Rear wheel - 203g
Total - 284g

Not too shabby at all, and best of all these are not silver like the factory wheels.

But of course, as I alluded to above, both discs now rub like a complete B@stard :evil: making the bike unridable.

Can't face trying to adjust the SRAM housings right now, will try tomorrow - last time (I'm new to hydraulics) I gave up and took it back to Evans to sort it, and it took them a good 30-45 minutes to sort.
I had the bike delivered direct to me, and they were rubbing out of the box.

Worst case I will pay an LBS to sort it, though I know I should be able to do what should be a simple task - just need to persevere and not get frustrated :evil:

Loosen the calliper bolts then pull the brake lever then re tighten the calliper bolts with the brakes engaged. The rubbing should stop.

Cheers dude, I tried that last time repeatedly - I found the SRAM youtube video, but the problem I found is that I could visibly see the calliper moving as I tightened up the bolts - I need my gf to hang onto the lever I think, whilst I try and lock the calliper in position with one hand, and tighten with the other.
I mentioned this at Evans as well, and they said they only used it as a starting point, and then manually tweaked it a bit here, a bit there to get to a point of no rubbing - which took them a good while, but they did get there - have to hope I can manage it too - might need some meditation.

I suppose that is the flip side of discs - as I find fitting and adjusting rim brakes a comparitive doddle.

apreading

That technique almost never works for me. As you say, the torque of tightening the bolts twists the caliper and the force of this is creater than the braking force from holding the lever. Or something like that, it never works anyway...

I compensate by starting slightly over from where I want to end up, by the amount that tightening the bolts will move it, and hold the caliper by hand, aligned by eye, ignoring the brake lever. Works 90% of the time first time, else will work on the second go.

daniel_b

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19782632#p19782632]apreading[/url] wrote:

That technique almost never works for me. As you say, the torque of tightening the bolts twists the caliper and the force of this is creater than the braking force from holding the lever. Or something like that, it never works anyway...

I compensate by starting slightly over from where I want to end up, by the amount that tightening the bolts will move it, and hold the caliper by hand, aligned by eye, ignoring the brake lever. Works 90% of the time first time, else will work on the second go.

Thanks AP, that gives me hope!

bmxboy10

Ordered a set and Wiggle sent them out today. Wanted a high spoke count wheelset and was going to spend £450 on a set of handbuilts. These wont be as good but at £160 I don't care. On another thread Ugo thought these were built on Novatec hubs. If so the hubs alone are worth £100 so to me its a no brainer for the dosh involved.

gorjanc

So what would you recommend for a non UK buyer (no wiggle price match, no BC discount), for the same price range:
I was looking at Kinesis Crosslight CX Disc V4 or maybe V3 as they are a little lighter, Ribble has them at 270 GBP.

apreading

I dont know about the V4 but as our resident expert, UGO was not keen on the Crosslight V3, mainly due to the pillar spokes (http://whosatthewheel.com/2014/12/27/kinesis-crosslight-disc-wheels-any-good/) but they were stong and light - pretty good but not ideal when they need work later on. The V4 have a new rim apparently, so may improve their score somewhat (or might not). Personally, I think they are a good choice if you get them at the right price but at RRP are too expensive and you would be better with handbuilt.

bmxboy10

Well mine arrived in a box stating they are Revo A25s! Still weight 1654g though.

daniel_b

solboy10 wrote:

Well mine arrived in a box stating they are Revo A25s! Still weight 1654g though.

Ha, never even looked, same here.

I did notice the URL stated A25, so I think this was a wholly legitimate price match after all, and that the Ribble weights can't be anything like correct.
They must have lost a lot of sales by not having the correct info on there.

bendertherobot

There's a nice pair of Archetypes in the classifieds.

apreading

Weird, on wiggle.com the link is for A25 but the description is for the A21.

http://www.wiggle.com/pro-lite-revo-a25 ... -wheelset/

On wiggle.co.uk the link is for A25 and description the same.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/pro-lite-revo-a ... -wheelset/

which is better though? Need to check what I got now...

darkhairedlord

cue the tales of woe, poor tensioning and out of true-ness....

daniel_b

SuperstarComponents.com wrote:

To throw another option in there of rebranded - novatech 11 speed disc hubs on a selection of disc rims, have a look at our range.

I dont come on here to sell, i just thought it might be of interest to people as we have only just got them in and most people dont know the option exists.

We use high quality Sapim spokes and expensive SKF bearings as standard, which sets us apart (oh and they are alot better value as well)

Any questions please let me know, Superstar.

Looking at your hubs, do I see it right that you currently only stock a rear disc hub and no front?

apreading

apreading wrote:

Weird, on wiggle.com the link is for A25 but the description is for the A21.

http://www.wiggle.com/pro-lite-revo-a25 ... -wheelset/

On wiggle.co.uk the link is for A25 and description the same.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/pro-lite-revo-a ... -wheelset/

which is better though? Need to check what I got now...

Looked at my box and it says they are A21s on the outside at least

SuperstarComponents.com

apreading wrote:

I dont know about the V4 but as our resident expert, UGO was not keen on the Crosslight V3, mainly due to the pillar spokes (http://whosatthewheel.com/2014/12/27/ki ... -any-good/) but they were stong and light - pretty good but not ideal when they need work later on. The V4 have a new rim apparently, so may improve their score somewhat (or might not). Personally, I think they are a good choice if you get them at the right price but at RRP are too expensive and you would be better with handbuilt.

Nothing wrong with pillar spokes, especially if you know who they make OE spokes for Dont believe the hype, lots of claptrap on the net.

Still i prefer European made Sapim as they only have to be shipped a few hundred miles rather than all the way around the world! it makes a difference when you get deliveries with 2-300,000 spoke on at a time like Superstar.

Any questions let me know, Superstar

daniel_b

Daniel B wrote:

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19782632#p19782632]apreading[/url] wrote:

That technique almost never works for me. As you say, the torque of tightening the bolts twists the caliper and the force of this is creater than the braking force from holding the lever. Or something like that, it never works anyway...

I compensate by starting slightly over from where I want to end up, by the amount that tightening the bolts will move it, and hold the caliper by hand, aligned by eye, ignoring the brake lever. Works 90% of the time first time, else will work on the second go.

Thanks AP, that gives me hope!

i'm fast losing the will to live with disc brakes - well at least Sram ones, not had to dabble with the Shimano ones yet.

Have a nasty feeling that I have managed to bend the front rotor slightly as I can see a definite wobble as it spins, so either that is the wheel, which seems unlikely, or I need to buy a new rotor, which is what I will do.

The rear appears straight, but can I get it to not rub, can I hell, just spent 30 minutes faffing about with it, spinning the wheel, trying to move the calliper to get no rubbing just to see if it was even remotely possible, and it won't happen, not even nearly really, and I even kept mostly calm.
Tried the 'pulling the brake' technique on the offchance, and that was as unsuccessful as it was previously, even as a starting point it makes no odds - and to have a starting point is virtu impossible, because you can't move the unit until both bolts are loose, and then of course the position of the entire calliper changes, it seems to be to be a hit and hope type affair, though if I can't get it to spin freely whilst moving the calliper through all of the available range it has I'm really not sure what the deal is, unless the positioning on the new wheel\s is slightly different bya few mm - well it must be hence why they are rubbing to start with, but maybe it's out more than the calliper brackets can compensate for.

I'll have another go of course, but at this rate I may well end up taking it to an LBS and throwing some cash at them, as there comes a point when it ceases to make sense - my own sanity, such as it is, and all that.

:evil:

ugo.santalucia

Daniel B wrote:

Have a nasty feeling that I have managed to bend the front rotor slightly as I can see a definite wobble as it spins, so either that is the wheel, which seems unlikely, or I need to buy a new rotor, which is what I will do.

It cannot be the wheel. Wheel and rotor alignment have nothing to do with each other. If the bolts are done tightly and the hub is not defective (that is the 6 holders of the rotor are faced properly), then it is the rotor.
Warped rotors are very common... in theory they can be straightened, in practice it's easier said than done

luv2ride

I found I had to change both rotors supplied with my TRP Spyres due to them being warped. Went for SRAM 160mm rotors as CRC had them on sale at the time at a good discount. I gather Shimano Icetech rotors are pretty good, if not expensive, though. Reduce squealing apparently. Am now careful not to lean the bike on the rotors when at cafe stops and suchlike, surprisingly easily done.

Still find centering calipers a right Royal PITA

apreading

I find the best way to fix warped rotors is a big long hard braking session on a big hill...

daniel_b

ugo.santalucia wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Have a nasty feeling that I have managed to bend the front rotor slightly as I can see a definite wobble as it spins, so either that is the wheel, which seems unlikely, or I need to buy a new rotor, which is what I will do.

It cannot be the wheel. Wheel and rotor alignment have nothing to do with each other. If the bolts are done tightly and the hub is not defective (that is the 6 holders of the rotor are faced properly), then it is the rotor.
Warped rotors are very common... in theory they can be straightened, in practice it's easier said than done

Thanks Ugo - well hopefully the new rotor will resolve things.

Luv2ride wrote:

I found I had to change both rotors supplied with my TRP Spyres due to them being warped. Went for SRAM 160mm rotors as CRC had them on sale at the time at a good discount. I gather Shimano Icetech rotors are pretty good, if not expensive, though. Reduce squealing apparently. Am now careful not to lean the bike on the rotors when at cafe stops and suchlike, surprisingly easily done.

Still find centering calipers a right Royal PITA

That's good to know on all counts, I reckon the cheapo £7 rotors on this £1200\£1500 bike may be a contributory factor then - if the new front one makes a dramatic difference I will invest in a replacement 140 for the rear, despite me nearly getting it not to rub after another tinker this afternoon.

Also GOOD to know that it isn't just me being an incompetent bugger in not being able to get them right.
The one upside of all this faffing is that hopefully I will become semi decent in adjusting them - However I assume once you have them set up perfectly, the next time you need to adjust them is when you change wheels, or brakes, so I'll probably have forgotten by then!

apreading wrote:

I find the best way to fix warped rotors is a big long hard braking session on a big hill...

:twisted:

bendertherobot

Anyone noticed that the Ribble link now says "Please note that these are not the A21 wheels"

Though, I'm still confused. My wheels are 1650g or so. The box says A25. They are clearly the same spec etc

apreading

Googling on t'interweb, there seems to be no such thing as a Pro Lite Revo A25...

Is the internal width 19mm or 16mm on yours? Ribble says 16mm as well as 25mm deep (which is harder to measure accurately without calipers) and a fair bit heavier. Their quoted RRP is a fair bit lower than the wiggle one too. I am pretty sure that I got the A21 from Wiggle (box says so).

daniel_b

apreading wrote:

Googling on t'interweb, there seems to be no such thing as a Pro Lite Revo A25...

Is the internal width 19mm or 16mm on yours? Ribble says 16mm as well as 25mm deep (which is harder to measure accurately without calipers) and a fair bit heavier. Their quoted RRP is a fair bit lower than the wiggle one too. I am pretty sure that I got the A21 from Wiggle (box says so).

Mine are all fitted up with Durano Pluses now so can't check, sorry - presumably if there actually is a difference in rim height between the 25 and the 21 in terms of mm, then I should be able to pick that up on the callipers.

Not sure I am really bothered, as they are as light as I expected and that's the main thing for me, and I can fit 25's, or 28's on should I want to.

Having said that, a budget wheel for a similar price, and a lot more understated is this cosine, all be in oos until May:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cosine-23mm-alloy-clincher-disc-brake-road-wheelset/