Boardman CX Owners Thread

fret

Howdy, peeps. Long time no postee.
I see the troll is still trying to wind people up.

Latest reports on my 2012 CX. ummmm, nothing to report really. I had a click from the crank/BB/pedals/cleats this week past. Regreased the BB and tghtened the cleats in my shoes and it's gone, but as the bearings are over a year old I have ordered some new ones.

Snow tyres have been fitted to the Kinesis Crosslights on the Planet X and possibly swapped onto the CX if we get snow.

The wheelset I have been using for the last year is now up for sale at £300.00, they are handmade and cost over £400.00. Weight is a mere 1410 grammes. During the last 4000 miles they have been trued just the once. You can only fit 23 or 25mm tyres to them, but I have run 32's on them as well to be honset. Fitted with a Shimano Ultegra 6700 11-25 cassette which has had some cogs replaced (the usual mainly used ones) about 6 months ago

The only reason for selling is that I want to fit the same wheels to both bikes to make swapping between road and off road tyres easier.
Still using GATORSKINS. I have had literally one puncture in over a year, this Friday and on inspection the tyres are so worn it's no wonder it happened and they have been thrown away after well over 4000 miles.

Everything else is working fine, just a chain and cables changed in the last year. Took it to Germany and Holland in September and did a few miles.

Give me a shout if you're interested in the wheels. Novatec hubs, Sapim Laser spokes, Ryde Pulse Rims. There are some pics on here last Feb.

arthur_scrimshaw

I was wondering where you'd got to!

Nice wheels - I'm running 38 mm snow studs on mine atm and put a set of 45mm SKS longboards to replace the 35 chromoplastics. Really nice mudguards, a true black but had to cut back the front guard as it was too long - almost rubbing on the ground. I serviced both hubs and freewheel at the weekend, yesterday the temps hit about -4 and the freehub was frozen = no drive, soon got it working again (not by using the traditional method!) but then the rear brake cable froze on the ride in to work.

newtonuk

Arthur, could you take us through servicing the rear hub at all? What tools are required? Can the average Joe complete the task?

arthur_scrimshaw

newtonuk wrote:

Arthur, could you take us through servicing the rear hub at all? What tools are required? Can the average Joe complete the task?

Hi - yes not problem. You need cone spanners (I think 15mm & 16mm from memory) and a cassette tool and chain whip tool.
Start by removing the cassette from the freehub, lay the wheel drive side down and remove the rubber seal from the non drive side of the hub (use a flatbladed screwdriver or similar) and using the cone spanners undo the locknut, washer and cone from the axle while supporting the axle in place on the drive side (otherwise the axle will drop down and all the ball bearings too!)
You should now be able to access the nds ball bearings and remove them using a magnetised screw driver. Flip the wheel over and carefully withdraw the axle from the drive side (I normally put a cloth in the nds to stop the ball bearings from the ds dropping through) and remove the ball bearings from the ds. I always leave the ds cone assembly on the axle (unless it needs to be replaced) as this means everything should line up when you put it back together, this is especially important with disc brakes.
Clean everything up, be carefull with degreaser in the freehub as you can wash out the lubricant from the pawls and inner freehub bearing if you get careless.
Check the cones, ball bearings and seatings in the hub/freehub for pitting etc. The reality is that even if there is some minor pitting, you can get away with cleaning everything, regreasing and put it back together. Getting new cones and balls means a trip to your LBS (Halfords won't have the bits) so they can match up the cones (there are lots of different types) and I've not managed to buy these online.
Assuming all ok, clean everything apply grease to the hub and free hub bearing surfaces (I put in lots) and replace the ds ball bearings using the magnetic screwdriver , the grease will hold them in place (9 balls per side), then smear grease on the drive side cone (which is still on the axle) and carefully feed the axle past the balls until the cone is resting on the ball bearings. Holding it in place flip the wheel over and replace the nds ball bearings, grease the nds cone and thread it onto the axle, all the way down until it touches the balls. Everything should stay in place now, replace the washer and the locknut (serrated side out facing the drop out) Finally adjust the play in the bearings using the cone spanners (again only on the nds) taking out any play but leaving the wheel to rotate freely. This bit takes a bit of practice, trial and error - you are using two cone spanners, one on the cone, one on the locknut, tighten them against each other firmly so they don't undo. Replace the nds seal and you're done.
If you want to lubricate the free hub, there's a limit to what you can do. You'll need a 9mm (from memory) allen key which locates inside the hub when the axle has been removed. It's a normal thread, remove the freehub and clean it, where it mates with the hub there is a ball race covered by a rubber seal. You can carefully pick out the seal and apply chain lube or similar, then replace the seal and refit the free hub.

Don't think I've forgetten anything. To service the front hubs you'll need 17mm cone spanners.

newtonuk

Thank you! You make it sound so easy :-)

arthur_scrimshaw

No worries, it is simple, you just need to take your time and think about what you're doing. It can get a little frustrating when you think you've done it perfectly and then you find a bit to much play when you refit the wheel, persevere - you'll get there.

fret

Rode the XLS to work yesterday with snow tyres on. Jeez, that was hard work. It feels like you are riding through sand. They weigh about a ton and cornering on knobblies and studs is "entertaining" shall we say. Back on road tyres today, much bettererer.

I also had the rear brake freeze last week. A bad design as the top of the adjuster is prone to water ingress, but it seems OK now after cleaning it. Mind you, it was around -6 at times with the wind chill

fret

First breakdown for the CX in 2 1/3 years!!!!!

The lower of the rear derailleur jockey wheels jammed solid on the way home tonight after 2 years of contant use and often abuse. It freed itself but jammed a further 5 or 6 times. Certainly got some odd looks from pedestrians with the chain going DRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR over the cogs. :oops:

Anyhooo, I took the jockey wheel out and the bearings were jammed, funnily though there were only about 6 inside, so unless some have disintegrated then I don't know what caused it. I managed to get a few more in, but the bearing faces are grooved, making refitting very difficult. It seems OK now, but I will order a new set just in case.
I can't recall greasing them on the last service, so it may be totally my fault. :oops:


And naturally this would not have happened with a steel framed monster.

fret

Ordered new SRAM OEM sprockers from Chain Reaction early yesterday and they arived this morning. £13.99, not a bad price even if there were aftermarket ones cheaper. Shifting seems better as well.
Just as well as riding the snow tyres is like ridng through sand.

Viking2136

Time for a change and I think I know which what Fret will go on this one. I've been racing the Boardmans for 2 years now and fancy an upgrade/change and something a little lighter for my old bones to peddle.

Still going to keep 1 Boardman as my weekday commuter but a new girl is on the cards, same prices and nearly the same spec but which one of these do you prefer or have heard good or bad about:

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBPXXLSCX1 ... cross-bike

or

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/vitu ... prod120681

decisions decisions!!!!! :?: :?: :?: :?:

tincaman

The Vitus looks good, sensible,neat cable routing, nice light wheels

Viking2136

Must admit Im leaning more towards the Vitus because of its better finish and that Im not too keen on a set of tubs that are on the PX

fret

That VITUS is extremely light for what you get. Hard decision as you say, but you can always spec the XLS with clincher wheels.
Don't believe the weight of the XLS either, they are no lighter than the Boardmans we own. In fact, my Boardman is lighter.

Viking2136

Thanks Fret i like your 8.5 Ive got mine to just under 10kg but Ive looked at upgrading but its about the same price plus I need a commuter to beat up all summer, Ive been looking for a 53cm 2012 grey one but keep getting out bid - Ive lowered my sights now and looking at this

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBPXXLSRIV ... cross-bike

but looking to have tubs with it too for racing, decision based on I ripped2 apex derailleur off this winter in races and the CX1 RD comes in over £150 - its an expensive replacement but the rival is less that £40 so it seem good value.

A mate has the CX and it weighs slightly under 8kg

Viking2136

Wow more decisions, Halfords just dropped the CX Team to £764 with 10% off for BC membership thats £697 - carbon wheels and HR RD could be the option!!!!!!!!

http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/r ... -bike-2014

relik

Just in the process of building my 2012 Team frame (Which I nearly sold) back up with the v3 Kinesis wheels, 5800 and some CX-77 brakes. Still a lovely looking bike I intend to actually use it for a bit of off road stuff this time.

I replaced the headset bearings and if anyone is interested the details on new set were:
TH MR121 1 - 1/8 45x45
TH MR1271 1.5 36x45

fret

I'm thinking of selling the Planet X ang getting a Boardman Hybrid for the commute and using the CX for sportives and the odd CX foray. I can't see what I can do to make it lighter, apart from the brakes which are still OEM, the saddle, bar stem and some lighter 23 tyres. But that's about it and probably only 1-200 grammes at best.

Viking2136

Fret, whats the spec of your CX to get it to 8.5?

fret

Weight is obviously without the pedals and bottle cages, pump, lights, muduards etc.OEM Frame and forks.
BB5 brakes (still)
Hand made wheels, Ryde Pulse rims, Novatec hubs, Sapim spokes. £415 and only 1400g
SRAM red shifters, £150.00
SRAM Force front, rear mech and chainset. About £150-200 350 ish grammes
Carbon seat post, £50? Can't remember 100+g
Specialized Phenom saddle From my old CX9
23mm Gatorskins, wired bead. £40.00 400g
Various small bolts changed to Titanium. Free from work.
Titanium skewers (Although now changed back to normal Shimano ones as they were rubbish)
So you can see it's not cheap to do it and it's at the same spec now as the Pro (apart from the brakes)

All I can do now is lose weight on the 'bars, stem, brakes, tyres and saddle, but that Phenom is sooooo comfortable. I can't recall if I weighed it and then took off the 100g of bar levers though.

Anyway, serious chain suck tonight changing down to the small ring. I don't know what rubbish they chuck on our roads in cold weather, but it turned my chain into rusty goo over the weekend causing the sucking. I'll give it a clean and relube as salt takes all the oil off.

Viking2136

Very nice set up, I've got single ring on the front as well - less mud clag during races, if I can pick up a grey 2012 frame for the right price ae im going to build another

relik

fret probably has the lightest Boardman CX known to humanity

Rebuilt with 5800, CX-77 brakes and Kinesis v3 wheels my 2012 frame came in at just on 10kg. That's with 35mm Vittoria Randonneur tyres and M540 mtb pedals though. It'd be about 9.2 without.

Viking2136

Mine has a carbon seat post, Charge Spoon saddle, trp hyrd brakes and the same Kinesis Wheels and it comes in at dead on 10 with pedals and gator skins, can only dream of 8.5 - it would be cheaper having a gastric band fitted and loosing a stone!!!!

newtonuk

New forks...

antsmithmk

This thread isn't as popular as it once was. Has the Boardman CX range been overtaken by other bikes now as the go to commuter choice? I see far more bikes for similar prices and similar specs than a couple of years ago.

timothyw

They need a 2015 model with TRP or proper hydraulic brakes for a similarly good price, although I'd have thought if one was coming we'd have heard about it by now.

The 2014 was a bit of a washout with paint cracks and forks lacking mudguard mounts, and plenty of other manufacturers have come out with disc equipped road/cross bikes - with all the horror stories about Halfords mechanics over the years you can understand why people are looking elsewhere.

I think the constant flash sales are also a bit self defeating - not to mention halfords blatant policy of selling BSOs for £300 'down from £600' which are probably only worth £200.

newtonuk

newtonuk wrote:

New forks...

With mudguard eyelets...

fret

Viking2136 wrote:

Mine has a carbon seat post, Charge Spoon saddle, trp hyrd brakes and the same Kinesis Wheels and it comes in at dead on 10 with pedals and gator skins, can only dream of 8.5 - it would be cheaper having a gastric band fitted and loosing a stone!!!!

Tighten it up if it's loose. :twisted:

I've just sold my wheels, which are really just road wheels as they only take 23 and 25mm tyres (even if I have been using 32mm on them for the last few weeks.
Going to buy some more Kinesis wheels so both bikes have the same and all I have to do is swap between road or knobblies and only have to worry about one size of inner tube. So theres 150g put back on, but at my age I don't think it will slow me down any and comfort comes first.
Also tempted to sell the Planet X as I rarely use it, did one event last year and I'm thinking of a new car without faffing around with brakes. The fact the CX takes full
mudguards for commuting makes a hell ofa difference as well.

I still think value for money the Boardman is brilliant, but as it is totally owned by Halfords now then I see it going downhill. Certainly the awful colour silver one didn't seem to sell as well as the grey, so they really need to rethink to keep up with the rest of the manufacturers now as there are far better bikes around, Tiagra and 105 are still the best workhorses.

Viking2136

newtonuk wrote:

newtonuk wrote:

New forks...

Did you get them gratis or did you have to part with cash?
With mudguard eyelets...

fret

Should be free as the descripton always said mudguard compatible.

Just taken the wheels of mine ready to send to the lucky buyer. Gave them a good clean and they still look like new. I couldn't be bothered to swap tyres around again so the XLS is on commuting duties this week with snow tyres on. Let's hope it doesn't rain too mauch as it's only sporting clip on mudguards.

Now to buy some more Crosslights.

newtonuk

Yeah, swapped under warranty. Been in communication with Boardman for over a year about it, so it's taken some persistence.