Boardman CX Owners Thread

Viking2136

newtonuk wrote:

Yeah, swapped under warranty. Been in communication with Boardman for over a year about it, so it's taken some persistence.

newtonuk wrote:

Yeah, swapped under warranty. Been in communication with Boardman for over a year about it, so it's taken some persistence.

Good drills mate, might try my local halfrauds and see if i can get a set

Viking2136

Well that didnt work - Halfords reply:

I am sorry but we are only replacing the fork on bike brought in October 2013 when there was an error on our website saying that it was mudguard compatible fork which was quickly amended on the website.

fret

Sad news indeed.

Mine is currently out of service due to no wheels. The XLS is on commuting duties complete with studded snow tyres (in the dry) until the new wheels arrive.

apreading

Viking2136 wrote:

Well that didnt work - Halfords reply:

I am sorry but we are only replacing the fork on bike brought in October 2013 when there was an error on our website saying that it was mudguard compatible fork which was quickly amended on the website.

So does this mean that new ones still dont get the mudguard mounts either? Or just that people who got one without the mounts wont have theirs replaced unless they bought in October 2013?

newtonuk

I was told that the new bikes, that are now being built, will come with the new fork.

cheddarpaul

As a new CX owner, I wonder what tyres do most people use for road use? I have seen a lot of discussion over Schwalbe Marathon Plux V Gatorskins, what sizes do people go for, 25, 28, 32, different??

newtonuk

I'm currently using 28mm Gator Hardshells. I've still had punctures, 2 since October 2013 (watch that now, it'll be 3 tonight).

W12_Lad

28mm Durano.
No punctures in 2100 miles.

fret

Gatorskins 23mm for 2 years and around 8000-9000 miles. ONE, yes just ONE puncture in a year or 4000 miles and that was the second year of their life. Recently binned as there was a nasty split and now on Gator Hardshells 32mm that were in the shed which I thought were 28's :oops: .
I also had some Bontrager Racelites that had one puncture after 8 months use, now discontinued but opgraded but very heavy compared to Gators.
I've used 23 and 25mm mainly on my older road bike when I had it, no difference really, but they say 25 is just as quick, more comfortable and not much more weight. I haven't yet tried 28mm, so may do next

There is no BEST tyre, all will puncture at some stage. I always recommend gatorskins as I commute 9 miles each way every day, all year round and they have been the best I have tried so far and certainly lighter than most puncture resistant tyres. They still roll well and grip is excellent all year round too, I don't even bother fitting a "summer" tyre either.
GP4000 or is is 4 season? also get a very good report.

Viking2136

Im on Gator skins 32mm (I like the comfort) I do 35 miles a day into work and back on cycle path, tow path and road, not 1 puncture in 18 months - love them, Ive used them in summer and winter no problems at all - no knee down on the corners!

fret

Sad news on the brakes front today.

Whilst fitting the new Kinesis Crosslights I noticed the rear adjsuter on the OEM BB5 had seized. Even tring a Torx bit just rounded off the "nut" and a pair of mole grips has made a mess of the adjuster wheel. So time for some BB7's or even TRP HY-Rds.

Still, 2 1/2 years and around 13000 miles in all weathers isn't bad I guess

timothyw

fret wrote:

Sad news on the brakes front today.

Whilst fitting the new Kinesis Crosslights I noticed the rear adjsuter on the OEM BB5 had seized. Even tring a Torx bit just rounded off the "nut" and a pair of mole grips has made a mess of the adjuster wheel. So time for some BB7's or even TRP HY-Rds.

Still, 2 1/2 years and around 13000 miles in all weathers isn't bad I guess

Mine didn't last nearly so long, I went for Spyres, miles better than the BB5s, much easier to adjust and no static pad to seize. The BB7s work in the same way as BB5s so are just as liable to seizing up sooner or later (and nearly as fiddly to adjust as the bb5)

Still, I imaging the Hy-Rds are even better if you want to splash the cash.

Viking2136

Im on the Hy-Rds - not maint what so ever - love them

fret

I wish I had the cash for HYRD, but I got a bargain today for some BB7-SL. £87.00 for the pair, normally £100.00 EACH. I think the shop had them listed incorrectly and even if they are normal BB7 then that's still good.
I have read reports of HYRD's leaking after a year and for a commuter the cable and mechanical operation of a BB7 is better, plus having learnt that they MAY seize I now know to give them attention at service time every 6 months. Or at least that is what I am telling myself as I would kill for some HYRD's.

fret

Sadly not the SL model, but I did point it out to the shop and they gave me £20 off. So a pair of BB7 for £64 can't be sneezed at.
But, like an idiot, I brought the works van home and left the CX at work so we'll have to wait to fit them.

arthur_scrimshaw

I've just fitted a TRP Spyre to the CX (front) - I'm using the standard Ritchey OCR wheels and the clearance between the caliper and the spokes is minute, less than a millimeter. I considered putting spacer washers behind the rotor or adjusting the wheel bearing to move it out but there's not much clearance between the rotor and the fork leg - probably 2mm? Anyone else had this issue?

penguin_of_death

fret wrote:

Sad news on the brakes front today.

Whilst fitting the new Kinesis Crosslights I noticed the rear adjsuter on the OEM BB5 had seized. Even tring a Torx bit just rounded off the "nut" and a pair of mole grips has made a mess of the adjuster wheel. So time for some BB7's or even TRP HY-Rds.

Still, 2 1/2 years and around 13000 miles in all weathers isn't bad I guess

Too late but you can pop the red plastic part of the adjuster off leaving a 8mm (I think) nut with a torx hole in it, the 8mm is very useful for unsticking the adjuster.

But BB7s are great

timothyw

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

I've just fitted a TRP Spyre to the CX (front) - I'm using the standard Ritchey OCR wheels and the clearance between the caliper and the spokes is minute, less than a millimeter. I considered putting spacer washers behind the rotor or adjusting the wheel bearing to move it out but there's not much clearance between the rotor and the fork leg - probably 2mm? Anyone else had this issue?

To be honest, if you can't hear the Spyre strumming the spokes when you are climbing out of the saddle then it probably isn't worth worrying about, but if you want a quick fix:
- Screw in the barrel adjuster to loosen off the cable tension
- Loosen the two post mount screws, so allowing the spyre to slide from side to side
- fully loosen off the 3mm allen pad adjuster on the spoke side (if it isn't already)
- tighten up the 3mm allen key pad adjuster on the outside until it is nearly clamping the rotor, you want to leave a little gap
- squeeze the brake lever to clamp the rotor between the two pads then tighten the two post mount screws again in the new position
- bring back up the cable tension as required with the barrel adjuster, give the wheel a spin to check the brakes aren't rubbing, make any fine adjustments as necessary.

This should result in the Spyre being a little bit further away from the spokes.

tkmaxxx

ive been though all the pages here - 2004 normal CX owner here, ive signed up for a london - amsterdam ride and want to loose some weight! i find the bike a good few kg heavier than the other club members - whats the best way to put the bike on a diet ? im assuming a new set of wheels first.. i dont really have a clue about thinks kind of thing what do people recommend to purchase ? i dont want to spend 'silly'money but are their any suggestions? thanks !

apreading

Definitely wheels first - Kinesis Crosslights seem to be the ideal factory build (handbuilts might be better but would be more expensive).

Dont know if you have aluminium or carbon forks but if the former then switching to carbon would save weight and improve ride quality immensely.

Chainset is probably heavy and you can save a bit of weight here but not cheap.

Cassette you can save weight on cheaply/easily and a better one will shift better too.

Seatpost and Handlebars could easily save weight.

arthur_scrimshaw

TimothyW wrote:

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

I've just fitted a TRP Spyre to the CX (front) - I'm using the standard Ritchey OCR wheels and the clearance between the caliper and the spokes is minute, less than a millimeter. I considered putting spacer washers behind the rotor or adjusting the wheel bearing to move it out but there's not much clearance between the rotor and the fork leg - probably 2mm? Anyone else had this issue?

To be honest, if you can't hear the Spyre strumming the spokes when you are climbing out of the saddle then it probably isn't worth worrying about, but if you want a quick fix:
- Screw in the barrel adjuster to loosen off the cable tension
- Loosen the two post mount screws, so allowing the spyre to slide from side to side
- fully loosen off the 3mm allen pad adjuster on the spoke side (if it isn't already)
- tighten up the 3mm allen key pad adjuster on the outside until it is nearly clamping the rotor, you want to leave a little gap
- squeeze the brake lever to clamp the rotor between the two pads then tighten the two post mount screws again in the new position
- bring back up the cable tension as required with the barrel adjuster, give the wheel a spin to check the brakes aren't rubbing, make any fine adjustments as necessary.

This should result in the Spyre being a little bit further away from the spokes.

Thanks for the reply, I did hear something out of the saddle so sat down quick! The inboard pad adjuster was set all the way in so I don't think I can gain any clearance that way. Under normal conditions it's fine, so my preferred option of a new set of wheels may have to wait.

timothyw

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

TimothyW wrote:

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

I've just fitted a TRP Spyre to the CX (front) - I'm using the standard Ritchey OCR wheels and the clearance between the caliper and the spokes is minute, less than a millimeter. I considered putting spacer washers behind the rotor or adjusting the wheel bearing to move it out but there's not much clearance between the rotor and the fork leg - probably 2mm? Anyone else had this issue?

To be honest, if you can't hear the Spyre strumming the spokes when you are climbing out of the saddle then it probably isn't worth worrying about, but if you want a quick fix:
- Screw in the barrel adjuster to loosen off the cable tension
- Loosen the two post mount screws, so allowing the spyre to slide from side to side
- fully loosen off the 3mm allen pad adjuster on the spoke side (if it isn't already)
- tighten up the 3mm allen key pad adjuster on the outside until it is nearly clamping the rotor, you want to leave a little gap
- squeeze the brake lever to clamp the rotor between the two pads then tighten the two post mount screws again in the new position
- bring back up the cable tension as required with the barrel adjuster, give the wheel a spin to check the brakes aren't rubbing, make any fine adjustments as necessary.

This should result in the Spyre being a little bit further away from the spokes.

Thanks for the reply, I did hear something out of the saddle so sat down quick! The inboard pad adjuster was set all the way in so I don't think I can gain any clearance that way. Under normal conditions it's fine, so my preferred option of a new set of wheels may have to wait.

Hi Arthur
It isn't about whether the spoke side adjuster is already all the way out, it's about shifting the relative position of the caliper. So now your brakes will be something like this, | is your disc rotor, < and > are the pads, --- represents the rest of the spyre:

Not braking : --> | <--
Braking: --->|<---

What you want is to shift it so the rotor is slightly off center relative to the caliper body, like this:

Not braking: ----> | <
braking:

---

>|<-

All I will say is it doesn't really matter if you understand what I'm trying to tell you, but if you follow the process the end result will be that the caliper is further from the spokes.

arthur_scrimshaw

Ok I get you now. I'll try that tonight. Cheers!

newtonuk

TimothyW wrote:

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

I've just fitted a TRP Spyre to the CX (front) - I'm using the standard Ritchey OCR wheels and the clearance between the caliper and the spokes is minute, less than a millimeter. I considered putting spacer washers behind the rotor or adjusting the wheel bearing to move it out but there's not much clearance between the rotor and the fork leg - probably 2mm? Anyone else had this issue?

To be honest, if you can't hear the Spyre strumming the spokes when you are climbing out of the saddle then it probably isn't worth worrying about, but if you want a quick fix:
- Screw in the barrel adjuster to loosen off the cable tension
- Loosen the two post mount screws, so allowing the spyre to slide from side to side
- fully loosen off the 3mm allen pad adjuster on the spoke side (if it isn't already)
- tighten up the 3mm allen key pad adjuster on the outside until it is nearly clamping the rotor, you want to leave a little gap
- squeeze the brake lever to clamp the rotor between the two pads then tighten the two post mount screws again in the new position
- bring back up the cable tension as required with the barrel adjuster, give the wheel a spin to check the brakes aren't rubbing, make any fine adjustments as necessary.

This should result in the Spyre being a little bit further away from the spokes.

How does that move the rotor further away from the fork leg?

timothyw

newtonuk wrote:

TimothyW wrote:

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

I've just fitted a TRP Spyre to the CX (front) - I'm using the standard Ritchey OCR wheels and the clearance between the caliper and the spokes is minute, less than a millimeter. I considered putting spacer washers behind the rotor or adjusting the wheel bearing to move it out but there's not much clearance between the rotor and the fork leg - probably 2mm? Anyone else had this issue?

To be honest, if you can't hear the Spyre strumming the spokes when you are climbing out of the saddle then it probably isn't worth worrying about, but if you want a quick fix:
- Screw in the barrel adjuster to loosen off the cable tension
- Loosen the two post mount screws, so allowing the spyre to slide from side to side
- fully loosen off the 3mm allen pad adjuster on the spoke side (if it isn't already)
- tighten up the 3mm allen key pad adjuster on the outside until it is nearly clamping the rotor, you want to leave a little gap
- squeeze the brake lever to clamp the rotor between the two pads then tighten the two post mount screws again in the new position
- bring back up the cable tension as required with the barrel adjuster, give the wheel a spin to check the brakes aren't rubbing, make any fine adjustments as necessary.

This should result in the Spyre being a little bit further away from the spokes.

How does that move the rotor further away from the fork leg?

It doesn't, it moves the spyre (caliper) away from the spokes.

newtonuk

Ah, got you.

tkmaxxx

thats great ! so is this the kind of thing ?

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/kinesis-crossli ... 60632014uk

i dont have a carbon fork (could be expensive ? !) and im open to suggestions of what other bits to buy

what sort of saving is this going to be over the std rims?
thanks

apreading wrote:

Definitely wheels first - Kinesis Crosslights seem to be the ideal factory build (handbuilts might be better but would be more expensive).

Dont know if you have aluminium or carbon forks but if the former then switching to carbon would save weight and improve ride quality immensely.

Chainset is probably heavy and you can save a bit of weight here but not cheap.

Cassette you can save weight on cheaply/easily and a better one will shift better too.

Seatpost and Handlebars could easily save weight.

apreading

Those are the ones - will save you more than half a kilo! Nowhere seems to be selling them cheap right now - often someone has 10% off and in fact I got mine when PBK had 20% off for about £210. That was the cheapest I ever saw them but you can regularly get them for around £230-240 if you can wait.

If you have the alu fork then I would be wary of putting too much money into the other components on the bike because that money would probably be better spent upgrading the bike itself. Used carbon forks from Boardmans come up on ebay regularly and seem to be around £80-£120. I dont know which year you have though and whether you need the tapered steerer or not.

tkmaxxx

thanks will keep an eye out - its a 2014 (the black cx comp)

fret

Too late but you can pop the red plastic part of the adjuster off leaving a 8mm (I think) nut with a torx hole in it, the 8mm is very useful for unsticking the adjuster.

Rounded that off as well. Totally seized.

My Crosslights were £245.00 The cheapest I could find. A worthwhile investment and the best and cheapest way to lose weight. 100g from wheels is equivalent to 300g they say.