Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

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  • Also you have to get the tyre to seal if doing getto tubeless with non tubeless tyres. Conti's mtb tyres have difficulty with this as they are quite porus.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • tom3
    tom3 Posts: 287
    Miche told me the 2016 hub is the samd ss the 2015 hub. Thd freehubs thst i have revievdd look thd same as they always have.
    The ratchet ring may have 30t now i have not counted. The front axle is alloy i think as the axle kits for the hubs now have an alloy front axle.

    The miche freehub is quite reliable. I have several sets with lots if winter miles and no maintance. Still wiating for something to go wrong. As for da hubs since thd price hike that madison have pushed through they now just look like ecpensive good hubs. Miche hubs are just as long lived for a sixth of the cost.

    Yeah I noticed this hike on the da hubs which was disappointing because I had priced up to buy the borg31 with da hubs inc the racing license discount next month, checked a week or so ago to see the price shoot up. I guessed it was the da hubs.
  • Alex99
    Alex99 Posts: 1,407
    Hi all, can you suggest a good rim for winter wheels with thick brake track?

    I'm increasingly thinking of going heavier for a my winter stuff, maybe to the point of using e.g. 32 mm Schwalbe Marathons. Anyone else gone 'heavy duty' care to comment?
  • Alex99 wrote:
    Hi all, can you suggest a good rim for winter wheels with thick brake track?

    I'm increasingly thinking of going heavier for a my winter stuff, maybe to the point of using e.g. 32 mm Schwalbe Marathons. Anyone else gone 'heavy duty' care to comment?

    Look at the Mavic touring range...
    left the forum March 2023
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    Sorry if this has been covered before. I am contemplating using the H plus son Archetype rims for a winter wheel build - not having used them before. As far as I can tell it would seem that the grey colour version is anodised whereas the silver and black versions are not?

    I appreciate that the braking track will end up silver after a moderate amount of use but can anyone (Ugo? Malcolm?)advise me of the real-world merits or otherwise of selecting the anodised version over the 'ordinary' one?

    Many thanks
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • hubcap
    hubcap Posts: 163
    I've used the grey anodised rims on my winter bike and the silver rims on my summer bike. I noticed no difference at all, apart from the colour obviously!
  • No difference
    left the forum March 2023
  • philbar72
    philbar72 Posts: 2,229
    yeah, no difference. they are great rims though.
  • troj
    troj Posts: 43
    Hi All,
    it's time to start thinking of rerimming my handbuilt's as the rear sidewall is showing signs of wear. Current spec is 32/32 Pacenti SL23 V1 on Royce hubs (front is mid flanged) built up with sapim lasers all round. Have had no issues with these but as Pacenti has moved on to V2 just checking if there is anything else worth considering??
    Also considering going tubeless though been very happy to ride year round Vittoria Pave's 24,25 or 27mm versions paired with latex tubes year round. Cost, wear rate and suppliness is my only conscern with tubeless tyres.
    Don't have a set budget yet. These wheels will be for anything from slow social rides with novice cycling friends in all weathers to European sportives (we do Flanders and PR every year and Mountainous ones every other year).
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    I've got a set with DT Swiss RR440 rims, tubeless with IRC roadlites. Very pleased with them although ideally they'd be a smidge wider.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • troj
    troj Posts: 43
    How wide are they? or do they are they "wide" externally but have a relatively small internal width?
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    troj wrote:
    How wide are they? or do they are they "wide" externally but have a relatively small internal width?

    According to the web site they are 21mm external, 16mm internal. 23c wide tyres are pretty well aligned with the brake tracks, 25C would tend to "bulge" out a bit.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • troj
    troj Posts: 43
    Since the smallest tyres I run now are 25mm would a wider rim be a better option?
  • troj wrote:
    Since the smallest tyres I run now are 25mm would a wider rim be a better option?

    Get the FLO 30

    https://whosatthewheel.com/2016/08/21/t ... vs-kinlin/
    left the forum March 2023
  • troj
    troj Posts: 43
    Three questions:
    1. Can they only be sourced outside the UK?
    2. Can they be run tubeless?
    3. What feed back concerning the weight did you get from the guy you built them for? (as they will be over 100 grams heavier than my current SL23 V1's)
  • troj wrote:
    Three questions:
    1. Can they only be sourced outside the UK?
    2. Can they be run tubeless?
    3. What feed back concerning the weight did you get from the guy you built them for? (as they will be over 100 grams heavier than my current SL23 V1's)

    1. yes
    2. I think so, you can ask them directly, they have a forum
    3. Not a concern, most of the time extra weight is less relevant than aero benefits
    left the forum March 2023
  • jdee84
    jdee84 Posts: 291
    Did anyone order those a force rims from the kickstarter page be intersted to hear how they go when delivered and have been used.

    Definitely would have went for them if I hadn't had a set of wheels built at the start if summer
  • jdee84 wrote:
    Did anyone order those a force rims from the kickstarter page be intersted to hear how they go when delivered and have been used.

    Is that happening?
    left the forum March 2023
  • jdee84
    jdee84 Posts: 291
    jdee84 wrote:
    Did anyone order those a force rims from the kickstarter page be intersted to hear how they go when delivered and have been used.

    Is that happening?


    Just had another look there the kickstarter closed last week nad they doubled their target almost so looks like it is
  • jdee84 wrote:
    jdee84 wrote:
    Did anyone order those a force rims from the kickstarter page be intersted to hear how they go when delivered and have been used.

    Is that happening?


    Just had another look there the kickstarter closed last week nad they doubled their target almost so looks like it is

    Good, let's see what happens then... :D
    left the forum March 2023
  • I have a set of wheels based around the Kinlin XR31T, and am very impressed with them. Extremely stiff and robust, without adding any handicap in the climbing department. The 19mm inner rim width means I can run them at an extremely comfortable 75PSI, despite my 85KG's.
    Running them tubes (they are actually tubeless compatible) and with 25mm tyres, the ride experience rivals that of tubs, but without the added complications that running tubular tyres entails.
  • I would not say running tubs is a hassle though. I would agree your set up is good mike brew and can only bettered with tubeless tyres. Just scored 2x gator skin tubs (new), one very good used sprinter tub and 2 NOS wolber 22mm tubs for £60. That will keep me going for a while.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • antfly
    antfly Posts: 3,276
    MikeBrew wrote:
    I have a set of wheels based around the Kinlin XR31T, and am very impressed with them. Extremely stiff and robust, without adding any handicap in the climbing department. The 19mm inner rim width means I can run them at an extremely comfortable 75PSI, despite my 85KG's.
    Running them tubes (they are actually tubeless compatible) and with 25mm tyres, the ride experience rivals that of tubs, but without the added complications that running tubular tyres entails.
    What are they like for getting tyres on and off, any bother ?
    Smarter than the average bear.
  • if you use tubeless rim tape then getting tyres on and off is not a big hassle. Use tubeless tyre levers (flat ones) if you have too.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • apreading
    apreading Posts: 4,535
    Yes, I discovered that recently. My Stans Crest rims were a nightmare to get a tyre on with the Superstar rim tape, or my usual velox cloth tape. Tried some Stans yellow tubeless rim tape and they were fine - MUCH easier. even if you dont need it to run tubeless, I can recommend it. I think it is because its much thinner than other rim tape and there is less friction, allowing for a slightly deeper 'usable' well and for the tyre bead to slide into position easier.
  • antfly wrote:
    MikeBrew wrote:
    I have a set of wheels based around the Kinlin XR31T, and am very impressed with them. Extremely stiff and robust, without adding any handicap in the climbing department. The 19mm inner rim width means I can run them at an extremely comfortable 75PSI, despite my 85KG's.
    Running them tubes (they are actually tubeless compatible) and with 25mm tyres, the ride experience rivals that of tubs, but without the added complications that running tubular tyres entails.
    What are they like for getting tyres on and off, any bother ?


    Having junked the stock rim tapes in favour of adhesive cloth tape(not full width -just wide enough to cover the spoke holes), I found that 25mm Conti's flew on. 23mm tyres migt be slightly tricky, due to the width of the rims....
  • Hello I was trying to get some confirmation about spoke sizing (since, I am uncertain of the hub dimensions) and any other recommendations, before I purchase and do my first build with this setup. I read this forum quite a bit and was hoping to just get a clarification and any criticism.

    Rider Information:
    Weight: 145lbs (65kg)
    Conditions: Road riding during spring, summer, and fall. Probably riding fairly normal. I had a Ksyrium Equipe that just died after 10 years of riding.

    Wheelbuild:
    Rims: Panceti SL23 24f/28r (2x lacing front, 2x NDS, 3x DS)
    Hubs: Hope Mono RS
    Spoke Type: Sapim Race (since I heard Laser windup can be difficult for a noob)
    Front - Calculated: 286.2 mm ~= 286 mm
    NDS - Calculated: 281.4 mm ~=282mm
    DS - Calculated: 288.9mm ~= 290mm(Do I round up if I can only purchase even?)
    Nipple Material: Wheelsmith Brass Nips
    Tire: Schwable Pro One

    Thanks,
    -Greg
  • Gregorio wrote:
    Hello I was trying to get some confirmation about spoke sizing (since, I am uncertain of the hub dimensions) and any other recommendations, before I purchase and do my first build with this setup. I read this forum quite a bit and was hoping to just get a clarification and any criticism.

    Rider Information:
    Weight: 145lbs (65kg)
    Conditions: Road riding during spring, summer, and fall. Probably riding fairly normal. I had a Ksyrium Equipe that just died after 10 years of riding.

    Wheelbuild:
    Rims: Panceti SL23 24f/28r (2x lacing front, 2x NDS, 3x DS)
    Hubs: Hope Mono RS
    Spoke Type: Sapim Race (since I heard Laser windup can be difficult for a noob)
    Front - Calculated: 286.2 mm ~= 286 mm
    NDS - Calculated: 281.4 mm ~=282mm
    DS - Calculated: 288.9mm ~= 290mm(Do I round up if I can only purchase even?)
    Nipple Material: Wheelsmith Brass Nips
    Tire: Schwable Pro One

    Thanks,
    -Greg

    Why different lacing at the rear?
    left the forum March 2023
  • It was from a comment from someone on weightwennies indicating he had better rigidity, but now looking at it I think the comparison was from radial to 2x NDS.

    With 3x rear NDS I get a spoke length of 291 mm, rounding to 292.
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    I've got 20 radial on the front, 28 2x on the rear, seems like a nice balance. Hope hubs, RR440 rims.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava