Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

dyrlac

Now sporting a 120mm stem ... :?

Kieran_Burns

Fitted the Selle saddle to the Madone and it looks purdy. Also swapped the bar tape, made a bit of a mess of it but it'll be okay for now. When I'm slightly more patient and have cleaner hands :oops: while fitting white bar tape, I'll have another go.

Also fully cleaned and lubed the Madone - looking very, very shiny now and it's all ready for a commute sprint as soon as the weather allows (we're expecting Thunderstorms this afternoon)

Also cleaned and lubed the Felt so it's ready to get dirty again. Oh, and fitted some black and white bottle cages to the Black and White Felt - all co-ordinated now. Whoever heard of tarting the commuting workhorse?

drlodge

Fitted my 50mm carbon tubular wheels to the Rourke, change the brake pads to Swisstop yellow.
Fitted and adjusted cleats to my new white Diadora Jet Racer shoes
Slammed the stem - removed the last 5mm stem spacer (put it on top, obviously...)

Went for a 50m Club ride yesterday with the above and thoroughly enjoyed it :-)

Now I need to cut that steerer if I can work out how the CK griplock thingy comes off :roll:

Initialised

Waxed my chain.

MonkeyMonster

Initialised wrote:

Waxed my chain.

I read that as chin...

Initialised

MonkeyMonster wrote:

Initialised wrote:

Waxed my chain.

I read that as chin...

Was tempted to use it on my legs...

MonkeyMonster

Initialised wrote:

MonkeyMonster wrote:

Initialised wrote:

Waxed my chain.

I read that as chin...

Was tempted to use it on my legs...

Paraffin and then burn them off smooth? Why test yourself - suggest to boffin to find out first how it goes

drlodge

Last nights fettling was cutting my steerer tube (expensive Ritchey WCS forks, custom paint job, being very careful not to screw it up!). Took off 20mm so the stem is now slammed with a 5mm spacer on top. Very pleased with the result.

Tonights job will be new white bar tape, the old stuff has been on since November 2012 when I got the bike, and its looking dirty. Will carefully unwrap thw old tape to see how they've routed it around the levers (figure 8 method) and try to copy it.

Kieran_Burns

drlodge wrote:

Last nights fettling was cutting my steerer tube (expensive Ritchey WCS forks, custom paint job, being very careful not to screw it up!). Took off 20mm so the stem is now slammed with a 5mm spacer on top. Very pleased with the result.

Tonights job will be new white bar tape, the old stuff has been on since November 2012 when I got the bike, and its looking dirty. Will carefully unwrap thw old tape to see how they've routed it around the levers (figure 8 method) and try to copy it.

You will fail.

Just use the extra bit of tape that is provided to loop over the lever clips and wrap as normal

drlodge

Kieran_Burns wrote:

You will fail.

Just use the extra bit of tape that is provided to loop over the lever clips and wrap as normal

I like a challenge! Plus, I don't think my tape comes with an "extra bit", you're supposed to cut a length off the reel to make the "extra bit" which seems a bit silly if I can figure-8 it. I bought the exact same tape that Rourke's fitted so it should be possible. I will take some photos as I undo it to remind me how to redo it

sswiss

Failing to remove a Bottom Bracket :roll:

drlodge

sswiss wrote:

Failing to remove a Bottom Bracket :roll:

You're only supposed to blow the bloody cranks off. I hate BBs, the need for special tools and everythings subject to dirt and crap, so threads gunk up making disassembly difficult.

What kind of BB is it?

redvee

drlodge wrote:

Last nights fettling was cutting my steerer tube (expensive Ritchey WCS forks, custom paint job, being very careful not to screw it up!). Took off 20mm so the stem is now slammed with a 5mm spacer on top. Very pleased with the result.

Tonights job will be new white bar tape.

No figure of 8 needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlpHIERGddU

Dropped my stem by 10mm tonight to see if that eases the tingly fingers when my hands are on the centre of the bars.

drlodge

Did the bar tape, and replicated the figure 8 that was on there, I prefer it to the BR method you posted, just seems to be more "seamless" somehow.

Of course, the figure 8 method requires a longer length of bar tape, I worked that out when I ran out of tape! Therefore had to re-wrap with a greater tension to stretch it a little more. I also put in a little length of tap around the lever clamp just like in the video - a short length over the metal clamp that's cut in line with the plastic lever body. Its not really needed for aesthetic purpsoes, but does make up the height difference between the metal clamp and lever body so there's no lip.

Quite pleased with the result, but its really difficult to get a nice consistent amount of overlap all the way round so it looks perfect.

MisterMuncher

That's probably why I've come to love Cinelli tape. If you've got the winged C sitting central to the top edge of the bar, you've probably hit the sweet spot for tension on the tape. After that it's a matter of keeping a 2mm overlap on the outside edge, and you're laughing.

redvee

Turned the rear wheel round and rode fixed today. Think I'll change it back to SS for tomorrow's commute.

asprilla

Fitted the missing cassette spacer to the Power Tap.

Unfortunately I'd got the indexing so close to being ok that it's now all over the shop.

rolf_f

drlodge wrote:

Did the bar tape, and replicated the figure 8 that was on there, I prefer it to the BR method you posted, just seems to be more "seamless" somehow.

Of course, the figure 8 method requires a longer length of bar tape, I worked that out when I ran out of tape! Therefore had to re-wrap with a greater tension to stretch it a little more. I also put in a little length of tap around the lever clamp just like in the video - a short length over the metal clamp that's cut in line with the plastic lever body. Its not really needed for aesthetic purpsoes, but does make up the height difference between the metal clamp and lever body so there's no lip.

Quite pleased with the result, but its really difficult to get a nice consistent amount of overlap all the way round so it looks perfect.

I've just wrapped the new bars on my Look. Fig 8 and no extra bits of tape needed. The Evans stuff is quite thick and there's no sign of any lips - I think if I'd used a short section under the clamp it would have looked bulky. The Evans tape was plenty long enough. Could have probably done two fig 8s if I'd wanted to!

itboffin

What's the best way to clean suncream fingerprints from sunglasses?

johngti

itboffin wrote:

What's the best way to clean suncream fingerprints from sunglasses?

Blowtorch. Make sure you take them off first - rookie mistake.

rolf_f

johngti wrote:

itboffin wrote:

What's the best way to clean suncream fingerprints from sunglasses?

Blowtorch. Make sure you take them off first - rookie mistake.

That or sandpaper. Coarse grit.

Kieran_Burns

itboffin wrote:

What's the best way to clean suncream fingerprints from sunglasses?

n+2?

itboffin

How do you get sunscreen off a mobile phone?

Phew it's hot today

veronese68

You have to boil it off, pot of boiling water and simmer for 40 minutes.

drlodge

Rolf F wrote:

I've just wrapped the new bars on my Look. Fig 8 and no extra bits of tape needed. The Evans stuff is quite thick and there's no sign of any lips - I think if I'd used a short section under the clamp it would have looked bulky. The Evans tape was plenty long enough. Could have probably done two fig 8s if I'd wanted to!

I put a very short bit of tape *over* the clamp bit, and butted it up to the plastic shifter body. Its not needed though.

For the figure-8 method, you're supposed to go round twice ;-)

rolf_f

drlodge wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

I've just wrapped the new bars on my Look. Fig 8 and no extra bits of tape needed. The Evans stuff is quite thick and there's no sign of any lips - I think if I'd used a short section under the clamp it would have looked bulky. The Evans tape was plenty long enough. Could have probably done two fig 8s if I'd wanted to!

I put a very short bit of tape *over* the clamp bit, and butted it up to the plastic shifter body. Its not needed though.

For the figure-8 method, you're supposed to go round twice ;-)

Ohhh, I did you know! I think Evans are just generous though, to be fair, they don't supply specific strips for the clamp bit being as how the tape is all plain anyway.

Kieran_Burns

Rolf F wrote:

drlodge wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

I've just wrapped the new bars on my Look. Fig 8 and no extra bits of tape needed. The Evans stuff is quite thick and there's no sign of any lips - I think if I'd used a short section under the clamp it would have looked bulky. The Evans tape was plenty long enough. Could have probably done two fig 8s if I'd wanted to!

I put a very short bit of tape *over* the clamp bit, and butted it up to the plastic shifter body. Its not needed though.

For the figure-8 method, you're supposed to go round twice ;-)

Ohhh, I did you know! I think Evans are just generous though, to be fair, they don't supply specific strips for the clamp bit being as how the tape is all plain anyway.

Aren't you supposed to wrap it the other way?

drlodge

Kieran_Burns wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

Aren't you supposed to wrap it the other way?

Well spotted that man, yes I think you are. Also I can see some exposed shifter body and the angle of the bar tape as it overlaps the body should be about 90 degrees with each other. But that may be due to in the incorrect direction of wrapping 8)

rolf_f

Kieran_Burns wrote:

Aren't you supposed to wrap it the other way?

Don't think it makes any difference - can't see how it would. My Ribble is wrapped the other way and the tape has needed little attention in over 20,000 miles. The Look has vastly less miles but Epic cycles wrapped it this way and I saw no reason not to copy it.

rower63

This should prob also go into the Rants section.

I set about replacing the cables on the Storck. The FD cable is routed under the BB along a standard plastic guide, and into a hole in the frame just next to the guide, reappearing through another hole just above the BB area. The old cable came out easily enough, but when trying to re-insert a new cable from underneath, it gets about 2cm in and stops. I tried inserting a long thin hex key into the hole, and yup it’s absolutely blocked. Inserting a hex key from above is blocked at about 1cm in. I don’t know what links those two holes inside the frame, and I am at a loss to work out what to do.
As a temporary solution, I’ve had to guide the cable externally all the way underneath the frame, in direct contact with the paint, and it just about works but comes very close to the tyre, and when slack may even just touch it.
Grrrrr!
Anyone here had similar with Storck road bike?