Handbuilt wheels... the big thread
Comments
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I really don't get this hand built thread, seems to me to be just a thread to slag off factory built wheels on this forum, cue Ugo...
Not entirely sure if this is meant to be taken seriously or is just a wind up/trolling but l'll "bite".
I've got at the moment 7 sets of wheels. 4 handbuilts, 2 factory and a pair that came with my recently acquired GT Grade. Perfectly happy in the main with them all. At the moment l'm looking to supplement the wheels that came on the Grade with a set for purely road use and will then stick a set of WTB Cross Wolfs on the existing wheels for "mixed use ". Looking at what's available seems to me handbuilts hit the ideal balence of cost/performance and more importantly (drawing on the experience of contributors like Ugo and
Malcolm) to get a set of wheels ideally matched to my needs that are easily rebuildable at sensible cost.
Must refrain from posting when drunk, haha.0 -
I really don't get this hand built thread, seems to me to be just a thread to slag off factory built wheels on this forum, cue Ugo...
Everything is generally fine with factory built wheels until something goes wrong. Even getting replacement spokes can be very difficult as often they are of proprietary design to go with proprietary hubs and rims. Even worse, if there is a problem with a hub or rim then the replacement (if even available) often costs more than a new set of wheels.
Handbuilt wheels are usually not as flash as factory wheels but as 2oldnslow says a good wheelbuilder will be able to match the characteristics of the various components to your weight, riding style and budget to produce something specific to your needs. In the event of a problem, any component will usually be readily available and can be fixed in a relatively short time.
When it comes to building and riding your own wheels (like me), then the advantages you get from that is not something you can put a price on.
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"When it comes to building and riding your own wheels (like me), then the advantages you get from that is not something you can put a price on."
totally agree, well hopefully. I've got a trueing stand and an e-book just need to summon up the courage to give it a go
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"When it comes to building and riding your own wheels (like me), then the advantages you get from that is not something you can put a price on."
totally agree, well hopefully. I've got a trueing stand and an e-book just need to summon up the courage to give it a go
Get an old wheel, pull it apart and build it up again. Break the process down into stages and allow enough undisturbed time to complete each stage. Sometimes I just lace wheels up and then leave the tensioning and truing until I have more time. Do not carry on if you are getting bored, frustrated or short of time. You will just rush things and inevitably make a mistake. Building wheels has taught me to be patient at each stage and I am not reknowned for my patience!!0 -
Thanks for that sounds like it might be ideal "therapy" and as you said doubt anything on a bike beats riding wheels you put together yourself0
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I really don't get this hand built thread, seems to me to be just a thread to slag off factory built wheels on this forum, cue Ugo...
I opened this thread when I was a moderator to collect all the information in one thread, rather than having the same topics popping up every single week, as nobody use the search function. If you need information about hand built wheels, this is the place to find it. There is a similar one on LFGSS which has been going for years.
It's just an exercise of tidying up, filing, if you likeleft the forum March 20230 -
Ugo/Cycleclinic, a quick bit of advice if you can help, please. . .
I'm planning on a pair of Archetype/Ambrosio Zenith (Novatech).
I'm 75kg, wheels to be used for TTs, hill climbs, sportives, training.
Just wondering about optimum spoke count. I have hand-builts with 32/32 and 28/32 but having read about Archetype rims thought that maybe 24/28 would be fine? Would I benefit sticking to 28/32? Better insurance for riding home after a broken spoke maybe?0 -
Ugo/Cycleclinic, a quick bit of advice if you can help, please. . .
I'm planning on a pair of Archetype/Ambrosio Zenith (Novatech).
I'm 75kg, wheels to be used for TTs, hill climbs, sportives, training.
Just wondering about optimum spoke count. I have hand-builts with 32/32 and 28/32 but having read about Archetype rims thought that maybe 24/28 would be fine? Would I benefit sticking to 28/32? Better insurance for riding home after a broken spoke maybe?
24/28 will be fine, never seen a broken spoke on a set built decentlyleft the forum March 20230 -
Ugo/Cycleclinic, a quick bit of advice if you can help, please. . .
I'm planning on a pair of Archetype/Ambrosio Zenith (Novatech).
I'm 75kg, wheels to be used for TTs, hill climbs, sportives, training.
Just wondering about optimum spoke count. I have hand-builts with 32/32 and 28/32 but having read about Archetype rims thought that maybe 24/28 would be fine? Would I benefit sticking to 28/32? Better insurance for riding home after a broken spoke maybe?
24/28 will be fine, never seen a broken spoke on a set built decently
Many thanks, Ugo, much appreciated.0 -
Ugo/Cycleclinic, a quick bit of advice if you can help, please. . .
I'm planning on a pair of Archetype/Ambrosio Zenith (Novatech).
I'm 75kg, wheels to be used for TTs, hill climbs, sportives, training.
Just wondering about optimum spoke count. I have hand-builts with 32/32 and 28/32 but having read about Archetype rims thought that maybe 24/28 would be fine? Would I benefit sticking to 28/32? Better insurance for riding home after a broken spoke maybe?
24/28 will be fine, never seen a broken spoke on a set built decently
Many thanks, Ugo, much appreciated.
I'm about the same weight and have Archetypes with Novatec hubs using 24/28 2 cross spoke pattern and they've been great. I've done 2000 miles on them this year so far and only needed a minor bit of truing, but that's probably down to my novice wheel building skills more than anything0 -
28 spoke rears are good for riders a fair bit heavier as ugo said a well built wheel does not break spokes.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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How much does having 15mm thru axle forks limit my hub choice? Can any hub be converted or not?
I'm looking into some hanbuilt wheels for my crossbike. So far some 28h F/R Open Pros built with Hope Evo 2 hubs have caught my eye. Theres a few shops such as Merlin selling them built up but they're 32h and I'd prefer to get them locally. Hope sell a conversion kit for £15 for the front hub.
Miche hubs would be preferred as I like their simplistic approach to maintenance but I'm not sure if coverting the front hub is possible(?)
P.S I have 6 bolt mounted rotors and would rather stick with those.“Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.”0 -
How much does having 15mm thru axle forks limit my hub choice? Can any hub be converted or not?
I'm looking into some hanbuilt wheels for my crossbike. So far some 28h F/R Open Pros built with Hope Evo 2 hubs have caught my eye. Theres a few shops such as Merlin selling them built up but they're 32h and I'd prefer to get them locally. Hope sell a conversion kit for £15 for the front hub.
Miche hubs would be preferred as I like their simplistic approach to maintenance but I'm not sure if coverting the front hub is possible(?)
P.S I have 6 bolt mounted rotors and would rather stick with those.
Open PRO means you can't go tubeless, which is a bit naff for a crosser. Archetype is a better solution and will go tubeless... a tubeless rim will be an even better solution as it won't burp at low pressure
Hope are just as easy to service as Miche, although Miche-sized bearings are typically cheaper to buyleft the forum March 20230 -
How much does having 15mm thru axle forks limit my hub choice? Can any hub be converted or not?
I'm looking into some hanbuilt wheels for my crossbike. So far some 28h F/R Open Pros built with Hope Evo 2 hubs have caught my eye. Theres a few shops such as Merlin selling them built up but they're 32h and I'd prefer to get them locally. Hope sell a conversion kit for £15 for the front hub.
Miche hubs would be preferred as I like their simplistic approach to maintenance but I'm not sure if coverting the front hub is possible(?)
P.S I have 6 bolt mounted rotors and would rather stick with those.
Open PRO means you can't go tubeless, which is a bit naff for a crosser. Archetype is a better solution and will go tubeless... a tubeless rim will be an even better solution as it won't burp at low pressure
Hope are just as easy to service as Miche, although Miche-sized bearings are typically cheaper to buy
Thanks Paolo. Not considered tubeless TBH but it makes sense as I run tubulars on my road bike and find them excellent. Lower pressures for cross would obviously be an advantage.
Can the Miche Syntium hubs be converted for thru axle?“Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.”0 -
Can the Miche Syntium hubs be converted for thru axle?
No idea... you have to ask Malcolm... he buys them direct from the factory... I have never seen themleft the forum March 20230 -
Yes they can run through axles which means I should get the kits. Basically the same hub as the mtb offerings they do.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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After asking few advices on the new wheelsets from Mavic Im back to my idea to have a nice handbuilt sheelset.
85 Kg, ride is a Condor Acciaio for commuting in London (so wet and dry conditions... more wet) and for club rides/long rides in the week ends. Campagnolo Athena 11s groupset.
I am opting for the new Pacenti SL23 to use with the new Schwalbe One tubeless, and Sapim CXray (24F radial/28R 2X).
I am not sure about the hubs. Arrive to consider Hope mono RS, White industries T11 and DT swiss 240s. Virtually they have the same weight but there is a difference in the price. I know it has been asked a tons of times...0 -
Hope are nice enough they have an alloy freehub and good reliability. The white industries t11 are a bit lighter and have a titanium freehub. Overall the Wi industries t11 hub is a better hub with higher bracing angles and higher tension balance but you pay for it though. Dt Swiss 240 hubs have the most reliable bearing and freehub system on the market and with the rim you are choosing and the spoke count the poor nds rear bracing angle does not matter much. The 249 hub set is the most expensive though. I do not consider it "better" than the t11.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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Hi, I'm after some smart winter wheels to replace askiums.
Have some 28/32 Hope RS Mono / DT Swiss / H+ Sons for summer which fit the bill, thinking same build with a cheaper hub?
I'm 87 kg, Campag 10/11 compatibility required.
Thinking Ambrosio or Miche hubs as potential options?
Thanks.0 -
Why do you want cheaper hubs, I would have thought with them being winter wheels you'd want hubs with good seals and decent protection.
May be a set of Record hubs with cup/cone bearings? Or if you want cheap sealed bearing hubs with bearings that can be easily replaced, some model of Novatec would suit. (Ugo can advise on the best model).
Or just use your summer wheels all year round.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
Find me on Strava0 -
Hi, I'm after some smart winter wheels to replace askiums.
Have some 28/32 Hope RS Mono / DT Swiss / H+ Sons for summer which fit the bill, thinking same build with a cheaper hub?
I'm 87 kg, Campag 10/11 compatibility required.
Thinking Ambrosio or Miche hubs as potential options?
Thanks.
Miche are good hubs... I think you should contact menthel on this forum... he might have a set of Miche/Archetype with campag freehub for saleleft the forum March 20230 -
Why do you want cheaper hubs, I would have thought with them being winter wheels you'd want hubs with good seals and decent protection.
May be a set of Record hubs with cup/cone bearings? Or if you want cheap sealed bearing hubs with bearings that can be easily replaced, some model of Novatec would suit. (Ugo can advise on the best model).
Or just use your summer wheels all year round.
Well the LBS did say they'd recommend the same for winter or CX but whilst there's a big part of me that likes smart kit, another doesn't like to see it get wrecked in winter, or worry that I might not clean it religiously every week, though I am not particularly heavy on gear, my askiums have lasted since 2007 for example and only need changing because some of the nipples have corroded and the wheel is out!0 -
Hi, I'm after some smart winter wheels to replace askiums.
Have some 28/32 Hope RS Mono / DT Swiss / H+ Sons for summer which fit the bill, thinking same build with a cheaper hub?
I'm 87 kg, Campag 10/11 compatibility required.
Thinking Ambrosio or Miche hubs as potential options?
Thanks.
great, thanks.
Miche are good hubs... I think you should contact menthel on this forum... he might have a set of Miche/Archetype with campag freehub for sale0 -
Hi, I'm after some smart winter wheels to replace askiums.
Have some 28/32 Hope RS Mono / DT Swiss / H+ Sons for summer which fit the bill, thinking same build with a cheaper hub?
I'm 87 kg, Campag 10/11 compatibility required.
Thinking Ambrosio or Miche hubs as potential options?
Thanks.
Miche are good hubs... I think you should contact menthel on this forum... he might have a set of Miche/Archetype with campag freehub for sale
Nope, the archetype/miche were shimano. The archetype/hope were campagnolo but I replaced the freehub on those for a shimano one.
Miche hubs I have are great, easy to run and keep running. I would very much recommend them- they stand up well to London commuting!RIP commute...
Sometimes seen bimbling around on a purple Fratello Disc or black and red Aprire Vincenza.0 -
Miche hubs just keep going and going drlodge. you can except 8000 miles for the low cost bearings for mixed weather riding. I have a set approaching that and they still feel like new. I have another set that has only seen the most horrendous weather and the bearings are toast after 3000 miles but then again any hub would have suffered the same fate, I think riding through several hub deep floods for a few hundred metres might have done them in. All fixable though.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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Miche hubs just keep going and going drlodge. you can except 8000 miles for the low cost bearings for mixed weather riding. I have a set approaching that and they still feel like new. I have another set that has only seen the most horrendous weather and the bearings are toast after 3000 miles but then again any hub would have suffered the same fate, I think riding through several hub deep floods for a few hundred metres might have done them in. All fixable though.
Thanks, on those numbers they'll last me a good 10 years
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Does anyone have experience of the Novatec D771/772SB hubs?
Building up some Pacenti SL25s and I want the option of having a 9mm front/10mm rear thru bolt (DT Swiss RT thru bolt) and I understand that the Novatec hub caps are interchangeable to allow this?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/dt-swiss-rws-thru-bolt-alloy/rp-prod81162?gs=1&gclid=CLPNra6W-8cCFYhAGwod_AcDXA&gclsrc=aw.ds
Or does having a thru-bolt really matter and would I be better off going with Shimano CX75 hubs and quick release?0 -
Are you hoping that a DT Swiss end cap will fit a novatec hub.
Thru axles are not essential it sound like you are building wheels before you have a bike. If you have a frame and fork for std Q/R's then why change it. That frame and fork could last you the next 10 years or more in which case the wheels will be worn out by the time you need to change the frame/fork.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Are you hoping that a DT Swiss end cap will fit a novatec hub.
Thru axles are not essential it sound like you are building wheels before you have a bike. If you have a frame and fork for std Q/R's then why change it. That frame and fork could last you the next 10 years or more in which case the wheels will be worn out by the time you need to change the frame/fork.
Novatec end caps to convert to 9mm front/10mm rear. Then using the DT Swiss RWS 9mm/10mm thru bolt which is compatible with quick release dropouts. Stiffer and more secure?0 -
What's not stiff and secure enough in normal road use?0
