Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

itboffin

Already done that, it's spotless in fact I've changed calipers three times and brake lever, cables and bars.

itboffin

hmmm seems its most likely the outer cable sticking, balls that means unwrapping the bar tape :evil:

rjsterry

rower63 wrote:

MonkeyMonster wrote:

rower63 wrote:

I agree, I'm a big fan of that site, it's generally my first port of call, and I try to avoid writing anything that has already been properly covered elsewhere. The focus of my article will be MASSIVE LEVELS OF BIKE NERDINGS, yes even more than Sheldon managed

Hmmm

guilty as charged m'lud

If you need further, err, specimens, I can supply a couple more very worn chains as well as a couple of chain rings and cassettes. Goodness knows why I have hung on to them; pretty sure it is genetic as my grandfather's garage was well stocked with old paint tins full of rusty screws as well as the odd Zulu spear :shock:

redvee

Started turning the Kaffenback to SS Tuesday. So far have stripped the front & rear mechs & cassette. Still running an R700 chainset and single 50t chainring with new BB. Still got to remove the STI levers and bartape and fit new brake levers.

asprilla

Thread locked the bb bolts and chain tensioner adjustment bolts on the hack hybrid. Things were getting wobbly.

Initialised

Cleaned the bike, waxed the chain, changed my tyres.

rower63

rjsterry wrote:

rower63 wrote:

MonkeyMonster wrote:

rower63 wrote:

I agree, I'm a big fan of that site, it's generally my first port of call, and I try to avoid writing anything that has already been properly covered elsewhere. The focus of my article will be MASSIVE LEVELS OF BIKE NERDINGS, yes even more than Sheldon managed

Hmmm

guilty as charged m'lud

If you need further, err, specimens, I can supply a couple more very worn chains as well as a couple of chain rings and cassettes. Goodness knows why I have hung on to them; pretty sure it is genetic as my grandfather's garage was well stocked with old paint tins full of rusty screws as well as the odd Zulu spear :shock:

just noticed this - thanks, I might take you up on your offer. I picked up a chain from veronese68 a few days ago, which will be useful, but one or two more would be good.

veronese68

rower63 wrote:

just noticed this - thanks, I might take you up on your offer. I picked up a chain from veronese68 a few days ago, which will be useful, but one or two more would be good.

Looking forward to reading about it. Sorry I was in a bit of a rush the other day. My wife had just given my Dad his birthday present when you knocked, so I told him not to unwrap it until I was back. I'll be more sociable next time.
Regarding chain wear, I wonder if it makes a difference how you ride as to how the chain wears. My son puts his bike in top gear and leaves it there, then stands up and mashes away from a standstill with a cadence of about 3 rpm. He's putting more force through the chain, but the chain is doing fewer revolutions per mile. I'm sure it puts more stress through the crankset. I changed the bottom bracket as the bike developed a creak, rode it round the block and it was fine. He rode it to school once and the creak was back. :?

roger_merriman

Pretty it is not, but as per the FG/SS thread I can't cope with drops anymore, and certainly not the bmx brakes...

So has a flat bar and newer far better brake levers plus one of those adjustable stems, got every thing set up today, and took it for a spin in Richmond Park, and a coffee after, lovely and fast after the MTB's though they brake and handle our less than perfect tarmac far better!

meanredspider

Fitted my new (2nd gen) warranty replacement HyRd brake calliper.

rower63

Veronese68 wrote:

...Sorry I was in a bit of a rush the other day. My wife had just given my Dad his birthday present when you knocked, so I told him not to unwrap it until I was back. I'll be more sociable next time.
Regarding chain wear, I wonder if it makes a difference how you ride as to how the chain wears. My son puts his bike in top gear and leaves it there, then stands up and mashes away from a standstill with a cadence of about 3 rpm. He's putting more force through the chain, but the chain is doing fewer revolutions per mile. I'm sure it puts more stress through the crankset. I changed the bottom bracket as the bike developed a creak, rode it round the block and it was fine. He rode it to school once and the creak was back. :?

No problem re sociability, you did warn me that was going to be the case 8)

Your son sounds like a typical rower-with-a-bike: apparently LBSs in the area can tell who they are, it's always the small sprocket that's worn out and the others pristine!

sketchley

Wiped down both bikes, new GP 4 Seasons on Enigma follow yesterday puncture, clean through the tyre. Was looking a little worn mind but not much. New brake pads for the Genesis.

gbsahne001

Just went to check the brakes and noticed that the bolt holding the rear mudguard and rack in place was loose. Upon further investigation discovered the thread has disappeared.... reattached using bolt + nyloc only to discover this turns the 9 speed bike into an 8 speed, as the nut clashes with the chain (must remember this).

Trying to find an M5 button screw to replace the arrangement and hopefully get No 9 back.

desweller

gbsahne wrote:

Just went to check the brakes and noticed that the bolt holding the rear mudguard and rack in place was loose. Upon further investigation discovered the thread has disappeared.... reattached using bolt + nyloc only to discover this turns the 9 speed bike into an 8 speed, as the nut clashes with the chain (must remember this).

Trying to find an M5 button screw to replace the arrangement and hopefully get No 9 back.

If there's enough material around the eyelet you might be able to tap it out to M6.

Kieran_Burns

DesWeller wrote:

gbsahne wrote:

Just went to check the brakes and noticed that the bolt holding the rear mudguard and rack in place was loose. Upon further investigation discovered the thread has disappeared.... reattached using bolt + nyloc only to discover this turns the 9 speed bike into an 8 speed, as the nut clashes with the chain (must remember this).

Trying to find an M5 button screw to replace the arrangement and hopefully get No 9 back.

If there's enough material around the eyelet you might be able to tap it out to M6.

You'll need a washer or two though as the M6 is a little longer.

msmancunia

Changed my brake pads for the first time (thank you Youtube). I think that's the first time I've fettled and not actually broken my bike.

Then to spoil my zen I had an argument with a neighbour about unauthorised use of my wheely bins and trespassing in my garden.

Yours,

Ms Meldrew.

desweller

Kieran_Burns wrote:

DesWeller wrote:

gbsahne wrote:

Just went to check the brakes and noticed that the bolt holding the rear mudguard and rack in place was loose. Upon further investigation discovered the thread has disappeared.... reattached using bolt + nyloc only to discover this turns the 9 speed bike into an 8 speed, as the nut clashes with the chain (must remember this).

Trying to find an M5 button screw to replace the arrangement and hopefully get No 9 back.

If there's enough material around the eyelet you might be able to tap it out to M6.

You'll need a washer or two though as the M6 is a little longer.

Depends what length M6 screws he gets...

gbsahne001

already thought of that and don't really want to go that route, as you're reducing the amount of threads within the hole. If it was too much for an M5 then a reduced number of threads is probably going to go the same way; button head bolt or thin nyloc might be the best way forwards

rolf_f

gbsahne wrote:

already thought of that and don't really want to go that route, as you're reducing the amount of threads within the hole. If it was too much for an M5 then a reduced number of threads is probably going to go the same way; button head bolt or thin nyloc might be the best way forwards

Or just rivet the bugger on!

redvee

gbsahne wrote:

Just went to check the brakes and noticed that the bolt holding the rear mudguard and rack in place was loose. Upon further investigation discovered the thread has disappeared.... reattached using bolt + nyloc only to discover this turns the 9 speed bike into an 8 speed, as the nut clashes with the chain (must remember this).

Trying to find an M5 button screw to replace the arrangement and hopefully get No 9 back.

Put the bolt in from the inside of the frame so the head is on the inside and the nut is on the outside. Had the same issue in the past on various bikes and reversing the bolt sorted it out.

gbsahne001

Rolf F wrote:

Or just rivet the bugger on!

too permanent

desweller

gbsahne wrote:

already thought of that and don't really want to go that route, as you're reducing the amount of threads within the hole. If it was too much for an M5 then a reduced number of threads is probably going to go the same way; button head bolt or thin nyloc might be the best way forwards

Although the pitch for M6 is longer than that for M5, I tend to think that you'll get more than that back with the additional thread depth. IME M6 screws are a lot more robust.

The problem with button head screws is they require a smaller hex key, so they're also easier to round off (not that the torque will be that high). Maybe a bolt would be a better choice? Assuming you have some miniature spanners...

gbsahne001

button head screw worked fine, torque relatively small so not really an issue but have filled the head with grease to try and stop cra pp from working it's way into the socket.

DrLex

1/4 turn of the cassette lock ring spanner has removed the mystery rattle.

MonkeyMonster

garmin on and running with cadence and hr monitor too... Quite cool and a few pb's on the normal routes too. Not sure why it's making me go faster

Initialised

MonkeyMonster wrote:

garmin on and running with cadence and hr monitor too... Quite cool and a few pb's on the normal routes too. Not sure why it's making me go faster

Knowledge is power!

Or your wheel size is set wrong.

oldbazza

Cables attached to new Planet x xls so 'just' have to set everything up now.Oh and shiny Trp spyres on as well.Still have to put discs and new tyres on wheels as well.

meanredspider

Given the Cube Reaction Race a once over. New brakes (Formula R1 very very cheap from Merlin) to replace the 5 year old corroded ones, new chain and new BB. Since I finally own this bike (CTW scheme - never again!) I'm now resurrecting it from the damage done of years of Highland winter commuting and setting up to be a proper MTB again as, on Saturday, I'm riding up a mountain.

itboffin

MonkeyMonster wrote:

garmin on and running with cadence and hr monitor too... Quite cool and a few pb's on the normal routes too. Not sure why it's making me go faster

that'll be the new kit effect

bartimaeus

Complete set of new bearings in my FS rear wheel (first time I've tried this - was not easy without a bearing puller and proper drift, but hopefully it's now done right. Also fitted a new cassette and chain, and a new front derailleur. Only one more annoying noise to go now... I hope.