Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

Sharkyssurfers

hopefully next week be back on Selina and ready to lay some power*


*unless i made a balls up on the chain and it snaps on me

slowbike

redvee wrote:

Slowbike wrote:

wtf is a a steel frame liner?!

On Specialised Tricross Single and Langster Alu frames there are small metal plates on the dropout to stop the wheelnuts/locknuts chewing up the frame, something like this.
Mine have two holes, not three.

Ah - thanks ... explains it nicely - my Tricross isn't single speed - so doesn't have these ... thought I was missing out on something important for a bit!

unfortunately I no longer work for the metalworks co I did (and they've since gone bust) so can't get these sorts of things made up ....
however, if the holes are just in the wrong place then you may be able to drill new holes ... making up new plates would be quite a bit of work though.
Probably worth asking a specialized dealer to contact specialized as they must have the right part somewhere ...


Just had another look at the pic and your description of the issue - the bolts won't grip = stripped thread - strikes me that the back plate is threaded? I guess no chance of putting a nut on the back as it'll stick out in the wrong place - so how about swap the plates about - would there be room then? Otherwise it depends how much it needs to be tightened - if it's just to hold it in place then some 2-part metal glue would give you enough to grip the bolt.

itboffin

goonz wrote:

itboffin wrote:

Its not the whole valve just the tiny screw on the end

If you dont already, try releasing all the pressure with the ABS button first. Also if the hand pumps are like my floor pump the screw on part has a separate part which you can hold whilst screwing on the valve.

Or simply try screwing the removable valve on tighter onto the inner tube first...

what you're a effectively saying is i need a new bike :roll:

Agent57

Does putting bar tape on the clip-on aero bars count?

Initialised

Tightened up the headset.

itboffin

fitted pannier rack to the trek using those fiddly tubus brackets for bikes with no mount points.

so hopefully i'll now have a slightly faster lighter commuter

dyrlac

Dropped the last headset spacer on the caadx, now fully slammed (but for that giant conical thing that I tell myself is structural). Pipecutter comes out next week once positioning confirmed.

sloppyschleckonds

Just adjusted my front mech and replaced the cable ferrule.

It was a SRAM Red YAW front mech with gore cable. The cable ferrule was unbranded.

luv2ride

New KMC 10-93 chain on my CR1 SL. Silent running of the SRAM Force gruppo restored...

Wheelspinner

Swapped 120mm Syncros stem out for a 110mm Easton one. Changed MTB tyres to slicks again.

arthur_scrimshaw

Replaced outer chainring, chain and cassette, rear wheel bearing playing up again, had new cones and bearings a few months ago and seem to have water ingress into the DS bearing? Twice I've had to strip it down as the grease is emulsified? Seals are not working? Bike is a Boardman CX 2012 team. Hacking me off as I'm planning to use it for a Jogle begining of June

Initialised

New brake cables, better levers, seat and long seatpost (so I can ride it without swapping in my carbon seatpost) on my son's MTB. Oh, and I fixed the bell.

smokey_bacon

Fitted a new KMC chain. Smooth as silk now.

Initialised

Swapped my road bike's tyres (Spesh Espoirs) for Vredstein Duo Comps. In the process the pad material from one of the front brake pads fell out, couldn't find my spare pads and it seems like the pad's backing had fused to the caliper and the caliper appears to have seized and braking force had ripped the friction material from the pad which explains why it was playing up on Saturday. These are BB5s and I was using Baradine Sintered pads, maybe a bad combination so I guess I can't put off fitting the Parabox any longer now that both the front and rear are knackered.

I ended up riding the bike I was talking about above and I think the XTR-Vs on it are better than BB5s except when it is raining torrentially or cold enough for ice to form on your rims.

veronese68

XTR V's with the parallel push linkage are probably the best rim brakes around. I keep thinking I should buy a used set for my old Marin. I quite fancy keeping it looking rubbish and old but uprating it. What forks would be the tricky bit.

itboffin

repaired AGAIN two draws from my daughters chest drawers and AGAIN pointed out that stuffing each draw until there's no room left doesnt work.

this time g-clamps and wood glue could barely rectify this mess, but luckily i have a well stocked man cave for all eventualities.

I've also bought an ass-saver but now looking at it i cant see how its going to be robust enough for more than 1-2 rides

Initialised

Veronese68 wrote:

XTR V's with the parallel push linkage are probably the best rim brakes around. I keep thinking I should buy a used set for my old Marin. I quite fancy keeping it looking rubbish and old but uprating it. What forks would be the tricky bit.

Yeah, the bike I've got the XTR-Vs on looks crap but I think it rides better than my HooDoo until I hit the rough stuff and it starts bottoming out on tiny hits, 80mm my 'arris. Fork upgrade has been on my mind for a while. At least riding it got me out on trails and I found some local trails and pump track I knew existed but hadn't bothered finding.

mrfpb

New Genesis CdF now has SKS mudguards, new pedals and 28mm Spesh Nimbus tyres. I ordered the guards withthe bike but EBC couldn't get them on with the 35 mm tires. I had the Nimbus tires in the garage. One week of toe straps was enough and I got some Shimano A530 touring pedals, one side flat one side SPD (still good for getting to work appts in nice shoes)

Just waiting for my pannier rack to arrive, then commuting will be even more fun. Also considering saddle options.

MonkeyMonster

Took my ever loosening headset in for final fix or I start crying in the bike shop. New forks and a new spacer are the result. Seems (and I await the flames) that pre-tensioner + cap are now semi-expected to counter the peak shocks you might get and maintain the stem tightness... The previous spacers didn't allow enough space for the bolt to be actually kept under tension from cap to expander.

ic.

Fitted a 6800 groupset last night. Reckon it only took me 2.5 hours. Test ride tonight! Looking forward to it

Initialised

Replaced the rear brake pads and bled my MTB's Tektro Auriga Comp, pads had plenty left, it was the bleeding that fixed it. A really excellent post over in the MTB section got it feeling stiff as my morning glory and almost as satisfying to squeeze!

While I had the hydraulic bits out I finally got around to fitting my Parabox V2, It was a lot easier than I thought it would be until I found the reason my front brake lever had been creaking. KB Cycles sorted me out with a spare part, the bit that holds the end of the brake cable on.

So they are functional but... the bar tape on one side needs re-doing and the brake hoses are too long, so I need to learn how to shorten them.

Here's how it looks now:

MisterMuncher

fitted in-line cable adjuster to front mech cable on the CAAD. Thought I could do without. Thought wrong.

Sharkyssurfers

Initialised wrote:

Replaced the rear brake pads and bled my MTB's Tektro Auriga Comp, pads had plenty left, it was the bleeding that fixed it. A really excellent post over in the MTB section got it feeling stiff as my morning glory and almost as satisfying to squeeze!

While I had the hydraulic bits out I finally got around to fitting my Parabox V2, It was a lot easier than I thought it would be until I found the reason my front brake lever had been creaking. KB Cycles sorted me out with a spare part, the bit that holds the end of the brake cable on.

So they are functional but... the bar tape on one side needs re-doing and the brake hoses are too long, so I need to learn how to shorten them.

Here's how it looks now:

Snap , I have that bike as my winter commute

Initialised

Sharkyssurfers wrote:

Initialised wrote:

Replaced the rear brake pads and bled my MTB's Tektro Auriga Comp, pads had plenty left, it was the bleeding that fixed it. A really excellent post over in the MTB section got it feeling stiff as my morning glory and almost as satisfying to squeeze!

While I had the hydraulic bits out I finally got around to fitting my Parabox V2, It was a lot easier than I thought it would be until I found the reason my front brake lever had been creaking. KB Cycles sorted me out with a spare part, the bit that holds the end of the brake cable on.

So they are functional but... the bar tape on one side needs re-doing and the brake hoses are too long, so I need to learn how to shorten them.

Here's how it looks now:

Snap , I have that bike as my winter commute

You southerners have it easy! My winter commuter's a VooDoo HooDoo with Snow Tyres!
Now at least they use the same brake pads and bleeding kit!

Loving the feel of the brakes now they're bedded in, so much control between a slight scrub and braking on the limit, even though the roads were wet today I felt in total control on the descents.

With the new derailer (105), tyres and brakes it feels like a new bike well worth the time and effort to upgrade.
Still want a longer stem as I've had to move it up to make room for the Parabox. Why couldn't TRP have built it into a stem?

meanredspider

Initialised wrote:

Why couldn't TRP have built it into a stem?

Which size, style, angle of stem?

Initialised

meanredspider wrote:

Initialised wrote:

Why couldn't TRP have built it into a stem?

Which size, style, angle of stem?

An adjustable stem with reach from the minimum required to fit the converter, maybe 90mm to 150mm.

meanredspider

Initialised wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

Initialised wrote:

Why couldn't TRP have built it into a stem?

Which size, style, angle of stem?

An adjustable stem with reach from the minimum required to fit the converter, maybe 90mm to 150mm.

:?

Wheelspinner

Lots of minor fettle works done. Changed bottle cage, fitted a K Edge Garmin bracket, lovely but a bit pricey. Tuned rear mech on MTB, cleaned and lubed chain, tightened derailleur hanger screws which fixed a creak, removed crank and tightened BB on SS which fixed another creak.

Major fettling fail though on old steel clunker which is permanently fixed to Turbo. Thought I'd take the cranks off to polish them, and service the BB. Remove dust cap. Remove crank bolt. Install threaded crank puller. Apply spanner to press against axle and watch as the tool pulls neatly out of the crank arm having sheared off all the thread with it. :evil: :evil:

Re-fit crank bolt and decide unpolished alloy suits the look better anyway.

davis

Stripped and cleaned the commuter. It needs: BB, brake pads, cables and bar tape.

Flushed out the Alfine hub and replaced the oil with ordinary car ATF. Christ it was a state, and sod Shimano oil prices!

Koncordski

Wrestled off the seized chainring bolts on the brompton and fitted experimental 58T front chainring for more power awesome.

Surprised to find it cleared the frame when folded (by not a lot) and only bit of 'adjustment' needed was to the front fork retaining clip which is conveniently made from soft plastic. Will try it out tomorrow but expecting enhanced roadie scalping abilities along CS3. 8)