The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014
Comments
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I've tried various torches, and finally selected this one as a helmet light:
http://dx.com/p/ultrafire-v6-t60-xm-lt6 ... 650-100173
Small, light, and quite powerful, with good thermal management.0 -
Does anyone know a good adapter so I can put a 501b on a head strap? My wife could do with a head torch for using at the stable now it's getting dark and I figured she could use one of my torches if there was an adapter she could use.
I have had a look but cannot find any.Remember Rule #50 -
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22mm pipe clips make a good helmet mount for 501B Series Torches, the normal screw hole can be tapped out to take a plastci number plate bolt if that works for you, look slike a cheap exposure mount. Also the leyzene ovel snap mounts for helwmets can be modified witha bit of foam tape to hold these torches securley also.0
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You're welcome!0
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This looks pretty cool, 2 x XM-L2 4 mode with "daytime running lights" (light unit only) http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022462
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Actually, if the strobe on those 'daytime running lights' was a slow flash, this would be really useful. I like to have one light for seeing and another with wide visibility on flash to be seen. This could do both in one unit.0
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Morning all
tried night riding last week for the 1st time
was good, but my existing torches are severely lacking for proper off road night riding, so im looking for a replacement
seen these and they look pretty good
http://dx.com/p/mj-872-waterproof-4-cre ... -set-80953
opinions ? can i get the same performance from a cheaper set ?
TBH im a little baffled by the options available and the claims of some of the manufacturers
Have heard of Magicshine, but im also aware that buying the branded option isnt always the most cost effective
Any help/advice welcome0 -
bamba wrote:how can you tell the difference between xml t6, xml u2, xml u3 and xml 2 leds / drivers ?
I dunno how foolproof it is but I think I read somewhere (this thread probably) that XM-L emitters are mounted on green circuit board and XM-L2 on white. AFAIK there's no way of telling from which brightness bin any of them come, except I suppose if you can measure the difference in lumens out for a given power input (which is presumably how they sort them in the first place).0 -
just checked , mine are black ????
edit, found how to tell guide, pics on the right,
http://flashlightwiki.com/Brightness_Bins0 -
Any small flashlight suggestions, I find the 18650s and torches such as 501bs too bright and too large for my road bike
I need a good 3hr run time ie for both legs of my commute. I found this which looks promising...
Ultrafire MCU-C7 http://dx.com/p/ultrafire-mcu-c7s-cree- ... 123a-26497
It seems these fit different battery's but I have no idea on these smaller cells.
Pricey but I'm considering a exposure TraceR or lenyze micro drive0 -
steviemidnight wrote:Any small flashlight suggestions, I find the 18650s and torches such as 501bs too bright and too large for my road bike
I need a good 3hr run time ie for both legs of my commute. I found this which looks promising...
Ultrafire MCU-C7 http://dx.com/p/ultrafire-mcu-c7s-cree- ... 123a-26497
It seems these fit different battery's but I have no idea on these smaller cells.
Pricey but I'm considering a exposure TraceR or lenyze micro drive
Not going to get long run times with CR123's. Might want to try a 18650 in a different package/orientation. I used to use one of these as a replacement for a bar extender tube since i all ready used the bar extender (saved space on the bars).
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Ouija great idea, my problem is i have tri bars on the road bike. but your right a 18650 flashlight in a tiny form (smaller than the 501/2s with a medium strobe would be ideal. ie something like Olight S20 I've just seen
Regarding run times i think its just a matter of finding the torch with the right driver.
Note: exposure flairs run on RCR123A recharables and it would appear the smaller EDC falshlights can use 16340.
I'll keep looking what ever i find i'll likely use it on the helmet for the MTB night rides0 -
If i bought one or two of these 501/2 torches for night riding,would i be better with these kind of batteries??
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-SenyBor-Pa ... 4612810fa4
also have a 3 cree headlamp but the battery has given up the ghost,would like something thats not full of the dodgy firestarter batteries,
ThanksGiant Reign 2
Crohnie0 -
steviemidnight wrote:Ouija great idea, my problem is i have tri bars on the road bike. but your right a 18650 flashlight in a tiny form (smaller than the 501/2s with a medium strobe would be ideal. ie something like Olight S20 I've just seen
Regarding run times i think its just a matter of finding the torch with the right driver.
Note: exposure flairs run on RCR123A recharables and it would appear the smaller EDC falshlights can use 16340.
I'll keep looking what ever i find i'll likely use it on the helmet for the MTB night rides
I run two 501bs on Low or medium on my road bike which has aero clip ons. The mounting option is dead easy, just a couple of loops of MTB inner tube to secure then to the extension bars in-line. Very easy. For a flasher I just go with a cheopo flasher on elastic using button cells. Strobe option is a no-no on the road.0 -
As it's coming upto that time of the year again.
Has anyone 'upgraded' their existing 501/502b torches with a new XM-L2 drop-in? I have 4x XML T6 and 2x backup XP-G 501b's, So I think I might upgrade 4 of these to the new XM-L2 and get rid of the old XP-G drop-ins. These seem reasonable: http://www.lightmalls.com/cree-new-led- ... ed-drop-in
While I'm at it I think I might update a couple of pairs of my older batteries to these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-SenyBor-Pa ... 4612810fa4
With the improved efficiency of the XM-L2 and the increasing capacity of the above batteries we must be getting on for 2 hour runtimes on the venerable old 501b body? I really love easily upgradeable tech!
Saying that, it's only $2 more for a full torch unit: http://www.lightmalls.com/ultrafire-wf- ... ch-1-186500 -
snow rock. £10 per a battery are they worth that money? have you heard good things about this battery or just taking a punt ?
I've not got the new XM-L2 yet but I'm looking at getting some. but it better to buy a complete torch for the lil extra cost. I've also seen the XML-U3 anyone have any experience between the 2 LED's?
I want a very floody torch is a C8 a good option for this?
also want a very tight beam to trough far ahead of me so pedestrians can see I'm coming up behind them, any suggestion that might be better than the 501 or 502?GT Avalanche 1.0 Disc 2011, Fixie, frankenbike0 -
I changed from 502b xml t6 to xml2 the other week, been out with them once so far. Noticeable brighter than xml but not huge, perhaps the most noticeable is the medium setting, much brighter than previous xml but still only drawing 1.1 amps, bit surprised when on full there pulling 2.5 amps so had to double check there are xml 2 not u2 or u3's ( confirmed xml2 )
can any one else verify their current draws from xml2's ?
john 2002 , if you want a tight beam use a smooth refelector, it will still be wide bit less bright on the spill area and a much brighter , tight hot spot.0 -
john2002 wrote:snow rock. £10 per a battery are they worth that money? have you heard good things about this battery or just taking a punt ?
I've not got the new XM-L2 yet but I'm looking at getting some. but it better to buy a complete torch for the lil extra cost. I've also seen the XML-U3 anyone have any experience between the 2 LED's?
I want a very floody torch is a C8 a good option for this?
also want a very tight beam to trough far ahead of me so pedestrians can see I'm coming up behind them, any suggestion that might be better than the 501 or 502?
They certainly are, read his website www.torchythebatteryboy.com - The Senybor (Panasonic) batteries are actually true capacity (if not more) so you get what you pay for, much more than the Ultrafire type. I have some older Senybor of the same labelled capacity and some cheap Ultrafire (came with a torch). The Senybor's last 1.8 times longer than the Ultrafire.0 -
Snownrock C8 wont increase the floodiness. The bigger head actually makes it worse as the small die punches through the reflector. If you have an Orange peel reflector that will help as will widening the hole for the LED. Other than that its about experimenting with clear tape or privacy film, in tiny amounts. Of course the other way to achieve flood is more lights on lower settings.
Bamber - driver dictates current not LED, so current draw wont tell you which bin LED you have.
Personally I'd pay the $2 extra for a whole unit - just for the spares.most noticeable is the medium setting, much brighter than previous xml but still only drawing 1.1 amps, bit surprised when on full there pulling 2.5 amps so had to double check there are xml 2 not u2 or u3's ( confirmed xml2 )
Which supplier?0 -
Brought complete torches (501b) from lightmalls,
http://www.lightmalls.com/ultrafire-wf- ... ch-1-186500 -
its good to know about the senybor batteries.ive got another laptop battery to take apart so wont be buying any at the moment.
i will stick with a couple with a couple of 501 (1 with smooth reflector for a tight spot and 1 with a op reflector and tape on the glass for a flood light)GT Avalanche 1.0 Disc 2011, Fixie, frankenbike0 -
Slightly cheaper (£2 cheaper) 3400mAh batteries here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Panasonic- ... 4612feddbe
They are the same Panasonic cells as in the Senybor ones I linked above, just without a protection circuit (use a good charger) - Actual ratings of >3200mAh0 -
Does a unit with 2 lamps give a brighter light or more spread than a single lamp with multiple LEDs? I'm interrested in peoples experiences with regards to what is most useful for riding singletrack.Bird Aeris. DMR Trailstar. Spesh Rockhopper pub bike.0
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Just received my TR D002 following Ouija's recommendation. This thing is tiny!
Never received anything from a Chinese supplier before and was not expecting the packaging it arrived in...
But, it arrived safe and in working condition so cannot be too bad!
Not use this 'for real' yet but all looks good so far (bright!). The only thing I would say so far is that the beam has about 4 rings in it...will see how it goes on Friday.Remember Rule #50 -
Use window privacy film on the inside of the glass lenses to smooth out the beam, I posted about it ages ago although it's been reposted more recently0
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Never noticed any rings on mine, you might just need to move the reflectors back a little if the emitters aren't fully seated as far forward as possible (had that happen on a single head unit, which caused the beam to have a white ring around it). I wouldn't bother with privacy tape as the lights quite floody as it is (though i was tempted to try it on one lense just to see what would happen).
Just ordered another one of these lights along with a single head unit from manafont to go on some other bikes now that the nights are closing in (getting tired of switching lights around and figure i'll just leave them permanently mounted over the winter months).0