Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

veronese68

itboffin wrote:

Veronese68 wrote:

Think I may have saved my dead Garmin. The computer wouldn't see it at all, did a full reset and it would see it but couldn't read it. Formatted the thing last night and reloaded it and it seems to work, just uploaded the ride in to Strava.

Formatted! eh?

Don't ask me what it means, I just followed what somebody wrote on t'interweb. Had I known what I was doing I might have been more nervous. I did this.

essex-commuter

essex-commuter wrote:

Still trying to sort out my rear indexing problem, losing the will to live now.

New RD, new 105 shifters, new cable. Chain has 800 miles on it, cassette has about 2K. 99.9% sure cable is connected correctly at RD end.

I can index gears. Sometimes it won't jump up a gear, other times it won't come down. I usually end up clicking up two and then having to come down one.

I haven't check the alignment of the rear hanger. I've never dropped or crashed the bike, really can't see that this is the issue but what's left to do???

An update.

Bought a hanger alignment tool, hanger was straight. Gave up and took the bike into my LBS, the mechanic here is very good.

He tried to index it, couldn't. He checked the RD alignment, it was straight, he checked the cable it was OK.

All he could say was there is either an issue with the RD (relatively new) or the 105 shifter (relatively new).

It seems I have no option other than to buy a new RD and try it, and /or buy a new 10 speed shifter and try it.

Damn bike.

Kieran_Burns

essex-commuter wrote:

essex-commuter wrote:

Still trying to sort out my rear indexing problem, losing the will to live now.

New RD, new 105 shifters, new cable. Chain has 800 miles on it, cassette has about 2K. 99.9% sure cable is connected correctly at RD end.

I can index gears. Sometimes it won't jump up a gear, other times it won't come down. I usually end up clicking up two and then having to come down one.

I haven't check the alignment of the rear hanger. I've never dropped or crashed the bike, really can't see that this is the issue but what's left to do???

An update.

Bought a hanger alignment tool, hanger was straight. Gave up and took the bike into my LBS, the mechanic here is very good.

He tried to index it, couldn't. He checked the RD alignment, it was straight, he checked the cable it was OK.

All he could say was there is either an issue with the RD (relatively new) or the 105 shifter (relatively new).

It seems I have no option other than to buy a new RD and try it, and /or buy a new 10 speed shifter and try it.

Damn bike.

Spacer? (on the inside of the cassette, not one of the ones between the cogs unless you fitted one of them smaller ones back to front )

essex-commuter

Kieran_Burns wrote:

essex-commuter wrote:

essex-commuter wrote:

Still trying to sort out my rear indexing problem, losing the will to live now.

New RD, new 105 shifters, new cable. Chain has 800 miles on it, cassette has about 2K. 99.9% sure cable is connected correctly at RD end.

I can index gears. Sometimes it won't jump up a gear, other times it won't come down. I usually end up clicking up two and then having to come down one.

I haven't check the alignment of the rear hanger. I've never dropped or crashed the bike, really can't see that this is the issue but what's left to do???

An update.

Bought a hanger alignment tool, hanger was straight. Gave up and took the bike into my LBS, the mechanic here is very good.

He tried to index it, couldn't. He checked the RD alignment, it was straight, he checked the cable it was OK.

All he could say was there is either an issue with the RD (relatively new) or the 105 shifter (relatively new).

It seems I have no option other than to buy a new RD and try it, and /or buy a new 10 speed shifter and try it.

Damn bike.

Spacer? (on the inside of the cassette, not one of the ones between the cogs unless you fitted one of them smaller ones back to front )

I always keep the cogs and spacers in order when I take them off. II thought the spacers were all the same width on Shimano, no? Will have to check re the spacer on the inside (you mean it's fitted on before the first cog?). 'If' this was missed wouldn't it just mean the gears would need to be re-indexed...should still work shouldn't it?

Kieran_Burns

essex-commuter wrote:

I always keep the cogs and spacers in order when I take them off. II thought the spacers were all the same width on Shimano, no? Will have to check re the spacer on the inside (you mean it's fitted on before the first cog?). 'If' this was missed wouldn't it just mean the gears would need to be re-indexed...should still work shouldn't it?

There's one that goes on to the hub before the entire cassette. I was just wondering if this was missing it might cause a mis-alignment or something

essex-commuter

Kieran_Burns wrote:

essex-commuter wrote:

I always keep the cogs and spacers in order when I take them off. II thought the spacers were all the same width on Shimano, no? Will have to check re the spacer on the inside (you mean it's fitted on before the first cog?). 'If' this was missed wouldn't it just mean the gears would need to be re-indexed...should still work shouldn't it?

There's one that goes on to the hub before the entire cassette. I was just wondering if this was missing it might cause a mis-alignment or something

Just done a quick Google and the only issue it could cause is the cassette moving about on the freehub...which could/would cause indexing problems. pretty sure it's fitted but will check tonight.

Ta.

asprilla

Having taken six months to get the 105 gruppo on the Soloist shifting ok (it will shift mainly when I want but there are some 2up1downs required occasionally) I've come to the conclusion that the latest iteration if 105 is just shit.

I've had The Bike Fixer and Bicycle in Richmond look at it so far.

rubertoe

I just fitted a new chain and a cassette (Tiagra style) to the kaff and re-indexed the gears. Tiagra 10 spd is just re-hashed 105 5600 IMO and it shifts superbly.

Maybe it is an issue with the under tape routing?

rower63

essex-commuter wrote:

essex-commuter wrote:

Still trying to sort out my rear indexing problem, losing the will to live now.

New RD, new 105 shifters, new cable. Chain has 800 miles on it, cassette has about 2K. 99.9% sure cable is connected correctly at RD end.

I can index gears. Sometimes it won't jump up a gear, other times it won't come down. I usually end up clicking up two and then having to come down one.

I haven't check the alignment of the rear hanger. I've never dropped or crashed the bike, really can't see that this is the issue but what's left to do???

An update.

Bought a hanger alignment tool, hanger was straight. Gave up and took the bike into my LBS, the mechanic here is very good.

He tried to index it, couldn't. He checked the RD alignment, it was straight, he checked the cable it was OK.

All he could say was there is either an issue with the RD (relatively new) or the 105 shifter (relatively new).

It seems I have no option other than to buy a new RD and try it, and /or buy a new 10 speed shifter and try it.

Damn bike.

As I've discovered myself, if the RD itself has somehow become bent, no amount of fettle-ship will get it right, and it seems you've exhausted every other alternative

Sharkyssurfers

it could be the rear frame that might be slightly bent?

In other news, just replaced my slow puncturing tube, thought it was a bit soft this morning so pumped it up and it managed to last over 25 miles commuting, but thought i had best change it for the commute home.

mudcovered

Asprilla wrote:

Having taken six months to get the 105 gruppo on the Soloist shifting ok (it will shift mainly when I want but there are some 2up1downs required occasionally) I've come to the conclusion that the latest iteration if 105 is just shoot.

I've had The Bike Fixer and Bicycle in Richmond look at it so far.

This the 5700 series stuff? Paradoxically I found that it shifted better than the 5600 it replaced on my bike. There is a note in the 5700 STI installation guide that warns that only teflon coated cables should be used or you get shifting issues. If you are using the cables that came with it (assuming it came like mine) it should work.

Only time I've ever had bad shifts with 5700 are when my chain was lacking in lubrication.

asprilla

mudcovered wrote:

Asprilla wrote:

Having taken six months to get the 105 gruppo on the Soloist shifting ok (it will shift mainly when I want but there are some 2up1downs required occasionally) I've come to the conclusion that the latest iteration if 105 is just shoot.

I've had The Bike Fixer and Bicycle in Richmond look at it so far.

This the 5700 series stuff? Paradoxically I found that it shifted better than the 5600 it replaced on my bike. There is a note in the 5700 STI installation guide that warns that only teflon coated cables should be used or you get shifting issues. If you are using the cables that came with it (assuming it came like mine) it should work.

Only time I've ever had bad shifts with 5700 are when my chain was lacking in lubrication.

It's 5700 and using the cables that came with the shifters and the chain is cleaned and lubed.

It's never been right despite my own attempts and those of professionals.

Never have these issues with 6600, 5600 or my Force / Apex set-ups.

Frustrating.

veronese68

Veronese68 wrote:

itboffin wrote:

Veronese68 wrote:

Think I may have saved my dead Garmin. The computer wouldn't see it at all, did a full reset and it would see it but couldn't read it. Formatted the thing last night and reloaded it and it seems to work, just uploaded the ride in to Strava.

Formatted! eh?

Don't ask me what it means, I just followed what somebody wrote on t'interweb. Had I known what I was doing I might have been more nervous. I did this.

It worked! :shock:
Plugged it into my PC and it uploaded to Strava and Garmin Connect without any issues.

london-red

Replaced ANOTHER bloody pulley wheel on the rear mech, proper degrease of the chain and a quick clean.

30 minutes. Bosh.

(Apologies for tomorrow's rain.)

mudcovered

Asprilla wrote:

It's 5700 and using the cables that came with the shifters and the chain is cleaned and lubed.

It's never been right despite my own attempts and those of professionals.

Never have these issues with 6600, 5600 or my Force / Apex set-ups.

Frustrating.

I can sympathise with that. My 5600 setup never worked entirely right before I replaced it either.

I wish I had more to suggest.

Mike

Pufftmw

Ghost back after new head bearings - £35 inc parts/labour. Good vfm for nearly 4yo and 6500 mile bike.

Steers better...

6wheels

Just done a quick Google and the only issue it could cause is the cassette moving about on the freehub...which could/would cause indexing problems. pretty sure it's fitted but will check tonight.

You could try asking here whether they found a solution for a similar problem...


viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=12957989&hilit=one+for+mechanics

asprilla

Rebuilding the hybrid for family trips along the Thames path. It's going to be an 8 speed.
Just fitted new bb, cranks, pedals, rear mech, shifter and cantis. Also replaced the bearings in the headset.

There is something weird about the rear spacing. I think it's the hub is too wide for the frame.

redvee

After having a couple of close calls with the top tube and my anatomy I stripped the Shimano MX30 down to it's 99 parts :shock:, admittedly 92 of those are ball bearings, and gave all the parts a soak in degreaser overnight then reassembled before commuting to work on it at dinnertime.

jonnyboy77

Updated the brakes on my commuter bike this weekend. The bike was originally kitted out with some second hand Avid Juicy 3 hydraulic disc brakes, they worked fine and were cheap but eventually the front caliper siezed up. I did a quick fix (about 6 months ago!) and stole the Shimano setup from my older mountain bike, and all was good. As the weather is improving I wanted to recall the old MTB into kids trailer/bike seat duty and needed brakes.

Ribble had a good deal on some Shimano M615 brakes so I ordered those and fitted them to the commuter bike along with an XT 180mm rotor .... the result is seriously impressive braking. Not throw you over the handlebars (although I'm sure it could), but great bite, feel and progressive stopping - possibly on a par with the XT setup on my FS bike.

- Jon

Initialised

Sliced the bead from my (sadly destroyed by one too many off road stints and a few thousand miles) 23mm Espoir Elite.
This is doing four things inside a 28mm Espoir Sport.

1: Extra layer of PF tooth resistance
2: I can use a 25mm max tube in a 28mm tyre without worrying about over stretching it
3: Meaning I can ride the damn thing before my Vredsteins turn up.
4: Meaning that even though on the outside my tyres will be mismatched and therefore anti-V, on the inside they'll still match and that's where it counts!

Wheelspinner

Started assembly of new bike. Won't be quick...
Step 1: made a headset press from 2 blocks of wood, some threaded rod and nuts and washers.
Step 2: fitted zero stack press-fit headset.
Step 3: refreshments
Step 4: fashioned a crown race setting tool from piece of plastic pipe.
Step 5: fitted crown race to carbon fork after *much* careful hammering with light mallet. Sweated a lot. Yuck. More refreshments.
Step 6: installed fork in frame to test alignment. Perfect. 8)
Step 7: sat on workbench stool and admired handiwork over a Talisker.

MonkeyMonster

had to re-insert and tighten the expanding steerer then put stem and top cap back on. Back to evans for something to permanently fix the stem creep i've always been getting since day one. Carbon forks eh... who wants em.

sloppyschleckonds

Just de-stickered my carbon wheels.

I used a hairdryer

EKE_38BPM

The Kaff had developed an annoying click/clunk when the DS crank was going over the top, so pedals off, crank off, BB removed, seat post clamp off, seat post out, saddle clamp dismantled. Everything cleaned, greased reassembled and replaced.

No idea what the problem was, but its fixed now.

When I had the bike on the workstand, I noticed how badly buckled the rear wheel was. I hadn't noticed any problem due to disc brakes (hallowed by thy name).
I got busy with the spoke key so its straighter now.

jds_1981

Replaced the battery in my power meter. Still avoiding the full strip down and rebuild required on my Allez.

redvee

EKE_38BPM wrote:

I noticed how badly buckled the rear wheel was. I hadn't noticed any problem due to disc brakes (hallowed by thy name).

My rear wheel was the same, disc brakes and full guards hides a lot of sins. The front was OK but both wheels went down to LBS for a retension after 200 miles.

menthel

Finally fitted the new crank bolt thingy so could get back on the 00. Replaced the cheese based shimano one with a metal jobbie that requires a 10mm allen key rather than the usual shim specific tool. All seems ok on the first ride out. And no creaking/clicking!

asprilla

Built up the bike for the Mrs.

Now I'm looking to see if I can get Mrs A and the Mighty Pickle on bikeability.

Anonymous

Moved my saddle forwards 5mm.