The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014
Comments
-
Thanks Ouija and DIY; I am almost set up and ready to go with my torches. Just a quick question or two if you can help...
I have this charger http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XTAR-WP2-II-U ... 92&afsrc=1 for these batteries http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121151199773? ... 1439.l2649
The charger has the option of either 1A or 0.5A for charging. I have no idea what difference this makes when I am charging so what setting should I go for?
Also, the mounts I have for the torches http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320964788440? ... 1439.l2649 do not work at the centre of my bar as it is a tapered and oversized. Will there be any problems running them near my brake levers or is there another type of mount out there that is best? Oh (third question I know) is there anything I can put on the bar to help them not slip - they seem quite tight anyway but I would rather be safe than sorry.
Cheers guys.0 -
Charge at 1a will be quicker. setting the lights wide apart reduces shadowing.0
-
Those mounts will work near the centre of oversized bars. I use one to hold a barrel battery on mine sometimes and even use it to hold it on to the top of the stem (which is much wider). Just need to pull the straps hard enough for the rubber legs to splay out (i actually put the smaller of the two 'U' shaped grips on the bar and the big one on the torch/battery).
Nice choice of batteries, by the way. I've got boxes full of 18650 batteries but those Senybors are by far the best (almost 30% longer run times and even my 502b torches seem a tad brighter with those in).0 -
On yesterday's night ride, I've tested my new SkyRay 7T6 light mentioned on previous page. Cooling is quite sufficient: it was barely warm. Beam is fine: central spot illuminates the road evenly, while side flood allows to see road edges well enough.0
-
Can you refresh us with your mount solution for the skyray?0
-
I use additional water bottle mounts for handlebar as a source of mounting hardware:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290700984319
You'll have to use some power tools to modify them, though. One of threaded holes should be drilled from inside for the M4 screw head to fit completely under surface, then (for typical lights like MJ-808e and its clones) some aluminium around second hole should be removed using Dremel, to provide space for light's power cable.
If the shape of light doesn't allow direct contact with the mount (as in beforementioned SkyRay case), additional aluminium spacer of suitable configuration will be required aswell. To protect handlebar from scratches, I use [-shaped rubber bands obtained from cheap rear light mountings.
Fixing M6 screw can be replaced with "hand-operated" one, to provide easy adjustment of light position.0 -
Had this tiny little thing turn up the other day (just 11 days delivery from Manafont in China).
Very nice. Got loads of XML lights (the usual assortment of single head, separate battery pack lights in 8.4v and 4.2v along with the obligatory 501/502 type hand torches, large and small etc) but wanted another twin head unit to replace the huge NB-20001 off road flood light i have...
A big difference in size and weight...
Absolutely tiny. Beam wise, it's still a little more flood than spot. The spot being large and not overly bright, as is needed for off road stuff as you don't want to ruin your night vision staring at a small, overly bright, spot.
The included mount is also quite good (out of twenty XML lights, it's the only one i haven't needed to replace the included mount with something better), with a latching/locking mechanism on the side of the light to separate the head unit from the mount itself. Cudos to the connectors as well, having overlapping waterproof connectors that click/lock together to prevent them from pulling apart (my old twin head has these as well, along with two of my single head units... a lot of the cheaper Chinese ones don't).
The battery is rubberised to keep it dry, and even the frame pouch is soft rubber instead of woven fabric so won't collect moisture/dirt or need washing. Being a 4 cell 2S/2P battery i wasn't expecting much more than an hour runtime from two XM-L 2's on full brightness despite the claim of 3 hours on full from the manufacturer and after my first ride on Wednesday night i assumed that was the case when the indicator light went from Blue to Green to Amber in less than 45 minutes (unless it's supposed to go one more color, such as red... the documentation doesn't say) and assumed the battery was near flat.
However. After another ride last night the light was still going strong on full for another hour and fifteen minutes after the indicator went orange (so 2 hours in total) so i may of misinterpreted what the orange indicator ...mmmm indicates or they've set it very conservatively (maybe it does go red when it's drained, i couldn't stay out long enough as i was racing in front of a lightning storm to get home).
Either way, very impressive and the remote switch is just brilliant, especially when cycling down those country lanes and rough tracks when you want to dip your lights quickly and, in some cases due to rough terrain/bombing down hills, can't always take your hand of the grips to start jabbing away at buttons on the back of the light. A good example was when riding up through a village, stood up and throwing the bike from side to side i noticed two milfs walking down the village in the opposite direction and was able to dip the lights without having to sit down, change gears and spin so i could take my hand of the grip as i usually do (i apologised for blinding them and they just laughed and said it was OK).
The only two negative things i'd say about it was that the charger didn't come with an adapter for a British plug socket. Not a problem as i have a few UK specific chargers anyway. The other thing was that the head unit was a little loose on the bar bracket and could buzz/rattle a little. Two minutes and the application of a tiny strip of electrical tape along the two rails it slides on fixed that problem.
Highly recommended for only £25.0 -
Ouija, how bright is your new twin light compaired to the T6/XML single lights?
Looking for another light for the coming winter and would like to outshine my riding mates this year
0 -
kenan wrote:Ouija, how bright is your new twin light compaired to the T6/XML single lights?
Looking for another light for the coming winter and would like to outshine my riding mates this year
That's highly subjective and dependent on beam pattern and how many amps the light is running at. For road use a simple 4.2v handheld XML torch can appear brighter than any of the multi-emitter lights because, while it's putting out less light, the tighter beam pattern isn't scattering/losing light out to the sides so pretty much the same amount of light is hitting the central section of your vision.
For instance, when i went out on Wednesday night to try my new light out, i also took a 502 torch on the handlebar for backup and comparison. Switching back and forth between the two lights on full there was no noticeable difference in light output in the central spot area (about a foot across) but the new lights central area was almost half as big again as the torches and there was a lot more light going to the left and the right, up and down, illuminating the entire area compared to the torches just illuminating what was directly in front of me.
Most of the single head units that you can buy, unless you get one with an OP reflector, tend to be much like that 502 torch. In fact, even worse as they tend to be too spotty, making it hard to see anything outside the spot and ruining your night vision (staring at the hot spot causes your pupil to contract, letting in less light, which makes you want to run the light even brighter to compensate as it now seems dimmer than you remember, which then causes your pupil to contract even more etc, etc, etc). Which isn't too bad if your riding on roads, but is a definite no, no for off road riding (more flood, less spot IMO).
And as said, amp output also plays a major part.
For instance these two lights look very similar....
CREE XML XM-L T6 1000 LM LED
and are even a similar price, yet the top one blows away the bottom one in every respect. Owning two of each (six if you include my 4.2v versions of the same thing) and can say that the top one's brightest mode is significantly brighter than the bottom ones and will eat through a four cell pack in less than an hour and a half compared to the bottoms 2.5hr output at max.
Why?
Because it runs at a much higher amp output. It's middle brightness setting is similar to the bottom ones brightest mode (just a tad less and with similar run times). On top of that it's got a OP reflector that puts out a beam that isn't so spotty it ruins your night vision and yet isn't too diffuse that your squinting to see anything and feel you need to run it on max all the time.
It also has rubber protected battery pack, better frame bag, waterproof click lock connectors, three brightness modes compared to the second pictures two (of which the first mode isn't bright enough to see anything, forcing you to run it on max all the time) and even has a slightly softer rubber mount base which gives it better purchase on the bar.
And yet the emitter in both head units is identical.
So don't assume that all T6's are the same. A part of the reason this thread exists is to try and inform those who haven't owned any of these types of cheap Chinese lights of the pros and cons that all these little differences can make in your overall experience with them.
So, to get back to your original question. There is no way of knowing which lights are better unless you specify the models so that we can compare things like the amp draw, reflector size and disposition, included battery packs and other things. Do you have any models in mind?0 -
You don't get something for nothing. More brightness means more battery consumption and the battery that comes with the top one is better than the bottom ones (the top light goes through the cheap ass bottom ones in under 50 minutes).
That's why i always groan when i see these 3,4,5 or 7 XML emitter lights coming with four cell packs. For two XML's running at a decent ampage you need a minimum of 6 cells, preferably more. Why do you think Archies new light is connected to his own humungous bottle cage battery....
0 -
As luck would have it I have the last XM-L T6 light pictured above. I intend to use this on my head and was looking for second light to go on my MTB bars for off-road duties.0
-
General wisdom seems to be to have something floody on the bars. I used to use two of the ones in the top pic for that purpose running in middle mode (same as the one you've got in high..... unless yours is the 4.2v version) , but it does involve lugging around two four cell packs and all the extra wire routing (just used to stuff them in a big frame bag instead and then run a single Y-Splitter cable to them). Part of the reason i went for my new light is because i wanted something floody in a small package with only one battery pack and only one wire.
If you wanted you could get two of the 4.2v versions of the light you've already got and then simply put some privacy screening tape over the lenses to scatter the beam. Being 4.2v they only require a two cell pack and run for much the same duration (3 hours) so your only lugging around 4 cells on the frame (just like a single unit running at 8.4v). The drop from 8.4v to 4.2 doesn't half the brightness (it doesn't work like that) it's more like 20%.
However. It's still a cumbersome package and costs more than some of the twin head 'floody' style lights that can be had for a few quid less. Such as the one i got.
Trustfire TR-D002
or these that seem to be everywhere..
This would be good if you stuff privacy tape over the front and only ran it on two XML's and at least it comes with a six cell pack.
This one is interesting too, but doesn't appear to come with a frame bag, just two velcro strips (suppose it might work if you've got a square tubed frame).
And the one i almost thought about getting (if it had had a remote switch)0 -
Decent light, but be aware it's relatively narrow-focused one: flood is quite weak. Also, its case have really sharp edges: in my opinion, it is a bit dangerous in case of falling or road incident. Some pictures here (sorry, no English review for now):Ouija wrote:or these that seem to be everywhere..
http://forum.biketime.ee/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5842
I don't have this particular one, but its case seems absolutely identical to the 5-LED model I've mentioned here previously. If 4-LED variant is similar, I'd recommend to avoid it because of inferior design (lack of thermal management etc).This would be good if you stuff privacy tape over the front and only ran it on two XML's and at least it comes with a six cell pack.
Concerning six-cell pack: most likely, it is made of typical 1500...1100mAh junk cells, so even 6 of them does not actually helps. Recently, my cycling club mate asked me to check his new 6-cell pack advertised as 9600mAh ("Wow, look: just $15!"). Its real capacity on 1A discharge rate turned out to be 3629 mAh...
P.S. Thanks for your TrustFire dual-XML light review!0 -
-Archie- wrote:
Concerning six-cell pack: most likely, it is made of typical 1500...1100mAh junk cells, so even 6 of them does not actually helps. Recently, my cycling club mate asked me to check his new 6-cell pack advertised as 9600mAh ("Wow, look: just $15!"). Its real capacity on 1A discharge rate turned out to be 3629 mAh...
P.S. Thanks for your TrustFire dual-XML light review!
Yeah. Totally agree. That's why i like to buy branded lights and batteries such as the Trustfire, Inton and Magicshine stuff as you know your going to get better build quality and components most of the time. It played a large factor in why i went for the Trustfire over some of the brandless ones i linked to sold simply as "Cree" lights etc.0 -
Ouija,
I have got the Inton twin head light like yourself and its a great light but it is heavy and large. Does the Manfont light use the same battery as the Inton light and would it be ok for road riding as I presently use the inton on the road bike?0 -
The Trustfire light comes with it's own four cell battery (about three hours on max, though i've only ridden it for two, so don't know if it achieves it's claim). My Inton twin head came with a high quality six cell pack with click lock connectors that also work on the new Trustfire (which uses the same sheafed connector).
Hooked that one up to the Trustfire the night before last to see how they compared and the six cell pack didn't send the indicator orange until an hour and a half into my journey (i still assume the light goes red when the batteries near drained but haven't been out long enough to test that on any of my lights as i never ride more than three hours in the dark at the moment........ maybe when winter comes around and it starts getting dark in the middle of the afternoon).
As for road riding. If your currently using the Inton, then i'd say you'd notice little difference. The Trustfire has a whiter light to it (my Inton, along with some over XML's, had a softer off white colour to it) and the beam patterns are similar, with the Trustfire being slightly tighter focused. Only thing i'd say is, because of the Intons larger reflectors, with the emitters sitting farther back from the front glass you could angle the beam down to prevent blinding oncoming motorists/pedstrians too much. With the small cupped Trustfire it's almost impossible to stop people looking directly at the emitter, no matter what the angle.
However. With the Trustfire, your more likely to dip the lights down to their lowest setting due to the ease with which the remote switch makes this possible, as opposed to tapping madly at the back of the Inton or trying desperately to turn the brightness knob down, which isn't always possible when climbing/descending or taking hard corners etc.
I've noticed a lot of the old single head, spottier, lights have now started coming with remote switches....
which are going to be more economical on battery life than a twin head system though my Trustfire, along with the Inton, do flood light most of the road (which i prefer when i'm on a quiet country lane all by myself) but spottier lights are better for town and city.0 -
Right, might be tempted by the Trustfire! I've currently got the older version of the MTB Batteries light (which is great, but have had to send it back 3 times because the lead / connector stops working), and a cheaper Chinese clone, which has also had poor quality leads, and now seems to discharge its battery in about an hour now, so either the battery pack is not up to scratch, or the charger is not providing a full charge ... So in all, I end up riding at night never entirely convinced that one or both lights are going to see me through a 2-3 hour ride, and would therefore like a more reliable option (or at least a 3rd light so I can use one as a backup)
Anyway ... would you rate the quality of the components (light unit, leads, battery pack) on the Trustfire?
And what about customs / import charges / taxes etc?0 -
As with the Inton i thought the quality of the branded Trustfire lights (have three other Trustfires) was better than the unbranded stuff which i've also got. Better cables, better mount, proper sealed batteries etc. Even comes with a warranty.
As for batteries, even top end Li-Ion batteries have a limited life span. They recon they start deteriating from the moment of manufacture and only have a three year life span, weather they are used or not (at which point, they only store a fraction of they're original charge) so you should expect to replace your battery packs every couple of years. The main difference between the good packs and the bad ones isn't weather they age so much as how much charge they can take initially. with the better specced units providing longer run times initially. Personally, i've never had any problems with my Trustfire, Magiscshine, Inton (BAK) and Sanguan (?) rubber sealed packs but have had variable reliability on some of those cheap, blue, shrink wrapped battery packs that came with four of my unbranded Chinese lights and some aftermarket replacements (have about eight of them sitting in a box somewhere).
As for tax & customs, i've never been hit with any despite ordering absolutely tons of stuff from China over the last two years (including large objects such as forks). Maybe i'm just lucky (or ordering from the right people, lol). Certainly didn't get any on the Trustfire which is probably why it turned up in only eleven days (must of whizzed through customs without so much as slowing down).
Edit:
Just got back from a longer night ride using the battery that came with it and can confirm that the light on the remote switch does go red to indicate when the battery is nearly dead (so that's Blue, Green, Amber, Red). Got just over two hours fifteen minutes on full before the red light came on which is pretty good for a four cell pack. The manufacturer claim 3 hours but i'd really only expect to get that on a single emitter, not a twin head. Might try one of the cheap battery packs that came with some of my other Chinese lights on it and see what the difference in run times are......0 -
Thought i better get preped for the nights rolling in. Anyone recommend a good rear light?0
-
sprite1275 wrote:Thought i better get preped for the nights rolling in. Anyone recommend a good rear light?
Yep. Phaart Bleep for £3.99
Many other companies sell this exact same light for ten quid upwards yet the only difference is the labelling (same light, made in the same factory). So, don't be fooled into buying the more expensive units, just get this... bargain.
Oh! And 0.5 watts is very, very bright. Far brighter than that expensive rubbish from halfords that only uses 0.1 and 0.2 watt leds.0 -
Thanks Ouija. These are bright then, thought I was going to have to spend way more than that.
0 -
They are as bright as your going to get running off AAA batteries. Above that you start getting the 1 watt and 2 watt lights that require seperate battery packs like the Magicshine one or the C&B seen ones...
0 -
I'd prefer AA-powered flashers, not AAA, but theyre quite rare nowadays... As for MagicShine rear light - it is very good, but unfortunately can not be used in any mode other than full brightness, so in many cases it's heavy overkill.0
-
Hi Ouija,
I think I will go ahead and get a set of the lights you have just ordered.
I have 2 501's as previously recommended (I was wormishere until my account got blocked?!) with some Senybor's and they are bright as you like but really spotty. I have tried them on my bars with the velcro mounts but the vibrations from the trails (very rocky) make it bounce and resonate so it looks like a strobe!
I was wondering if I took the crystal out and sanded it to make it frosted if that would give me more flood on the 501's and if the light you recommend is floody enough for the bars.Remember Rule #50 -
Wormishere1 wrote:Hi Ouija,
I think I will go ahead and get a set of the lights you have just ordered.
I have 2 501's as previously recommended (I was wormishere until my account got blocked?!) with some Senybor's and they are bright as you like but really spotty. I have tried them on my bars with the velcro mounts but the vibrations from the trails (very rocky) make it bounce and resonate so it looks like a strobe!
I was wondering if I took the crystal out and sanded it to make it frosted if that would give me more flood on the 501's and if the light you recommend is floody enough for the bars.
You can buy orange peel reflectors for 501/502's but it's simpler to pop down B&Q or Wilkinson and buy a big sheet of privacy screening tape (that stuff you tape on windows to give it a frosted affect). Preferably one with very fine bubbles. Usually found in the shower/bathroom department as it's used on glass shower stalls and windows. Each sheet is usually about half the size of a window so you'll only need a tiny fraction of it.
Before tape
After screening tape
As for the new Trustfire i bought, i'd say it leans more towards flood than spot. Most emitters in shallow cups only a small distance from the front glass will throw more light out sideways than forwards, whereas emitters sat way back in deep reflector cups tend to focus the beam into more of a spot. More so if the reflector cup is quite wide as well. The 501's aren't that bad compared to some others i've seen. I wouldn't use the rubber mounts either. I just tape mine to solid mounts or they wobble too much.
0 -
My double pipe clip solution always struggled on oversized bars. However you can get 28mm pipe clips from screw fix which should work. I had no problem stretching the 22mm clips to 25mm, so reckon the 28mm will go to 31.
My standard solution is a light mount with a pipe clip as per my sig. I also use superglue to threadlock the connecting bolt.0 -
Thanks Ouiji and DIY.
Any chance you have any of the frosting film spare that you could sell to me? I live on the middle of the Dales - nearest B&Q etc around 60 mile round trip. I would rather pay postage than diesel! I could PayPal you?Remember Rule #50 -
hi all
i am looking specifically for AA battery options but it seems to be quite a flooded market (pun intended)
we have a plentiful supply at work
if anyone can recommend a unit at £30 tops?
JJ0 -
What is the latest best led available?0
