Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

pinno

J_MCD wrote:

Milemuncher1 wrote:

J_MCD wrote:

...some bollox...

...some other bollox*...

I think I might park that idea for a while as mechanical engineering isn't really my thing!

1. Can you ascertain the pull ratio of the bar shifters?
2. Can you then find a compatible rear mech?

*Indemnity: 'Bollox' is not implying 'rubbish', just stuff.

veronese68

Pinno wrote:

*Indemnity: 'Bollox' is not implying 'rubbish', just stuff.

It was bollox. Easiest to buy some flat bar road shifters, Shimano even publish compatibility charts to check what will work. Need to know which type of 105 it is as the charts use the number series. So 5700 105 2x10 speed could use R460 or R780 flat bar shifters. No need for any kind of lash up.

mudcovered

Veronese68 wrote:

It was bollox. Easiest to buy some flat bar road shifters, Shimano even publish compatibility charts to check what will work. Need to know which type of 105 it is as the charts use the number series. So 5700 105 2x10 speed could use R460 or R780 flat bar shifters. No need for any kind of lash up.

Nice link. Didn't know about that. Bookmarked.

Mike

joncomelately

Handlebars have been a bit knocky the last couple of weeks, so decided to replace the headset bearings. Went to take them out last night just to measure them, only to find the cage in bits. Hurray for next day delivery.

Also noticed a strand of the rear gear cable has snapped just before the clamp. Queue more fettling.

wolfsbane2k

Fed up trying to use the right tools (in theory) to remove the bottom bracket, I went along to my local community cycle group and tried theirs with longer handles, still couldn't get it to budge.
Ended up using larger and larger sets of Stillsons until it eventually budged.
New BB lined up and ready to install.

greg66_tri_v2.0

Irritating ticking noise: cured.

I get this occasionally. Starts as a single tick per pedal rev then progresses to tickticktickticktick each revolution. Tightening the rear QR provides temporary respite.

However, tightening the cassette lockring provides PERMANENT ELIMINATION OF THE TICK!

keef66

Took pity on Son's bike looking sad and unloved with a flat front tyre last night. Felt all smug having found a tiny puncture in the tube matched to an almost invisible shard of glass or possibly flint in the tyre. I removed the offending object, scoured the tyre for others and fitted another, previously repaired tube.

Flat as a pancake again this morning. Brought the wheel to work so I can give it a closer look in daylight...

kleinstroker

Took 5 days, 2 failed attempts & a special tool to successfully fit a starnut properly without it twisting. God they are infuriating

pinno

kleinstroker wrote:

Took 5 days, 2 failed attempts & a special tool to successfully fit a starnut properly without it twisting. God they are infuriating

T25 Torx was it by any chance? ...and you had previously attempted to use an Alen key or badly fitting screwdriver?

timothyw

Pinno, you have either misunderstood or your star nut fitting technique is rather different to mine...

It involves screwing a bolt into the star nut, yes, but you then have to hammer that bolt until the star nut achieves the desired depth.

Doing that and keeping in straight soon leads to much swearing and frustration. Expander bungs all the way for me I think...

UndercoverElephant

First time bleeding the hydraulic brakes on the Pinnacle. Have been too scared until now, but really I needed to give it a try since it's been to the LBS twice so far and it still wasn't quite right. Kept going spongey.

I *think* I managed to do a better job than they did, the rear hose has a bit of a lift from under the BB shell to the calliper which if you didn't get enough tilt to the bars was trapping some air. Hopefully that's the end of the trouble for a bit.

Oh, and washed the bike so it's my fault if it rains tomorrow.

PhilipPirrip

Well done you.

I've sprayed hydraulic fluid up the sitting room when re-pressurising the calipers. The brakes work fine but I've now to re-emulsion the walls.

UndercoverElephant

PhilipPirrip wrote:

Well done you.

I've sprayed hydraulic fluid up the sitting room when re-pressurising the calipers. The brakes work fine but I've now to re-emulsion the walls.

Did them in the garden and still managed to knock the fluid over twice :oops:

PhilipPirrip

UndercoverElephant wrote:

PhilipPirrip wrote:

Well done you.

I've sprayed hydraulic fluid up the sitting room when re-pressurising the calipers. The brakes work fine but I've now to re-emulsion the walls.

Did them in the garden and still managed to knock the fluid over twice :oops:

Oh if only we were married I'd have done mine outside too.

Single bloke = in front the telly. New paint. :roll:

daniel_b

Realised the crappy mechanical promax discs on the Kona Minute really did need to go in the bin.

Had some bargain Shimano 505 hydraulic brakes I bought from Merlin for £40 18 months ago, and some of those cheap as chips rotors someone on here (?) posted in the bargains thread a while back.

Rear was the easier of the two, actually have it running with no rub at all - unheard of!

Front was more of a faff, had to get the rotor bender out, and even then was unable to get it as a completely clean fit :-(
Something to do with how the calliper tightens up to the mount, and that's even with the bowl and dish type washers (Sorry do not know technical name) to alter the angle of fit - exactly the same issues I have on my alloy Synapse, but with SRAM callipers.
Will have a crack at it another time, but had enough of it this morning after 90 minutes of tinkering.

The only other fly in the ointment is that they levers are the European way around, and it's mostly my gf who will be using it - personally I prefer it that way around, so she will just need to get used to hitting both levers simultaneously.

Quite pleased to get it done, with not too much fuss and mistakes though - unlike me!

pinno

TimothyW wrote:

Pinno, you have either misunderstood or your star nut fitting technique is rather different to mine..

I see - the steerer star nut? From what Kleinstroker was saying, that didn't immediately register with the grey matter but when he's finished arguing the toss in Pro Race, he may come back and contradict us both.

I fitted a star nut once using a long bolt inserted into it, a piece of Aluminium tube cut to length that was slightly smaller in diameter than I would have liked, some washers and then tapped the top of the bolt.
It was central enough to fit the bolt and cap and I guess the process of doing that was sufficient to straighten it up. I quite agree, it's a PITA.

kleinstroker

TimothyW wrote:

Pinno, you have either misunderstood or your star nut fitting technique is rather different to mine...

It involves screwing a bolt into the star nut, yes, but you then have to hammer that bolt until the star nut achieves the desired depth.

Doing that and keeping in straight soon leads to much swearing and frustration. Expander bungs all the way for me I think...

Lots of swearing for sure, now steerer tube has two star nuts pushed further down, ended up buying the Ice-Toolz Star Nut Setter in the end, & it worked.

Sportiveman

Fitted a new 9 speed 11-30 cassette to replace my 12-27 cassette on my winter bike ready for my first century ride next Sunday to discover after lots of fiddling with the b screw that rounded off :? That my old ultegra mech SS won't give me enough clearance so today have now won a nice long cage 105 mech to fit during the week then hopefully shall be able to use the 30t sprocket without it making a clacking noise. :P

luv2ride

Daniel B wrote:

Realised the crappy mechanical promax discs on the Kona Minute really did need to go in the bin.

Had some bargain Shimano 505 hydraulic brakes I bought from Merlin for £40 18 months ago, and some of those cheap as chips rotors someone on here (?) posted in the bargains thread a while back.

Rear was the easier of the two, actually have it running with no rub at all - unheard of!

Front was more of a faff, had to get the rotor bender out, and even then was unable to get it as a completely clean fit :-(
Something to do with how the calliper tightens up to the mount, and that's even with the bowl and dish type washers (Sorry do not know technical name) to alter the angle of fit - exactly the same issues I have on my alloy Synapse, but with SRAM callipers.
Will have a crack at it another time, but had enough of it this morning after 90 minutes of tinkering.

The only other fly in the ointment is that they levers are the European way around, and it's mostly my gf who will be using it - personally I prefer it that way around, so she will just need to get used to hitting both levers simultaneously.

Quite pleased to get it done, with not too much fuss and mistakes though - unlike me!

Try some Avid cone washers....worked on my TRP Spyres:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/avid ... prod110395
Seem to have gone up in price - bought mine 6 months ago for £3.49 in the sale!

oldbazza

Now have the brake hose to the rear caliper running through the frame of the XLS as it should,didn't have to re-bleed even after fitting the new barb and olive.

Next are new wheels to build (Halo Vapours on Hope hubs)with X-One tyres(or some Clements) and Lauf forks.

itboffin

My CAAD12 build is going so slowly dan B would be proud, sourcing shimano R8070 groupset for less than £1.5k is providing difficult

Also the CAAD12 is a heavy bike, 5.3kg before groupset, sounds heavy although i havent a clue with metric weights so perhaps its not, mind you my fully built Cervelo with pedals, mounts and cages is only 6.5kg, this bloater gonna be 8-9 once its finished.

kleinstroker

I'd imagine you could go eTap for that price, would save a few grams too. Didn't realise the new groupset was so pricy.

greenamex2

Replaced the stock Tektro rim brake pads for Swissstop on the daughters road bike.

Also fitted thicker spacers to the older Tiagra levers.

So much better!

Hopefully she won't land on the bonnets of parked cars at the bottom of hills any more.

daniel_b

itboffin wrote:

My CAAD12 build is going so slowly dan B would be proud, sourcing shimano R8070 groupset for less than £1.5k is providing difficult

Also the CAAD12 is a heavy bike, 5.3kg before groupset, sounds heavy although i havent a clue with metric weights so perhaps its not, mind you my fully built Cervelo with pedals, mounts and cages is only 6.5kg, this bloater gonna be 8-9 once its finished.

Fine work Sir, good things come to those who take a long time to do them, as someone once said.

8-9KG sounds a bit :?
Groupset seems pricey too.

Luv2ride wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Realised the crappy mechanical promax discs on the Kona Minute really did need to go in the bin.

Had some bargain Shimano 505 hydraulic brakes I bought from Merlin for £40 18 months ago, and some of those cheap as chips rotors someone on here (?) posted in the bargains thread a while back.

Rear was the easier of the two, actually have it running with no rub at all - unheard of!

Front was more of a faff, had to get the rotor bender out, and even then was unable to get it as a completely clean fit :-(
Something to do with how the calliper tightens up to the mount, and that's even with the bowl and dish type washers (Sorry do not know technical name) to alter the angle of fit - exactly the same issues I have on my alloy Synapse, but with SRAM callipers.
Will have a crack at it another time, but had enough of it this morning after 90 minutes of tinkering.

The only other fly in the ointment is that they levers are the European way around, and it's mostly my gf who will be using it - personally I prefer it that way around, so she will just need to get used to hitting both levers simultaneously.

Quite pleased to get it done, with not too much fuss and mistakes though - unlike me!

Try some Avid cone washers....worked on my TRP Spyres:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/avid ... prod110395
Seem to have gone up in price - bought mine 6 months ago for £3.49 in the sale!

Cheers L2R - they aren't cheap are they!
Cone washers, that was the technical term I was after, and it came with one pair for each bolt if that makes sense, ie 4 pairs in total.

The front is actually not riding too bad, bit of a rub at a couple of points, but am assuming that after a bit of use, the pads will wear down in those areas, and we should be rub free within a week or two?

I've already ordered some replacement pads from CRC, as wanted to have some in stock, as now my gf has a hilly commute, they will get hammered over winter I expect.

ryan_w-2

Fitted a new 11/30T Ultegra cassette to the S5 last night.

They said it wouldn't work with DA9070, but I love proving people wrong

Hoping 36/30 will be enough to get me up Montserrat...

rick_chasey

Ryan_W wrote:

Fitted a new 11/30T Ultegra cassette to the S5 last night.

They said it wouldn't work with DA9070, but I love proving people wrong

Hoping 36/30 will be enough to get me up Montserrat...

You're not that slow.

ryan_w-2

I f**king hate hills....

Didn't think 36/25 would cut the mustard.

N0bodyOfTheGoat

This is more like fettling I would like to do without fear of breaking item...

How the heck do you change the lenses of those (£5?) Aldi multi-lens glasses that were sold this summer? I want to replace the dark mirrored ones with the yellows, but they are stubborn as heck to remove from the frames! :oops:

pinno

NitrousOxide wrote:

This is more like fettling I would like to do without fear of breaking item...

How the heck do you change the lenses of those (£5?) Aldi multi-lens glasses that were sold this summer? I want to replace the dark mirrored ones with the yellows, but they are stubborn as heck to remove from the frames! :oops:

If they are or like the Crivit one's, then you need to bend the frame a little. The rear pointy bit of the lens (nearest the arm) goes in before the short stubby bit nearest the nose piece. For removal, stubby bit out first. They'll take a bit of stick.
Or do what I did and buy 3 sets; one with dark/mirrored lenses, 1 with yellow and one with clear

N0bodyOfTheGoat

Pinno wrote:

NitrousOxide wrote:

This is more like fettling I would like to do without fear of breaking item...

How the heck do you change the lenses of those (£5?) Aldi multi-lens glasses that were sold this summer? I want to replace the dark mirrored ones with the yellows, but they are stubborn as heck to remove from the frames! :oops:

If they are or like the Crivit one's, then you need to bend the frame a little. The rear pointy bit of the lens (nearest the arm) goes in before the short stubby bit nearest the nose piece. For removal, stubby bit out first. They'll take a bit of stick.
Or do what I did and buy 3 sets; one with dark/mirrored lenses, 1 with yellow and one with clear

Had another try after reading this and I swear they will surely break if I use any more force!