Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

itboffin

Is it wrong to fettle a hire bike?

I need to fettle, I might have an illness

veronese68

itboffin wrote:

Is it wrong to fettle a hire bike?

I need to fettle, I might have an illness

Some of us always knew you were sick.

drlodge

itboffin wrote:

Is it wrong to fettle a hire bike?

I need to fettle, I might have an illness

Its fine, I find the shops that hire bikes never have the bike properly setup. I'm sure the gears will need adjusting or the chain cleaning and properly lubricating with your particular choice of lube.

6wheels

rower63 wrote:

This should prob also go into the Rants section.

I set about replacing the cables on the Storck. The FD cable is routed under the BB along a standard plastic guide, and into a hole in the frame just next to the guide, reappearing through another hole just above the BB area. The old cable came out easily enough, but when trying to re-insert a new cable from underneath, it gets about 2cm in and stops. I tried inserting a long thin hex key into the hole, and yup it’s absolutely blocked. Inserting a hex key from above is blocked at about 1cm in. I don’t know what links those two holes inside the frame, and I am at a loss to work out what to do.
As a temporary solution, I’ve had to guide the cable externally all the way underneath the frame, in direct contact with the paint, and it just about works but comes very close to the tyre, and when slack may even just touch it.
Grrrrr!
Anyone here had similar with Storck road bike?

Sounds as though you have an inlet guide and an outlet guide with a gap inbetween and you're hitting the face of the other side. Try using some wire about .5mm diameter to get something through the other side, then tape the ends together and pull through.

That's what I did with my internally cabled bike , but it's not a Storck.

Initialised

itboffin wrote:

Is it wrong to fettle a hire bike?

I need to fettle, I might have an illness

Yes, I flipped and lowered a stem on one my brother hired one for riding over the Pennines. The default sit-up-and-beg position was no good for 60 mile, hilly days.

itboffin

Flipped and lowered stem straightening it in the process, reindexed the rear mech, adjusted the brakes to actually contact the whole rim and reduced the gap.

Lowered saddle to try and help my funked up left knee.


Oddly enough it now rides a lot better and I'm not shitting my pants descending which is nice

surrey_commuter

I have lost the rubber bits on the bottom of one Shimano cleat - is it possible to buy replacements? not sure how to describe them but they are the bits that sit proud and allow you to walk without slipping.

Thanks in advance

MonkeyMonster

Surrey Commuter wrote:

I have lost the rubber bits on the bottom of one Shimano cleat - is it possible to buy replacements? not sure how to describe them but they are the bits that sit proud and allow you to walk without slipping.

Thanks in advance

On spdl's no, need to get new cleats.

surrey_commuter

looks like I need to track stand

rower63

6wheels wrote:

rower63 wrote:

... internal cabling bike issues ...

Sounds as though you have an inlet guide and an outlet guide with a gap inbetween and you're hitting the face of the other side. Try using some wire about .5mm diameter to get something through the other side, then tape the ends together and pull through.

That's what I did with my internally cabled bike , but it's not a Storck.

Thanks - I spent an hour trying all those sorts of things, ending up pushing stiff thin rods in from both ends to try to feel my way about, there is a solid obstruction in there.
In hindsight, I should've done what you suggest before pulling out the old cable, i.e. attaching old cable to a piece of string or wire, pulling it out ensuring the "northwest passage" remains open, then re-attaching new cable to same wire and pulling it through from other side again.
Lesson learned.
Emailed Storck to see their solution

slowbike

I replaced the cables on one of my bikes (can't remember which one now) and the FD cable comes underneath through a plastic guide then through a plastic guide tube behind the BB. It was also jammed solid - I ended up using a small drill in my fingers to pull all the dirt out.

In your situation I'd see how far I can poke a wire through one way and the same but from the otherway - if that adds up to the distance between the entrance/exit then they're probably not jammed, you just have an alignment issue. If they add up to less then it's jammed and you could try the drill route.

If it is an alignment issue then removing the plastic guide should help you - you may be able to poke the other one out too, feed the cable through then slot the tubes back into place.

MonkeyMonster

Surrey Commuter wrote:

looks like I need to track stand

I've just replaced my left cleat as that is my unclip foot. The other one is still fairly immaculate although after tuesday's rain it was entertainingly squeaky this morning but settled down.

rower63

Slowbike wrote:

In your situation I'd see how far I can poke a wire through one way and the same but from the otherway - if that adds up to the distance between the entrance/exit then they're probably not jammed, you just have an alignment issue. If they add up to less then it's jammed and you could try the drill route.

Thanks Slowbike. I've done that too, with the long handles of a pair of thin hex keys from top and bottom simultaneously. And by eye, they're sorta roughly meeting at the same point (ish) inside, and they are aligned too, but each stopping at a very solid stop. To get more accuracy, I considered using my Vernier Calipers, but I ran out of time. For that I'll have to remove a semi-axle crank (Campag Chorus), which I did briefly anyway, plus the BB part of the frame is so oversized I'm not sure the Vernier jaws will reach. I removed the crank to see if I could expose the inside of the frame, but all I could see was the alu BB shell cylinder which I guess is bonded to the frame.
The holes into which the cable goes are just that, tiny holes in carbon shell, no sign of guides or internal tubes. There may well be an internal guide tube, but no way to tell without a bit of destructive interference.
I also considered drilling but I want Storck to come back and tell me what's inside first.

asprilla

Just stripped down the CR1 with a view to selling it. Jeesh, I forget how light that frame is.

Couldn't get the crankset off so I'll pop into my LBS on Monday for that.

Decided that I'm going to put the Force brakes on my Peugeot Chorus instead of the Athena Skeleton ones I have on there. I know I should have Campag but frankly those brakes are shit.

veronese68

I've known my chain is worn for ages but hadn't changed it. Finally changed it about 6pm tonight, slipping on the cassette. Balls! New cassette tomorrow.

rolf_f

Asprilla wrote:

Decided that I'm going to put the Force brakes on my Peugeot Chorus instead of the Athena Skeleton ones I have on there. I know I should have Campag but frankly those brakes are shoot.

Something is wrong there because Campag Skeleton brakes are excellent. What do you actually mean by 'shoot'? Poor stopping power, mechanical issues, don't like the colour scheme?!

menthel

Rubino pros fitted to 00 to replace conti ultrasports that have started to regularly puncture. They have performed better than expected being made of dairylea!

Initialised

Broke the front brake on my MTB (AVID Juicy) trying to fix it, the alignment was well off and the rotor was rubbing the caliper.
It can't be bled anymore, snapped the end off my tool, now it's stuck in the bleed nut.

Oh well it gave me the excuse to buy a Tektro Auriga Pro front brake so now I have two bikes with the same fluid, bleeding procedure and pads so it'll keep future maintenance simple.

asprilla

Rolf F wrote:

Asprilla wrote:

Decided that I'm going to put the Force brakes on my Peugeot Chorus instead of the Athena Skeleton ones I have on there. I know I should have Campag but frankly those brakes are shoot.

Something is wrong there because Campag Skeleton brakes are excellent. What do you actually mean by 'shoot'? Poor stopping power, mechanical issues, don't like the colour scheme?!

Poor stopping power. I've changed the pads for Swissstop Blues and not seen much improvement.

If they are supposed to be ok then it's probably because I'm using Sram levers with them.

Anyway, I've not resolved that tonight because I've been busy.....

Went out on the singlespeed today for the first time in a few weeks. It really is the most comfortable bike I have and I appear to be able to generate the most power / speed on it (given the limiting factors of it being single speed and not having a power meter on it).

So I've spent this evening with a spirit level, set square and tape measure going over every square inch of the Peugeot and the Cervelo.

Initial measurements are:

Pug Reach 400mm
Pug Stack 560mm

Soloist Reach 394mm
Soloist Stack 560mm

So pretty much the same, and yet they feel very different.

First I looked at the stem. The bars are 20mm lower on the Soloist so I raise them 15mm. Quite a big jump. The stem on the Soloist is also 10mm shorter but I'm going to see how I get on.

Quick test ride but still not the same.

So I check saddle position. Distance from bb centre to saddle top is the same (765mm) but the saddle tip on the Soloist is 60mm back from the bb centre compared to 40 mm on the Pug. Obviously the seat post angle on the Pug is substantially greater than Soloist.

The saddle on the Soloist is already as far forward as it can go so there is only one thing for it; flip the seat post........

itboffin

My fastest bike on the flat is my Dolan track SS in fact I hit 36.7mph tonight and if anyone dares say i was drafting a van over London bridge I will kick you in your mangina :roll:

rolf_f

Asprilla wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

Asprilla wrote:

Decided that I'm going to put the Force brakes on my Peugeot Chorus instead of the Athena Skeleton ones I have on there. I know I should have Campag but frankly those brakes are shoot.

Something is wrong there because Campag Skeleton brakes are excellent. What do you actually mean by 'shoot'? Poor stopping power, mechanical issues, don't like the colour scheme?!

Poor stopping power. I've changed the pads for Swissstop Blues and not seen much improvement.

If they are supposed to be ok then it's probably because I'm using Sram levers with them.

More than OK. And I'm not convinced the levers are the problem (unless you are leaving too big a gap between the pads and rim on account of the brakes not having the quick release built in to them). What are the Blues for? I use the Swissstop blacks which work well.

asprilla

Rolf F wrote:

Asprilla wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

Asprilla wrote:

Decided that I'm going to put the Force brakes on my Peugeot Chorus instead of the Athena Skeleton ones I have on there. I know I should have Campag but frankly those brakes are shoot.

Something is wrong there because Campag Skeleton brakes are excellent. What do you actually mean by 'shoot'? Poor stopping power, mechanical issues, don't like the colour scheme?!

Poor stopping power. I've changed the pads for Swissstop Blues and not seen much improvement.

If they are supposed to be ok then it's probably because I'm using Sram levers with them.

More than OK. And I'm not convinced the levers are the problem (unless you are leaving too big a gap between the pads and rim on account of the brakes not having the quick release built in to them). What are the Blues for? I use the Swissstop blacks which work well.

Blues are the replacements for Greens. Pad separation from the rim is minimal (I deflate the tyres when I remove the wheels (what is with the lack of QR anyway?).

Other bikes have Force, Apex, Ultegra 6800, R650 Long Drop and Hylex Discs. The Skeletons are the worst performing of the lot.

rolf_f

Asprilla wrote:

Blues are the replacements for Greens. Pad separation from the rim is minimal (I deflate the tyres when I remove the wheels (what is with the lack of QR anyway?).

The quick release is on the levers. It's a rather neater solution than having them on the calipers as the brakes work just as well irrespective of whether or not you've remembered to close the quick release - you just have to reach a little further to the levers which, of course, is a good reminder that you forgot the quick release!

Read a few reviews of these brakes (Veloce, SR, Chorus etc - they are all similar in performance). Whatever problems you are having aren't the fault of the brake design!

Still, for the quick release issue alone, personally I wouldn't use Campag brakes on a SRAM, Shimano setup. You can always flog the Athenas to me if you want!

EKE_38BPM

I've had a slow p*ncture for about a week. At what point should I address the problem head on rather than just the symptom by pumping a little more air in every morning?

rubertoe

Before it burts, in the middle Biblical downpour, that Noah would hve built an Ark for and you have no shelter from.

BTW. the Kaff is being saved....

asprilla

Rolf F wrote:

Asprilla wrote:

Blues are the replacements for Greens. Pad separation from the rim is minimal (I deflate the tyres when I remove the wheels (what is with the lack of QR anyway?).

The quick release is on the levers. It's a rather neater solution than having them on the calipers as the brakes work just as well irrespective of whether or not you've remembered to close the quick release - you just have to reach a little further to the levers which, of course, is a good reminder that you forgot the quick release!

Read a few reviews of these brakes (Veloce, SR, Chorus etc - they are all similar in performance). Whatever problems you are having aren't the fault of the brake design!

Still, for the quick release issue alone, personally I wouldn't use Campag brakes on a SRAM, Shimano setup. You can always flog the Athenas to me if you want!

The Athenas will be going in eBay as soon as I get the time to swap them over.

The best rim brakes I have are my 6800s; everything else pales in comparison.

edhornby

Asprilla wrote:

Went out on the singlespeed today for the first time in a few weeks. It really is the most comfortable bike I have and I appear to be able to generate the most power / speed on it (given the limiting factors of it being single speed and not having a power meter on it).

So I've spent this evening with a spirit level, set square and tape measure going over every square inch of the Peugeot and the Cervelo.

Initial measurements are:

Pug Reach 400mm
Pug Stack 560mm

Soloist Reach 394mm
Soloist Stack 560mm

So pretty much the same, and yet they feel very different.

First I looked at the stem. The bars are 20mm lower on the Soloist so I raise them 15mm. Quite a big jump. The stem on the Soloist is also 10mm shorter but I'm going to see how I get on.

Quick test ride but still not the same.

So I check saddle position. Distance from bb centre to saddle top is the same (765mm) but the saddle tip on the Soloist is 60mm back from the bb centre compared to 40 mm on the Pug. Obviously the seat post angle on the Pug is substantially greater than Soloist.

The saddle on the Soloist is already as far forward as it can go so there is only one thing for it; flip the seat post........

have you factored for the BB height difference ? maybe try the floor to bars, floor to saddle heights as well ??

rolf_f

Asprilla wrote:

The best rim brakes I have are my 6800s; everything else pales in comparison.

They are just bits of hopefully reasonably inflexible metal with pivots. As far as braking performance goes, the calipers themselves shouldn't matter much as long as they aren't bendy (and Campag Skeletons aren't bendy). All else being equal, it's hard to find a physical explanation for any real difference in performance from one caliper to another.

asprilla

edhornby wrote:

Asprilla wrote:

Went out on the singlespeed today for the first time in a few weeks. It really is the most comfortable bike I have and I appear to be able to generate the most power / speed on it (given the limiting factors of it being single speed and not having a power meter on it).

So I've spent this evening with a spirit level, set square and tape measure going over every square inch of the Peugeot and the Cervelo.

Initial measurements are:

Pug Reach 400mm
Pug Stack 560mm

Soloist Reach 394mm
Soloist Stack 560mm

So pretty much the same, and yet they feel very different.

First I looked at the stem. The bars are 20mm lower on the Soloist so I raise them 15mm. Quite a big jump. The stem on the Soloist is also 10mm shorter but I'm going to see how I get on.

Quick test ride but still not the same.

So I check saddle position. Distance from bb centre to saddle top is the same (765mm) but the saddle tip on the Soloist is 60mm back from the bb centre compared to 40 mm on the Pug. Obviously the seat post angle on the Pug is substantially greater than Soloist.

The saddle on the Soloist is already as far forward as it can go so there is only one thing for it; flip the seat post........

have you factored for the BB height difference ? maybe try the floor to bars, floor to saddle heights as well ??

The BB is the fixed reference point for all measurements so the difference in BB heights (if there is one) doesn't have any impact.

Rode in in it this morning. Arms and shoulders were in a much better position. Saddle wasn't quite right but I think that's because it needs to be down at the front a fraction.

I think a 120mm stem is needed as well.

For reference; I'm an odd shape. Scoliosis means I'm 5'9" with a 32.5" inside leg.

Here is the SS as I have it;

rower63

EKE_38BPM wrote:

I've had a slow p*ncture for about a week. At what point should I address the problem head on rather than just the symptom by pumping a little more air in every morning?

I've had same thing for ages too but couldn't find puncture or flaw anywhere. Turns out it was extra-long valve stem with an extension-break in the middle which was slightly loose. Tightened it up and all good again.