Handbuilt wheels... the big thread
Comments
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Any thoughts on my hub/spoke/rim choice now that I'm confused about the nipple choice.
Yes, my thought is that you can't race with a disc bike as it's not UCI legal for road racing
That ha crossed my mind but I didn't think it'd matter for local road race stuff??
it does matter, the rules are the same
I have investigated, and you are correct!
I'll have plenty time to get race sharp whilst waiting for discs to become legal then.
Any thoughts/opinions on the hub/rim/spoke choice Ugo??0 -
Any thoughts on my hub/spoke/rim choice now that I'm confused about the nipple choice.
Yes, my thought is that you can't race with a disc bike as it's not UCI legal for road racing
That ha crossed my mind but I didn't think it'd matter for local road race stuff??
it does matter, the rules are the same
I have investigated, and you are correct!
I'll have plenty time to get race sharp whilst waiting for discs to become legal then.
Any thoughts/opinions on the hub/rim/spoke choice Ugo??
By the look of it, sounds like a Just Riding Along build, correct?
It's all good, but I don't like aluminium nipples, others do. I feel it is an underengineered component. If you think about it, you have 0.2 grams of an alloy which is not particularly strong and you are attaching the equivalent of a bloke that weighs 130 Kg to it via a spoke, then you make it spin around with cycles of loading and unloading and you expect the 0.2 grams unit to last for at least 400 hours of use, often more... and that without mentioning the fact that it is exposed to corrosion from water, salts etc. Good luck with that!
left the forum March 20230 -
Any thoughts on my hub/spoke/rim choice now that I'm confused about the nipple choice.
Yes, my thought is that you can't race with a disc bike as it's not UCI legal for road racing
That ha crossed my mind but I didn't think it'd matter for local road race stuff??
it does matter, the rules are the same
I have investigated, and you are correct!
I'll have plenty time to get race sharp whilst waiting for discs to become legal then.
Any thoughts/opinions on the hub/rim/spoke choice Ugo??
By the look of it, sounds like a Just Riding Along build, correct?
It's all good, but I don't like aluminium nipples, others do. I feel it is an underengineered component. If you think about it, you have 0.2 grams of an alloy which is not particularly strong and you are attaching the equivalent of a bloke that weighs 130 Kg to it via a spoke, then you make it spin around with cycles of loading and unloading and you expect the 0.2 grams unit to last for at least 400 hours of use, often more... and that without mentioning the fact that it is exposed to corrosion from water, salts etc. Good luck with that!
Correct on the builder. I have no real preference for their building abilities, just that they had the easiest website to spec the wheels.
Message recd loud and clear on the nipples.0 -
While in principle I would accept ugo's argument on alu nipples in practice though I have used thousands (and many more brass) and only three in one particular wheel that had not seen salt or wet weather have failed. Must have been another issue. I would urge caution with alloy nipples for heavier riders and I dont like using them in those circumstances but other wise they seem fine. the main reason not to use them is that they cost more and save little weight but the weight saving of a 14mm aluminium nipple over a 12mm brass nipple is 0.7g per nipple (vs 0.2g that ugo has claimed) so it does add up but is still small. With thinner spokes though like lasers it does make building easier. With sapim race spokes it no different.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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While in principle I would accept ugo's argument on alu nipples in practice though I have used thousands (and many more brass) and only three in one particular wheel that had not seen salt or wet weather have failed. Must have been another issue. I would urge caution with alloy nipples for heavier riders and I dont like using them in those circumstances but other wise they seem fine. the main reason not to use them is that they cost more and save little weight but the weight saving of a 14mm aluminium nipple over a 12mm brass nipple is 0.7g per nipple (vs 0.2g that ugo has claimed) so it does add up but is still small. With thinner spokes though like lasers it does make building easier. With sapim race spokes it no different.
I did not claim a 0.2 grams weight saving... I said they do weigh 0.2 grams, read again...left the forum March 20230 -
Does anyone have any experience of Kinlin 31T rims?
I'd be looking to use them with clinchers in the first instance, but maybe consider tubeless at some point.0 -
Advice. Remember my pacenti had some loose weld sleeves? So, I didn't use superglue or foam. Used a bit of no nails. A small bit. 2g max. The wheels always felt a bit weird before but I keep getting the impression they may not be round. So, no nails causing this or not round?
https://youtu.be/Sth1MgFZH0IMy blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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Advice. Remember my pacenti had some loose weld sleeves? So, I didn't use superglue or foam. Used a bit of no nails. A small bit. 2g max. The wheels always felt a bit weird before but I keep getting the impression they may not be round. So, no nails causing this or not round?
https://youtu.be/Sth1MgFZH0I
Talk to JRA, if you got them from them... I am sure they will be able to sort itleft the forum March 20230 -
Moonglu but, I will. Should be easy to sort I hope.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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Removed the no nails with a bit of hot water and a hosepipe. All blown out. Wheel still as bad, so nothing I've done. Odd. Don't have a jig but put a level on the frame and moved the wheel. Appears to be absolutely round. All I can think is that the rim is not perfectly weighted at one point.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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Valve hole? Never ceases to amaze me (doesn't take much) that a wheel will settle (for me anyway) with the valve hole at the "12 o'clock" position when in the truing stand. Surely it wouldn't have this much effect? Would the initial pedalling action have an effect? It does settle down after all... IANAE (can you tell?) just curious about this myself.0
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There will presumably always be some imbalance because of the join, which might be welded or pinned, the valve hole and/or the valve when inserted. This looks like more than that though - seems to be shaking things quite severely...0
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It seems to settle at lower revolutions. So, the imbalance must be small and only becomes feelable at higher speeds. I sometimes feel it when coming down a hill for example. Hence why I tested. Could be the valve hole but I've never seen a wheel quite so jumpy.
A reflector is, imo, fairly heavy and doesn't seen to produce quite so much of an effect
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwUmhwzE9mkMy blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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Have you tried swapping tyres?
There are no tyres on the wheel!My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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Does anyone have any experience of Kinlin 31T rims?
I'd be looking to use them with clinchers in the first instance, but maybe consider tubeless at some point.
I built a set recently, rims purchased from DCR. I am currently running them as clinchers but taped them with stans and plan on trying them tubeless in the future. Ended up being 24h front 24 hole rear (reference im 69kg). Was going to do 24/28 but sourced a cheap 24h powertap so decided to give it a try. Was a little worried because the older powertap hubs have terrible flange spacing, which was a reason I went with the kinlin because they are one of the stiffest wide alu clinchers around. It was my first time doing a full wheel build and they built up nicely with no issues.
I have put 1000+km, hard km's too (a few crit races, sportives, a week in the alps) and although ideally I would want something lighter they have been great. Couldn't be happier.
If I could afford it I would love some new gen pacenti SL23 with light hubs, in 24/28 they would make a great all round wheel set. Sub 1500g, wide and plenty durable.
More info in this thread http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=113&t=74564&start=51150 -
Tried my other Pacenti Sl25. They do it a very very tiny bit on my Ritchey (no tyres).
Tyres ON on the (bouncy) SL25's and they do calm down a bit. Still makes the saddle jump off the floor at very high revs but, I guess, since they will be predominantly CX wheels, shouldn't worry too much.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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Tried my other Pacenti Sl25. They do it a very very tiny bit on my Ritchey (no tyres).
Clearly a better set of wheels...
A tiny bit is normal, a lot is notleft the forum March 20230 -
I have found with many tyres on the SL25 you have to over inflate to get them to seat properly otherwise the tyre has a low spot. I presume it is not that.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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I have found with many tyres on the SL25 you have to over inflate to get them to seat properly otherwise the tyre has a low spot. I presume it is not that.
There are no tyres on in the video!My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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After building some kinlin wheels for winter use I'm now thinking ahead of building a nice lightweight pair of wheels for best.
Just wondering what a good rim to use might be? I'm 75-85kg dependant on beer consumed. Primarily for use on fast club runs, sportives and alpine trips.
Appreciate any input. Cheers,0 -
Taking my wheel into the LBS tomorrow to see if they can shed any light on it. Rode on it today, sketchy at 30 mph.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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Taking my wheel into the LBS tomorrow to see if they can shed any light on it. Rode on it today, sketchy at 30 mph.
What does Moonglu say about it?left the forum March 20230 -
They've no idea.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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LBS say perfectly round, perfectly true and likely an imbalance in the rim. Which is within tolerances.
Sigh.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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LBS say perfectly round, perfectly true and likely an imbalance in the rim. Which is within tolerances.
Sigh.
Should have got those HED plus... 8)left the forum March 20230 -
I might just sell the set on ebay. After all they have the LBS seal of approval and are normal.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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I might just sell the set on ebay. After all they have the LBS seal of approval and are normal.
Personally, I wouldnt do that. Its not very fair for the person buying it unless you are open about the issue, in which case probably nobody will buy it! Anyone who did buy it will quite probably come back to you complaining and leaving negative feedback and you may have to refund them and cover the shipping both ways, even if you can argue that LBS said it was OK. Just not worth the aggro. Especially now that there is a trail (with a video) on the internet about it...!
Personally, I would just write it off as a bad experience and get it re-rimmed (while hoping that the new rim is better!).0 -
And if it's "within tolerance" then I'd seriously think about specifying another rim!Trail fun - Transition Bandit
Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
Allround - Cotic Solaris0 -
And if it's "within tolerance" then I'd seriously think about specifying another rim!
I think that goes without saying! Puts me off either SL25 or your wheel builder, or possibly both...0
