The Scott CR1 SL Thread

itboffin

@daniel_b i think I bought a replacement BB for the CR1 ages ago but for the life of me I can’t remember what model they use and last time I stripped the bike down the current and original was a smooth as butter.

daniel_b

Thanks ME and L2R

Full on day today, Neo service, freehub change and new cassette fitted.
turbo bike service, and new chain and bb.

All re-installed and ready to go.

Decided to tackle the CR1, removed the aging Michelin pro 4 endurance tyres, and in went the Gp5000s.

PRO4 measured at 23mm
Gp5000 measured at 24mm
Just what I was hoping for.

Have also fitted some shiny clear frame protector on the inside of the stays so should help alert any issues and delay damage.
Also, as I have gotten on well with the latex tubes on the Foil, fitted some to this as well, no excuses now!

daniel_b

daniel_b

I do now 'have' to buy 5000s for the Foil, but I'm still torn between 25s and 28s.

It's primarily my speed bike, and strava segment machine, so out and out speed is my requirement.

So what should I go for?

daniel_b

itboffin said:

I’ve been running 25s schwalbe one and vittoria with no issues but that could be down to my narrow ish wheel sets

Missed your 2 posts ITB.
Suspect my Mavic cosmic exaliths have narrow internals too, so that probably strengthens the case for the 28s which will likely come out as 27s, versus the 25 4000s which do come out at 25mm.

So how does it work, I would run them at the same pressure that I run the 25mm tyres at for more or less comfort and more or less resistance?

I get a bit confused with how it is meant to equate.

Anyone seen any good deals?
Best I can see is Mantel, £72 for a pair with tubes.

daniel_b

Just to add, my wheels are Mavic cosmic exaliths, and I think they have a fairly narrow internal rim width, so I'm pondering whether the 28s could be too wide for them?

Assuming they are 17mm internal width, this Schwalbe chart, if to be believed, suggests it should be fine.

itboffin

since cleaning the new drive train for the first time yesterday now the four sprocket rattles when it was beautifully quiet before, when replacing the rear wheel yesterday I very carefully centred it, i suspect it wasnt before when i installed the new groupset.

Super annoying on such a lovely day for a long peaceful ride

daniel_b

That is a pain ITB, strange just the one loan cog - bit of barrell adjusting failed to sort?

Have pretty much decided on the 5000 28mm for the Foil, PBK have them now for £69.99 for a pair + TCB cashback of course - no valid vouchers out there at present that I can see.

Also took the CR1 out for it's inaugral ride on the 25mm 5000s and very nice it was too, went 85\75 and it felt more comfy than it used to on the Michelins, though not sure if I could go a bit lower or not.

It's a strange thing, I tried really hard, and pushed on as much as I could (Though have no power stats to back this up) but was not as fast as on the Foil - now I know the Foil is an 'aero' bike and it has 50mm rims fitted, but I didn't expect it to make that much of a difference, though perhaps I just had an off day.
Conditions were pretty much ideal yesterday, it was warm, with in the main very little wind, and yet the average was nearly 1mph lower than one of my recent rides on the Foil (With similar conditions), and that distance was 50% more!

Ended up going out without any hr, power or cadence, as hadn't twigged the batteries had died in my Vectors.
But pushed pretty hard for the 2 hours, and managed my 3rd best time up a localish 1ish mile climb which I was pretty happy with, as wasn't full gas.
My issue is I am carrying an extra 5+kg over my lightest weight last year when I found hills significantly easier

daniel_b

This may be useful for parts - just posted on a Foil FB page:
https://westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott-parts-finder-i150

itboffin

Dan it was the chain, seems the KMC model i have is directional even though it doesnt say it on the packaging, turning it around whilst out on a ride and its completelty silent again.

daniel_b

itboffin said:

Dan it was the chain, seems the KMC model i have is directional even though it doesnt say it on the packaging, turning it around whilst out on a ride and its completelty silent again.

That was a good find!
Don't think Shimano ones are now, though think they used to be.

itboffin

It just made sense the indexing was all over the place but setup perfectly and as the whole groupset is new there’s no wear, in the past I’ve had a quick link that made a noise one way around but not the other 🤔

daniel_b

@L2R, I think it was yourself who was interested.

I've now had my ceramic bottom bracket fitted, and the best news is that it seems that the stock one WAS the cause of that bl00dy awful creak.
The wheels manufacturing one that I bought off a chap on here is now fitted, and a brief spin on Friday ellicited no creaks of any kind, it feels like a new bike!

The mechanic who fitted it also said the original one was not running very smoothly, so maybe a partial reason why I find it a chunk slower than my Foil.

The only negative, is that if I look down, I can see some red bits from the BB
Which if any of you know my dislike for red, is a bit of an eyesore on my lovely black and yellow bike.
Maybe some yellow vinyl wrap could be applied!
*Joke!

I'm riding an easy 20 miles tonight with a socially distanced friend, so that will be it's first proper outing.

Oh and I have the oval inner as well, be interesting to see how that shapes up, first impressions are that it's fairly subtle, probably as it should be.

itboffin

i really want to change the BB & headset bearings on mine, i have all the parts and tools but not the courage to start smashing a perfectly working carbon bike about

daniel_b

itboffin said:

i really want to change the BB & headset bearings on mine, i have all the parts and tools but not the courage to start smashing a perfectly working carbon bike about

Ah I did not have the tools, but like you, would have been too worried about trashing the frame.
He did say when he took it out, that the BB area was like off a new bike, all still super tight and well shaped according to him - he said he has seen other bikes where the opening had been somewhat compromised, if that doesn't sound too disgusting.

Not sure what happens then, are the frames basically written off?

The bad news is that I stil lhave a creak, though not as bad as it was, maybe 40% of the previous noise - my saddle has been adjusted though, so still a ghost of a chance it is the saddle / seatpost (Ritchey WCS and Arione 00 with wrapped rails) as I notice when out of the saddle there is no creak.

I'll try another saddle first, and see if that makes the difference.

itboffin

Check the QR levers and clean the dropouts I had that as the root cause on my CAAD it drove me mad and made me stop riding it as a result.

I’m pretty sure I need new headset bearings, does anyone know what size & type to replace?

daniel_b

itboffin said:

Check the QR levers and clean the dropouts I had that as the root cause on my CAAD it drove me mad and made me stop riding it as a result.

Interesting, so clean the drop outs, and do anything with the QRs?

I do have to do the rear one up pretty darned tight, as like most of these frames the rear can move about somewhat, and isn't a clear and easy fit to sit centrally.

itboffin

Yep clean and don’t do up so tight

daniel_b

itboffin said:

Yep clean and don’t do up so tight

Thanks ITB, will try that at the weekend - rode it tonight, and seemed to be back to it's creaky best :-(

Good job I asked, my instinct would have been to tighten it up even more.

daniel_b

Having this made up for the CR1 :-)



Not as easy with the Foil, as it's a proprietary (Spelling?) shape.

luv2ride

Maybe showing my age but I couldn't resist this 2Tone record label logo for my top cap

pollys_bott

I had always run 25mm Corsa CX on my CR1 but a while back dug out the pair of Challenge P-R 27mm that I bought from DFS/PX ages ago but had never used. No chance on the rear but there was just enough clearance on the front and... wow! Like a new bike! It actually measures up at 30mm and I run it around 50psi with a latex tube and the difference in comfort is beyond belief. It was always a fast ride but pretty firm, now it’s fast and damn comfortable which makes such a difference on the rougher lanes over Rutland way. Just taken delivery of a pair of Pave in 27mm so will put one of those on the front and see if it’s as good...

luv2ride

^ I bought a Pave 27mm for the front of my CR1 based on the same principal, and having used 25mm Paves on the bike before. TBH, my vernier callipers failed to register much difference between the 25 and the 27mm versions, and any hope I had of the 27mm coming up a little larger wasn't realised. This was on a pair of Zondas

itboffin

Yeah my Vittoria Pave CG 27 measured as 25 on all my wheelsets

itboffin

Does anyone run an integrated bar stem combo on their SL if so which one?

pollys_bott

luv2ride said:

^ I bought a Pave 27mm for the front of my CR1 based on the same principal, and having used 25mm Paves on the bike before. TBH, my vernier callipers failed to register much difference between the 25 and the 27mm versions, and any hope I had of the 27mm coming up a little larger wasn't realised. This was on a pair of Zondas

Yup, the 27mm Pave were just that here too. This is on an old DT Swiss wheelset RR1450 but those Challenge 27s also come up as 30mm on my Hunt 4 Seasons discs (which makes for some fast towpath / fire track riding) so I might just have to splash out for one for the CR1 front.

itboffin

Just ordered a replacement dog fang chain catcher for my SL as i dropped my chain twice on last weeks very fast club ride, i think the continuingly bad roads surfaces are to blame because this bike has been fine since 2012

itboffin

Deda dog fang fitted today after last weeks chain drop on a climb, if anyone’s interested the Scott tapers a bit at the bottom of the downtube so you’ll need a longer screw and they’ll be a small gap on the supplied 34.9 device but it’ll still work, well I hope so as I don’t fancy a chunk of missing carbon around the BB.

itboffin

FFS i recent put my Cervelo R5 up on the wall next to turbo setup and notice a large (5mm) chip in the paint on the stay which must have happened when my chain dropped hence the purchase of dog fang for the Scott, i know its only cosmetic but its bloody annoying, i wonder if i should try and touch it up but with what?

itboffin

Touch up paint pen ordered hopefully i can layer it enough to look less horrible