Handbuilt wheels... the big thread
Comments
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Sorry if it's a bit OT but can anyone help with a source of Novatech 712SB 15mm QR adapters ?0
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I have searched ebay "noavtec axle" and look what I found
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-aluminum-Axle-and-end-Cups-for-Novatec-D712SB-QR-MTB-rear-hub-/261751123186?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item3cf1952cf2http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Thanks Malcolm but perhaps I didn't explain myself very well. The wheels I have are standard QR front and rear but I want to convert the front for use on my GT Grade which means a 15mm through axle QR is needed and therefore the corresponding adapters.
Many thanks0 -
Thanks Malcolm but perhaps I didn't explain myself very well. The wheels I have are standard QR front and rear but I want to convert the front for use on my GT Grade which means a 15mm through axle QR is needed and therefore the corresponding adapters.
Many thanks
If they exist, then bdop cycling in Taiwan will have themleft the forum March 20230 -
Indeed they do Ugo was just trying to source some in the UK guess I'll have to order direct
thanks0 -
Indeed they do Ugo was just trying to source some in the UK guess I'll have to order direct
thanks
712 is a rear hub. Are you sure you have the right info. Send me a pic and I'll identify it and point you to the right spares as some of our models are based on nova tech models which we improve for superstar brand parts.
Any question let me know, superstar0 -
Doooh sorry of course it's the adapter for a 711 I need as you say 712 is the matching rear0
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Rather than start a separate thread and risk asking a potentially stupid question. I have read that you can fit an 11 speed Shimano cassette to 11 speed Campag freehub. Assuming this to be true and that a spacer allows a 10 speed Shimano cassette to be fit to an 11 speed Shimano freehub - then does this mean that with a spacer you can fit a 10 speed Shimano cassette to an 11 speed Campag freehub?0
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Rather than start a separate thread and risk asking a potentially stupid question. I have read that you can fit an 11 speed Shimano cassette to 11 speed Campag freehub. Assuming this to be true and that a spacer allows a 10 speed Shimano cassette to be fit to an 11 speed Shimano freehub - then does this mean that with a spacer you can fit a 10 speed Shimano cassette to an 11 speed Campag freehub?
No - sorry, you can't. You can run a wheel with an 11 speed Campag cassette on a bike with a Shimano drive-train - and vice-versa, as the spacing between sprockets in both systems is near identical (so holds true for SRAM too). But the freehub shapes are completely different still. So you have to put a campag cassette on a campag freehub and a shimano/sram cassette on a shimano/sram freehub.
campag:
shimano:
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The D771 hubs can be converted to 15mm tru axles I have the end caps for these hubs but the D711 cannot be converted unless it is the XD711.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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The D771 hubs can be converted to 15mm tru axles I have the end caps for these hubs but the D711 cannot be converted unless it is the XD711.
thanks for that Malcolm seems the (front at least) wheels will have to soldier on on my Sabbath I just had a yen to try them on my GT Grade carbon which has a 15mm QR specific fork. Oh well a good excuse for a new front wheel perhaps.
Many thanks0 -
Looking at some 24f/28r handbuilt 50mm carbon clinchers. Rear lacing is suggested as radial NDS and 2x DS. Hubs would be Hope Mono RS. Any issue with the NDS radial?0
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First why 24F/28R? Deep carbon rims are very stiff and 24R does most riders up to around 90kg. Those over should have them built with triple butted round spokes and that solves the problem. So no gain.
Radial lacing NDS why?. Unless the rim or hub specifically requires this don't bother.
24H/28H 50mm carbon rims are chinese specials or ENVE if you have the money but I really dont see the point.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Thanks for the reply.
I'm not an expert so had assumed that as I'm 105kg the extra spokes would be advisable. The likes of FFWD wheels use a 24f/28r for cross/clyde wheels so I made the leap. I note what you say about triple butted spokes.First why 24F/28R? Deep carbon rims are very stiff and 24R does most riders up to around 90kg. Those over should have them built with triple butted round spokes and that solves the problem. So no gain.
Personally I've no idea why hence my question but was told a radial NDS produces a stiffer build than a 2x and therefore that was why the radial NDS was normally specced. Even if there is no benefit to radial NDS is there actually a problem with this pattern?Radial lacing NDS why?. Unless the rim or hub specifically requires this don't bother.0 -
The down side to radial NDS though is the spokes are more likely to unwind. 0x in theory is slightly stiffer latteraly than 2x but not by anything you would notice. I would only use radial NDS is the hub or rim demanded it otherwise there is no gain.
At 105kg you maybe past the weight limit for the rim. It is not the stiffness of the rim that matters here but the thickness of the spoke nipple bed. I am uncertain what carbon rim would suit as I have never done a set for a rider like you but a 24F/28R is not a bad start with triple butted spokes. I would look at the BLB notorious rims, they are heavy but I think they have a substanial spoke nipple bed. The rims are not wide either. Tubular rims would be an even better bet.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
At 105kg you maybe past the weight limit for the rim. It is not the stiffness of the rim that matters here but the thickness of the spoke nipple bed. I am uncertain what carbon rim would suit as I have never done a set for a rider like you but a 24F/28R is not a bad start with triple butted spokes. I would look at the BLB notorious rims, they are heavy but I think they have a substanial spoke nipple bed. The rims are not wide either. Tubular rims would be an even better bet.
One can always use rim washers to strengthen the area.
I have built BLB Notorius rims which are indeed very strong (28 and 32 drilling only). Main problem is they are still narrow 19 mm rims, which won't give the OP any substantial advantage over modern wide alloy rims in terms of aerodynamics once the tyre is fitted. The latter are of course significantly cheaperleft the forum March 20230 -
I am looking at buying some rims to build up a set of predominately dry weather wheels and have my eyes on the Pacenti sl23 rims and pairing them with some DA 9000 hubs.
At 72kg would I be fine on a 24/24h set up using Sapim Laser spokes?
Wiggle currently have the DA 9000 front and rear hubs at £74.58 and £154.63 which seems to be the cheapest that I can find anywhere.
Does anyone have any thoughts on where I can get the Pacenti rims cheapest in the UK?
Conversely, anyone have any experience on how a DA & Pacenti built would compare to the SSC Pacenti and Volta Evo build:
http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/pacenti-sl23-volta-evo-wheelset.htm
Considering the cost of the rims at around £85+ each, do the Volta's represent good value or would I be better off long term with the DA hubs from a servicing perspective?0 -
you can get 18H front DA hubs and an 18F/24R build would be fine as would a 24F/24R but the front does not need as spokes as the rear wheel. Most wheel builders will supply all the parts you need and labour for a sensible price with after care.
If you are buying all the bits yourself you might as well build them yourself.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
DA hubs are perfection if you service them the mileage they will do is silly. Superstar volta hubs are your typical light weight hubset. they used to use novatec internals which is not encouraging as the F482 SB hub is not renowned for being reliable. I have tried SKF and INA bearings in the F482 hub it did not help. So given Superstar do not say what bearing size are in the hub I would steer clear. The only reliable hub with small 6802 bearing is the white Industries T11 but these are very expensive but they work well for a long time before the bearings need changing.
the volta hubs is not cheap either and for £140 you might as well get DA hubs also the front is only available as 20H and 28H I think. Even Miche hubs at half the price (of a rear volta hub) for a pair are 435g and are probably more reliable (in fact I would say they are given the bearing sizes). They may be 100g heavier but its 100g.
So with Miche hubs can have 20F/24R or 24F/28R with DA hubs you can have 18F/24R or 24F/28R with the Pacenti rims.
If you are spending £200 on hubs then the only other hub that makes sense is Hope Mono RS but I would spend a bit more and get DA9000. Super star sell there own hubs because they get to mark them up well and make actual money also have the superstar brand in the wheels they sell does make buisiness sense but it does not make it a better hub.
I am not trying to do superstar down but I have been round this light hubset route and the only one that has proved itself is the not so light but expensive white industries T11 (345g). The DA hubs are a bit heavier (370g) but perfect. dont forget Campagnolo record in 32H they are 345g and uttlerly wonderful. Cheap too as they go for £170/pair these days.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Thinking about getting some handbuilt wheels to replace the cheap stock ones i currently run. Thought this would be a good place to find out more, but to me it really is all jargon....
Looking for something equivalent to mavic kysriums elite s http://www.wiggle.co.uk/mavic-ksyrium-elite-s-alloy-clincher-wheelset/
but i dont have a clue where to start...... does anyone know of any handbuild equivilants or online shops who could help??0 -
Any comments on the below build before I press the button??
100kg (195cm)
Riding a Giant Defy Advanced Pro 1
Novelty of Sportives wearing off and toying with the idea of some local road races.
Hope Pro 2 Evo 32h red
Hope 11 speed Shimano road freehub
H Plus Son Archetype black 32h
Sapim D-Light black
spoke lacing pattern 1 x 3 cross
spoke nipples red aluminium
With a 28h front of the same set up.0 -
Any comments on the below build before I press the button??
100kg (195cm)
Riding a Giant Defy Advanced Pro 1
Novelty of Sportives wearing off and toying with the idea of some local road races.
Hope Pro 2 Evo 32h red
Hope 11 speed Shimano road freehub
H Plus Son Archetype black 32h
Sapim D-Light black
spoke lacing pattern 1 x 3 cross
spoke nipples red aluminium
With a 28h front of the same set up.
Apart from the fact that I hate the loud noise that Hope hubs make when freewheeling, I personally wouldnt use alu nipples - for the minimal weight saving, they just dont seem worth it to me. I know that anodised ones have improved compared to the older ones that used to corrode, but I have seen more than one occasion when they sheared mid-ride and talk of them rounding off and not being able to be adjusted. Brass all the way for me.0 -
I know that anodised ones have improved compared to the older ones that used to corrode, but I have seen more than one occasion when they sheared mid-ride and talk of them rounding off and not being able to be adjusted. Brass all the way for me.
They've always been anodised.left the forum March 20230 -
I know that anodised ones have improved compared to the older ones that used to corrode, but I have seen more than one occasion when they sheared mid-ride and talk of them rounding off and not being able to be adjusted. Brass all the way for me.
They've always been anodised.
Not according to Sapim: http://sapim.be/choose-the-right-product
"This changed in the last years drastically. All our aluminum nipples are now anodized"0 -
I know that anodised ones have improved compared to the older ones that used to corrode, but I have seen more than one occasion when they sheared mid-ride and talk of them rounding off and not being able to be adjusted. Brass all the way for me.
They've always been anodised.
Not according to Sapim: http://sapim.be/choose-the-right-product
"This changed in the last years drastically. All our aluminum nipples are now anodized"
I had red DT Swiss alloy nipples in 2005... red = anodisedleft the forum March 20230 -
Was my last post on this thread deleted? I was hoping to get advice before making a big purchase (for me) on a wheelset, or getting a custom set built. I mentioned Alto Velo because they caught my attention and I want to know if any of you have tried them. Not sure what I'm doing wrong here, but this forum isn't very helpful at all...0
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Was my last post on this thread deleted? I was hoping to get advice before making a big purchase (for me) on a wheelset, or getting a custom set built. I mentioned Alto Velo because they caught my attention and I want to know if any of you have tried them. Not sure what I'm doing wrong here, but this forum isn't very helpful at all...
Possibly because This is the handbuilt wheels thread and Alto Velo are not hand built?
Any thoughts on my hub/spoke/rim choice now that I'm confused about the nipple choice.0 -
Any thoughts on my hub/spoke/rim choice now that I'm confused about the nipple choice.
Yes, my thought is that you can't race with a disc bike as it's not UCI legal for road racingleft the forum March 20230 -
Any thoughts on my hub/spoke/rim choice now that I'm confused about the nipple choice.
Yes, my thought is that you can't race with a disc bike as it's not UCI legal for road racing
That ha crossed my mind but I didn't think it'd matter for local road race stuff??0 -
Any thoughts on my hub/spoke/rim choice now that I'm confused about the nipple choice.
Yes, my thought is that you can't race with a disc bike as it's not UCI legal for road racing
That ha crossed my mind but I didn't think it'd matter for local road race stuff??
it does matter, the rules are the sameleft the forum March 20230
