The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014
Comments
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Sorry I don't think you did. :roll: :?
Firstly anything that runs on AAAs will have a really crap driver in it
Then you've bought a zoomer which have been universally slated here.
topped off by 18650s that could be made from anything (most likely junk)
seriously there are no 5600mah 18650s on the market. They are probably recycled junk with new shrink wraps.
the mount straps are ok though.
you could reject both the cells and the torch as not as described as it will be impossible for a T6 to pull 2k lumen and the 5600mah 18650s I very much doubt will do more than 2400mah
There are loads of XM-L T6 501 and 502s on ebay from about 7 quid up0 -
Yeah, nobody likes zoomables (terrible beam patterns). On the plus side, it does state it can take a massive 26650 lithium battery as well as the smaller 18650 (with the free white tube that comes with it wrapped around the battery to make it as big as a 26650). As for the AAA battery holder... who uses AAA batteries for torches any more. Low output, heavy and can't hold anywhere as much juice as a lithium ion battery.0
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20w of power per cell - nice if it was true.0
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Haha, I rule!
Ok, we'll I guess the batts could be fine so I will just roll with them - they should work ok yeah? What about this torch?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UltraFire-100 ... 460f20a652
Cancelled order n the other two torches 0 -
should be a lot better.
With your batts given they are 5600mah and your charger is an unknown 600ma it will take you at least 9 hours to charge them. However since they wont take the juice I wouldn't leaven them charging for any longer that 3.5-4hrs max.
and be careful to take fire precautions - the other problem you may get with those cells is the led driver triggering the protection circuit.
Ultrafire cells are pot luck and the protected ones are a PITA.0 -
Brilliant, thanks for that. Do you have any recomendations for a good set of batteries and charger then on eBay?
Really appreciate the help here!0 -
Right, been doing some trawling and (although these are probably the exact opposite to what I need knowing my previous experience) I think I have come up with a decent power solution...
This to charge:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XTAR-WP2-II-U ... 4ab23b5c07
These cells:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-UltraFire ... 51aea6d79e
Am I tremendously wrong again?0 -
Gents
Just bought a couple more torches. Can someone provide me a link to same safe decent batteries - I don't mind whether it's ebay or Lighmalls etc. I don't want to harvest from a laptop and don't particularly want to blow up my house if possible.
Also, any consensus on the best bar mounts?0 -
I'd avoid anything like "...Fire": typically they're junk. The only exception I'm aware of, is 2400mAh black-red TrustFire from DX: some batches were bad, but mostly the're Ok. If you need real cells - buy Sanyo or Panasonic with added protection PCB. Best prices are currently on FastTech site, as far as I know.wormishere wrote:
Xtar charger is Ok.0 -
Don't buy anything with "Fire" in it's name. Get good quality SenyBor, Panasonic, Sony batteries etc (essentially Japanese made, rather than Chinese made). Most of the stuff from Torchy (the battery boy) are good.
The batteries are the most important part of the equation. You can have the nicest torch in the world, but if you feed it crap batteries it won't run anywhere as bright or as long as you might like.0 -
thanks, so these bad boys are a good bet?
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1420/1 ... le-3100mah
or maybe?
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1420/1 ... rechargeab0 -
bamba wrote:chrisw333 wrote:Gents
I don't want to harvest from a laptop and don't particularly want to blow up my house if possible.
There probably more of a risk buying new batteries that are unknown, read back a page or so and read the bits about fake batteries.
I understand this, but there's just no prospect of me harvesting laptop cells, hence the request for a link to a reliable supplier. I see torchy on ebay seems ok and Fasttech are mentioned above. Are we happy these two are ok?0 -
Buy the first (Panasonic) one: it's very good battery.chrisw333 wrote:thanks, so these bad boys are a good bet?
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1420/1 ... le-3100mah
or maybe?
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1420/1 ... rechargeab
As for second (Sanyo) - it requires special charger because of "non-standard" voltage: putting it into ordinary charger will result in significant decrease in available capacity, so I don't think the're right choice...0 -
Thanks Archie0
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You're welcome!
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Right, following recent advice on this thread, a summary of what I have gone for to assist anyone else after a torch set up. (I already had a charger, was just getting a couple of extra torches following one being nicked with my bike)
Torch
http://www.lightmalls.com/ultrafire-wf- ... ch-1-18650
Batteries
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1420/1 ... le-3100mah
Mount
http://dx.com/p/cycling-bicycle-flashli ... der-105213
hope this helps!0 -
Yeah what archie said on the cells and the Xtar chargers are good.
Personally I'd say you are ok with a higher voltage 18650 it will drop capacity a bit, but it should charge many more cycles due to less stress.0 -
Finally, the results of old discussion here:
http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=18402836#p18402836
Luckily, LM provided the "head-only" option, so I've immediately ordered one.
SkyRay 7T6:
http://www.lightmalls.com/super-bright-7t6-bike-light-7-cree-xm-l-t6-bicycle-light-lamp-cap-only
Honestly, I'm very impressed. The quality of parts and assembling is surprizingly high, especially if compared to my previous five-LED light.
The most important thing - thermal management - is excellent here. All the LEDs are soldered on common baseplate, mounted onto massive aluminium base. Instead of thermal paste, thermal compound is used, but it's used quite properly. Layer is very thin, and it was used immediately before mounting (excessive compound squeezed in holes), so overall thermal path is undoubtedly good. Big contact surfaces also assure that. The reflector is securely mounted with two M3 screws. Moreover, massive aluminium reflector not only used to provide mounting pressure to the LED plate (via separate plastic insulators), but also participate in thermal sinking - as it's very tightly contacted with both aluminium base and the outer case.
Positioning of each LED in the cells is perfect. Assembled LED module and outer case both have wide and well machined contact surfaces. It's quite uncommon for Chinese light to be completely watertight, but it's the case here! Silicone button cap is not just inserted into hole, as it's usually done in other lights, but fixed by separate screw-in metal ring. And even power cord's hole is equipped with rubber boot. Obviously, glass bezel is also sealed with rubber rings. The handlebar mounting is typical, but is done more stable: shape of case's mounting surface have protruding edges preventing the mounting from rotation.
Electrical scheme is also not bad. All the LEDs are connected in series, and powered by boost driver made of QX5241a IC, H35N03 mosfet transistor and SS34 Schottky diode. Power to the circuit is stabilized by Holtek 7133-1 regulator. Indication of battery state is tri-colour (green-blue-red). Wires connecting the LED module have high-temperature silicone insulation. All the soldering is fine and clean.
Power consumption seems artifically lowered. In the default condition, current in the High mode was only 2,07А (16,2 Watt), and brightness at 1m - 13800 Lux. In former lights, underpowering was probably used to compensate inferior assembling quality, but in this case, I see no reasons for that. The only thing I can suppose of, is the absence of good batteries: for year or two, Asian web-shops are selling absolute crap instead, so probably reduction of power is implemented to maintain at least marginal runtime. Enough to say, in the "6*18650 included" variant, amount of money left for the battery is around $15, so go figure...
Anyway, I've modified the driver to increase the power to the reasonable level. Now at full beam it eats 3,78A (power is 31 Watt), providing 21500 Lux at 1m. Further increase is possible, but at the cost of replacing some of electronic components and inductor, and will also cause problems with common cables and extensions (due to high current and voltage drop), and will require replacement of battery protection circuits with ones that can sustain such load without triggering overcurrent protection.
As for now, heating is quite great. In the room test (25°C), after 10 minutes at full beam temperature rise to 64°C. With household cooling fan, the temperature after the same time was just 42°C, and after 15 minutes stabilized at 45°C. So, do not forget to switch it off at long stops!
Beam is similar in shape to the famous MagicShine MJ-808, but have some imperfections due to the multiple smooth reflectors used. I believe, it would be great if manufacturer will ever implement version with slightly deflected optical axes of reflectors, so that individual beams will be shifted a bit around centre - that way, effective cone of light will be wider. But even in current state, it's sufficient for most offroad landscapes IMHO.
As the light is relatively heavy (225 g), I've replaced the mounting with self-made one:
Conclusion: the light is quite well made, and after minor modding is really powerful one.0 -
Ah, I knew you'd never resist for long ArchieFinally, the results of old discussion here:
viewtopic.php?p=18402836#p18402836
Luckily, LM provided the "head-only" option, so I've immediately ordered one.
Very surprising to find it's actually fairly good quality, I would have preferred to see it as an XML2 though. But it is tempting now... What was the mod you made to up the power?
How would you compare the output to last years Triple XML units?0 -
Sure. And thanks again for turning my attention to this beast BTW.Sheppy wrote:Ah, I knew you'd never resist for long Archie
Quick-n-dirthy trick with decreasing current sense resistor's value. As is, it uses parallel connection of 2*0,25E and 0,33E ones (resulting resistance is 0,09 Ohm):What was the mod you made to up the power?
Adding one 0.1E SMD resistor brings resistance to the desired 0,0475 Ohm. Power component's parameters, according to their datasheets, allow for that without problems. The only thing in question is the inductor: it now works in the near to the magnetic saturation regime, and to prevent overheating I've added thermal paste and heatsink to it (simple piece of thick aluminium). Also, I've added thermal paste in all the fittings between LED base, reflector, and outer case.
About twice as bright. Luxmeter readings (11070 Lux vs. 21500 Lux) seems to confirm that.How would you compare the output to last years Triple XML units?0 -
P.S. One more thing I've forgotten: the power cable was also replaced with MagicShine one. The default cable is connector-wise compatible with MS batteries, but doesn't have sealing "ring" to properly fix it in the receptacle and protect it from water. Also, it was too thin for real current. In addition, cheap Chinese cables are known to be very unreliable: after short period of use plastic insulation becomes brittle, and breaks exposing the wires (especially when used during winter season)...0
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Thanks for the info Archie, very tempting to order one now Getting to that time of year again so have to have the latest light, funny how the old ones seem dim now... 0
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You're welcome. Yes indeed, previous models are now shining not as blazingly, as in the days of acquiring them... I wonder, what lights we all will be using after three or five years?.. 0
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Anybody have experience of the zoomable T6 bike lights like this one, not interested in the battery but like the look of the head unit?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350722069287?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
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diy wrote:That twin light job has smooth reflectors which aren't ideal.
IMO there is a lot of benefit in being able to independently adjust each light. e.g. one near, one far, wide angle, close angle etc.
Still need to avoid the nasty shrink wrap packs with rubbish cells.
my suggestions are these:
http://www.lightmalls.com/ultrafire-wf- ... ch-1-18650
I want to order that torch but in the description it says 'Lens: SMO or OP' but there is no option to choose which one you want?0 -
I think they mean you could get either one? is there a comments section in the checkout, maybe try and specify there?0
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op is ideal but smo is not that much of an issue with such a small head.0
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Sent them an e-mail and left a note when paying via PayPal so should be getting the op . just a quick question though, last year I was using ultrafire torches with unprotected Panasonic cells but found that every time I hit a bump in the road the torch would flick between modes, I brought some 18700 cells and it solved the problem (I'm guessing being longer there was a better connection) is there anything I can do to the torch or batteries so I would be able to use the Panasonic's? Or should I just sell them on?0
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If the battery is too thin pad it out with some electrical tape or similar. If this too short pad it out with some small washers or thin magnets.
Sometimes the spring in the end cap is not strong enough so padding it out makes everything a bit more secure.0
