Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

greenamex2

Replaced my poorly shifting FSA crank with an Ultegra one.

The shift is just so much better than I remember the FSA one ever being.

Also dropped from 170mm crank arms to 165mm. Initial view after 13 miles is more comfortable but possibly slightly slower. I am expecting to take a little time to get used to them, it will be interesting to see how my speed changes. This was done because I can slight knee ache on this bike with 170mm and a lot of knee ache on my weekend/spare hybrid with 175mm...and my legs felt they were going to hit my chest despite the same relative seat position.

We shall see.

rower63

I finally retired my Schwalbe Durano Plus 23mm front tyres after 17,000+ miles, having first donned them in December 2014. They never had a puncture, but they'd become so full of pits and cuts, hundreds of them, that inspecting them for shards and badboys took ages. Replaced with same.

asprilla

Discs cleaned and pads changed.

milemuncher1

rower63 wrote:

I finally retired my Schwalbe Durano Plus 23mm front tyres after 17,000+ miles, having first donned them in December 2014. They never had a puncture, but they'd become so full of pits and cuts, hundreds of them, that inspecting them for shards and badboys took ages. Replaced with same.

I like D+ tyres.

wolfsbane2k

Creaking from the headset area on the roadie, decided to remove the steerer and clean it all up.
No change to the creak.
took the handlebar off the stem, cleaned all that, re-greased, re fitted.
Undid it all again and then re-torqued - half way through the torque wrench gave up the ghost with a "Ping".
Did it all "to feel", but creaking still there.

Someone mentioned getting assembly paste... but that's for carbon stuff only isn't it?

ryan_w-2

Wolfsbane2k wrote:

Someone mentioned getting assembly paste... but that's for carbon stuff only isn't it?

Nope, carbon (gripper) paste is different to assembly paste.

I use Shimanos assembly paste, works a treat.

milemuncher1

Ryan_W wrote:

Wolfsbane2k wrote:

Someone mentioned getting assembly paste... but that's for carbon stuff only isn't it?

Nope, carbon (gripper) paste is different to assembly paste.

I use Shimanos assembly paste, works a treat.

It's great stuff. Whenever I've replaced one component in the system only ( just stem, or just bars ) for example, this stuff has silenced the inevitable creak nicely. There's no way I'm replacing the bars, stem, and steerer, just because of a creaky new single bit.

UndercoverElephant

Been a fettling kind of day:

Helped a workmate replace the headset on his Croix de Fer, it was in a real state - bearings everywhere. Replaced with a lovely Hope one. That'll last!

Received a tension meter from eBay, its been on the slow boat from China. Really nice bit of kit, like an orange version of the DT Swiss one. Took some readings from the wheels I built for the Pinnacle. Not good - less than half the tension I wanted. Rebuilt them at the correct tension and they seem transformed on a test round the block. Mrs. Elephant called me spaghetti spokes.

pinno

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Mrs. Elephant called me spaghetti spokes.

At least she didn't call you spaghetti spoke.

Mad_Malx

Investigated rattley freehub on newish Fulcrum 7 wheel. Parts diagram showing 2 pairs of sealed bearing cartridges :
1 pair on hub - present and smooth.
Can only see inner bearing cartridge on the freehub. Scape out grease - clean on inside but brown on outer part. find a few loose bearings and remains of a metal cup. Seals apparently disintegrated. Order & fit cartridge and now lovely and smooth.

itboffin

Nice, what size are those and where did you order from?

Mad_Malx

I used 6901 2rs from Wiggle

Very useful article here
https://www.acatalepsia.org/98/fulcrum- ... placement/
Note 6903 for 2015+ hubs.

What really confused me was I couldn't figure out what had happened to the cartridge, until I spotted that the metal collar was stuck on the axel and the outer cup in the freehub.

My wheels were actually CEX 6.5 which were suppplied with my Focus, but are the same hub. Sat in garage for a year before I put them on my commuter. appear pretty robust except this problem.

Edit - used old threaded axel from non-qr wheel with nuts and washers as home made press, which worked a treat.

itboffin

Mad_Malx wrote:

I used 6901 2rs from Wiggle

Very useful article here
https://www.acatalepsia.org/98/fulcrum- ... placement/
Note 6903 for 2015+ hubs.

What really confused me was I couldn't figure out what had happened to the cartridge, until I spotted that the metal collar was stuck on the axel and the outer cup in the freehub.

My wheels were actually CEX 6.5 which were suppplied with my Focus, but are the same hub. Sat in garage for a year before I put them on my commuter. appear pretty robust except this problem.

Edit - used old threaded axel from non-qr wheel with nuts and washers as home made press, which worked a treat.

muchas gracias

keef66

Bike fettling? absolutely nothing apart from an occasional bit of light dusting. Barely time to ride the things.

House fettling has taken over my life. Had all the floors up to install insulation. They were obviously made of sterner stuff back in 1937 when it was built. Discovered 2 tons of rubble under there - the remains of the 1937 fireplaces the previous owners had thoughtfully dumped. That all came out and 70mm PIR sheets and a lot of expanding foam went in. Spent the next 3 weeks convincing my wife, if not myself, that the house wasn't going to burn like Grenfell Tower.
Then on to the fireplace where the log burner is going. Old gas fire came out and I bashed out the new bricks so I had the original builder's opening complete with a mahoosive, poured in-situ, not quite horizontal, reinforced concrete lintel. Log burner bloke came out to measure up and said the hole needed to be higher. So I got a cheap SDS drill from Screwfix and hired a prop just in case, Bertha the lintel and another course of bricks came out, and once I'd stopped the bleeding, a much smaller prestressed modern lintel went in, this one being perfectly level.
While I was doing that, my wife was steaming off the wallpaper. And, we soon learned, a lot of the plaster from the external wall. Looks like there'd been a problem in the past with penetrating damp (solid brick walls, facing southwest) Probably just needed brickwork pointing, but the same feckless lot who filled the floor void with crap had simply rendered the outside of the house and skimmed the dodgy internal plasterwork to hide the state of it all.
So I've been hacking off the worst of it and patching it so a professional can skim it properly when he comes to do the 2 ceilings that the aforementioned idiots "artexed" extremely badly.
I've also been attacking a reclaimed oak beam to use as a mantel. Seemed like a bargain but I hadn't realised quite how much ironmongery was still stuck in it and snapped off. Most of it I've had to punch below the surface and hide with filler cunningly made from pva mixed with the sawdust resulting from sanding it. Looking good now it's all sanded down, lightly stained and waxed.
Just got to decide what to use as hearth material, clean up the brickwork (or install brick slips), secure the beam and make good the plasterwork.

Then I'm off for a long ride...

pinno

Ha ha - that's ^ nothin'.

viewtopic.php?f=30005&t=13064868&hilit=PPP#p19877843

luv2ride

Oh the irony...after fiddling with the inline barrel adjusters on my Solace during this morning's ride, I finally got the front and rear mech to play nicely (why does Ultegra seem so much harder than SRAM to set up to run quietly?!!!)

Got home, leaned bike on pedal against low wall and went for a shower. Got back downstairs and bike had fallen over onto rear mech, bending the hanger :shock:

Lucky I got the mech hanger alignment gauge the other day. Sorted the hanger in around 30 mins, but seemed to take ages to sort the rear shifting again, Really struggled to get sufficient cable tension to get mech to shift to largest cog, without winding the rear cable adjuster out as far as it went, so I have a question:

When you start setting up the rear mech (Ultegra) and before tightening the cable bolt, what "position" should you have the front and rear barrel adjusters in? The bikes only 10 weeks old so cables and inner should be in good shape...
Cheers

pinno

Luv2ride wrote:

When you start setting up the rear mech (Ultegra) and before tightening the cable bolt, what "position" should you have the front and rear barrel adjusters in? The bikes only 10 weeks old so cables and inner should be in good shape...
Cheers

Give yourself the full leeway and put them 2 to 3 turns from fully inserted.

Try to get sufficient tension on the cable so that the lever pushes the mech from the smallest cog on your cassette up 1 with one click. If it goes to the second cog but its still sketchy (most likely), then don't worry; at least you know then that the cable tension is okay.
Next step is to click up to the middle of the cassette (approximate on 10 speeds) and then get it to run smoothly using the barrel adjusters. Don't rely on them to get the correct cable tension. 95% of the cable tension should be from clamping the cable in the first place.
Have a quick check that you haven't bent the jockey wheel cage.

itboffin

Nothing else for it, new bike

pinno

itboffin wrote:

Nothing else for it, new bike

Why? Did you bend it 'fatty'?

luv2ride

Pinno wrote:

Luv2ride wrote:

When you start setting up the rear mech (Ultegra) and before tightening the cable bolt, what "position" should you have the front and rear barrel adjusters in? The bikes only 10 weeks old so cables and inner should be in good shape...
Cheers

Give yourself the full leeway and put them 2 to 3 turns from fully inserted.

Try to get sufficient tension on the cable so that the lever pushes the mech from the smallest cog on your cassette up 1 with one click. If it goes to the second cog but its still sketchy (most likely), then don't worry; at least you know then that the cable tension is okay.
Next step is to click up to the middle of the cassette (approximate on 10 speeds) and then get it to run smoothly using the barrel adjusters. Don't rely on them to get the correct cable tension. 95% of the cable tension should be from clamping the cable in the first place.
Have a quick check that you haven't bent the jockey wheel cage.

You've confirmed pretty much the approach I was taking, but couldn't get the chain to move up from the smallest cog on tension at the clamp bolt alone, when shifting the lever. I had to wind out the barrel adjuster on the mech to get it to move. Its shifting again now across the block, but that barrel adjuster is wound out more than I think should be necessary, and the drivetrain still isn't silky smooth. Increasingly sounds like a cabling issue to me, given the lack of tension achievable without using the barrel adjusters? I was going to replace the bars anyway so might give me an opportunity to make sure all the ferules, etc are pushed in...
Maybe I should get a new bike like ITB says

timothyw

If you're struggling to get tension without using too much barrel adjuster then you might want to hold the derailleur under tension (so push it towards you wheel, across the cassette) while you clamp the cable.

This might also require a bit of trial and error (and you probably want to unscrew the barrel adjuster a couple of turns so that you have scope to slacken off the tension if you overdo it.)

It's hard to take all the slack out of the cable by hand while you clamp it. Pushing the derailleur is easier.

pinno

TimothyW wrote:

If you're struggling to get tension without using too much barrel adjuster then you might want to hold the derailleur under tension (so push it towards you wheel, across the cassette) while you clamp the cable.

This might also require a bit of trial and error (and you probably want to unscrew the barrel adjuster a couple of turns so that you have scope to slacken off the tension if you overdo it.)

It's hard to take all the slack out of the cable by hand while you clamp it. Pushing the derailleur is easier.

This is true. Though I have a pair of fully insulated pliers and I lever the cable against the body of the rear mech whilst clamping. The insulated bit on the long nose pliers prevents any marking on the mech.

luv2ride: Check you haven't got any fraying of the cable anywhere.

luv2ride

^Thanks all....manually bringing the mech under tension whilst cinching the cable bolt seems so obvious now you've spelled it out for me :oops: No fraying of the cable that i can see. Shifting really well at the minute, but only with front and rear adjusters wound out a fair bit. Will try again with the new suggested method later.

Will be riding the CR1 with Its deep rims today, and silent SRAM shifting. No doubt that'll spur me on to re-fettle the shifting on the Solace this evening!

pinno

You're welcome L2R. Please send me your billing address.

meanredspider

Fettled the garage - does that count?

mudcovered

Luv2ride wrote:

When you start setting up the rear mech (Ultegra) and before tightening the cable bolt, what "position" should you have the front and rear barrel adjusters in? The bikes only 10 weeks old so cables and inner should be in good shape...
Cheers

Not had a lot of success with inline adjusters (mine kept seizing). However I can advise on tuning setup.

Set the barrel adjuster on the rear mech so its all the way in. (Turn clockwise as much as possible to make it as short as possible. Same applies to an inline adjuster. Because of the nature of the system you are only ever going to use the adjusters to make the cable tigher (extending them). After this install the cable as tight as you can without the mech moving away from the limit point. After that you can then use the adjusters to take up the little bit of slack in the cable.

That should get you close then keep taking slack out of the cable until things shift smoothly all across the block. There are some adjustment guidelines on which gear to tune in in the instructions for the rear-mech which you can download from shimano.

pinno

You're a bit late to this party mudcovered, L2R is sorted.

Wheelspinner

meanredspider wrote:

Fettled the garage - does that count?

Provided it was to accommodate bikes or workspace to fettle same, then... yes.

keef66

Pinno wrote:

Ha ha - that's ^ nothin'.

viewtopic.php?f=30005&t=13064868&hilit=PPP#p19877843

I've been following your renovation thread quite avidly. Very impressive range of skills you have there! I'm getting the impression you've done that kind of thing before...

Having destroyed my 27yr old corded hammer drill I'm using my comparatively minor project as an excuse to update my tool collection. The cheapo Screwfix SDS drill and the Bosch professional cordless drill and impact driver set have been a revelation. And since I'm replacing loads of skirting and fitting some engineered wooden flooring I think I can justify a sliding bevel / mitre saw too

meanredspider

Wheelspinner wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

Fettled the garage - does that count?

Provided it was to accommodate bikes or workspace to fettle same, then... yes.

Replacing gutters to protect the inside of the garage, and therefore the several bikes, from damp. It could be argued (unsuccessfully) that I was fettling up to 4 bikes at once...