Carbon 456 owners pictures and spec

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  • JMcP92
    JMcP92 Posts: 339
    Plan thus far consists of parts costing maybe £5,000 in total... I said it was a plan, never said it was realistic...

    Anyway, I've found a rather nice deal on brand new Rockshox Revelation XX World Cup forks, £280 brand new :D:D likely grab me some of those. After that there will be some saving up to be done, the question of bars is more of an xmas thing, see what I can get and such.

    They'd all likely be carbon cycles kit, good quality and not putting too big a hole in the bank account, looking at their 60mm stem which is a carbon aluminium blend:
    http://www.carboncycles.cc/?s=0&t=2&c=90&p=613&
    and then the bars, full carbon (probably 750mm) 31.8 riser bars:
    http://www.carboncycles.cc/?s=0&t=2&c=94&p=1063&

    ...yes, I am a whore for carbon and lack of weight :D

    Further plans? Maybe get some wheels at some point... I hear they're useful
  • £5k? :D wow. Mine is sub £500. But it is a swap not from scratch build.

    Carbon is cool but it doesn't fit with my scheme or budget plan. The carbon cycles stuff is great value though so keep an eye out for there sale. There flat pedals are supposed to be very good (superstar Nano copies).

    Good time for fork deals, and the Revs would be my choice also but stay away from dual position - apparently not as good as single position or u-turn. You also find better deals on the forks with bolt through drop outs 15 or 20mm more often than 9mm qr I found. Just make sure they match your wheelset.

    Will be good to see your progress.

    Paul
    Family, Friends, Fantastic trails - what else is there

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  • JMcP92
    JMcP92 Posts: 339
    I'll likely end up with a dual air fork, They are (minorly) heavier which isn't a concern but they can be harder to tune to get right. To be honest I don't understand why they bother with dual air over single U-turn but it seems to be what is available and it's a decent price so I'm nae gonna complain, do a little tuning and it should be ok.
  • JMcP92 wrote:
    I'll likely end up with a dual air fork, They are (minorly) heavier which isn't a concern but they can be harder to tune to get right. To be honest I don't understand why they bother with dual air over single U-turn but it seems to be what is available and it's a decent price so I'm nae gonna complain, do a little tuning and it should be ok.

    You mean dual position over single u-turn? Yes I don't understand why RS have u-turn and dual position in the range. Seems to me that u-turn would be a better choice but I have no knowledge. Mine are dual air rlt's 150. You can space them down too.
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  • EdW
    EdW Posts: 103
    20121018_233938.jpg

    Here's mine, I scraped the worst of the mud off before I took the pic :wink:
    140mm Revs.
    1 x 10 XT group with Raceface cranks & 36T chainring.
    DT Swiss E2200 wheels.
    700mm Spank Oozy bars & a Reverb.
    Weighs about 25.5 lb
  • lawman
    lawman Posts: 6,868
    JMcP92 wrote:
    Plan thus far consists of parts costing maybe £5,000 in total... I said it was a plan, never said it was realistic...

    Anyway, I've found a rather nice deal on brand new Rockshox Revelation XX World Cup forks, £280 brand new :D:D likely grab me some of those. After that there will be some saving up to be done, the question of bars is more of an xmas thing, see what I can get and such.

    They'd all likely be carbon cycles kit, good quality and not putting too big a hole in the bank account, looking at their 60mm stem which is a carbon aluminium blend:
    http://www.carboncycles.cc/?s=0&t=2&c=90&p=613&
    and then the bars, full carbon (probably 750mm) 31.8 riser bars:
    http://www.carboncycles.cc/?s=0&t=2&c=94&p=1063&

    ...yes, I am a whore for carbon and lack of weight :D

    Further plans? Maybe get some wheels at some point... I hear they're useful

    Saying it's £5k is ambitious :lol: If those forks are from the states as you asked me about, I really can't emphasize enough how bad an idea it is, you will end paying probably double that price once everything adds up, and it really isn't worth it.
  • Since 2008, importing from the US to beat the uk pricing has become uneconomic, which is a shame as UGG boots are a bloody expensive present for the missus ;). Wait for the sales and you'll get a good set of Revs or equivilants under £300.
    Or use the classifieds. Also, warranty is void typically.
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  • Plyphon
    Plyphon Posts: 433
    I am now the proud owner:

    456edit.jpg

    £700 off of a fellow forum member. Very impressed with the build of the frame, and the overall bike is so light.

    Condition much better than I anticipated - hard to explain but in the photos only what i can describe as "carbon flakes" (for lack of the proper word) under the lacquer bounce light all over the place and make it look scratched/scuffed - in reality its all good. (not sure if this is normal?)

    Spec is as follows:

    18" carbon 456 frame
    Rockshox revelation RLT 140mm
    Avid elixir R brakes
    Front wheel: Mavic XM719 on hope pro 2s
    Rear wheel: Mavic XC717 on hope pro 2s
    Fire XC Pro's 2.1 all round.

    XT triple crankset
    XT front mech
    SLX rear mech
    SLX rear shifter
    SRAM X9 front shifter
    SRAM PG990 cassette (with aluminium red spider)
    SRAM chain

    eXotic carbon seatpost
    eXotic 60mm stem and 700mm wide handlebars
    Superstar lockon grips
    Charge spoon saddle

    Stoked :D
  • BlueAdvocate
    BlueAdvocate Posts: 266
    edited December 2012
    Ok so it's starting to look like a bike at last. Got the BB and cranks in; helitaped the down tube and cranks.
    The seatpost, stem and bars are just there to give me an idea (they are the old kit off my Trek).
    20121210_145630.jpg
    Once I decide on a bar/stem combo I can finish the thing.
    Have all my other bits now like the rear mech now (bargain on CRC for the new shadow+) with some Saint pedals.
  • Plyphon wrote:
    I am now the proud owner:

    456edit.jpg

    £700 off of a fellow forum member. Very impressed with the build of the frame, and the overall bike is so light.

    Condition much better than I anticipated - hard to explain but in the photos only what i can describe as "carbon flakes" (for lack of the proper word) under the lacquer bounce light all over the place and make it look scratched/scuffed - in reality its all good. (not sure if this is normal?)

    Spec is as follows:

    18" carbon 456 frame
    Rockshox revelation RLT 140mm
    Avid elixir R brakes
    Front wheel: Mavic XM719 on hope pro 2s
    Rear wheel: Mavic XC717 on hope pro 2s
    Fire XC Pro's 2.1 all round.

    XT triple crankset
    XT front mech
    SLX rear mech
    SLX rear shifter
    SRAM X9 front shifter
    SRAM PG990 cassette (with aluminium red spider)
    SRAM chain

    eXotic carbon seatpost
    eXotic 60mm stem and 700mm wide handlebars
    Superstar lockon grips
    Charge spoon saddle

    Stoked :D

    You've picked up a pretty top bargain there. Great spec, looks good, ready to ride - cant ask for more. And whilst you've just shelled out £700 before Christmas, I'm sure the sales over the festive period can tempt you in to putting your stamp on it for a few quid ;)

    Is there much frame protection on it? What did you decide to do to protect the chainstay?

    Paul
    Family, Friends, Fantastic trails - what else is there

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  • Ok so it's starting to look like a bike at last. Got the BB and cranks in; helitaped the down tube and cranks.
    The seatpost a, stem and bars are just there to give me an idea (they are the old kit off my Trek).
    20121210_145630.jpg
    Once I decide on a bar/stem combo I can finish the thing.
    Have all my other bits now like the rear mech now (bargain on CRC for the new shadow+) with some Saint pedals.

    Wow it's really coming on (making me think that I need to get a move on as all my bits are under my bed :D). The colour is even better in the light of day.
    Have you thought about cable routing/fully enclosed?
    Are you going the inner tube route?

    Also, it looks like you have some spacers stacked but the fork steerer is quite long - will you have to cut?

    Looks great so far

    Paul
    Family, Friends, Fantastic trails - what else is there

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  • Plyphon
    Plyphon Posts: 433

    You've picked up a pretty top bargain there. Great spec, looks good, ready to ride - cant ask for more. And whilst you've just shelled out £700 before Christmas, I'm sure the sales over the festive period can tempt you in to putting your stamp on it for a few quid ;)

    Is there much frame protection on it? What did you decide to do to protect the chainstay?

    Paul

    Yes mate proper good deal.

    "Technically" it only cost me £400 as I'm hoping to sell my previous bike to a friend... ;-)

    It's came helitaped up in pretty much every place that could get scuffed which is handy - however I hate the sound of chainslap so got a extra large slap jacket thing on the way. was like 6 quid on CRC so thought why not.

    I'd like to rebuild the front wheel with a black rim to match the back, but other than that honestly don't think I'll change much for a while. Maybe new brakes.


    The yellow one above looks dope btw.
  • Ok so it's starting to look like a bike at last. Got the BB and cranks in; helitaped the down tube and cranks.
    The seatpost a, stem and bars are just there to give me an idea (they are the old kit off my Trek).

    Once I decide on a bar/stem combo I can finish the thing.
    Have all my other bits now like the rear mech now (bargain on CRC for the new shadow+) with some Saint pedals.

    Wow it's really coming on (making me think that I need to get a move on as all my bits are under my bed :D). The colour is even better in the light of day.
    Have you thought about cable routing/fully enclosed?
    Are you going the inner tube route?

    Also, it looks like you have some spacers stacked but the fork steerer is quite long - will you have to cut?

    Looks great so far

    Paul

    Cable routing - not decided yet what to do yet.
    Chainstay protector - I have some neoprene to make a custom protector with.
    Steerer - waiting on the stem before I cut, I will probably cut 5mm - 10mm longer than I think I need to try it out first; these 16" frames have short head tubes.
  • You'll need more than one chainstay protector if its the usual neoprene type job as the chain will tear it to shreds! The 456 does suffer from chainsuck, the carbon is heavily built around the bottom bracket but I would recommend using an old inner tube with tie clips under the protector. Or you could use frame wrap - good product from biketart.

    Enjoy
    Family, Friends, Fantastic trails - what else is there

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  • Plyphon
    Plyphon Posts: 433
    You'll need more than one chainstay protector if its the usual neoprene type job as the chain will tear it to shreds! The 456 does suffer from chainsuck, the carbon is heavily built around the bottom bracket but I would recommend using an old inner tube with tie clips under the protector. Or you could use frame wrap - good product from biketart.

    Enjoy


    Good tip. I will wrap some tube around that bit also.
  • You'll need more than one chainstay protector if its the usual neoprene type job as the chain will tear it to shreds! The 456 does suffer from chainsuck, the carbon is heavily built around the bottom bracket but I would recommend using an old inner tube with tie clips under the protector. Or you could use frame wrap - good product from biketart.

    Enjoy

    The chainstay protector is really for chain slap; I agree it won't too helpful if chain suck occurs.
    As for frame wrap think I'll give that a miss; may be some inner tube as you say.
    As for chainsuck, the C456 doesn't suffer from chainsuck anymore than any other frame its that the nature of the design means it that even when slight suck happens the impact is for more noticable i.e. it suffers from the effects more.
    In other words what I'm saying is that you get away with it/don't even notice it on other frames.
    I may stick a bolt through the stinger to help knock the chain off the ring; howvever there is very little space between the stinger and chainstay so I don't see how it will get jammed; there could be some dammage yes.
    Good points though thanks.
  • 20121210_145630.jpg


    Now that looks right! Really nice!
  • As for chainsuck, the C456 doesn't suffer from chainsuck anymore than any other frame its that the nature of the design means it that even when slight suck happens the impact is for more noticable i.e. it suffers from the effects more.
    In other words what I'm saying is that you get away with it/don't even notice it on other frames.
    I may stick a bolt through the stinger to help knock the chain off the ring; howvever there is very little space between the stinger and chainstay so I don't see how it will get jammed; there could be some dammage yes.
    Good points though thanks.[/quote]

    You've explained it better than me in that sentence - it can suffer the effects of chainsuck where other frames have no or little effects from chainsuck :7)

    With the stinger and a bolt-thru I guess it's about as much as you can do really. The colour of your C456 is getting cooler every time I look at it.

    Time to hurry the hell up with my build now :D
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  • Re comments regarding chain suck and possible damage to the bottom bracket area. I have used a 3M product, a very thick black self amalgamating tape, as seen in an edition of MBR earlier this year in an article concerning quietening your transmission. This seems to do the trick I have used some on the chain stay area where chain suck damage could occur and also around the bottom bracket. This has prooved very successful with zero damage. I will try to find the exact name of the tape in question and post it on here later
    456 Carbon
    Ellsworth Ephiphany
  • Manny514 wrote:
    Re comments regarding chain suck and possible damage to the bottom bracket area. I have used a 3M product, a very thick black self amalgamating tape, as seen in an edition of MBR earlier this year in an article concerning quietening your transmission. This seems to do the trick I have used some on the chain stay area where chain suck damage could occur and also around the bottom bracket. This has prooved very successful with zero damage. I will try to find the exact name of the tape in question and post it on here later

    either of these options?

    http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/ElectricalMkts/ElectricalSupplies/products/electrical-tapes/self-amalgamating-tape/scotch-23-linered-premium-rubber-epr/
    http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/ElectricalMkts/ElectricalSupplies/products/electrical-tapes/self-amalgamating-tape/scotch-130-c-non-linered-premium-rubber-epr/

    you could use multiple layers, multiple pieces only overlapping on the rear so a clean finish in the front; as opposed to winding along the whole chainstay
  • Manny514 wrote:
    Re comments regarding chain suck and possible damage to the bottom bracket area. I have used a 3M product, a very thick black self amalgamating tape, as seen in an edition of MBR earlier this year in an article concerning quietening your transmission. This seems to do the trick I have used some on the chain stay area where chain suck damage could occur and also around the bottom bracket. This has prooved very successful with zero damage. I will try to find the exact name of the tape in question and post it on here later

    either of these options?

    http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/ElectricalMkts/ElectricalSupplies/products/electrical-tapes/self-amalgamating-tape/scotch-23-linered-premium-rubber-epr/
    http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/ElectricalMkts/ElectricalSupplies/products/electrical-tapes/self-amalgamating-tape/scotch-130-c-non-linered-premium-rubber-epr/

    you could use multiple layers, multiple pieces only overlapping on the rear so a clean finish in the front; as opposed to winding along the whole chainstay

    If its as thick and tough as a tube and its proven to protect the frame when your chain is wedged against it, then it's deffo worth consideration. And like a tube, you could still put a neoprene over the top for a better look - if you think the tube looks too industrial that is :D

    Something like this and a chainguide/tensioner should mean youre very unlucky if you still suffer the effects of chainsuck.
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  • Manny514 wrote:
    Re comments regarding chain suck and possible damage to the bottom bracket area. I have used a 3M product"

    Some pics of your solution/bike in general would be great, as would any other tips/hints you might have.

    Paul
    Family, Friends, Fantastic trails - what else is there

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  • Ok so cable routing, for fully enclosed the choice seems to be:
    - drill out current guides
    - use stick on c-clips such as http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Jagwire-Alloy-Stick-on-Housing-Cable-Guide-4-pcs-/221148157424?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item337d7515f0
    - use these to fit into current guides http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BBB-Hydroclamp-x2-Hydraulic-Brake-or-Gear-Hose-Cable-Guides-/330796478539?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item4d0501b04b

    Given my other 2 bikes have exposed cables under the top tube and I rarely suffer from muck issues I'm not sure full outer is worth the hassle
  • Ok so cable routing, for fully enclosed the choice seems to be:
    - drill out current guides
    - use stick on c-clips such as http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Jagwire-Alloy-Stick-on-Housing-Cable-Guide-4-pcs-/221148157424?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item337d7515f0
    - use these to fit into current guides http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BBB-Hydroclamp-x2-Hydraulic-Brake-or-Gear-Hose-Cable-Guides-/330796478539?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item4d0501b04b

    Given my other 2 bikes have exposed cables under the top tube and I rarely suffer from muck issues I'm not sure full outer is worth the hassle

    Funnily enough I was with my LbS today talking through my frame swap, and whilst they thought On One were strange not to consider routing for full outers, after considering the different alterations/ways of doing it, we decided not to bother :7). I have fully exposed cables on the bottle of my top tube and its not missed a beat - particularly this year with all the rain and mud!

    27th December is new build day. I'm like a child who's getting 2 Christmases :D
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  • Plyphon
    Plyphon Posts: 433
    Got out on my first ride on it this Saturday gone.


    Man, fun bike.
  • Plyphon wrote:
    Got out on my first ride on it this Saturday gone.


    Man, fun bike.

    :) I'm jealous.
    I rode t the FoD today and loved it (I always do there) and took in one of the easier DH tracks - would have been good 1st outing for the c456. Still, not long now.
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  • Plyphon
    Plyphon Posts: 433
    Proof I took it outside:

    4562_zpse331d92b.jpg

    And the day after in the sunshine is some lovely clean carbon fibre

    4561_zps137015ca.jpeg
  • Plyphon wrote:
    Proof I took it outside:

    4562_zpse331d92b.jpg

    And the day after in the sunshine is some lovely clean carbon fibre

    4561_zps137015ca.jpeg

    Ver very very nice. In some ways, they look better dirty ;)

    How did you get on with it?

    Paul
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  • Plyphon
    Plyphon Posts: 433
    Yeah - very fun. Due to weather/ recent weather it was mainly an XC style pootle rather than faster trails...

    Still good fun tho, hit a few descents that were mental fun and gave me the balls to go a bit faster/take lines I'd previously avoided etc. Very stable at speed and steering is very precise - something I didn't think I would notice but aye very direct steering.
  • Plyphon
    Plyphon Posts: 433
    Also: Looking to fit a new rim on the front in black to match the rear - what are you guys using?