Handbuilt wheels... the big thread
Comments
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I might just sell the set on ebay. After all they have the LBS seal of approval and are normal.
Personally, I wouldnt do that. Its not very fair for the person buying it unless you are open about the issue, in which case probably nobody will buy it! Anyone who did buy it will quite probably come back to you complaining and leaving negative feedback and you may have to refund them and cover the shipping both ways, even if you can argue that LBS said it was OK. Just not worth the aggro. Especially now that there is a trail (with a video) on the internet about it...!
Personally, I would just write it off as a bad experience and get it re-rimmed (while hoping that the new rim is better!).
I missed out my sarcastic winky. That's the issue, isn't it. They're clearly not correct, yet even my LBS says that it's normal for a bike with no weight on it to do that. When I explained that I can feel it while riding, they said nothing.
It's easy, in principle, to get it re rimmed. At a cost of £80 or so. But, clearly I'd have to get both done. And would avoid SL25 as well.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
Facebook? No. Just say no.0 -
The problem with this it is likely to be resonance effect. To determine this you need to put the wheel into a different bike and ride it at speed. If it is a resonance effect then switching bikes with the same wheel will result in it going away. If the wobble persists then it is the wheel.
Miche do balancing kits which may help a bit. Personally I would consider a rim that is unbalanced enough to cause wobble a warranty issue. I cannot say for certain but I suspect evolution imports would agree and supply a new rim. They agreed that with me for a rim that cracked after 6 months of use.
So don't sell it. Either get it re rimmed (but don't pay) your wheel builder should be helping here or try the wheel balancing kit. What it isn't is normal so don't take that answer.
Built with lots of sl25 rims and this is not a issue I have encountered yet so don't loose confidence in the rim yet it a good one well yours are not but in the main they are.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Thanks!
They're speaking to Evolution on my behalf. Hopefully it should get sorted. I'm fortunate to have Ugo's SL25's to compare and those things are true as a very very true thing.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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Nothing yet but I did use them for a 20 odd off road trip yesterday. They were absolutely fine for that. Perhaps, given it's a CX bike, I should not worry.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
Facebook? No. Just say no.0 -
This is the problem with want perfection it can blind you to what is acceptable. If you cannot notice when riding it is not a problem. I thought you could feel wobble when riding I must have misunderstood.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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This is the problem with want perfection it can blind you to what is acceptable. If you cannot notice when riding it is not a problem. I thought you could feel wobble when riding I must have misunderstood.
Yes, on the road at 30. You'll never feel that off road.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
Facebook? No. Just say no.0 -
Sorry for minor thread-hijacking, but can anyone recommend a wheel builder in central Scotland (Edinburgh, Glasgow or a sensible drive away) who will build a pair of new carbon tubular rims (supplied by me) onto hubs (used, and also supplied by me, and including a rear Powertap G3) using cx-ray or DT Aerolite spokes (supplied by them or by me if necessary)?
Wheelsmith won't build with customer supplied parts. Must be any number of small shops who would do this at a pinch, but looking for sound recommendations!0 -
You are after a shop that builds form time to time then. Better of building yourself you could do a better job. Done the customer supplied parts thing before it ends up costing me time as there have been issue with rims. Simply not worth the trouble.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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Good point, it's about time I learned to build my own wheels! The problem is that whenever I need it done I don't want that pair to be my first attempt...You are after a shop that builds form time to time then. Better of building yourself you could do a better job. Done the customer supplied parts thing before it ends up costing me time as there have been issue with rims. Simply not worth the trouble.
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Thanks for the tip!0
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As cycleclinic mentioned, have a go at doing it your self neeb.
I recently built up my first set from scratch with Power tap rear. Just took my time and everything went well.
What spoke count you looking at using?
What tubs have you sourced, depth and width? I am looking to buy some Chinese carbon tubs at the moment as well.0 -
Hi, does anyone know if I'll have any clearance issues using pacenti sl23 rims on a giant tcr advanced (2012). Tyres will be pro4 or vredstein senso (formally Tricomp) 23mm
Cheers
Gazif it ain't rainin.....it ain't trainin
Stick your 'rules' up your a%se0 -
I'm happy to start a new thread if this isn't in the right place but rather than do so, I'll put my question in here first.
I'm going to build my first set of wheels and would like some advice on selection of the components so I can start to look around the internet for them. The wheels will be used on a hybrid bike solely used for commuting. They need to be bulletproof/strong because the bike has a rear rack which has two panniers attached and having to true them or change spokes regularly isn't what is wanted (though I appreciate part of this is down to build quality).
Other criteria are that the hubs should require minimal servicing and the total cost shouldn't be prohibitive when considering the bike is intended for utility purposes and not performance or aesthetics. The bike is currently 8 speed with disc brakes and finally, it should be suitable to take a 700C X 32 tyre.
I can't think of any other information you may require to help but any suggested rim/hub/spoke combination which would meet my criteria would be appreciated.0 -
There are a myriad of options and you don't give details for budget or rider weight etc. but the following would give a relatively inexpensive if unexciting set of wheels which should last a long while and be readily available.
Mavic A319 rims take 28-47mm tyres
Shimano Ultegra hubs - ball bearing races so easy to service
36 DB spokes laced 3x F&B0 -
I was planning to get some Reynolds Assault SLG tubular rims (the new wider ones, 41 deep with external nipples) from Wheelbuilder in the States and build them up 20 radial at the front and 24 2x at the back. I already have a 24 hole Powertap G3.As cycleclinic mentioned, have a go at doing it your self neeb.
I recently built up my first set from scratch with Power tap rear. Just took my time and everything went well.
What spoke count you looking at using?
What tubs have you sourced, depth and width? I am looking to buy some Chinese carbon tubs at the moment as well.0 -
Rider weight is currently around 78 kg then you could add another 7-8 kg daily for the panniers for my daily work commute or a very occasional 10-15kg if I use them for shopping. Budget is inexpensive but would pay a little more for strength and reliability.There are a myriad of options and you don't give details for budget or rider weight etc. but the following would give a relatively inexpensive if unexciting set of wheels which should last a long while and be readily available.
Mavic A319 rims take 28-47mm tyres
Shimano Ultegra hubs - ball bearing races so easy to service
36 DB spokes laced 3x F&B
I've forgotten a couple of very important detail - the bike is currently 8 speed with disc brakes.0 -
I was planning to get some Reynolds Assault SLG tubular rims (the new wider ones, 41 deep with external nipples) from Wheelbuilder in the States and build them up 20 radial at the front and 24 2x at the back. I already have a 24 hole Powertap G3.As cycleclinic mentioned, have a go at doing it your self neeb.
I recently built up my first set from scratch with Power tap rear. Just took my time and everything went well.
What spoke count you looking at using?
What tubs have you sourced, depth and width? I am looking to buy some Chinese carbon tubs at the moment as well.
That is a very expensive route...
Do they ship them to Europe?left the forum March 20230 -
Yes, I think so. Fairly expensive I suppose but even with tax still much cheaper than buying a new set of even non-powertap branded carbon wheels given that I already have the hubs. Open to suggestions of other options of 40ish deep, wide, light rims with good braking performance and modern aero profile. I've used Reynolds before and like/trust them, but haven't considered Chinese options TBH as the whole thing seems like a bit of a minefield. Seems that none of the big manufacturers actually sell carbon rims (as opposed to wheels) in the UK.That is a very expensive route...
Do they ship them to Europe?0 -
Seems that none of the big manufacturers actually sell carbon rims (as opposed to wheels) in the UK.
... or anywhere else. I don't know what the deal is with Wheelbuilder.com but I am not sure they are allowed to sell these things abroadleft the forum March 20230 -
For the ENVE rims they do say that they are not allowed to sell them abroad, but not for Reynolds. I know that they will ship their wheels internationally (although again, not ENVE).
Seems that some manufacturers allow a select one or two wheel builders in the States access to their rims, but nobody else... Why?0 -
I would probably just get the Reynolds wheels from a UK source and maintain them yourselfleft the forum March 20230
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I would if I didn't need the powertap rear. I could buy the wheels, rebuild the rear on the PT and sell the supplied hub, but that would be costlier. That's how my current tubs came about but they are old school, narrow V profile rims (Reynolds 46). With my alloy clinchers I did notice a big difference switching to wider rims on UK roads. It's not such a big deal with the tubs though as I can run them at lower pressures without really risking pinch flats. Although the new Reynolds rims should also be significantly better in crosswinds (the 46s are a bit dodgy on blustery descents).I would probably just get the Reynolds wheels from a UK source and maintain them yourself
I'll probably just stick with what I've got. Just getting an upgrade itch I'd be best trying to ignore.. 0 -
I'll probably just stick with what I've got. Just getting an upgrade itch I'd be best trying to ignore..
Get new tyres, normally does the trick and scratches the itch at a lower cost... if you are poor like me, get new inner tubes or something...
left the forum March 20230 -
Just gave my steel bike a really good clean so it is all shiny and new looking... Might keep me going for a few days..
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Looking now at my very first build:
Thinking of putting together a budget set of road disc wheels with these:
Pacenti CL25 rims, 28H £30 ea
Novatec 711/712 hubs, 28H, currently on order from China, £55
DT Swiss Comp spokes and brass nipples from Rosebikes.com, £32
£147 total0 -
Looking now at my very first build:
Thinking of putting together a budget set of road disc wheels with these:
Pacenti CL25 rims, 28H £30 ea
Novatec 711/712 hubs, 28H, currently on order from China, £55
DT Swiss Comp spokes and brass nipples from Rosebikes.com, £32
£147 total
The CL 25 are a pain to run tubeless, as they are very loose fit... they are also extremely fragile, so you have to be very careful when you build them.left the forum March 20230 -
Looking now at my very first build:
Thinking of putting together a budget set of road disc wheels with these:
Pacenti CL25 rims, 28H £30 ea
Novatec 711/712 hubs, 28H, currently on order from China, £55
DT Swiss Comp spokes and brass nipples from Rosebikes.com, £32
£147 total
The CL 25 are a pain to run tubeless, as they are very loose fit... they are also extremely fragile, so you have to be very careful when you build them.
Ah, what does fragile mean in this context? I will be running clinchers on them0 -
For the hybrid rider ultregra hubs won't work in a hybrid frame as they are mostly made for 135mm old hubs. Shimano XT are fairly inexpensive and reliable. They will be fine with 8 9 or 10 speed cassettes. A319 rims with dt Swiss alpine spokes rear and dt comps or sapim race front will work very well.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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I mean the nipple bed is not very thick, hence why they are so light. They've got single eyelets, but they are not as effective as double eyelets in spreading the load. Don't go crazy with the tension, 'cause I suspect they won't take muchLooking now at my very first build:
Thinking of putting together a budget set of road disc wheels with these:
Pacenti CL25 rims, 28H £30 ea
Novatec 711/712 hubs, 28H, currently on order from China, £55
DT Swiss Comp spokes and brass nipples from Rosebikes.com, £32
£147 total
The CL 25 are a pain to run tubeless, as they are very loose fit... they are also extremely fragile, so you have to be very careful when you build them.
Ah, what does fragile mean in this context? I will be running clinchers on themleft the forum March 20230 -
Thanks, I'll look into these components a bit more and quite probably have a few more questions once I determine a supplier and availability.For the hybrid rider ultregra hubs won't work in a hybrid frame as they are mostly made for 135mm old hubs. Shimano XT are fairly inexpensive and reliable. They will be fine with 8 9 or 10 speed cassettes. A319 rims with dt Swiss alpine spokes rear and dt comps or sapim race front will work very well.0
