Road tubeless tyres, where and how much?
Comments
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http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/schw ... set-531248
Shwalbe Pro ONE 25c in singles and pairs. in stock 11/05/2016Ritchey Road Logic - Focus Izalco Chrono Max 1.0 TT0 -
Ok great thread but still a bit confused :oops:
I am thinking about going tubeless using my tubeless compatible Pro Lite Revo wheels. Can I use any tyre? For example I am running 28c Conti Four Seasons - can you run them tubeless? If not been looking at the Hutchinson Sector 28 - does anyone have anything good or bad to say about these tyres?
Cheers0 -
I think some standard tyres can be run tubeless,think it's down to the tyre construction.
I've been running the tubeless and they have been great so far;IRC are well regarded too.Ridley Helium SL (Dura-Ace/Wheelsmith Aero-dimpled 45 wheels)
Light Blue Robinson(105 +lots of Hope)
Planet X XLS 1X10(105/XTR/Miche/TRP Spyre SLC brakes
Graham Weigh 105/Ultegra0 -
solboy10 wrote:Ok great thread but still a bit confused :oops:
I am thinking about going tubeless using my tubeless compatible Pro Lite Revo wheels. Can I use any tyre? For example I am running 28c Conti Four Seasons - can you run them tubeless? If not been looking at the Hutchinson Sector 28 - does anyone have anything good or bad to say about these tyres?
Cheers
No, you need a tubeless tyre. Sector are very good, very durable tyres. I've had mine on since mid February and done around 2500 miles in all weathers... they are still in decent nick. Other more race oriented tubeless tyres are less durable, although they are more supple... Schwalbe ONE or IRC roadlite for instanceleft the forum March 20230 -
90 miles in and quite impressed, although it is the wear and puncture side of things I am looking for an improvement on over and above the Schwalbe offering. Come up smaller than Schwalbe 23mm tubeless but that's handy as I have tight clearances.
http://www.panaracer.com/evo3/0 -
OK so after buying 2 way fit shamal's over a year ago but never going tubeless due to not being able to easily buy a good (gp 4000 level) tyre i was really pleased to be reading this thread and couldnt wait for my tyres to be replaced so i could get in on the act.
I do shorter distance tri's and fast Sunday rides only as the rest of time is spent on a turbo so all i want is performance from my tyre so was dissapointed to find out there is only one IRC formula light left in stock. I called The Cycle Clinic to see when they would be restocked and was a little surprised by his response that they wernt a big seller and he isnt fussed about getting them in again and as he had just put an order in he wasnt going to re stock anytime soon. I understand that he's running a business but as the only retailer of these tyres you'd have thought that he would keep stock of these up so people wanting the (supposed) best tyre had the option.
Im wondering if anyone who has tried the IRC formula has also tried the IRC formula RBCC as well or infact if anyone can give me a review of the RBCC in comparison to the GP4000 s II?
Cheers,
Andy0 -
andy37 wrote:OK so after buying 2 way fit shamal's over a year ago but never going tubeless due to not being able to easily buy a good (gp 4000 level) tyre i was really pleased to be reading this thread and couldnt wait for my tyres to be replaced so i could get in on the act.
I do shorter distance tri's and fast Sunday rides only as the rest of time is spent on a turbo so all i want is performance from my tyre so was dissapointed to find out there is only one IRC formula light left in stock. I called The Cycle Clinic to see when they would be restocked and was a little surprised by his response that they wernt a big seller and he isnt fussed about getting them in again and as he had just put an order in he wasnt going to re stock anytime soon. I understand that he's running a business but as the only retailer of these tyres you'd have thought that he would keep stock of these up so people wanting the (supposed) best tyre had the option.
Im wondering if anyone who has tried the IRC formula has also tried the IRC formula RBCC as well or infact if anyone can give me a review of the RBCC in comparison to the GP4000 s II?
Cheers,
Andy
Well, he said it... they aren't a big seller, so it's cash in the attic. Like many Japanese companies, they don't seem to be fussed about the European market... Panaracer is the same... you either know them because your mate has used them or you don't even know they exist. They are excellent tyres, but people buy what they are told to buy by advertisers and Schwalbe spend more money doing that, so despite their tyres being less good, that's what people buy.
If we were to go out of the EU, many more companies wouldn't bother with the UK market at all.
The last time I had a pair of GP 4000 was probably 10 years ago... that goes to show that I haven't missed them particularly... I don't think they are anything special... people think they are special because Conti tell you so... in fact I remember I liked their budget Grand Prix 24 model more. Vittoria CX were a bit more special, but they punctured so frequently that they are not worth the hassleleft the forum March 20230 -
andy37 wrote:OK so after buying 2 way fit shamal's over a year ago but never going tubeless due to not being able to easily buy a good (gp 4000 level) tyre i was really pleased to be reading this thread and couldnt wait for my tyres to be replaced so i could get in on the act.
I do shorter distance tri's and fast Sunday rides only as the rest of time is spent on a turbo so all i want is performance from my tyre so was dissapointed to find out there is only one IRC formula light left in stock. I called The Cycle Clinic to see when they would be restocked and was a little surprised by his response that they wernt a big seller and he isnt fussed about getting them in again and as he had just put an order in he wasnt going to re stock anytime soon. I understand that he's running a business but as the only retailer of these tyres you'd have thought that he would keep stock of these up so people wanting the (supposed) best tyre had the option.
Im wondering if anyone who has tried the IRC formula has also tried the IRC formula RBCC as well or infact if anyone can give me a review of the RBCC in comparison to the GP4000 s II?
Cheers,
Andy0 -
Just get the Roadlite? Seems to be in stock in both 23 and 25 sizes.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
Find me on Strava0 -
ugo.santalucia wrote:solboy10 wrote:Ok great thread but still a bit confused :oops:
I am thinking about going tubeless using my tubeless compatible Pro Lite Revo wheels. Can I use any tyre? For example I am running 28c Conti Four Seasons - can you run them tubeless? If not been looking at the Hutchinson Sector 28 - does anyone have anything good or bad to say about these tyres?
Cheers
No, you need a tubeless tyre. Sector are very good, very durable tyres. I've had mine on since mid February and done around 2500 miles in all weathers... they are still in decent nick. Other more race oriented tubeless tyres are less durable, although they are more supple... Schwalbe ONE or IRC roadlite for instance
Will a track pump be sufficient to pump them up?0 -
solboy10 wrote:ugo.santalucia wrote:solboy10 wrote:Ok great thread but still a bit confused :oops:
I am thinking about going tubeless using my tubeless compatible Pro Lite Revo wheels. Can I use any tyre? For example I am running 28c Conti Four Seasons - can you run them tubeless? If not been looking at the Hutchinson Sector 28 - does anyone have anything good or bad to say about these tyres?
Cheers
No, you need a tubeless tyre. Sector are very good, very durable tyres. I've had mine on since mid February and done around 2500 miles in all weathers... they are still in decent nick. Other more race oriented tubeless tyres are less durable, although they are more supple... Schwalbe ONE or IRC roadlite for instance
Will a track pump be sufficient to pump them up?
Generally yes, then it depends on the fit to your rimleft the forum March 20230 -
It surprise me that someone is surprised that I should buy a tyre that does not sell. To put it perspective I bought 12 formula light 25mm tyres last year. 4 are on my bikes now(great tyres but too pricey it seems for the U.K market) 7 sold. In that time I have sold 100+ of the RBCC or roadlite tyres. that is a ratio that is not compelling. So what is my incentive again?
the schwable one is one tyre I will not be riding on again. Had two bikes on them and was forever flatting. That happened for the last time last week. As for the sector 28's everyone I know who has used them love them. I might try them next winter.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
I am pretty much committed to not buying anymore Schwalbe One Tubeless just too expensive to run as an everyday tyre and gets unreliable at 1200-1400 odd miles. The S-One was fine in the winter and didn't cut up, held air for a reasonable amount of time and 2500+ problem free miles but not really a tyre I would want to run in the Summer.
I had almost committed to going back to clinchers on the Summer bike, was going to give the IRC tyre a go but my bike went in to my local bike shop for a new headset and PF30 he had a trial order on the Panaracer tubeless so gave them a try. Still happy with them but at this stage I would still be happy with the One's so only time will tell.
The other one I wouldn't mind trialling is the Hutchinson All Season Fusion 5.0 -
ddraver wrote:I'm struggling to decide if I should just splash out on the Atom Galaktic for my Alpine Holiday at the end of the month. just for the full Racer experience...
Not had any but the Fusion 5's Galactik look tasty! Not a bad price either...0 -
Hi Tubeless gang,
I am trying to get some Schwalbe Pro ones on a Pacenti Rim. I tried and they seem quite a tough fit. what is the best guide to follow for getting these onto quite tight rims?
Looking around the internet, there are various methods, fairy liquid on the rims, tyre in hot water before (really?), get rim in centre of wheel and work it...Anybody got a link to good guide or best tips, much appreciated0 -
You should be able to work the tyre with your hands rather than using straps like the video below shows;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4The path of my life is strewn with cowpats from the devil's own satanic herd.0 -
Fairy liquid (I mixed about 1 part FL with 2 parts water) helps to make the surfaces slippery. And you do need get the tyre beads in the middle of the rim where the rim is at its smallest diameter. These tyres can be a tight fit, but normally with some effort and careful working they will go on.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
Find me on Strava0 -
Thanks for these, will give it a go this weekend, cheers0
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Fairy liquid. I just mount them dry and use campag tyres levers or the var rp42500 and use some elbow grease. Preety easy really. Drain the sealant through an open syringe into the valve with the core removed and you tubeless instalation with no mess. It really is not hard.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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The Var lever is also what I use with Pacenti rims. I can recommend the DIY inflator - maybe not entirely necessary but quite fun.0
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If your tyre wont seat with a track pump you have not wrapped enough rim tape round. If the tyre is not a ****ing tight then put more rim tape on until it is tight. Then it will inflate seat and seal with a floor pump.
Alot of the problems people have are down simply not being used to fitting them or wanting them to fit like a loose fitting tubed clincher. It is a different technology and require different methods. Fairly liquid and DIY compressors should not be part of the the tool kit, they are not for me and I dont seem to have trouble.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
thecycleclinic wrote:Fairly liquid and DIY compressors should not be part of the the tool kit, they are not for me and I dont seem to have trouble.
A lubricant of some description is advised pretty much anywhere, including by IRC... Fairy liquid does the job, in moderationleft the forum March 20230 -
Seems a lot of bravado about this. Just because people are unable to seat their tyres without resorting to help (be that fairy liquid or an AirShot/coke bottle or whatever) doesn't make their approach "wrong" surely? Now I have the AirShot I wouldn't do without it. Why struggle with a track pump when you can have it up in a jiffy? Pro mechanics or whatever may have limitless "tubeless fu" but the average home tubeless tyre fitter (while admittedly by definition surely a bit more savvy than most) just wants their tyres up and ready to ride and if that means "cheating" then so be it!
If anyone has seated IRC Roadlites onto Pacenti SL23 rims without "help" then I salute you ;-)0 -
I have just made the switch back to standard clinchers from tubeless, didn't really feel there were worth the extra money & effort. Only had one puncture in the time I was running them (which took me over half an hour to fix - would probably get some plugs if I was continuing with them!) but if anything they were worse than standard clinchers in terms of feel & handling.
If tubeless were available for a similar price & had a similar wear rate to standard clinchers I might've continued with them, but have gone back to Michelin Pro4s.
I will say that the Schwalbe Ones were easy to seat on Ultegra wheels with a track pump. Once you'd destroyed your thumbs & tyre levers getting them on that is.0 -
Hi I need some help. I got myself some new tubeless ready wheels and a pair of IRC roadlites. Got both tyres on the rims no problem and even got them pumped up with a track pump. The rear wheel is now full inflated and has been so for about 8 hours. the front wheel is different story as although the tyre "popped" on there is an air leak at the valve. I have added sealant and there is no sealant leak on the side but the air still leaks from the valve. What can I do ? Should I try using some old tube around the valve ? thanksRidley Fenix SL0
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fat_tail wrote:Hi I need some help. I got myself some new tubeless ready wheels and a pair of IRC roadlites. Got both tyres on the rims no problem and even got them pumped up with a track pump. The rear wheel is now full inflated and has been so for about 8 hours. the front wheel is different story as although the tyre "popped" on there is an air leak at the valve. I have added sealant and there is no sealant leak on the side but the air still leaks from the valve. What can I do ? Should I try using some old tube around the valve ? thanks
Did you spin the wheel?left the forum March 20230 -
ugo.santalucia wrote:fat_tail wrote:Hi I need some help. I got myself some new tubeless ready wheels and a pair of IRC roadlites. Got both tyres on the rims no problem and even got them pumped up with a track pump. The rear wheel is now full inflated and has been so for about 8 hours. the front wheel is different story as although the tyre "popped" on there is an air leak at the valve. I have added sealant and there is no sealant leak on the side but the air still leaks from the valve. What can I do ? Should I try using some old tube around the valve ? thanks
Did you spin the wheel?
yes spun it ... i put about 80 ml of conti sealant
no sealant in the back and it is still inflatedRidley Fenix SL0 -
Its not bravado i just do this all the time and find the solution some suggest are simply not needed. I like no mess or hassle when fitting tyres that all. Irc suggestion of a lubricant is to make the tyre jnstallatio easier bit is adds hassle and mess. I like neither of those and an extra step is not making the tyre fitting easier. Practice does make perfect. I am mearly trying to pass on my experience as i do this most days.
As for your leak on your front wheel it is either the valve not pressed in properly or there is a tear in the tape near the valve hole.
I use a small cross head screwdriver to make a small hole in the tape before i insert the valve. I then put the valve in and use a rubber mallet to ensure it is properly seated. If there is a tear in the tape i pull the rim tape off and start again as i know what will happen. I then screw the collar on tight. I look for no tear or gap around the valve after the valve has been pressed and the collar has been secured. After that then mount the tyre and and put sealant in. 80ml is too much. 50ml is plenty. 30ml is enough though. However 30ml can get dumped on the road before a big hole seals although this paronia comes from when i used schwable one's which overall where a mixed bag.
So first use a pair of pillers to tighten the valve collar and see if that solves the leak. If not pull everything off and start again. As i said practice makes perfect and you will get to the point where you suceed forst time with no mess because you know what is needed at each stage. What you dont need is a piece of old tube at the valve done far to many tubeless setups now to count and extra rubber at the valve has never been needed.
Thegibdog you make not like your tubeless experience but that is because you have been useing the schwable one tyre. Also tubeless is a learning curve. The one is a mixed bag, it holds so much promise but punctures often and grip in the wet is awful. Not all tyres are like this. Irc manage better and the sector 28's are pretty good too. No idea on bontragers tyres and panracer have offers now. You have dimissed an entire technology based on a sample of one. It would be like dimissing all clinchers because you tried the vittoria zaffiro and thought all clichers would be the same. They are not, neither are all tubeless tyres the same. Also stans race sealant is wonderful stuff it plugs holes the size of your valve, which makes getting into the tyre through the valve awkward, but i am learning how to do that now without mess.
To deal with punctures that dont seal.
1) if the tyre is holding 30 psi or so then dont bother fixing you can ride on that for a long time until you get home. Did last tuesdays chaingang on tyres holding 30psi and held a highish solo average speed (35 kph) and when i got home stans race sealant sorted the problem out (zefal sealant had been in there since feb and there was less present than i thought!). Thats not brag i am trying to show tubeless tyres perform even at low pressures without serious issue i was surprised in fact.
2)you can try co2 to re inflate i have found so long as there is enough sealant in the tyre, the sudden pressure increase can force so much sealant into the hole that the hole plugs for good.
3) if you loose all the air dont faff just put a tube in and sort out the tyre at home. Only had to this with the ones though.
Yesterday i put new tyres with tubes on the town bike as it for riding around sudbury picking milk and the like from the local shop. Went out to buy some bread and in the space of half a mile got a puncture and had to replace the tube. So tubes are not better thegibdog.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0