The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014

supersonic
supersonic Posts: 82,708
edited October 2019 in MTB buying advice
I have retired the old thread as is getting very large! Can still be found, just use the What Lights sticky for a link, entitled '2nd lights discussion'.

This thread is for the general discussion of bike lights, torches and issues surrounding them. Post recommendations and info here, ask questions and post beam shots if you have them.

I'll kick things off with a question: where to you aim your bar mounted lamps, ie distance from tyre contact patch? What lamps, and why?
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Comments

  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    ilovedirt

    from the old thread...

    either the torch route

    2-4 of these (400-450 otf lumen)

    a couple of mounts this
    or this

    some 18650 laptop batteries from old laptops or ebay

    A charger

    or the complete light (approx 800 otf lumen)

    You can easily get 2K lumen for half your budget, compared to 300 Lumen for more than your budget by going with a "brand". No brainer really


    SS - a few days warning would have been nice
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Friday night/saturday morning is our quietest time, so no harm done really.
  • bamba
    bamba Posts: 856
    edited October 2011
    Some beam shots, to try to understand the differance from p7 and xml,
    the p7 is using a ultrafire 501b an xmls's 502b,all using unprotected panasonic CGR18650E'S

    P7,pulling 1.9/2.0 amps

    14102011867.jpg

    single xml pulling 1.4/1.5 amps

    14102011868.jpg

    double xml pulling 1.4/1.5 amps

    14102011869.jpg

    The double xml shot has a slightly different beam on the left because it was an existing torch using a new dropin module probably from a different manufacture to the new torch on the right.You can see that the P7 is brighter but as prevoiusly mentioned it will not last as long as the xml'S,The P7 also has a dull spot in the center of the beam cuased by the 4 led configuration.Not tested the xml's yet on the bike but the P7 ran for about 45mins with a good battery.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Nice work! Do you have the stated amperages for comparison?

    I found that the MTE P7 I have has that dull spot, but is not present on my 501b P7. Must be variations in the LEDs and lens/reflector.
  • PHeller
    PHeller Posts: 18
    I'd like to get some opinions on the SolarForce L2m. The guys over at BudgetLightForums really seem to like them, and they are smaller than the 501 torches.
  • coomber
    coomber Posts: 232
    diy wrote:
    ilovedirt

    from the old thread...

    either the torch route

    2-4 of these (400-450 otf lumen)

    a couple of mounts this
    or this

    some 18650 laptop batteries from old laptops or ebay

    A charger

    or the complete light (approx 800 otf lumen)

    You can easily get 2K lumen for half your budget, compared to 300 Lumen for more than your budget by going with a "brand". No brainer really


    SS - a few days warning would have been nice

    Right, I am buying some light this weekend. Dont want to re-read the old thread.

    What are the general thoughts on what is enough? I was going to buy one of the full kit (1200) lumens and attach one of the $16 510 lumen ones on the bar.

    For a bang average slow rider would people say that is ok to start? Never used a bike in the dark offroad before.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Will be fine! More than enough I'd say. There is a more powerful torch with the same LED though:

    http://www.dealextreme.com/p/fandyfire- ... 8650-90609

    It won't last as long, but will output more light.
  • coomber
    coomber Posts: 232
    Thanks for the help and quick reply, it is appreciated.

    Will go ahead and order and will post pics in a few weeks once they arrive.
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    supersonic wrote:
    Will be fine! More than enough I'd say. There is a more powerful torch with the same LED though:

    http://www.dealextreme.com/p/fandyfire- ... 8650-90609

    It won't last as long, but will output more light.

    Dead right it wont last long - 2.8A in such a small light, I reckon it may well go pop after a few hours of use. IMO unless you are using the top end 18650 cells 2.8A is too much for a single cell, not to mention the heat problems that that little light will have.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    I guess we will wait and see! The heat is a concern, but this body has no probs reported so far. I guess we will have to disagree: driving a XML at 1.5 -1.8 is efficient, but below the capabilty IMHO, unless total efficency is your agenda. But total efficiency is not the agenda for most people that use torches as one of the main benefits of course is being able to swap in cells. It is not for me. At least I want a torch that gives you the option of the higher output.
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    I've purchased this torch from DX and it arrived yesterday. This is my first torch and I intended to put it on my helmet. I brought some SenyBor 2800mAh 18650 batteries from the UK. Put them in the torch last night and wow, it's powerful. Trouble is that after 5 minutes it's too hot to touch. After about 7 minutes even the switch end is too hot and I suspect if you left it a few more minutes it would take your skin off! I realise that it would be cooled when riding, but I doubt it will be cooled enough.
    Is this torch likely to ruin by new expensive batteries?
    Am I better off buying another torch at a more suitable spec? I'm wanted to buy another torch and am happy to buy two more. So what's the best & most suitable spec? XM-LT6 at 1400mA as the UltraFire WF-502B torch?

    the above was from d3matt in the old wlt
  • Just bought a Lumicycle LED3 XPG after reading the light reviews on Bikeradar. Expensive i know but managed to hide the purchase from the wife. Am about to try them one night this week for my first ever night ride.

    What are the advantages/ disadvantages of either mounting the light on the handlebars or using the helmet attachment?
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    weight vs flexibility really. On the bars is lighter but you can see where you are looking. On the head is heavier but you see where you look.

    Generally its hard to avoid both unless you have buckets of flood coming from an insanely bright light.
  • bamba
    bamba Posts: 856
    Diy, is worth you linking the video of fix's for the 501's may be in your signature as it will be lost in the ether soon as it become buried,
  • unkle
    unkle Posts: 3
    I have the 18650 charger (the one posted in diy's link above), am i right in saying its not a three stage charger, and you need to manually charge and rest them?

    And diy, when you use the laptop 18650's, do you use a little protection module, or just put them straight in the torch?


    :D
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    They are 2 stage chargers, really you don't need to worry about stage 3 in single cell applications.

    I just bung em in - again, less risk in single cell apps.
  • Jeansy
    Jeansy Posts: 73
    I recently received a ultra fire 980l, I know it is 3x the price of the wf502b I have but IMO it is still a massive bargain and a brilliant torch. Slightly larger head (ms head size) + a couple mm longer than the 502 but much brighter on high and really throws for such a small torch. Quality is miles better and the user interface much nicer to use. Heat is managed fine, iirc mine draws approx 2.9a from the cell after a minute or so of use.
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    how much and where from? I like the idea of no sos and strobe mode
  • Can someone simplify these lights for me. I've read loads of posts, but there's so many options...

    The torches I can understand, but the 'cells'... When I looked on Deal Extreme they looked like they took normal AA batteries. AAA, or whatever. Can you not just use normal rechargeables rather than risk burning your house down with a cheap charger built in a sweat shop?

    And what would be interesting to know, is if there are any equivalents sold in the UK...

    I do like the DIY approach, especially when it's cheap....but if it takes a few experiments to get it right it doesn't work out too cheap...
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    The individual torches state what batteries or cells they take. Most are not AA or AAA, but 18650 cells that need a dedicated charger.
  • OK, they look like AA, but actually output 3.7v. So can you not buy a UK charger. Everyone seems to talk about different options, different charging rates, etc, etc....

    In a nutshell, is there something you can plug in and not have to worry about anything else?
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    They are quite a bit bigger than AA! The chargers you see from foreign sites need an adpaptor plug. Or buy one with a UK plug:

    http://www.cloud9vaping.co.uk/epages/yx ... tViaPortal

    But cost a lot more. So I'd just get this:

    http://www.bestofferbuy.com/universal-u ... -6892.html
  • I'm gonna have to do some investigation into these. I'm still a bit confused.
  • Ok I'm sold on the lights ($45 XML's) but what about helmet lights? Is there a common package or bracket/torch combination that people are using? And are we best off with one torch on the top or a pair on either side for extra brightness?

    Regards, Steve
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    I'm gonna have to do some investigation into these. I'm still a bit confused.

    Common options and links in the stickies. But not the only way to do it.

    - Pick a torch
    - Buy cells that the torch needs
    - Buy charger the cells need
    - Buy UK plug adaptor if needed

    That's it!
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    butcher of bakersfield
    All of the lights are available in the UK, but they are sourced from probably the same factory. Its really down to paying a bit more and getting the light tomorrow or going direct and waiting 2-3 weeks.

    18650s are 3 times the power density of AAs, you can get AA versions of many, but they simply cannot deliver the power required.

    I think we probably over do the safety info on charging 18650s, yes there are risks, but probably similar to charging a camera battery or similar. The risk is really low quality cell left in a faulty charger. Keep the charging under 4 hours via a timer and charge in a biscuit tin or similar away from combustables and you really are looking at very low risk.
  • Jeansy
    Jeansy Posts: 73
    bob,
    I have some senybor 18700 from the Scottish seller on eBay, he also sells the xtar charger for them, well recommended edit: this guy http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-SenyBor-26 ... 2921wt_922

    For size comparison
    59BF9812-orig.jpg

    DIY
    The 980 with panasonic 3100s at 4.0v
    DSC02327.jpg
    I believe I got it from hkequipment
    http://www.hkequipment.net/?sp=&p=6&cat ... 7f&lang=en
    Although I don't think it was the cheapest I wanted some other stuff only they do so I took a small hit
  • supersonic wrote:
    - Pick a torch
    - Buy cells that the torch needs
    - Buy charger the cells need
    - Buy UK plug adaptor if needed

    That's it!

    I know, I know.

    But...
    diy wrote:
    Keep the charging under 4 hours via a timer and charge in a biscuit tin or similar away from combustables and you really are looking at very low risk.

    This is what I'm talking about! We have to charge them in a biscuit tin if we don't want to die???

    It all sounds like a great deal until you mention things like that :wink:
  • Dazzza
    Dazzza Posts: 2,364
    The trouble with having an open mind, of course, is that people will insist on coming along and trying to put things in it.
    Giant Anthem X
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    I put together a simple package here:

    http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopi ... 5#17265285

    Just buy that and you are away. The risk is low of the cells blowing up. More chance of crashing in the forest and the torch going up your aris.