Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

essex-commuter

Thanks for that, looks good.

One question...b screw. Whether it's fully screwed in our out makes no difference to the RD position. My chain is the correct length (just fits big/big). That's not necessarily an issue is it?

rower63

essex-commuter wrote:

Thanks for that, looks good.

One question...b screw. Whether it's fully screwed in our out makes no difference to the RD position. My chain is the correct length (just fits big/big). That's not necessarily an issue is it?

Off top of head can't remember, most recent work has been with Campag. It might be the adjustment screw that alters the pre-tension on the cage spring, whose purpose in turn is to adjust the clearance, with the chain on the smallest front and rear rings, between the chain on the jockey wheels and the chain on its return at the bottom, so that they don't quite touch - the chain is very nearly doubled up on itself in that configuration. I think they recommend using this screw to allow ~1cm clearance. But I might be talking about the wrong thing here.

If there's no touching of things that shouldn't touch when in small/small, then I guess don't change it.

ShandyH

rower63 wrote:

essex-commuter wrote:

Limit screws yes, done that. That wouldn't actually affect shifting issues mid cassette though, would it?

OK sounds like I need an alignment tool. Any recommendations for good price but no cheese content?

This is the one I got - works perfectly and much cheaper than others I found.
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/cycl ... wgodm00A7A

Hi mate, my indexing is a bit out too. Does this tool work on Carbon frames with metal hangers or is it just for metal framed bikes? Apologies for dumb question!

rower63

ShandyH wrote:

rower63 wrote:

essex-commuter wrote:

Limit screws yes, done that. That wouldn't actually affect shifting issues mid cassette though, would it?

OK sounds like I need an alignment tool. Any recommendations for good price but no cheese content?

This is the one I got - works perfectly and much cheaper than others I found.
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/cycl ... wgodm00A7A

Hi mate, my indexing is a bit out too. Does this tool work on Carbon frames with metal hangers or is it just for metal framed bikes? Apologies for dumb question!

Hi ShandyH fancy meeting you here! As it happens I re-hung my Storck over the weekend (no jokes please), which has an alloy hanger and (as you've seen and heard ) a Carbon frame. So frame material is not an issue.

itboffin

essex-commuter wrote:

Still trying to sort out my rear indexing problem, losing the will to live now.

New RD, new 105 shifters, new cable. Chain has 800 miles on it, cassette has about 2K. 99.9% sure cable is connected correctly at RD end.

I can index gears. Sometimes it won't jump up a gear, other times it won't come down. I usually end up clicking up two and then having to come down one.

I haven't check the alignment of the rear hanger. I've never dropped or crashed the bike, really can't see that this is the issue but what's left to do???

If its a shimano chain makes sure its on the right way around, yep sh!tmano is that sh!t, I had no idea myself when fitting up the scott, I consider myself to be somewhat of a fettling ninja and for the life of me I couldnt see what was wrong, until i found someone elses reference to directional sh!tmano chains.

at the least its worth a quick check

rower63

But don't make the first mistake I did which actually helped start me off on all this. I crashed on ice in RP a year ago, and scuffed the RD amongst other stuff. Gears immediately de-indexed, horrid. On finishing my journey to work, in my naivete first thing I did was bend the RD cage (not the hanger) to try to get it lined up again. Exactly wrong thing to do! Took a lot of torque to bend the cage but I did it, and effectively destroyed it in the process and it never worked properly again! RD itself is designed to be tough enough for a bit of abuse, and crucially the hanger is the bit supposed to do the bending. Because the RD alignment is so important, and actually changing the geometry of the RD itself no amount of hanger-bending was going to get it right again. That cost me a new Record RD ouch!

itboffin

ah the old bash it hard if it doesnt work method

rower63

itboffin wrote:

If its a shimano chain makes sure its on the right way around, yep sh!tmano is that sh!t, I had no idea myself when fitting up the scott, I consider myself to be somewhat of a fettling ninja and for the life of me I couldnt see what was wrong, until i found someone elses reference to directional sh!tmano chains.

very useful to know - will file that away

ShandyH

rower63 wrote:

Hi ShandyH fancy meeting you here! As it happens I re-hung my Storck over the weekend (no jokes please), which has an alloy hanger and (as you've seen and heard ) a Carbon frame. So frame material is not an issue.

I know, I don't get out much!

Thanks for this. I will be investing in a new RD alignment gizmo! Wanted to get some new bib tights from Rose anyway so will double up.

rower63

essex-commuter wrote:

Thanks for that, looks good.

One final thing (I promise!). The hanger itself may also have a retaining bolt or bolts to secure it in to the frame. When I re-did my Storck over the weekend, not only was the hanger out a bit, but the small hex bolts screwing it on to the frame were loose too, which would also have been causing problems.

veronese68

Another one going to be buying an alignment tool here. I really struggled with indexing on my 105 on the Kinesis, changed the cable at the weekend to XTR and it's a lot better, but not quite perfect. I need to check my chain is on the right way is one thing I've just learned as it's a Shimano, or I could just fit my KMC spare. and check the alignment. The b screw doesn't seem to make a lot of difference on mine either. Even with it screwed right out the mech seems to sit too far from the cassette in the higher gears.

essex-commuter

I'm using a SRAM chain at the moment, I'll check but I don't think they are directional.

The new cable set I bought is Clarks...maybe I've gone too cheap on the cable set? I have good (proper) cutters so the outer ends are all good.

magoo289

Replaced bearings and general cleaning and lube.

asprilla

Replaced bearings on a Hope hub. That was harder than it should have been.

meanredspider

Popped the Stages power meter on, lubed the chain

The thing that has surprised me is the weight of the crank arm. The only one I could source was 105 so I just compared the weight of the 105 Stages arm with the weight of my Ultegra 6700 arm that is on the foil

Ultegra - 197g
Stages 105 - 210g

michaelede

As the stages is supposed to add about 20g doesn't that mean the 105 is lighter than the ultegra?

Will be really interested to see how you get on with the stages, I can't make my mind up between a new stages or a second hand quarq. What finally swung it for you with the stages?

meanredspider

michaelede wrote:

As the stages is supposed to add about 20g doesn't that mean the 105 is lighter than the ultegra?

Will be really interested to see how you get on with the stages, I can't make my mind up between a new stages or a second hand quarq. What finally swung it for you with the stages?

It does look that way - I can only assume that Ultegra 6800 is lighter again. Certainly my much older (4 years??) 105 arm was 70-80g heavier than the 105 Stages.

What swung it? Firstly, availability - actually getting hold of a power meter is tough - I ordered 3 before I finally got one that delivered on the 4th try.

Secondly - flexibility. The Stages is easy to move between bikes (though it will mean converting the Volagi to Shimano) - I normally use a standard double on the Foil and a compact on the Volagi - spider-based units would mean swapping rings. The Vector would have also meant swapping the crank on the Volagi on top of the cost. I'm losing the balance aspect but I'm not sure that's important to me. I think I'll be able to spot that in drift between the Tacx and the Stages.

Doing a long ride tomorrow (probably a century) so I'll get to do a proper test.

Wheelspinner

Bought an old clunker off Fleabay to park permanently on the new turbo, as the single speed I intended using is too high geared.

Spent the afternoon cleaning it up, removing bird poo from wheels, and swapping the bars over to something I can reach comfortably. Surprisingly, the thing works pretty well, gears shift fine with virtually no fiddling required. Assuming it holds together, might give the rear hub a rebuild as it will take a fair bit of load on the turbo.

veronese68

Washed and lubed 3 bikes. Apologies for the rain tomorrow.

Initialised

Got back from 45 miles of rain, pain, darkness and a failed (to recharge correctly) Creebay light.

Making sure I got my 15 hours in: http://app.strava.com/challenges/cyclin ... fteen-2014

I went to clean the chain and noticed that the lower jockey wheel is totally shot:



Top is OK:



Any ideas what would cause this?

Top jockey, cranks and cassette are all OK and I'm about four chains in, slightly sluggish shifting on the back (2 up one down between some, probably needs indexed) but otherwise no worries.

rower63

Re-aligned the bladed spokes on my Powertap-equipped rear wheel.
Rebuilt by Sigma Sport with bladed spokes on Mavic rims after the original Powertap-supplied-and-built spokes started snapping quite soon after purchase from new. 5,000 miles on, most drive-side spokes had become twisted, some of them even flat-on to the direction of travel :shock: . Plus, it was out of true.
Judiciously-applied release-agent then oil in the spoke-nipple-recesses allowed the spokes to rotate again, and in the process brought the wheel back to true! Good results all round.
Also checked to make sure spoke-threads hadn't become seized.

gazman428

Had the cranks and bottom bracket out to get a ferel out of the main tube and stop a annoying crank from creaking

mudcovered

Initialised wrote:

Got back from 45 miles of rain, pain, darkness and a failed (to recharge correctly) Creebay light.

Any ideas what would cause this?

Top jockey, cranks and cassette are all OK and I'm about four chains in, slightly sluggish shifting on the back (2 up one down between some, probably needs indexed) but otherwise no worries.

I've had similar issues on my CX bike. My guess is that it relate to where the bottom pulley is relative to the spray and muck that gets thrown up from the ground in the gears you use the most often gets into the bearing causing it so seize. I guess that your bike (like mine) its the bottom wheel that is bearing the brunt of all that sprayed up crud.

Mike

paulintheforest

Fitted new Ultegra brakes to my road bike to replace the stock no name (Giant SCR2), put the sportier (for me) wheel back on from the standard one used on the turbo. Tried to fix play in the wheel but failed, will get a mate to take a look, although might just check out the bargains thread for a new set.

Looking forward to a ride out on it tomorrow, expect unforecast rain.

Kieran_Burns

Replaced yet another spoke last night, but I think I know what might be happening now (finally)

However while cleaning and lubing the chain I noticed it was VERY hard to spin the crank by hand and looking at the collars I used to convert the SRAM BB to a 105 I saw the drive side collar was not spinning.

I admit I had something of a rattle out the pram moment at this point and gave up, but this evening I'm stripping the crank down and hopefully freeing up the collar (which is meant to spin on the bearings as the left side happily does)

If not I'm going to either need to get a shop to replace the bearings or I buy that Parktools thing to do it myself.

PerformingMonkey

Allez currently getting an update. Shimano 2300 to 105 all round and Alex S480s to Shimano RS81 50mm.

CiB

Replaced all discs & pads on the car, as it needed doing. Now it's done it's parked at home as it was a good day to bike in today.

PerformingMonkey

PerformingMonkey wrote:

Allez currently getting an update. Shimano 2300 to 105 all round and Alex S480s to Shimano RS81 50mm.

All done now bar a different seat and new tube for rear wheel...

rjsterry

Stripped the Giant down for a good clean and was rather dismayed to find a crack in the weld where the LH fork blade meets the steerer. Further cleaning confirmed more than just split paint . Luckily Wallington Cycles had a 1" threaded steel fork, and more importantly, a little-used cutting guide allowing him to lop 2" off the steerer. So, just about up and running again; only problem is the dished washer on the front brake mounting bolt, which now needs to be flat.

asprilla

Changed the stem on the Soloist. Bit longer and white.