Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

Wheelspinner

Finished fitting fork to new MTB last night, steerer tube trimmed, all done. Only trouble now is the damned thing doesn't fit my work stand as it has a 15mm TA and apparently the Park work stand adapters aren't sold in this country. So my next fettling job will be to bodge up one to suit.

rhodrich

The last couple of weeks since I built up my new commuting bike have been a continuous fettle fest. It takes a while to get a bike set up just right (especially when you're just working with parts from the parts cave.....)

Last night, I fitted a new SPA TD-2 Chainset, to replace the Middleburn RS7 one on there. No longer do I have to cope with inappropriate gearing, a chainline so bad that the front mech couldn't get far enough out not to rub (as I had the wrong length BB), and 175 cranks. 48/38/28 rings, a 45mm chainline, and 170mm cranks are much better. This also meant I could put the saddle up by 5mm (as the cranks are shorter), which helps with my saddle bag clearance.

I also took the opportunity to see if I could fix the wheel I destroyed the other day in a chain/spoke/derailleur incident. Replaced the 8 severed spokes, and 1 damaged one, and managed to get it back into lateral trueness. Sadly though, there's a big flat spot on the rim, probably caused by me continuing to ride on it in a severely weakened state. I'll try and pull it out in due course. Even if I do though, the wheel bearings are rumbling away merrily (the cones weren't looking too happy last time I looked, and that was 1500 miles ago.....). Might just have to accept that the wheel is dead.

itboffin

No one can accuse you of not getting the most out of your kit, I hate throwing away parts even old chains.

rhodrich

itboffin wrote:

No one can accuse you of not getting the most out of your kit, I hate throwing away parts even old chains.

Thanks! I'll take that as a compliment!

Today, I attempted to get the flat spot out of the rim using the Sheldon method of tying a ratchet strap round it and a concrete fencepost, and pulling down sharply a few times: http://sheldonbrown.com/on-road-wheel-repairs.html
I figured I had nothing to lose, and you know what - it worked! Took a little bit more truing after that, but now the rim is in a perfectly acceptable state of vertical and lateral trueness.

Fitted an aluminium dork disk from my spares box behind the freewheel to ensure that the chain won't jump in there again (I know - unacceptable!), and the wheel is back on the bike (following some further derailleur adjustments for good measure). OK, so the wheel bearings are rumbling, but they're not going to fail imminently.

Still on the lookout for a suitable replacement wheel, but quite happy to ride on this in the meantime, and keep it as an emergency wheel for the future.

asprilla

Took the Campagnolo calipers off my SS and replaced them with 2011 Sram Force ones off my old CR1. Bike now stops. It's wonderful.

Either Campag calipers don't like Sram S Series levers or Campag can't make brakes.

asprilla

Fettled the Soloist tonight.

I fear the mech hanger is bent; adjusting the limit scew on the rear mech means either the cage is in the spokes or I can't get in the big sprocket.

Hmmm. Guess it was when I hit the deck the other day.

rolf_f

Asprilla wrote:

Either Campag calipers don't like Sram S Series levers or Campag can't make brakes.

Neither is most likely......

veronese68

Asprilla wrote:

Fettled the Soloist tonight.

I fear the mech hanger is bent; adjusting the limit scew on the rear mech means either the cage is in the spokes or I can't get in the big sprocket.

Hmmm. Guess it was when I hit the deck the other day.

Want to borrow one of these? Might be worth buying one though.

MonkeyMonster

Apologies, massive apologies to Ugo, but I only finally swapped his wheels into the mtb last night - no test drive either BUT they feel and sound silent and lovely - and that is without molying the hubs internally with "The Black Goo". That I can tighten up both brakes and ne'er a wobble in the rim is just lovely. Cassette was easy enough but gears are running slightly grinding feeling so suspect I need to slightly alter the tension in the cable but only slightly. Put all the garmin shizzle on too to handle the 800 when I decide to use it. I *should* have also cleaned the hoy as its covered in muddy crap from the stix and now squeaking worse than boffins back. Poor thing. New saddle on the mtb as well (same as hoy so the cheeks won't know the difference...)

Just need to resolve mudguards that don''t look shit... but stop me being covered in it. Full hardtail btw.

fat_tail

started out as just a change of inner and outer brake cables and new chain. In my eagerness I also change the front derailleur cable, replaced the brake pads, and then took the crankset off and decided it would be a good idea to change the bottom bracket. oh and I put some bar tape on.

so new chain, new brake pads, new brake cables, new front gear cable, new bottom bracket, new bar tape.

asprilla

Rolf F wrote:

Asprilla wrote:

Either Campag calipers don't like Sram S Series levers or Campag can't make brakes.

Neither is most likely......

Based on my extensive experience those are the only two possible options.

itboffin

i really need to replace two sets of headset bearings i just can't be ar$ed

its a sad day when you actually cant be bothered to maintain your own bikes

leeefm

Unsuccessful attempt at fitting mudguards... I hate mudguards, they never fit for me without excessive "modifications".

MisterMuncher

Slipped my spare pair of tyres onto my new wheels to try them out. I can report that fitting open corsas to Pacenti SL23 rims is less fun than being kicked.

Superstars wheels are excellent for the money, arrived well packed and true. Doubt they've made me faster on any meaningful way, but losing the guts of 2lb off my wheels certainly feels nice. No issues with wheel stiffness either. Ride isn't as comfortable as my other wheels, but it want supposed to be. Considering stripping the paint off them and giving them a polish, though.

Wheelspinner

Workstand bodge issue sorted. Thule make adaptors for their roofracks for just this problem, and since I have their racks on my car too, the ludicrous cost is somewhat justifiable as I can use it there as well.

Stem and bars fitted, shifter on, and gear cable routed through after considerable head scratching about how the BB cable guide is intended to work. Now realise that the simple maintenance task of replacing a gear cable on this frame in future will require a complete strip down. :x

Routed a dummy line through for the rear brake hose as well, as the "real" one has to be fed through from the other end which would be *much* harder...

qube

Infamous random click sorted....

After many fettles with this one, turns out I had a (slightly) loose non-drive side crank.

Although, I had checked it previously. Not well enough it seems.

My life is good again.

rolf_f

Asprilla wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

Asprilla wrote:

Either Campag calipers don't like Sram S Series levers or Campag can't make brakes.

Neither is most likely......

Based on my extensive experience those are the only two possible options.

Your extensive experience is probably not extensive enough.

1) Campag can make brakes. Amongst the best. You don't need anything better. You probably won't notice anything better. Nobody else is having problems. You aren't Manc33 are you?!
2) It seems unlikely that Campag calipers don't like the SRAM levers. You pull a lever, it moves a cable, the cable moves a bit of metal with a pivot on it, the other end of the bit of metal pushes a pad onto a rim. There's nothing much too it. If you can move the bit of metal far enough, then the caliper has done its job. What is between the rim and the caliper maybe another issue. Of course, if SRAM have a wildly different pull ratio to Campag, it may then be difficult to stop the bike with that combo. But then of course, the cause of the problem would be blindingly obvious and you wouldn't be debating one cause or another.

You weren't running the calipers with too large a gap to the rims were you? Ie to take into account the lack of quick release with the SRAM lever, Campag caliper combination?

asprilla

Edit; posted prior to your addition about pull ratios.

Noticed a difference immediately, hence my post.

It's not as simple as you suggest and a little bit of reading suggests that the different pull ratios of the levers can have an impact when it comes to calliper performance; hence Sram callipers with Sram levers perform better than Campag callipers with Sram levers.

The campag callipers performed 'ok' (not good) and got very sketchy in the wet. Gap between pad and track was minimal, I have set a pair of brake callipers before.

itboffin

I'm yet to encounter a problem mixing shimano, campag or sram

rolf_f

Asprilla wrote:

Edit; posted prior to your addition about pull ratios.

Noticed a difference immediately, hence my post.

It's not as simple as you suggest and a little bit of reading suggests that the different pull ratios of the levers can have an impact when it comes to calliper performance; hence Sram callipers with Sram levers perform better than Campag callipers with Sram levers.

The campag callipers performed 'ok' (not good) and got very sketchy in the wet. Gap between pad and track was minimal, I have set a pair of brake callipers before.

I'd say people make too big a fuss about this. It's just a lever. You pull it and a certain amount of cable moves. Yes, ratios vary and it might take you a few minutes to get used to a change but it's all near enough linear and I doubt that the ratios vary that much. One brake might feel a bit grabbier and another a bit too reachy for a given lever but after five minutes you get used to it. I'm pretty sure that in the past, calipers and brakes had all sorts of leverages and nobody worried about it (or failed to stop because of it!) but now because everything is high tech, we have to be fed lots of stuff about pull ratios when ultimately, all it is about is applying enough force to the brake pad so it stops the rim spinning. There's nothing complicated about caliper brakes.

I guess at least with hydraulic discs there is a little more justification for all the flim flam - probably the main reason why manufacturers are keen on them!

I'm always happy to be proved wrong - if there is something written that gives a genuine, scientifically explained reason why it makes much difference then I'd love to read it. I suspect the main reason people say that SRAM calipers don't work with Campag is simply because you can't get the wheel off without deflating the tyre!

Surely if performance was noticeably unexpectedly worse in the wet then that points to pads more than anything else?

asprilla

Only if Swissstop BXP for Campag are different to the Sram / Shimano ones.

I also said that the braking was less than good in the dry.

rolf_f

Asprilla wrote:

Only if Swissstop BXP for Campag are different to the Sram / Shimano ones.

I also said that the braking was less than good in the dry.

I know you did - but the fact that you commented on it implied that the difference was greater than you'd expect. No rim brake is going to be as good in the wet as the dry.

I doubt the pads are different in composition - what about other variables? Condition of pads, amount of material, cleanliness of wheels? Thing is, there just enough difference between the calipers to make much of a difference so there must be something else.

What is the length of the caliper levers on the SRAM brakes?

The Rookie

Just fitted new (to it) wheels to the commuter, replacing the preloved M475 hubbed pair I had on their, not bad doing 4000 miles when they only cost £20, new wheels came off the MTB after I fitted the all new wheels to it, useful saving of about 250g and better bearings (the Shimano cones were showing some signs of distress) took the opportunity to fit a Shimano cassette to make the hills a little easier (12-27 replaced 11-26).

itboffin

replaced the completely rusted top headset bearing on my winter commuter and also noticed that temporary fix i put in place last year really should have been temporary, using a bottom bearing on top will let in water and if left long enough will rust :roll:

feels weird now, when i turn the handlebars there's no grinding notches

I also took the rear brake off and cleaned it with white spirit then greased adjusted and refitted, perfect for a few more months.

redvee

itboffin wrote:

feels weird now, when i turn the handlebars there's no grinding notches

The arthritis in your shoulders will soon return at your age

davis

Put cross-top interruptor levers on the boy's new bike.
Two things:

Silicone lubricant is great for cables, and the "quick clamps" used for general building are really handy for setting brake cables - no third hand required, just get the brakes to *almost* closed and tighten the cable clamp:

asprilla

Changed the mech hanger on the Soloist and reindexed. Put the turbo tyre on my powertap and then rearranged the garage to set up the turbo dungeon.

oldbazza

Finished the Helium this week-end but a combination of other jobs and shitty weather meant I couldn't get out on it.

One of the other jobs is turning into a mess as the Trek is now back on it's old wheels and Shimano mech and shifters as the old Mavics won't work(anyone want a pair of MA2/Miche wheels that need a service ) and the shifter for the sram is foobard,other fly in the ointment is that the front wheel's hubs seem to have a problem as the wheel wobbles all over the place :? ;the perils of using stuff that's been lying around for years I suppose :roll: .

Initialised

Went to change a tube and noticed that the rubber looks like it was delaminating (Conti Sport Contacts 26x1.6). I couldn't find suitable tubes for my 28mm Duranos so I had to fit some 2.1 Conti Explorers (light duty off road). The 2.1 started rubbing the front mud guard so that needed tweaking and once that was sorted the brake arms (XTR Vs) started hitting one side of the guard so they needed balancing out.

Just checked the weather, of to get the Snow Studs...

asprilla

Pedals, saddle, bars and wheels on the new bike. Looks to be the right size, so that's lucky. Proper set-up will have to wait until Thursday when the Mrs is out and I can work in the warmth of the kitchen.