Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

spasypaddy

theres lots of important info missing from those two posts

bushu

Another brake inner arrived today, suppose i should now re-cable the front brake so its long enough to wrap up into the bar tape and thus get the bars wrapped up again.. been worryin about this part more than the quill stem :?

EDIT - chickened out for now, found some fettling on the trek to be gettin on with - cut housing & routed gears
Trek project just requires indexing and front tyre/tube, may have a short play before getting it out the house for a relaxing life doing family duties with my sister and her tribe

Lazarus

Okay decided winter is over so.... Brake cables and sleeves, gear cables and sleeves,new tyres,chain and cassette, brake pads and some lovely new bar tape are all ready to be put on plus a general strip down and clean is due.

I may be sometime...

jds_1981

Summer time, so spinning is out -

asprilla

Brakes re-cabled and set up on the Burls. Tried and failed again to remove the drive side pedal and in the process noticed the chain rings were in pretty poor shape. Swapped the crankset off the CX and ordered some CX suitable chain rings to replace the knackered ones.

Tomorrow is gear cabling and indexing.

rubertoe

Adjusted the rear disc, it now spins freely.

Adjusted the H/L limit on the front derailiur as the chain kept coming off when I shifted to the BIG ring. I do have an annoying clicking sound that I think is originating from the BB, cranks, pedals or cleats that will need fettling away as it is getting on my tits, also need to fettle the rear mech, Just a half turn should do it.

if that dont work, then the whole groupo will be coming off, cleaned and re-fitted with new cables.

spasypaddy

just fitted an arundel chrono onto my TT bike

asprilla

Gear cables partially fitted thus evening. Realised the bb cable guide had been removed when the frame was repaired. Nowhere to be seen in the box. My own stupid fault for not removing it in the first place.

menthel

Fettled back disc brake so it no longer sounds like I am sharpening knives whilst cycling along. Now front brake is making the knife sharpening noise! Blasted disc brakes.

spasypaddy

so that bottle lasted less than a mile before it fell out and got run over by a bus.

so now have a specialized time trial one on there instead. gutted doesnt cover it

rubertoe

spasypaddy wrote:

so that bottle lasted less than a mile before it fell out and got run over by a bus.

so now have a specialized time trial one on there instead. gutted doesnt cover it

Do what the schlecks do and get a camelback under your jeresey...

rolf_f

spasypaddy wrote:

so that bottle lasted less than a mile before it fell out and got run over by a bus.

Pfft - put it on the TT bike; it is now ultra aero; it could save you 15 seconds on a 20miler.

dhope

spasypaddy wrote:

so that bottle lasted less than a mile before it fell out and got run over by a bus.

so now have a specialized time trial one on there instead. gutted doesnt cover it

But did you save half a second on that mile? If so, totally worth it

spasypaddy

well i sent a politely worded but very disappointed email to Arundel this morning. Lets see what they say.

Kieran_Burns

menthel wrote:

Fettled back disc brake so it no longer sounds like I am sharpening knives whilst cycling along. Now front brake is making the knife sharpening noise! Blasted disc brakes.

The trick I found was a combination of the "just put the brakes on and set" variant and the "put a business card and tighten the inside pad as much as possible" one.

You loosen off the inside pad, pop a business card in there then apply the brakes. Tighten the screws and bobs yer mother's brother.

That sets the orientation, then you adjust the inside pad until it JUST makes no noise then set the barrel adjuster on the cable until you get the right play on the levers.

The problem with the other two methods was that it effectively flexed the disc right at the point where the pads are, which puts everything out of alignment.

If you put a business card in and apply the brakes, the disc stays perpendicular and the inside pad has the correct orientation when tightening up.

jedster

on the subject of rear disc brakes, how does the above work with track ends?
When refitting the wheel, I find it a bit fiddly to keep the disc (i.e., wheel) aligned as I tighten the wheel nuts. Usually takes me a few attempts. Any tips?

rubertoe

jedster wrote:

on the subject of rear disc brakes, how does the above work with track ends?
When refitting the wheel, I find it a bit fiddly to keep the disc (i.e., wheel) aligned as I tighten the wheel nuts. Usually takes me a few attempts. Any tips?

Con on KB, I need to know this as well.

also KB, what did you do with the Callipers that you replaced with the Avids? I'm after some new ones to replace some dodgy shimano 505's.

Kieran_Burns

rubertoe wrote:

jedster wrote:

on the subject of rear disc brakes, how does the above work with track ends?
When refitting the wheel, I find it a bit fiddly to keep the disc (i.e., wheel) aligned as I tighten the wheel nuts. Usually takes me a few attempts. Any tips?

Con on KB, I need to know this as well.

also KB, what did you do with the Callipers that you replaced with the Avids? I'm after some new ones to replace some dodgy shimano 505's.

Mine came with Avids so nothing replaced and in answer to your question: stop riding trendy bikes, hipster 8)

Thinking about it though.... you could actually use the same technique while tightening the wheels nuts, but you'd need a spare set of hands to lock the brakes on.

menthel

Kieran_Burns wrote:

menthel wrote:

Fettled back disc brake so it no longer sounds like I am sharpening knives whilst cycling along. Now front brake is making the knife sharpening noise! Blasted disc brakes.

The trick I found was a combination of the "just put the brakes on and set" variant and the "put a business card and tighten the inside pad as much as possible" one.

You loosen off the inside pad, pop a business card in there then apply the brakes. Tighten the screws and bobs yer mother's brother.

That sets the orientation, then you adjust the inside pad until it JUST makes no noise then set the barrel adjuster on the cable until you get the right play on the levers.

The problem with the other two methods was that it effectively flexed the disc right at the point where the pads are, which puts everything out of alignment.

If you put a business card in and apply the brakes, the disc stays perpendicular and the inside pad has the correct orientation when tightening up.

Thanks. The problem with mine is that they are only adjustable with 1 pad. The instructions say that you have to adjust the non moving side with the barrel adjustors but this doesn't give much adjustment. The brakes are fairly cheap shimano ones and they do annoy me slightly!

Cafewanda

jedster wrote:

on the subject of rear disc brakes, how does the above work with track ends?
When refitting the wheel, I find it a bit fiddly to keep the disc (i.e., wheel) aligned as I tighten the wheel nuts. Usually takes me a few attempts. Any tips?

It always takes me a few attempts too. I think the process is called 'walking the wheel' where you gently tighten one side then the other.. Swearing and/or an alcoholic beverage sometimes helps

Initialised

Tweaked the squeal out of my BB5s

jockywilson

jedster wrote:

on the subject of rear disc brakes, how does the above work with track ends?
When refitting the wheel, I find it a bit fiddly to keep the disc (i.e., wheel) aligned as I tighten the wheel nuts. Usually takes me a few attempts. Any tips?

Have you got chain tugs fitted? They've made chainline adjustment much easier on my fixed gear since i got them....

veronese68

menthel wrote:

Thanks. The problem with mine is that they are only adjustable with 1 pad. The instructions say that you have to adjust the non moving side with the barrel adjustors but this doesn't give much adjustment. The brakes are fairly cheap shimano ones and they do annoy me slightly!

But Shirley, the barrel adjuster won't have any effect on a fixed pad. You can only move the fixed pad by moving the caliper.
Is it post mount? If so loosen the mounting bolts right off, release any cable tension, stick a business card between the fixed pad and the disc, wind the adjustable pad right in to lock it in place, tighten the bolts up gredually alternating from one to the other. The caliper and fixed pad are now in the right place and you can set up the adjustable pad until it runs quietly then set your cable up and as KB said Robert's your mother's brother.

menthel

Veronese68 wrote:

menthel wrote:

Thanks. The problem with mine is that they are only adjustable with 1 pad. The instructions say that you have to adjust the non moving side with the barrel adjustors but this doesn't give much adjustment. The brakes are fairly cheap shimano ones and they do annoy me slightly!

But Shirley, the barrel adjuster won't have any effect on a fixed pad. You can only move the fixed pad by moving the caliper.
Is it post mount? If so loosen the mounting bolts right off, release any cable tension, stick a business card between the fixed pad and the disc, wind the adjustable pad right in to lock it in place, tighten the bolts up gredually alternating from one to the other. The caliper and fixed pad are now in the right place and you can set up the adjustable pad until it runs quietly then set your cable up and as KB said Robert's your mother's brother.

I can only follow what the daft instructions say. I will have a good look at it this weekend and start as if re-installing. Brakes actually quietened down on the way home but then my gears went a little wonky. It's always one thing or another I guess when the bike is made of cheaper components.

Santa cruzing

Little refresh of the drive train, including a very shiny specialties TA chain ring as that's all the lbs had in stock. Need to polish the crank arms to match now.

meth_tical

With a little advise from others on BR, chain and rear cassette replaced. Brakes adjusted and some positioning tweeks. Bike feels like new.

kelsen

Spent 10 minutes this morning 'toeing-out' my brake pads :oops:

veronese68

spasypaddy wrote:

well i sent a politely worded but very disappointed email to Arundel this morning. Lets see what they say.

How did you get on? Poor review here for the very same reason.

bushu

Nearly finished the Trek build while watching t'giro de Italia
Indexed front & rear, after correcting housing length, setup controls finished off with some yeti grips I had my box, noticed the chain is too short bugger! Other than that shortening the rear brake cable and fitting front tyre its complete :-) hopefully can get it to the sisters without waiting for her to supply a tyre so I can get working on the ss track bike

May clean & reindex the xc bike, no planned riding today. Had bad guts all week and need to rest up for my first club social tomorrow morning. Still haven't wrapped my bars so going ghetto also managed to ride over some sweet & sour sachet which exp loaded all over the rim of front & rear of the road bike so plenty to get on with :roll:

Edit - forgot to mention fitting the peugeot with the ahead stem adapter and stem from the charge bike adopted, much better handling imho an I'm a very happy chappy now

andy9964

Successfully did my first ever dérailleur adjustment (wouldn't go into 6th, then jumped to 7th after another click)
With the help of a unusual "work stand"
Not recommended for any heavy duty work, it swings around quite a bit



Yes, I am aware that some things aren't as they should be, t'was only temporary