Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

redvee

Put the old CX Spesh CX tyres on the disc wheels ready for the snow tomorrow, only have to swap the cassette in the morning if needed though I doubt it.

Manc33

Set up something I thought wouldn't work but does, a 52-38-24 chainset with 11-32t cassette. I didn't think it could be pushed that far but it changes fine onto the large ring. Using the FD-R443 front mech.

It now has a lowest gear of 20 gear inches (0.75 wheel turns) and a highest gear of 125 gear inches (4.75 wheel turns).

I don't think I can ask for any more gear range now.

If it explodes I promise to take pics. :roll:

UndercoverElephant

Fettling nightmares the other night, turn away from this post if you're of a sensitive disposition.

After my bike-fit told me I needed to raise my saddle, I went to change my position on the Equilibrium and no-dice, the seatpost was stuck. Carbon posts don't normally do that, and I'd installed it with the grippy-grease that came with it. I could turn it with a lot of force, but no way in hell was it coming out. Tried penetrating oil over a couple of days, but no difference at all.

I decided that there was nothing for it but to try and cut the top off and riffle it down with a hacksaw blade - always a last resort (or so I thought). Nope, got the top off, started trying to cut it, but no, it ain't happening. Then I struck on the idea of gouging it out with a curved chisel. This went better than you may expect and I got most of the post out. I then cleaned off the seat tube (the post had almost glued itself to the inside) and went to install the new (cheap, alloy) post. That's odd, it won't go in more than about an inch, what is going on?

Then I took another look at the seat tube, there's a subtle, but distinct narrowing of the tube. Thinking back, I don't think that I had moved the seatpost since I got rear-ended by a car last year. The frame alignment check came back OK when the LBS did it, but the impact must have bent the seat tube and crushed the post in the process - hence why it was so stuck.

Luckily, it being a steel frame, I was able to bend it back to the correct dimensions by 'installing' the cheapy seatpost (well greased) with a mallet, two knocks in and one back until I reached the correct height. Hopefully that'll work OK for the future

As an aside, anyone who thinks that carbon fiber is'nt tough stuff, should try and get a fused seatpost out. Chuff me, there was no breaking the bugger.

Kieran_Burns

If you needed the seat higher did you consider wider tyres?

UndercoverElephant

Kieran_Burns wrote:

If you needed the seat higher did you consider wider tyres?

Sadly, it's the height between the BB and saddle that needed upping otherwise I could have saved myself a lot of bother.

Kieran_Burns

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Kieran_Burns wrote:

If you needed the seat higher did you consider wider tyres?

Sadly, it's the height between the BB and saddle that needed upping otherwise I could have saved myself a lot of bother.

UndercoverElephant

Nope, I got it. In actual fact, at some point during the operation I would have considered it. I think if I switched to a fat-bike tyre at the back it may have worked out OK, but then I'd need a lot more setback.

gbsahne001

Removed the 8 speed groupset from the hybrid, as it was all worn out and replaced it with 9 speed; rear mech, chainset, shifters & chain. Unfortunately took the opportunity to clean the wheel and discovered that the rim wear indicator is peaking through.

At this point am sorely tempted to stick the 8 speed back on, sell it and build a new frame up that's disc only, especially as the family is going away for 2 weeks over Easter.

oldbazza

Fitted the new FSA headset to the Trek successfully using my home/work-made press so pleased with that;not so with the chain which I think is fubard.This conversion/re-build is costing more than I was hoping.

Kieran_Burns

Screamed, shouted at, swore and belted with a bloody yommer all to no avail. The cassette on the Tricross simply will not come loose

Then the farce with the middle ring on the Felt did not make the afternoon fettlefest go any better.

keyser__soze

Decided to give the good bike some attention after it'd been sat in the corner for months. Found the drive-side pedal insert is loose on my K-Force Light crankset Emailed FSA seeing if they would replace it as they replaced the non-driveside arm for exactly the same issue a year or so ago.

Manc33

Finally got my 52/38/24 chainset shifting perfectly at the front, no chain drop off the granny, or large.

Chainline is now @ 46.5mm (meant to be 45mm) but it works better than when it was setup at 44.0mm.

Maybe you can get away with pushing chainrings out slightly but not in slightly? Or if you can't attain 45mm, get the best BB size thats just over, not under? This is what I found, its more forgiving with it 1.5mm out, compared to only 1mm in.

Only took three bottom brackets. :oops:

This bike is turning into a ruddy masterpiece.

Just gotta swap the saddle and there's nothing else I could possibly do to it, except "upgrade" to 10-Speed, which I don't really care about.

MisterMuncher

Fitted a second set of road tubeless tyres, I'm officially a convert.

Much easier the second time round. I used 25mm tape (Schwalbe) and trimmed the edges dead flush with a scalpel. The bead popped in first time, with naught but the might of my Lidl track pump.

One piece of advice. Only soap up the second bead of the tyre, not both, or you'll spend half your time pushing the first bead back off again.

keyser__soze

Keyser__Soze wrote:

Decided to give the good bike some attention after it'd been sat in the corner for months. Found the drive-side pedal insert is loose on my K-Force Light crankset Emailed FSA seeing if they would replace it as they replaced the non-driveside arm for exactly the same issue a year or so ago.

FSA won't replace, usual "two-year, non-transferrable warranty, proof of purchase needed" BS. Given this is the second time it's happened to me and the huge number of incidents of this problem on the internet I won't be buying FSA products again :x

UndercoverElephant

Manc33 wrote:

Finally got my 52/38/24 chainset shifting perfectly at the front, no chain drop off the granny, or large.

Chainline is now @ 46.5mm (meant to be 45mm) but it works better than when it was setup at 44.0mm.

Maybe you can get away with pushing chainrings out slightly but not in slightly? Or if you can't attain 45mm, get the best BB size thats just over, not under? This is what I found, its more forgiving with it 1.5mm out, compared to only 1mm in.

Only took three bottom brackets. :oops:

This bike is turning into a ruddy masterpiece.

Just gotta swap the saddle and there's nothing else I could possibly do to it, except "upgrade" to 10-Speed, which I don't really care about.

Am I being dim? Is it not just a case of changing the limit screws on the FD?

tgotb

CX bike #1 - Stripped and regreased jockey wheel and bottom bracket bearings. Replaced chain.
CX bike #2 - Repaired cracked fork. Refitted fork, realigned front brake caliper and bled hydraulics. Way better now! Replaced chain.
Commuting bike - Replaced both shifter cables and torn hood
Pub bike - Fitted mudguards (finally!)
Daughter's bike - regreased headset
Replaced broken buckle on #1 left CX shoe and missing stud on #2 left CX shoe
Replaced string loops on bike rack with proper hooks
Replaced trigger/nozzle on pressure washer
Bought ski gloves for daughter following "hypofrostbite" incident

Still need to order new brake pads for daughter's bike and replace torn hood on road bike.

secretsam

Quick adjustment of rear gears on commuting bike. Didn't check chain length.

Chain too short, seized transmission whilst riding, dragged rear mech into spokes. See thread "A Stranded Idiot" for opportunities to take the p155.

Off to LBS on Friday for massive repair-fest.

il_principe

Fitted a Fabric ALM saddle to the Canyon:





Such a clean/clever design. Had a quick spin and so far so good. Time will tell.

MisterMuncher

Very interested in this, IP. Let us know how you get on, I've been hankering for something a little flatter and lighter than my scoop, abs the ALM looks just the ticket.

Manc33

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Am I being dim? Is it not just a case of changing the limit screws on the FD?

That and it needing a "flat bar specific" shifter which I didn't believe at first, but now do. :oops:

The R440 shifter is still a bit cheap and I ideally want a R770 left shifter on it. CRC sells the left shifter only of the R440, but not the R770. Those have just come down in price everywhere to £65 a pair, I would pay about £30 posted for a left one in used condition if anyone has one.

The potential for fettling is in theory endless. :oops:

After that I want to get a MTB 10sp rear mech and M980 shifter for the back but thats a way off because of the cost of it all.

menthel

Just ground off a broken abus dlock. Later I may fit my new k-edge combo mount. Nice.

redvee

menthel wrote:

Later I may fit my new k-edge combo mount. Nice.

Fitted my RWD customised mount tonight, the difference between the standard and my mount is the drop on the light mount cause my Magicshine sits slightly above the bar it mounts on.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5v1bh3chnmowvm3/IMG_20150121_014408657.jpg?dl=0

The only criticism of the light mount is that it is too short for my other lights, Knog & Lezyne as they have a footprint of 25mm so the bar needs to be 45mm long to cover other lights too but I've already emailed Martyn at RWD with this suggestion.

bendertherobot

Taken the snow stud tyres back off. Not going to be needed again for, at least, a few weeks.

Kieran_Burns

bendertherobot wrote:

Taken the snow stud tyres back off. Not going to be needed again for, at least, a few weeks.

muttermuttermutter


Put the snow studs on last night because of the all the Met Office reports.

Does anyone else 'round here forget that they've just fitted tyres with pointy metal bits pointing out when they use their hand on the tyre to slow it down?

No?

Just me then

p.s. ouch

ugo.santalucia

Fitted a pair of Record 11 shifters I got on here at 75 quid because one of them is scratched... to shift a Shimano 9 speed cassette with a Shimano XT 772 rear derailleur with no indexing screw... flawless setup... :shock:

The Shimano 9 pull ratio is 2.5 mm and Campagnolo 11 is 2.6 mm, so it all works brilliantly over the all cassette... very pleased with myself.. just got a master degree at the University of Shimergo!

veronese68

Did you do that 7 times KB, or are there problems since the site came back online?

meanredspider

Kieran_Burns wrote:

bendertherobot wrote:

Taken the snow stud tyres back off. Not going to be needed again for, at least, a few weeks.

muttermuttermutter


Put the snow studs on last night because of the all the Met Office reports.

Does anyone else 'round here forget that they've just fitted tyres with pointy metal bits pointing out when they use their hand on the tyre to slow it down?

No?

Just me then

p.s. ouch

Haven't you done this before?

Kieran_Burns

Reported the mass duplicates!

and yes :oops:

Manc33

Put the full carbon China SMP saddle back on again because the Italian TRK is miles too wide and padded, rubs inner thighs. A saddle I could never get used to. I was expecting way less padding and it to be a thinner. :roll:

The full carbon one - once setup so its spirit level-level and your sitting in that little "hammock" of it - is incredibly comfy. One of those carbon ones with a few mm of foam would be ideal if it was kept to that nice thin 130mm width, but I can't afford one lol. That Forma one or whatever it is.

Most saddles downfall for me is that they don't cut enough back at the sides, most saddles rub my legs on the inside. Those 129mm SMP ones though are silly comfy. The only saddle to beat it would be a Brooks but I can't use it because of the short rails. The answer to that is a Brooks Swallow/Swift but hell no I ain't got that kinda dough. Even those are 153mm wide. :x

Wheelspinner

Manc33 wrote:

Put the full carbon China SMP saddle back on again because the Italian TRK is miles too wide and padded, rubs inner thighs. A saddle I could never get used to. I was expecting way less padding and it to be a thinner. :roll:

The full carbon one - once setup so its spirit level-level and your sitting in that little "hammock" of it - is incredibly comfy. One of those carbon ones with a few mm of foam would be ideal if it was kept to that nice thin 130mm width, but I can't afford one lol. That Forma one or whatever it is.

Most saddles downfall for me is that they don't cut enough back at the sides, most saddles rub my legs on the inside. Those 129mm SMP ones though are silly comfy. The only saddle to beat it would be a Brooks but I can't use it because of the short rails. The answer to that is a Brooks Swallow/Swift but hell no I ain't got that kinda dough. Even those are 153mm wide. :x

Try one of these if you like narrow ones.

http://www.sellesanmarco.it/en/products-lines/urban-performance/zoncolan-up/zoncolan-racing-urban-performance-microfeelkevlar