Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

itboffin

False alert it seems thanks to the trapped nerve in my left arm I can't tell the difference between a soft or hard tyre if I use my left hand.

The possible applications for these new skill are endless :?

roger_merriman

Rack for the old MTB so it can have paniers etc. should make a tough old workhorse

Initialised

Clean,
Lube,
Ride,
Repeat,

EKE_38BPM

I did my first bit of fettling on my Kaffenback.
The rear gears needed a little bit of adjustment because of cable stretch. I played around with the barrel adjuster then decided to start again from scratch. Perfect now.
The BB7s also needed fettling as the levers were getting a bit long. The other day a mate adjusted the rear, which only highlighted how bad the front was. I fired up Youtube (thanks Volagi) and fettled the front perfectly. I then thought that I could improve on perfection, whilst also forgetting most of what I just did to the front brake, and cocked up my rear brake. I'll have another go at it in a minute.

fat_tail

New wheels - handbuilts from Ugo Santalucia. Ultegra 6800 hubs, H Plus Son Archetype rims. They look the biz. New Shima Ultegra cassette and chain. Installed new Vredestein Fortezza tyres to replace the Vittoria Rubinos. Replaced rear brake cable and housing and the bar tape.

asprilla

Tonight's fettling in the kitchen;

Cleaned the drive trains on the Burls, Singular and Peugeot. Changed the wheels and seatpost on the Singular and tyres on the Burls.

Had another go at indexing the Soloist. Shimano sucks ass.

davis

Started a now very rare ride in on Friday. Had gone about 2 miles when I got a puncture to the back tyre. Hopped off to discover I had no levers with me... so a very nice ride in became a 2 mile walk back.... Grrrr.

Decided to fix the flat Friday night, and ended up:

Replacing bottom bracket
Swapped chain over
Cleaned/degreased and re-lubed the entire drive train.
Cleaned everything (derailleurs and brakes off)
Went mad with a pack of baby wipes on the wheels
Cleaned, re-greased and refitted headset
Replaced all cables (Do Ultegra cables come with a weird lacquer on them that makes it hard to clamp?)
Reindex gears
Replaced tyres.
Fixed the flat

ETA: Just remembered that the Jagwire original cables lasted 4 years without really doing anything to them.

veronese68

Had a long fettling session yesterday. replaced a spoke in the rear of an old MTB wheelset I'd been given and regreased and adjusted the hubs, then fitted them to my Marin. Gave my Pinnacle a bit of love and attention by way of general check over and lube. Then replaced the gear cabel to the rear mech of the Kinesis with a Shimano XTR job. What is the difference between road and MTB gear cables. The Shimano inners are listed for both so they are the same. The outers are the same size, as are the inners. The only difference seemed to be that one of the inners was shorter than the other and the outer came as a single 3m length that you can cut to the size you want. The main advantage was much better sealing on the end caps. Hopefully this will have solved my indexing woes and the muck will stay out of the cables.

ic.

davis wrote:

ETA: Just remembered that the Jagwire original cables lasted 4 years without really doing anything to them.

That's good to hear, having just replaced my worn out cables with a new set of Jagwires this weekend. The difference is amazing, shifts are feather light again, just like new!

cyclingprop

davis wrote:

Replaced all cables (Do Ultegra cables come with a weird lacquer on them that makes it hard to clamp?)

Did you buy PTFE coated cables by any chance?

bobbygloss

Washed the MTB at the weekend. Not much of a fettle in itself, but I found a broken spoke on the rear.
While the cassette and disc were off, thought I may aswell check the hub condition. Disc side, still full of red grease. Drive side, dry, black and lumpy. The cup is pitted, and the cone has a big scoop carved in it. Oops.
As a short term measure, I've re-built it with an old spare cone, but it's new wheel time. I also managed to jam the cone spanner between cone and spacer, and in the process of freeing it, damaged the splines for the disc mount.
Jockey wheels were trashed too, so I've put some less knackered ones on, and new brake pads.

rower63

Talius wrote:

just changed all the brake pads. ended up dismantling and cleaning the front brake entirely as was more than a little cruddy. ho hum, my new flat has no way of running a hose and cleaning from a bucket just doesnt get everything. need to find a garage with a spray hose.

A little belated but nonetheless ... garden centre hand-held plant sprayer is what I use

mudcovered

cyclingprop wrote:

davis wrote:

Replaced all cables (Do Ultegra cables come with a weird lacquer on them that makes it hard to clamp?)

Did you buy PTFE coated cables by any chance?

I'd guess so since Shimano recommend that for all their road shifters which do under tape routing for the shift cables.
Since Ultegra has been like that for a few years now it would make sense for Ultegra branded cables to be PTFE coated.

Mike

Initialised

Fitted a Mucky Nutz Bender Fender Lite to the chainstays on my MTB, hopefully no more filthy derailer next time it gets muddy and I get the itch to go riding in it.

Kieran_Burns

Fitted yet another replacement spoke, and cleaned the cassette again while I was at it. For some reason the wheel would not fit true again so I adjusted the BB7 rear brakes - something that is VERY easy (once you remember the trick) and lubed the chain to soak until Friday when I'm back on the bike.

Oh and finally sorted the indexing post cable stretch. THAT is a satisfying job to do. (I turned the barrel adjuster 2 notches, but they were *important* notches)

veronese68

Kieran_Burns wrote:

Fitted yet another replacement spoke, and cleaned the cassette again while I was at it. For some reason the wheel would not fit true again so I adjusted the BB7 rear brakes - something that is VERY easy (once you remember the trick) and lubed the chain to soak until Friday when I'm back on the bike.

Oh and finally sorted the indexing post cable stretch. THAT is a satisfying job to do. (I turned the barrel adjuster 2 notches, but they were *important* notches)

Exactly. I don't understand people that complain about cable discs needing fettling, it takes no time at all.

itboffin

i just went and picked up my commuter which has been at the station since the 18th and boy what a mess, considering it had been cleaned just before that last commute, it was filthy, that's riding through flooded country lanes for you, I gave it a quick scrub down and noticed that both the front and rear almost new conti GP are starting to show sidewall material :shock:

WTF is that about?

rjsterry

itboffin wrote:

i just went and picked up my commuter which has been at the station since the 18th and boy what a mess, considering it had been cleaned just before that last commute, it was filthy, that's riding through flooded country lanes for you, I gave it a quick scrub down and noticed that both the front and rear almost new conti GP are starting to show sidewall material :shock:

WTF is that about?

Think you've answered your own question.

davis

cyclingprop wrote:

davis wrote:

Replaced all cables (Do Ultegra cables come with a weird lacquer on them that makes it hard to clamp?)

Did you buy PTFE coated cables by any chance?

Not deliberately. They were in a complete Ultegra groupset which I have yet to hang on the Scott CR1....

menthel

Just stuck the cheese grade came with bike contis back on my wheels in an attempt to get the bike home tonight. I did it at my desk but people have stopped giving me funny looks as they spend so much time getting repaired up here.

essex-commuter

Still trying to sort out my rear indexing problem, losing the will to live now.

New RD, new 105 shifters, new cable. Chain has 800 miles on it, cassette has about 2K. 99.9% sure cable is connected correctly at RD end.

I can index gears. Sometimes it won't jump up a gear, other times it won't come down. I usually end up clicking up two and then having to come down one.

I haven't check the alignment of the rear hanger. I've never dropped or crashed the bike, really can't see that this is the issue but what's left to do???

menthel

essex-commuter wrote:

Still trying to sort out my rear indexing problem, losing the will to live now.

New RD, new 105 shifters, new cable. Chain has 800 miles on it, cassette has about 2K. 99.9% sure cable is connected correctly at RD end.

I can index gears. Sometimes it won't jump up a gear, other times it won't come down. I usually end up clicking up two and then having to come down one.

I haven't check the alignment of the rear hanger. I've never dropped or crashed the bike, really can't see that this is the issue but what's left to do???

Sometimes its just best to admit defeat and take it to the LBS. When you get into the can't see the wood for the trees mindset a fresh pair of eyes often fixes something that may well be rather simple!

rower63

essex-commuter wrote:

Still trying to sort out my rear indexing problem, losing the will to live now.

New RD, new 105 shifters, new cable. Chain has 800 miles on it, cassette has about 2K. 99.9% sure cable is connected correctly at RD end.

I can index gears. Sometimes it won't jump up a gear, other times it won't come down. I usually end up clicking up two and then having to come down one.

I haven't check the alignment of the rear hanger. I've never dropped or crashed the bike, really can't see that this is the issue but what's left to do???

The only thing you haven't done is IMHO the most crucial element: checking the rear derailleur hanger alignment. Rear shifting is extremely sensitive to it. I've learned this the hard way going through all the steps you have.
Get a RD-hanger alignment tool, not too expensive, basically a threaded bolt with a long exactly 90-degree rotating arm. Unscrew the RD (leave it hanging on chain), insert the rear wheel, screw the alignment tool into the RD thread-hole, and use the lateral distance of the arm's end from the rear wheel rim to check where it's out of alignment, and bend it true accordingly using the long arm of the tool itself. RD hanger is designed to be adjusted this way.
You may now have to re-index from scratch again, but it should be good.
Now, if it still doesn't work, you may top yourself .

edit: just because it's new doesn't mean RD alignment is right. They're very soft and can easily get bent in transit, and I've since come across even new frames with mis-aligned hangers. Good luck.

UndercoverElephant

Things to check:

The hanger alignment.
Do the jockey wheels make a vertical line with the cog they're attempting to align to?
Are the jockey wheels in the right way round?
How many cogs are actually on the cassette?

essex-commuter

So a hanger can get bent if I have never dropped or stacked the bike? It's not a busy bike shed either so nobody bashes up against it.

Jocks are def correct rotation, that's one thing I did check (one is directional I think, the other can go either way.

How many cogs on the cassette? You mean have I left one off when cleaning it??

davis

essex-commuter wrote:

Still trying to sort out my rear indexing problem, losing the will to live now.

New RD, new 105 shifters, new cable. Chain has 800 miles on it, cassette has about 2K. 99.9% sure cable is connected correctly at RD end.

I can index gears. Sometimes it won't jump up a gear, other times it won't come down. I usually end up clicking up two and then having to come down one.

I haven't check the alignment of the rear hanger. I've never dropped or crashed the bike, really can't see that this is the issue but what's left to do???

You did start with the limit screws, didn't you?

rower63

essex-commuter wrote:

So a hanger can get bent if I have never dropped or stacked the bike? It's not a busy bike shed either so nobody bashes up against it.

Jocks are def correct rotation, that's one thing I did check (one is directional I think, the other can go either way.

How many cogs on the cassette? You mean have I left one off when cleaning it??

Yes, just because it's new doesn't mean RD alignment is right. They're very soft and can easily get bent in transit: I've since come across even new frames with mis-aligned hangers. Be gentle with the bending though, better to get there in two little pulls in same direction rather than overdoing one big one then bending back!
I prefer to do it myself as I've witnessed Sigma Sport of all people doing mine (where I first saw the tool in action in fact) being far too brutal and uncaring, and getting it wrong in the process. Had to re-do their work, but it was lovely being able to shift with confidence again.

essex-commuter

Limit screws yes, done that. That wouldn't actually affect shifting issues mid cassette though, would it?

OK sounds like I need an alignment tool. Any recommendations for good price but no cheese content?

davis

essex-commuter wrote:

Limit screws yes, done that. That wouldn't actually affect shifting issues mid cassette though, would it?

OK sounds like I need an alignment tool. Any recommendations for good price but no cheese content?

Apparently you can use a spare rear wheel with no cassette. They (allegedly) screw into the bottom of the hanger, and then you "just" check the two wheels are parallel.

Have never tried it, mind.

rower63

essex-commuter wrote:

Limit screws yes, done that. That wouldn't actually affect shifting issues mid cassette though, would it?

OK sounds like I need an alignment tool. Any recommendations for good price but no cheese content?

This is the one I got - works perfectly and much cheaper than others I found.
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/cycl ... wgodm00A7A