Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

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  • Thank you,
    Paul.
    Giant Defy 2
    Large bloke getting smaller :-)
  • keezx
    keezx Posts: 1,323
    So, this is probably a stupid idea and question, but, I have a worn rim from a set of handbuilts (specifically DT swiss RR585) and a front disk brake wheel which a knackered rim from a crash....

    Is it a terrible idea to reuse the worn rim to rebuild the front disk wheel?

    The wear indicators have worn off - it's sufficiently worn that I wouldn't ride rim brakes on it again, but just how risky is it if it isn't getting any further wear?

    You might test the rim by pumping 20 PSI more than you intent to.
    If it doesn't fail it's probably OK.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    I have rebuilt xr300 rimmed wheels with the xr31t. Spokes can be reused. I would ride the wheels you till they dead but the xr300 is quite narrow 17mm internal width so moving to the xr31t would make quite a difference. How much of a skin flint are you.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • I have rebuilt xr300 rimmed wheels with the xr31t. Spokes can be reused. I would ride the wheels you till they dead but the xr300 is quite narrow 17mm internal width so moving to the xr31t would make quite a difference. How much of a skin flint are you.


    Thanks for your response.

    I have a set of hand built archetypes arriving today as it goes, but these are destined for my commuter/winter/tourer bike. If i'm blown away by the extra tyre width then i might see if i can push for wider rims on my existing wheels on the race bike. As I've said before, the 17mm wide wheels are fine enough on smooth purpose built race circuits, but can jar a bit on rough tarmac which there is plenty of around in my parts.

    If it were possible (and it sounds like it might be) to just switch the rims over, this would make much more sense to me, than just building a brand new set from scratch and i imagine would save a bit of dosh preventing the WAG from getting too upset with me again.
  • keezx
    keezx Posts: 1,323
    I have rebuilt xr300 rimmed wheels with the xr31t. Spokes can be reused. I would ride the wheels you till they dead but the xr300 is quite narrow 17mm internal width so moving to the xr31t would make quite a difference. How much of a skin flint are you.

    XR300 is 13,6 mm internal so even worse.
  • I have rebuilt xr300 rimmed wheels with the xr31t. Spokes can be reused. I would ride the wheels you till they dead but the xr300 is quite narrow 17mm internal width so moving to the xr31t would make quite a difference. How much of a skin flint are you.

    XR300 is 13,6 mm internal so even worse.


    This is true, they're bloody narrow. They have ultremo tyres on them which helps a bit with comfort, but theyre still pumped up to 105 psi and balloon off the rim. I've tried my new archetypes for the first time this morning and i'm completely sold on the extra width.

    So if i were to upgrade my rims, all i need to find a set of rims with the same internal diameter and spoke count to keep my existing the hubs and spokes? I'd love to go for some pacenti SL23's but the depth of the rim is less than the XR300 which would rule them out. What rim options are out there?
  • keezx
    keezx Posts: 1,323
    Look for 30 mm depth and at least 17 mm internal.
    Closest is Kinlin XC 279 which is good and not very expensive...
    Might need new spokes though....
    Abovementioned XR31T which might be hard to get.
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    I've got a usable pair of Hope Mono Pro3 hubs (32) in decent condition but the rims are shot. I'm thinking about putting some tubeless rims on them for winter training. Any recommendations for rims and spokes?
  • keezx
    keezx Posts: 1,323
    DT Swiss R460 , Sapim Race or similar spokes
  • Looking for a decent weight, tubeless wheelset with a bullet proof Hub that can take the suffering that is our winter roads also something easy for my LBS to change a rim on. I am on Fulcrum Zero two way fits so was thinking of going to Fulcrum 3's 2 way @ £400 so that's the budget or there about. So hit this Handbuilt N00b
  • 964cup
    964cup Posts: 1,362
    Looking for a decent weight, tubeless wheelset with a bullet proof Hub that can take the suffering that is our winter roads also something easy for my LBS to change a rim on. I am on Fulcrum Zero two way fits so was thinking of going to Fulcrum 3's 2 way @ £400 so that's the budget or there about. So hit this Handbuilt N00b
    Stay away from Fulcrums if you want them to be easily serviceable. Get a proper handbuilt wheelset - which will be easy at that price. Pacenti SL23 on White Industries or Hope Evo. I wouldn't bother with expensive aero spokes on a winter wheel, either.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Bloody typo's I meant to type 14mm internal width for the xr31t 300 and the tablet turns that into 17mm.

    The kinlin xr31t is easy to get hold of. I wonder where?

    As for wheels for winter. Cheap rims are needed so forget the pacenti '. Try h plus son archetype or the cheaper kinlin XR31T or the even cheaper XR22T laced to miche primato hubs. Lower cost but reliable and not heavy and that all you need for an all weather set of wheels.if you spend more than £300 for a wet weather set of wheel you need your head looking at. DT Swiss R460 rim is a good choice too but the Xr31t comes in off set drilling for the rear this is a good thing because tubeless tyres can compress rims alot. Mounted a few tubeless tyres to the xr31t and 300N tension drop was recorded. That the ds down to 900N but given the rim is offset the NDS tension is still quite reasonable. The offset Xr22t should be available from the distributor in December.

    White industries t11's hubs will eat up nearly all your budget fat boy roubaix. goose any of the rims mentioned above are a good choice for you.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • This is what I do not understand, am I wrong in thinking its relatively easy for me to send the wheels off for new rims and they are relatively cheap when you compare them to a factory wheelset. So for me spending £120 on rim even for winter seems a reasonable cost.

    Decent hubs have a very long life if looked after? I only seem to get through rear rims and have been forced to buy wheelsets in the past just to replace a rear wheel. I need 23mm as it is to go on Supersix with tight clearance.

    Actually looking at your user name I think I bought hub bearing from you recently!
  • This is what I do not understand, am I wrong in thinking its relatively easy for me to send the wheels off for new rims and they are relatively cheap when you compare them to a factory wheelset. So for me spending £120 on rim even for winter seems a reasonable cost.

    Decent hubs have a very long life if looked after? I only seem to get through rear rims and have been forced to buy wheelsets in the past just to replace a rear wheel. I need 23mm as it is to go on Supersix with tight clearance.

    Actually looking at your user name I think I bought hub bearing from you recently!

    Get yourself some archetypes for you winter build. I just tried them for the first time on my (non evo) supersix, this weekend. You notice the extra rim weight a little bit when spinning up, but they're a joy to ride when up to speed. The stiffness of my supersix used to beat me up over the broken up roads round my way when i was rolling around on my narrow rims.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    The stiffness of all frames I have (13 on the road) beat me up if I ride 23mm tyres at 110 psi on narrow rims without exception.

    For winter the cheapest rim is normally the best. Kinlin offer the XR22t which is wider than the archetype at £20 less. If the Kinlin does not float your boat then for £35 DT Swiss have the R460. Winter wheels only get ridden through crap and the brake surfaces wear more quickly so have really nice rims for that kind of abuse.

    Both of those rims are wide but the archetype is the stiffest of the three. There is always a trade off.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Widgey
    Widgey Posts: 157
    After a set of handbuilt wheels but literally have no idea on where to start.

    Im around 70kgs and will use the wheels through all conditions, around 150 miles per week. Live in Bristol so regularly go up hills but would still like some aero benefit.

    Needs to be 6 bolt disc specific and I run 28mm tyres

    Budget around £350-£450
  • After a set of handbuilt wheels but literally have no idea on where to start.

    Im around 70kgs and will use the wheels through all conditions, around 150 miles per week. Live in Bristol so regularly go up hills but would still like some aero benefit.

    Needs to be 6 bolt disc specific and I run 28mm tyres

    Budget around £350-£450

    This is probably a good place to start looking for good options:
    http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections/road-disc-brake-wheelsets
    Malcolm was very helpful in answering questions for me when I emailed him (he's on the forum as thecycleclinic)
  • Widgey
    Widgey Posts: 157
    Thanks ryanshattered
  • mrb123
    mrb123 Posts: 4,833
    Malcolm built some nice disc wheels for me - Pacenti Sl25 rims with Novatec hubs. About £350 quid including delivery if memory serves me right.
  • Malcolm built some nice disc wheels for me - Pacenti Sl25 rims with Novatec hubs. About £350 quid including delivery if memory serves me right.
    I've got the same wheels - built by a friend of mine - novatec 711/712 disc hubs, SL25 rims, sapim race spokes. Can't fault them, light(ish), strong, fast. Best of all worlds and if/when the bearings are shot you just pop them out and put new ones in. They cost buttons.

    I had to replace the 10sp freehub for an 11sp one and the guy who built the wheels for me said 'that has to be the easiest hub service I've ever seen'.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    What's the point in an over complicated hub. The best hubs are simple ones.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • hypster
    hypster Posts: 1,229
    Malcolm built some nice disc wheels for me - Pacenti Sl25 rims with Novatec hubs. About £350 quid including delivery if memory serves me right.
    I've got the same wheels - built by a friend of mine - novatec 711/712 disc hubs, SL25 rims, sapim race spokes. Can't fault them, light(ish), strong, fast. Best of all worlds and if/when the bearings are shot you just pop them out and put new ones in. They cost buttons.

    I had to replace the 10sp freehub for an 11sp one and the guy who built the wheels for me said 'that has to be the easiest hub service I've ever seen'.

    Is it possible to upgrade the 10-speed Novatec 712 freehub to 11-speed? I was under the impression it wasn't.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Just fit a type b2 11 speed freehub and it will work. They have always been convertible. It is bogus info that says they are not.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • hypster
    hypster Posts: 1,229
    Just fit a type b2 11 speed freehub and it will work. They have always been convertible. It is bogus info that says they are not.

    I did a bit of searching around and it seems the 11-speed freehub is 1.8mm wider than the 10-speed. Won't that make the width of the hub 136.8mm? Not a great deal of difference maybe but just so we are clear what is going on.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Yes the freehub is longer so the small cog will sit a bit closer to the dropout but I have sold hundreds of these now and no one has found it does not work.

    The 11 speed end caps push the hub shell to the right by 1mm but even these are not needed as they will cause the wheel to need redishing a bit. I don't even bother stocking the 10 speed bodies anymore as there is no point.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Tempted by those WTB frequency i19 CX rims Planet X have for 39.99. It seems a good price for a light (417 g) and tubeless rim. The vertical I-beam might help reducing the dreaded tubeless-tension drop that light rims suffer from. They are rated for 28 mm + tyres, so they should in principle be happy with 80 PSI or so... any thought?
    left the forum March 2023
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    The best way to deal with the tension drop with tubeless tyres is to use a off set rim but these are made for disc brake or not imported yet but some kinlin xr31t and xr22t disc brake rims will be turning up soon.

    Those wtb rims are worth a punt they are cheap enough.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Having leaned, thanks, that I've got some Novatec hubs - I was thinking of using them with some DT Swiss R460 rims and maybe exploring road tubeless. These will be the first wheels that I've built and was going to use Sapim race spokes, would these be reasonable choices?
    Look 566
    Dolan Hercules
    Genesis Flyer
    Sintesi 707
    Genesis Aether
    Charge Plug
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    A good choice if you have the a171 f172 hubs otherwise you best enjoy changing bearing if you have f482 rear hub.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.