Boardman CX Owners Thread

Strogauk

Viking2136 wrote:

Whats the stock free hub on a boardman - I need a new one!

The stock hubs on the Boardman CX Comp 2014 are manufactured by Formula however I couldn't tell the exact model as they have no distinct model number or markings on them that I've managed to find

Viking2136

Strogauk wrote:

Viking2136 wrote:

Whats the stock free hub on a boardman - I need a new one!

The stock hubs on the Boardman CX Comp 2014 are manufactured by Formula however I couldn't tell the exact model as they have no distinct model number or markings on them that I've managed to find

Cheers, ill keep looking

Strogauk

Has anyone used the BB7-S road brakes, If so what are they like and other than the colour is it worth paying the extra over the standard BB7?

Viking2136

Strogauk wrote:

Has anyone used the BB7-S road brakes, If so what are they like and other than the colour is it worth paying the extra over the standard BB7?

went from BB5 to BB7 still wasnt happy to went to TRP HyRd - now thats better, not as good as full hydro but better than 5s and 7s easy IMO

Strogauk

Viking2136 wrote:

Strogauk wrote:

Has anyone used the BB7-S road brakes, If so what are they like and other than the colour is it worth paying the extra over the standard BB7?

went from BB5 to BB7 still wasnt happy to went to TRP HyRd - now thats better, not as good as full hydro but better than 5s and 7s easy IMO

Got me tempted now. Am I right in thinking that there is no need for adjustment on Hydraulic disc brakes. Sick of spending my life tinkering to stop brakes from rubbing

dhope

Strogauk wrote:

Has anyone used the BB7-S road brakes, If so what are they like and other than the colour is it worth paying the extra over the standard BB7?

Yep, I have BB7 Road-SL as the front brake on my fixed.
Not as good as the Hydro brakes on the Canyon.
Miles better in the rain than the rim brake that was on the fixed before.

Still would consider moving to TRP-HyRd when I swap out my fork for one that suits the frame better.

Viking2136

Strogauk wrote:

Viking2136 wrote:

Strogauk wrote:

Has anyone used the BB7-S road brakes, If so what are they like and other than the colour is it worth paying the extra over the standard BB7?

went from BB5 to BB7 still wasnt happy to went to TRP HyRd - now thats better, not as good as full hydro but better than 5s and 7s easy IMO

Got me tempted now. Am I right in thinking that there is no need for adjustment on Hydraulic disc brakes. Sick of spending my life tinkering to stop brakes from rubbing

Correct, mine have had zero maint since I got them on, I hated rubbing discs every 2 minutes

ic.

I had BB7s on my CX Team. Far far better than BB5s, and more powerful than rim brakes. But what an enormous faff they are to set up. And then there is the bedding in time, they literally are useless at first and require a few decent rides to get powerful. But the biggest thing for me was the noise in the wet. Takes you by surprise the first time, almost enough of a shock to make you fall off the bike! They howled!

Strogauk

IC. wrote:

I had BB7s on my CX Team. Far far better than BB5s, and more powerful than rim brakes. But what an enormous faff they are to set up. And then there is the bedding in time, they literally are useless at first and require a few decent rides to get powerful. But the biggest thing for me was the noise in the wet. Takes you by surprise the first time, almost enough of a shock to make you fall off the bike! They howled!

Think I may hold off and save up for the Hy/Rd's

newtonuk

I fitted TRP Spyre brakes to my CX Team last night. An absolute doddle to fit, hopefully they will perform much better than the BB5s which had seized on the pad adjuster.

penguin_of_death

Had BB5's and now have BB7's - which are better - but set up a Genesis today with Spyres and it was easy to set up and felt great straight away, may have to save my pennies

newtonuk

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

newtonuk wrote:

Arthur, could you take us through servicing the rear hub at all? What tools are required? Can the average Joe complete the task?

Hi - yes not problem. You need cone spanners (I think 15mm & 16mm from memory) and a cassette tool and chain whip tool.
Start by removing the cassette from the freehub, lay the wheel drive side down and remove the rubber seal from the non drive side of the hub (use a flatbladed screwdriver or similar) and using the cone spanners undo the locknut, washer and cone from the axle while supporting the axle in place on the drive side (otherwise the axle will drop down and all the ball bearings too!)
You should now be able to access the nds ball bearings and remove them using a magnetised screw driver. Flip the wheel over and carefully withdraw the axle from the drive side (I normally put a cloth in the nds to stop the ball bearings from the ds dropping through) and remove the ball bearings from the ds. I always leave the ds cone assembly on the axle (unless it needs to be replaced) as this means everything should line up when you put it back together, this is especially important with disc brakes.
Clean everything up, be carefull with degreaser in the freehub as you can wash out the lubricant from the pawls and inner freehub bearing if you get careless.
Check the cones, ball bearings and seatings in the hub/freehub for pitting etc. The reality is that even if there is some minor pitting, you can get away with cleaning everything, regreasing and put it back together. Getting new cones and balls means a trip to your LBS (Halfords won't have the bits) so they can match up the cones (there are lots of different types) and I've not managed to buy these online.
Assuming all ok, clean everything apply grease to the hub and free hub bearing surfaces (I put in lots) and replace the ds ball bearings using the magnetic screwdriver , the grease will hold them in place (9 balls per side), then smear grease on the drive side cone (which is still on the axle) and carefully feed the axle past the balls until the cone is resting on the ball bearings. Holding it in place flip the wheel over and replace the nds ball bearings, grease the nds cone and thread it onto the axle, all the way down until it touches the balls. Everything should stay in place now, replace the washer and the locknut (serrated side out facing the drop out) Finally adjust the play in the bearings using the cone spanners (again only on the nds) taking out any play but leaving the wheel to rotate freely. This bit takes a bit of practice, trial and error - you are using two cone spanners, one on the cone, one on the locknut, tighten them against each other firmly so they don't undo. Replace the nds seal and you're done.
If you want to lubricate the free hub, there's a limit to what you can do. You'll need a 9mm (from memory) allen key which locates inside the hub when the axle has been removed. It's a normal thread, remove the freehub and clean it, where it mates with the hub there is a ball race covered by a rubber seal. You can carefully pick out the seal and apply chain lube or similar, then replace the seal and refit the free hub.

Don't think I've forgetten anything. To service the front hubs you'll need 17mm cone spanners.

Did the rear bearings tonight, piece of cake thanks to your instructions. I just hope I've tightened the cones enough and not too much!

bigmul

Hi, wondered if anyone has had cracks start to appear on their frame, and if so how you got it dealt with?

I know about the cracks to the paint on the side of the seat due to filler/heat/paint and agreed to the bike anyway. However was cleaning the bike and changing tyres and noticed the cracks around the front of the seat tube. Bike is over 12 months old, has had a few different bits put on it, what's the general thoughts on whether its metal or just paint and what might need to be done?

antsmithmk

Straight back to the shop imo.

bigmul

Will do that Sunday. I'm concerned that they'll want to keep it and send it off and I might not get everything back (kinesis wheels/ti saddle etc)....I'll give them a call first

timothyw

It's almost certainly just a superficial crack in the paint/filler they use to create the 'smooth weld' finish. There's been a few pictures over the years, here's the first example I can find from google:
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic ... re-content

Unless you have reason to suspect anything structural (eg weird creaking noises from the frame) I probably wouldn't bother, although obviously if they will swap out your frame it might help with your resale value should you ever decide to get rid of it.

bigmul

The bike does creak a bit now and then, but pretty sure that's saddle/seatpost/stem/bars - I can never find it....then again it could be the bloody frame!

apreading

bigmul wrote:

The bike does creak a bit now and then, but pretty sure that's saddle/seatpost/stem/bars - I can never find it....then again it could be the bloody frame!

I find with my hybrid it starts creaking and sounds like its BB but its actually the seatpost - take it out, wipe down, grease and refit and the creaking goes away for another 6 months(ish).

Does the creaking stop when you stand up?

bigmul

Yeah, I've greased and re-greased the seatpost and stem, I'm sure it's likely to be that - I've got a Deda seatpost in that might me a micron off the original size or something, it's the little things that drive you crackers!

apreading

could also be where the saddle is mounted on the post - did u grease that too?

or even pedals?

or chainring bolts?

newtonuk

Freehub... Is it worth trying to service the freehub on the CX Team or is it essentially a disposable item? After servicing the rear hub, it's quite clear that the freehub is now growling at me.

Does anybody know the part number and cost of a replacement freehub from Halfords?

arthur_scrimshaw

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19621051#p19621051]newtonuk[/url] wrote:

Freehub... Is it worth trying to service the freehub on the CX Team or is it essentially a disposable item? After servicing the rear hub, it's quite clear that the freehub is now growling at me.

Does anybody know the part number and cost of a replacement freehub from Halfords?

Very limited what you can do as I'm not aware you can dismantle it, I've bought one replacement which lasted 3000 miles (the first 6000!) - Halfords can order it for you. If you search back though the thread I posted about servicing the freehub.

newtonuk

Thanks Arthur, I've followed your suggestion and the rumbling noise has improved a little but not fully.

I don't know if it's the hub or the freewheel that's at fault, but they've all had a good coating of fresh grease now. Might be new bearings when I can be bothered to do it again.

bigmul

Quick update on the cracked frame - took to local halfords, they are going to check over but look to be getting me a new frame and moving everything over to it for next week....!

newtonuk

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19624645#p19624645]newtonuk[/url] wrote:

Thanks Arthur, I've followed your suggestion and the rumbling noise has improved a little but not fully.

I don't know if it's the hub or the freewheel that's at fault, but they've all had a good coating of fresh grease now. Might be new bearings when I can be bothered to do it again.

Replaced the bearings and, to be honest, there's not much difference! A chap on another forum suggested that the Formula hubs are a straight swap out for Shimano XT ones, so I may take a crash course in wheel building and see where I get to.

newtonuk

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19630270#p19630270]bigmul[/url] wrote:

Quick update on the cracked frame - took to local halfords, they are going to check over but look to be getting me a new frame and moving everything over to it for next week....!

Good result! I'd just check all the bolts for tightness when you get it back... :roll:

bigmul

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19630286#p19630286]newtonuk[/url] wrote:

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19630270#p19630270]bigmul[/url] wrote:

Quick update on the cracked frame - took to local halfords, they are going to check over but look to be getting me a new frame and moving everything over to it for next week....!

Good result! I'd just check all the bolts for tightness when you get it back... :roll:

Too right...and that all MY kit is on there too!

bigmul

I appear to have bought a 2012 CX Team frame on ebay for under £100 but no forks. I was going to get my teenage son a CX this Summer, but this seems an ideal opportunity to build myself something nice instead!

I can take the Kinesis wheels, stem, seatpost, saddle, pedals, BB7's which are aftermarket and put them on this frame and replace with the original parts. I figured I'd get a 105 groupset for the new build as they're under £300 so will just needs a few extras like some bars, BB adapter etc...

I now need some help on which forks to get. Kinesis CXD's seem ideal, but are around £200. Forks I need are tapered (1.1/8” to 1.1/2”) - anyone got ideas about other forks that aren't MTB/800g and would work here?

Ta!

cheddarpaul

Thinking of upgrading the stock AVID brakes on my 2015 CX for a set of TRPs as they dont give me a lot of confidence when offroad, but have a few questions before I press the "Buy" button:

1. Recommendation between HY-RD and Spyre?
2. Can I just remove the AVIDs and swap in the TRPs calipers, what other adjustments will be needed?
3. What pads do they use as I may as well get a spare set at the same time?


Thanks in advance.....

newtonuk

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19634019#p19634019]cheddarpaul[/url] wrote:

Thinking of upgrading the stock AVID brakes on my 2015 CX for a set of TRPs as they dont give me a lot of confidence when offroad, but have a few questions before I press the "Buy" button:

1. Recommendation between HY-RD and Spyre?
2. Can I just remove the AVIDs and swap in the TRPs calipers, what other adjustments will be needed?
3. What pads do they use as I may as well get a spare set at the same time?


Thanks in advance.....

Hi cheddarpaul, let me share my experience with you...

1. Most folk say that you get the best of both worlds with the Hy-Rd brakes, however my LBS is adamant that in his experience you actually get the worst of both. I have no experience either way and they were too expensive for me, so I stuck with the Spyre

2. In essence yes, that's all you need to do. I was removing the cross levers and replacing brake cables at the same time so my job was a little more involved, but aside from that, the installation of the Spyres took minutes. I had to double check that I wasn't missing several pages from the instructions and was pleasantly surprised that they worked when I had finished.

3. The Spyres use the same pattern as Shimano Deore M515/M525 according to their website